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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Stumped and Towed 👎...

Just had a beautiful 6 hour road trip with her last week.. Yesterday, cranks fine but no start... Thought it was that time of the year (warranty out my AC Delco cap and rotor once again). Put new delco cap/rotor/coil on.. still no start. Fuel pressure 63 psi. Swapped crank sensor, no start. Had it towed home.

Today she started right up but was running a little rough. Had a new performance billet distributor here on hand that I’ve been meaning to install so I dropped her in. Started right up, running good. Shut her down and started her three times all good.

Fourth start cranking and no start!! Cranks fine, will not fire. Fuel pressure good,spark strong. installed new delco cap rotor distributor ICM and crank sensor.. Won’t start in neutral either! When hooked up to my computer it’s throwing P1351 code (ignition control circuit open or ICC voltage high)... strange noise when switching ignition from key on to key off (sounds like a sick duck quacking).. can upload a quick video if I figure out how to on here.
 

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Common Sense + Critical Thinking
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Check power/ground/connector/wiring for ICM.

You should not be having to replace ignition caps regularly, check for Pancake Distributor Disease and also check that your PCV system is functioning.

To post a video, upload a video to youtube or any other supported site, then choose Insert>Media when you are creating your post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Check power/ground/connector/wiring for ICM.

You should not be having to replace ignition caps regularly, check for Pancake Distributor Disease and also check that your PCV system is functioning.

To post a video, upload a video to youtube or any other supported site, then choose Insert>Media when you are creating your post.
Will thank you so much for your time and help. I will be checking this wiring tomorrow and report back. I definitely think I have a wiring issue with how these caps and rotors have been going since I’ve had the van.
 

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whats the story with the billet distributor sounds like bling bling parts for a show car? is there something wrong the with the stock distributors? oilite bushings or something wear out after so many miles?
 

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whats the story with the billet distributor sounds like bling bling parts for a show car? is there something wrong the with the stock distributors? oilite bushings or something wear out after so many miles?
They prematurely wear out, usually the drive gear, and can strip the screws out of it or the ears crack. It's just nice to have something solid in there instead of plastic, can at least be fixed if you strip out a screw or whatever. Well worth it IMO as long as you get a decent one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Check power/ground/connector/wiring for ICM.

You should not be having to replace ignition caps regularly, check for Pancake Distributor Disease and also check that your PCV system is functioning.

To post a video, upload a video to youtube or any other supported site, then choose Insert>Media when you are creating your post.
So upon inspecting grounds I have found a peculiar condition. Every electrical connector (distributor ICM coil) has continuity with negative battery post when key off. When key on, all negative connections on wiring harnesses and even main ground wire coming off negative battery terminal mounted to body in front of battery battery loses its ground continuity.

Spark plug wires are grounding little arcs to entry piece of metal around them when trying to start.

any ideas?!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Check power/ground/connector/wiring for ICM.

You should not be having to replace ignition caps regularly, check for Pancake Distributor Disease and also check that your PCV system is functioning.

To post a video, upload a video to youtube or any other supported site, then choose Insert>Media when you are creating your post.
Check power/ground/connector/wiring for ICM.

You should not be having to replace ignition caps regularly, check for Pancake Distributor Disease and also check that your PCV system is functioning.

To post a video, upload a video to youtube or any other supported site, then choose Insert>Media when you are creating your post.
Astro van grounding issue

ground issue
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Replaced ECU PCU today and still crank no start..

have replaced

coil
distributor
Cap rotor
ICM
Crank sensor
PCU ECU

did notice Fuel gauge is acting funny when turning to key on and when cranking.. fuel pressure reads 63psi and slowly drops but dropping though my fuel pressure gauge connection

Fuel gauge astro
 

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Every electrical connector (distributor ICM coil) has continuity with negative battery post when key off.
You can't test continuity when the circuit is powered. Really what you should be testing is voltage drop while the circuit is powered.


Spark plug wires are grounding little arcs to entry piece of metal around them when trying to start.
DING DING DING
We have a winner. That should not be happening AT ALL. It is time to replace your spark plug wires and most likely your plugs while you are in there, one at a time so you don't get them mixed up. I would also make sure to follow the factory routing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Swapped out plugs and wires today and I am still seeing a few little arcs in the same spots anywhere close to any metal. Van still will not start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Plugs didn’t look that bad (did them at 100k now at 150k). Replaced with ac delco original plugs both times and denso wires. Very faint Small little arcs only visible in a few spots where metal is near some of the wires.

Feel like I may have a earth ground or motor ground issue but cannot find any more. Cleaned grounds in front of battery icu ground on thermostat and any others I was able to locate. Battery is new with freshly cleaned connections.

If I leave it sit for a few days it started first crank left it idle for 10 minutes shut it down and will not restart. Hasn’t restarted after letting sit a day or two since
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Will I would pay you for your time to help me diagnose this, I have lost multiple days of work this week over this issue and cannot come up with a solution for it
 

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Actually that's not a bad idea.
Paypal has 'friends and family' where you just shoot money using the email address for their account.
Could be solved faster on the phone compared to misunderstood typed words and jargon.
Like: 'I'm sending you $10 bucks just to prove I'm not a scammer/spammer - call me please.'
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Here at the van now... after sitting for the night van sounded like it was about to start so I floored the pedal and it started. Has been idling for 10 minutes, idle seems sort of rough- RPM is hovering 650-700 at idle.

Shut it down and only able to restart by flooring the gas pedal but does stay idling rough. Just threw a P0300 random misfire code

Is restarting every time ONLY with gas pedal floored but does idle rough
 

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Ok, so it sounds like you might have a leaking regulator. BTW what year is your van(would be good to include it in your signature)? You did say your fuel pressure was 63, is that with the key on/engine off? What is it 1min and 10min after turning off?

When you floor the accelerator pedal when starting, it goes into 'clear flood mode', where it doesn't inject any fuel.

Will I would pay you for your time to help me diagnose this
No money needed. We do have a chat room set up for real time communication. Chat room alternative w/ new forum software
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Sorry will- I’ve had an account on here for a long time just forgot my info to login- 1997 AWD.


I know how much Will helps this forum, gotta support those who save use countless hours. Happy to send you some reimbursement for your time!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Also have had code P0340 thrown twice since starting today camshaft position sensor code
 
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