OK. I did my own Wheel Align... :rockon:
Here's what I did. Drawing from a lot of suggestions from a lot of people, including one mystery
member that only communicates via PM... :naughty:
To square up the rear wheels, I measured from the rear bolt of the front subframe
to the front edge of the seaf spring perch. That measurement from both sides was
within 1/16 inch. I was a littls suprized, expecting it to be more. Somewhere I read
specs are within 1/8 inch so I left that alone.
To check the wheels side to side, I meaured from the back side of the brake plate
to the edge of the leaf, AND from the same brake plate to the edge of the perch.
Both sides were exact, or as close as I could measure (about 1/32) to the perch.
To the springs there's a difference of about 3/32. Again, within 1/8 inch so I
left that alone as well.
Sorry, no pics of that portion.
Here's how I set the toe in for the front.
Tire pressure equal all four at 35 psi.
I centered the van as best as I could in my sloping, crowned driveway. Then drove forward
and allowed it to roll backwards in neutral while I held the steering wheel centered. Hopefully
this would center the wheels (another suggestion from right here as ASDC).
I tied a piece of 20ga electrical wire between two jack stands, just a little longer than my wheel base.
I did this for each side, I'll only show one side in the pics. Set the jack stands and move the wire up or down
till it crosses the center of each wheel. The REAR jack stand can go "around the corner" of the rear tire,
sort of like the thumbtack solution maher uses.
With the wire touching the rear edge of the REAR tire, I moved
the front wire in, towards the front tire, till the wire touched the
REAR tire in two places, and the FRONT tire at it's rear. If I had toe in,
this should leave a gap at the front between the wire and the edge of the tire.
One side was at about zero, no toe in or toe out. The other was about 1/4 inch toe in.
Spec is 3/32" +/- 1/16". I assume that the amount of toe in means "3/32 TOTAL" ie
one side plus the other side = 3/32 total. So I adjusted the tie rod connectors a half turn
at a time and then drove the van forward and let it roll back again in neutral, then checked.
It amazed me how little the tie rod adjuster needed to turn to make a BIG difference. I did
the whole process maybe five or six times, eventually moving the adjuster in 1/4 turn increments.
Eventually I ended up with 3/64 on each side or 3/32 total toe in.
Like I typically do, I labeled the nuts and bolts for wrench size. And in this case,
I labeled which way to turn the adjusters to move the tie rod ends in or out.
This pic is taken right side up, not the way I see it as I'm on my back, but the way
you'd see it if you had the van up on a rack.
Here's the driveway mechanic's view.
Whole thing took maybe an hour and a half, including a lot of laying under there and thinking
"how should I do this?"
Afterwords, I drove to the Scottsdale Whole Foods (nobody goes there, too expensive, so the parking lot is empty)
and drove down the flattest parts I could find to see if the van wanted to pull left or right. It didn't. Seemed to
make things nice and smooth and I noticed a reduced tendency to pull to the left that was present before I
did all this.