[Astroecho]

My door handle finally broke...looks original, so 17 years use is not bad. This site is pretty amazing to get info from, and there has been a few really good threads on door handle replacement. I don't think I'm adding much new to what is already on offer on the site, but hopefully can show a complete replacement with some rough measurements to possibly help someone else. It's also nice to give back to the forum community.

I decided to do the drilling method after spending a few hours at a scrapyard (junkyard) dissecting donor vans. Thought it would be easier then taking the plastic trim off and possibly have something else break.

Tools used:
1) 1/4 ratchet + extension + universal joint + 10mm socket
2) Long flat blade screwdriver
3) Long needle nose + long bent nose pliers
4) 10 mm long spanner (wrench)
5) Torch (flashlight)
6) Coloured pen
7) Tape measure
8) Masking tape
9) 1" spade drill bit

A) Mark and drill a hole roughly level with the top bolt on the door handle. I used a 1" wood spade bit, not ideal but only $6.50, so a cheap buy. 1" fits the plastic cap perfectly. I missed the latch by 1/8" so worked out well.

B) I used a 10mm spanner (wrench) to undo the top nut. A bit of careful work and the bolt can be lifted out the hole.

C) Use the screwdriver to pop out the plastic cap and undo the bottom nut using the 1/4" ratchet accessed through the bottom (factory made hole). Then the handle can be removed from the door and the rod separated from the handle using the screwdriver.

D) Use the masking tape to cover the paintwork. Mine was already scratched from when the handle snapped off, but I didn't want to make it any worse.

E) I bought replacement driver and passenger handles from the scrapyard for $6 each, just in case. The passenger (left) is a GM part, the driver's (right) has Taiwan stamped on it and is noticeable lesser quality and doesn't open as smoothly. I will probably replace this when I next visit the scrapyard.

F) Insert the new handle from the front and I found it easier to connect the rod once the handle was in place. I used the pliers to line it up and the screwdriver to "snap" it into place.

G) The nuts can now be fitted using the same technique for each nut, top and bottom. A plastic cap from the scrapyard can be inserted into the hole and it looks like a factory finish.

H) Some rough measurements on where the top hole is. This was level with the top bolt and missed the door latch.

It took me a while as even with the hole, it is a fiddly job. I did several runs to the tool shop to get tools etc but hopefully now I will be quicker if I have to do it again.

Thanks for such a great forum.

Not sure why some pictures are sideways. You get the idea though.

 

[AstroWill]

Nice pictures and write-up. I do feel that drilling an extra hole is a bit overkill, but definitely would make it easier to get your nut off. Keep everything nicely lubed up and you shouldn't have to replace them again.

 

[RECox286]

In the words of one who knows...Youse did good !

Uncle Bob

 

[Astroecho]

Thanks folks.

There are positive and negatives for each method (trim vs hole). I took the trim panel off 3 donor vans at the scrap yard (6 trims total to get 2 good handles) and for me personally, removing the trim, disconnecting the interior handle rod, the lock rod, moving the latch out of the way, still doesn't give a great area for access.

I found that the hole method gives direct access and there is less chance of something else breaking (especially 17 year old plastic trim!!). Plus using the plastic hole cap gives a nice and tidy factory finish.

I will be drilling a hole on the passenger side now...as a preemptive strike in case I ever need to replace it.

 

[AstroWill]

Plus using the plastic hole cap gives a nice and tidy factory finish.

I certainly agree with you on that, it looks just like it belongs there.

It's always good to have a few different options! I had to replace the handles on my TIger, I used $7 ebay replacements and took the trim off. It's always that 1 nut that is a PITA, or maybe I just need smaller hands.

 

[Astroecho]

I agree, many different ways to get the same result.

It's a real bad design to have the top nut covered that way. If a factory hole can be drilled for the bottom nut, not sure why a factory hole/access area wasn't drilled for the top nut. I like a challenge anyway.

 

[RECox286]

To answer the question, the handle is mounted first, allowing access from where the latch

will mount for that top nut. And of course, the factory doesn't have to care about replacement

of that door handle, like we do. An extra hole makes up the difference, and only one of us

here would notice the spare plug in the door. Win, win ! Any way, youse guys are into mods

like crazy, so why beach about a spare hole in the door to make things easier with a handle change ?

Uncle Bob

 

[zzimmer3]

excellent write up! thanks. I've changed both door handles on my 94, what a total pain. if my current van needs them, i'll use this technique. :ty:

 

[AstroWill]

No beaching here

 

[Astroecho]

zzimmer3 - The hole is not my idea, I got it from several users on this forum after reading previous threads. I just wanted to do a helpful "how-to" thread. Glad you like it.

Recox286 - Interesting to know the handle is installed first at the factory, makes sense.

As I said earlier, I like the ease of access from the hole and the clean look, so will drill out the passenger door on my next day off.

 

[AstroWill]

As I said earlier, I like the ease of access from the hole and the clean look, so will drill out the passenger door on my next day off.

I like easy access holes, only ones with a clean look.

 

[smokinjoe]

That is a great write up. I had to do my last handle in 22*F and man did that not bring a bucket of smiles.

I fully intend to do that hole jammie next time.

I don't know that you can lube them enough to prevent failure.

Seems like a lot of work to tear them off junk doors when you can buy them for like $11 on ebay.

 

[RECox286]

The trick is to get real OEM handles from JY, rather than cHINESE aftermarket ones from Flea-bay.

There is a difference !

Uncle Bob

 

[Astroecho]

As I said earlier, I like the ease of access from the hole and the clean look, so will drill out the passenger door on my next day off.

I like easy access holes, only ones with a clean look.

:rofl: :rofl:

 

[smokinjoe]

So going to do the driver door handle again,

Echo it looks like you didn't remove the door latch at any point. It that true?

The vid on utube swears you need to remove the latch but I don't remember doing that last time.

 

[RECox286]

You need to remove the latch, OR drill an access hole as shown in this post. One or the other.

Obviously, the access hole is the better choice, b/c I've tried to remove the latch, and w/o

unhooking the push/pull rods, it ain't gonn'a happen this side of mid-night !

Uncle Bob

 

[smokinjoe]

Haha, Bob, was just having that exact thought about midnight.

 

[RECox286]

GMTA ???

UB

 

[Astroecho]

As Uncle Bob stated, there are only 2 options: 1) Door latch removal method (remove interior trim, locking rods, latch etc etc PITA) or 2) Drill a hole in the door.

Much easier to drill a hole, then the latch and all the other garb doesn't have to be removed. If you follow the steps the same way I did it, it should be "relatively" pain free. Just make sure the hole is away from the door latch. I included the measurements as a rough guide to where to drill the hole. Simples :banana:

 

[smokinjoe]

Yeah for sure I am gonna do the hole. Just mad that I didn't get to make the hole and its 29 min to midnight.(eastern time).