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Flexplate Bolts Came Loose

954 Views 16 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  sixsix
Hello,

Initially I had posted my 'strange noise' in the engine forum believing that it was coming from the engine.

As it turns out, the noise was apparently coming from the flexplate bolts coming out of the torque converter! By the time I had this figured out, all three bolts had come out.

I pulled the transmission and that has lead me to a lot of questions that I hope the experienced here can answer.

Also, it seems as though the transmission cooler lines are dry.. which seems odd to me but maybe someone here can comment as to if the transmission pump is working is it possible that the transmission fluid wasn't being pumped through the cooler?

The fluid was very dark, not so much of a burnt smell, but very dark.

I have already determined that I need to replace the flexplate and the converter since both have oblong holes in them now where the bolts should go. New bolts too..

But, below are some photos that concern me.

This is the input shaft. I'm concerned about the splines being a bit messed up. A replacement input shaft is pretty expensive, and that means having to pull the pump (at least) .. but if I must I must. Does this need replacing?


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Mostly a curious question. Can anyone tell of this is the original TC? Are there any signs of wear showing on the TC that should have me concerned about further damage to the transmission? Does anyone know the meaning of the numbers and letters stamped about the exterior?


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Here's a photo of the pan. There's some accumulation of 'dust' on the magnet. My take is that this isn't a serious amount of material, and the particle size isn't something to be concerned about. What are your thoughts? The debris by the Philips bit, I believe, is some grit that fell into the pan while we were removing it from the van.


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more pan pics in a reply post.. AstroSafari says I can only have 10 photos..

Looking forward to your replies.

Thank you,
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And one more pan pic...

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The converter is a aftermarket rebuilt.
Converter and front pump need replaced. Might as well disassemble trans to check everything else.
"Seems Dry'. ?? Oil generally drains back to the trans after engine is shut off. But, while trans is apart, you can make sure the system has not been blocked off, and, as you will be "rebuilding" trans, cooler and lines should be flushed, so this will tell you if there is a blockage.
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I've used compressed air and carburetor cleaner to flush the cooler lines in the past, being sure to clear all the cleaner out before reassembly.
I've used compressed air and carburetor cleaner to flush the cooler lines in the past, being sure to clear all the cleaner out before reassembly.
Kooler Kleen in a spray can has been around for many years, and the bit of residue left will not harm new trans fluid.
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Those splines are shot. It needs to be replaced. The good news is there are a bunch of them, used and refurbished, with the drum, on eBay pretty cheap. Just make sure you get the correct one, they come in 298mm and 300mm and are not interchangeable.
When the splines start to remachine themselves, definitely time for a replacement.

Compressed air and good old carburetor cleaner still works great, and it's cheap. Just let the air blow thru for a min afterwards to make certain all cleaner is evaporated.
Those splines are shot. It needs to be replaced. The good news is there are a bunch of them, used and refurbished, with the drum, on eBay pretty cheap. Just make sure you get the correct one, they come in 298mm and 300mm and are not interchangeable.
Correction. I went out and looked at the 2 that I have and they are both like that. They were machined that way so it's not a problem.
Those cuts in the shaft might be there to keep the torque converter from moving to the transmission or the shaft from going towards the motor.
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Correction. I went out and looked at the 2 that I have and they are both like that. They were machined that way so it's not a problem.
You have brand new ones that look like that? I doubt it. The splines are not hardened, the stator support(the splines) are a wear item. Yes, they will last for a while yet, but as the convertor was bouncing around, I feel the trans should be disassembled and checked, so, if doing that, a new stator support is 50 bucks. You defiantly would not want to use that one for hi-per or serious off road. They even make hardened ones for such.Here is what a new one looks like-
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Yeah, I decided to go ahead and replace mine. I ordered a Sonnax stator shaft off of Amazon and it was about $80. Well worth it to not have to worry about it.

Since my daughter has spent a bunch of money at AAMCO the guy said he'd press it off and the new one on for free. Can't beat that price!
Thank you all for the replies and advice.

So, just to confirm, the wear on the splines in the photos I posted is not supposed to be there and that's a replacement part?

Does this mean that I do not have to replace the entire pump if I get my hands on one of these stator shafts? Generally speaking of course.. I realize there might be more damage lurking.

Has anyone done a rebuild on their own (as a DIYer)? If so, any links to sites with great information, or pointers are most welcome.

Best,
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I'm in the middle of doing my 94 transmission for the second time. I ordered a Sonnax stator shaft off of Amazon and took it down to Aamco to have it pressed on. It's not something I would recommend doing yourself.

I have a horror story about further damage as you go, but that's going on my post. Let's just say coolant in the transmission is catastrophic to metal on metal surfaces that normally ride on a nice cushion of tranny fluid.
I'm in the middle of doing my 94 transmission for the second time. I ordered a Sonnax stator shaft off of Amazon and took it down to Aamco to have it pressed on. It's not something I would recommend doing yourself.

I have a horror story about further damage as you go, but that's going on my post. Let's just say coolant in the transmission is catastrophic to metal on metal surfaces that normally ride on a nice cushion of tranny fluid.

Is the stator shaft the one that has the Teflon seals that are tricky to install? If I understand what I've read / watched there are two places inside the trans that have these Teflon rings and they can be tricky to install and get right.

Have you started your thread on your rebuild yet? If so, I'd be interested in a link to it.

Thanks,
Is the stator shaft the one that has the Teflon seals that are tricky to install? If I understand what I've read / watched there are two places inside the trans that have these Teflon rings and they can be tricky to install and get right.

Have you started your thread on your rebuild yet? If so, I'd be interested in a link to it.

Thanks,
Yeah. The stator shaft has 2 teflon seals and the turbine shaft has 4. If you have the right tools they aren't tricky at all.


You put the seals on the installer tool and carefully work them down onto the shaft and into their grooves.

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Once they are on you use the sizing tool to compress them into the grooves.

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That's all there is to it.
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If you're interested in all the gory details, here's my first build.

Epartsman said:
... Has anyone done a rebuild on their own (as a DIYer)? If so, any links to sites with great information, or pointers are most welcome.

Best,
Woodbutcher, a member here rebuilt his and documented it well on the site.
There a few other DIY threads that also list a couple manuals or guides that are "Must Haves" for rebuilding the 4L60 series.
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