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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey ya'll first post, been doing a bit of digging as I am purchasing an '01 Safari tomorrow for a light duty work vehicle. It is has the 5x7 sealed beams and I was doing some reading regarding how the system uses a double ground. I think I'll be fine wiring in a harness to take care of that issue, but since I live and work in northern MN I wanted to solve the issue of my LED lights freezing over due to lack of heat from the bulb like with sealed beams. Years ago I picked up a JW Speaker 8910 Evo 2 for my snowmobile; it has a heating element akin to a rear defroster. Figured Id donate that to the van and buy another.

Here is the specs page for the Evo 2: https://www.jwspeaker.com/products/led-headlights-model-8910-evolution-2/0554461/

I am needing a little bit of guidance as I am unsure if a standard relay setup to allow standard H4 sealed beams would be enough with beefier wiring. The unit draws 5.35a @ 12v at maximum draw with heater and both hi/low engaged. In a perfect world I'd be able to use a harness like this https://amzn.to/3K7rUFH; I believe since it directly connects to the battery it'd be safe enough that I wouldnt cook the stock wiring. I had a gentleman rig up a similar system for the sled it used to live in.

Any thoughts or opinions are appreciated and hopefully you'll see some progress photos once I tear into the new member of the family. Thanks!
 

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I would start with comparing the stock wattage. I just did a quick search for halogen 5x7's and got 35-55W as power consumption. 55/12=~4.5A so I think it would be fine. You could always just use a Multi-meter (set to current) to test how much current it pulls with the stock bulbs then just plug in the new units and compare.

You can use the stock headlight wiring to trigger a relay that pulls straight from the battery. Negative switched or not. You got a couple options depending on how much work you want to put into it.
 

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I considered the JW's. I went with Morimoto's. I am very impressed with the light output, cut off etc. I did not go with heated and so far I'm not missing that feature. I was in some freezing rain/sleet storm for about an hour and didn't have an issue. I suppose putting a coat of rain X or similar on the lens would help but so far so good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I know from experience the JW will need a relay to the battery to work at full power; bought a custom H4 relay designed for motorcycles to use with the sled.
My old hella H4s pulled 60W with high beam on, so like 5A if I did that math correctly. Those never had issue in my old ranger, I couldnt imagine 5.35~A would make that much difference on the stock wiring. But yes they do pull more power, as the lo/hi run together unlike some LED 5x7s that run one or the other.

Rockridge, its nicer to have in the -30 day where the LEDs may actually stop functioning, its as much to prevent ice build up as it is to ensure safe operating temperature in extreme cold. Some of our stop lights use the same heater tech when they redid the infrastructure.

Also slight update, went to see the safari one last time and it had a hold in the floor under the mat I didnt catch the first time. Ended up driving 2 hours to Iowa to get a 97 Astro w/ half the miles and none of the surface rust. Going to try my hand at the pull yard tomorrow to convert the front end from composite to the 5x7s.

Thanks for the input ya'll
 

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The factory stock lights, the split version not sigle beam style, work just fine in -30 weather up here in Canada. Even when there is freezing rain. Just melts off as it is without added heater..
Now the top and side of windshield that is another story. There is never enough heat in those areas when driving in a blizzard with freezing rain added in the hilly country areas. Had to slow down a number of times inonder for the heat to melt the build up.
 
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