Not everybody was born with a silver spoon in thier mouth and can afford these kind of complete motors.Kids today are hot rodding hondas because that all they got to work with.It a free country where you are(quote unquote) in the pursuit of happiness.If it makes that guy with the puffed up chest happy I say more power to him.The octane requirement and the computer were designed to defeat performance in these engines.That is part of the hot rodding spirit trial and error learning.Friend of mine had a 71 chevelle he had less than 150 bucks in it.It ran 12.70 in the quarter consistently for 8 years just headers.Stock motor.Computer is your biggest performance enemy on these vans.I posted my speedo and I got a 6 second better 0-65 times than factory. Not spending a dime just tuning the beast.A car/van dont have to be a 9 second machine to be enjoyable to drive.But at least get the performance out of it,it is capable of.Dont be defeated all or nothing.I dont understand that train of thought.If I cant compete in NHRA drags I will make it run as poorly as it was factory.Seems self defeating and sadistic.The purpose of this thread is how to better enjoy your van.Not how/why to hate its engine. :2:
hotrodding the 4.3 V6 (tips & tricks)
G'day, mates!
For those of you who have the venerable 4.3 v6, but want more power as well as throttle response this post is for you.
First off, I know how frustrating it is to have to work with all of the limitations built into the Astro engine: the small choked up t.b.i., or the weirdo c.p.i. "spider" intake manifold, mild cams, and weak ignitions, etc. :crying: There isn't one day that goes by that I don't think about how can I make my engine PERFORM better.
I will admit, a v-8 option SHOULD have been offered. As well as a turbo (look at the syclone/typhoon), or at LEAST take the tuned port intake (instead of cpi) and chop two ports off of it and tune it! (Would make an awesome project). But, since I rent an apartment, most projects HAVE to be done within a day or two.
So, most of these tips are Very doable with minimal downtime. 🍌 Also, throwing big money at hipo parts doesn't always pay off. (Not in this day and age, anyways) Only the parts that are reasonably priced will be mentioned.......
1. Ram-air: bringing in COOLER air makes it easier for the engine to make power. (Try driving your van without a/c with the windows up on a 90 degree day, your engine is in the same scenario ) This can be made at home with dryer ducting with an aluminum sheets and some clamps. Cheap Cheap! :dance:
2. K&N filter: (8-10 horsepower). If you are in a dusty area, add a foam filter as a buffer. Paper filters restrict your airflow and most people forget about them and they get progressively dirty.
3. Morosso or Proform Air cleaner base: smooths out the airflow and allows removal of the stock "restricter" ring underneath it. This thing is TERRIBLE for performance.
![0000tbi choker.jpg]()
4. Raise the TBI injector pod: this allows more air to get in past the injectors. Turbo city has some goodies. View attachment 4 This spacer/gasket raises the injector pod 1/4". I raised mine to 1". :layrubber:
5. Adjustable fuel pressure regulator: Add more air, add more fuel. Raising your fuel pressure on late models is akin to changing jets on a carb.
![0 1000 cfm adjregulator.jpg]()
6. Fuel pressure gauge: for proper fuel pressure tuning. I set mine to 15 psi. these are fairly cheap.
7. Throttle spring modification: Removal of the stock throttle spring, and replacing it with a SOFTER old-style return spring(s) will increase the opening speed and improve overall throttle response.
8. Throttle enhancer: Casper electronics has a piggyback sensor that when the throttle is at 70% open, it tricks the computer into thinking it's at 100% open, increasing throttle response. (This product DOES work very well, I have one on my Fiero as well)
![0 1000 tps enhancer.jpg]()
9. Bigger TBI: Stick with the stock one...UNLESS you add an edelbrock aluminum intake with a 7.4 liter TBI with the 2" bores. ( This is just a backburner idea at most)
10.1" Throttlebody spacer : (fits under TBI) will add torque by increasing the intake volume. Swirl-type spacers also help mix the fuel and additional air before it's combusted. Unfortunately, swirl types don't work on CPIs....they're port-injected already. I currently have the helix 1 1" spacer. I thought I remembered seeing a 2" trandapt spacer years ago but, I think they discontinued it. Just a while ago, found out CFM technologies has a spacer that's supposed to allow the engine to pull air/fuel from either tbi bore (if it's a duel-plane), offering a more balanced air/fuel mix resulting in more power. Not sure if ours is a dual or single plane, but it's worth mentioning.
![0 1000 supersucker.jpg]()
Most of these parts , together as a whole and with tuning, should net 20+ horsepower. :rockon:
This concludes part ONE for now..........stay tuned for more.
Thank you
For those of you who have the venerable 4.3 v6, but want more power as well as throttle response this post is for you.
First off, I know how frustrating it is to have to work with all of the limitations built into the Astro engine: the small choked up t.b.i., or the weirdo c.p.i. "spider" intake manifold, mild cams, and weak ignitions, etc. :crying: There isn't one day that goes by that I don't think about how can I make my engine PERFORM better.
I will admit, a v-8 option SHOULD have been offered. As well as a turbo (look at the syclone/typhoon), or at LEAST take the tuned port intake (instead of cpi) and chop two ports off of it and tune it! (Would make an awesome project). But, since I rent an apartment, most projects HAVE to be done within a day or two.
So, most of these tips are Very doable with minimal downtime. 🍌 Also, throwing big money at hipo parts doesn't always pay off. (Not in this day and age, anyways) Only the parts that are reasonably priced will be mentioned.......
1. Ram-air: bringing in COOLER air makes it easier for the engine to make power. (Try driving your van without a/c with the windows up on a 90 degree day, your engine is in the same scenario ) This can be made at home with dryer ducting with an aluminum sheets and some clamps. Cheap Cheap! :dance:
2. K&N filter: (8-10 horsepower). If you are in a dusty area, add a foam filter as a buffer. Paper filters restrict your airflow and most people forget about them and they get progressively dirty.
3. Morosso or Proform Air cleaner base: smooths out the airflow and allows removal of the stock "restricter" ring underneath it. This thing is TERRIBLE for performance.
4. Raise the TBI injector pod: this allows more air to get in past the injectors. Turbo city has some goodies. View attachment 4 This spacer/gasket raises the injector pod 1/4". I raised mine to 1". :layrubber:
5. Adjustable fuel pressure regulator: Add more air, add more fuel. Raising your fuel pressure on late models is akin to changing jets on a carb.
6. Fuel pressure gauge: for proper fuel pressure tuning. I set mine to 15 psi. these are fairly cheap.
7. Throttle spring modification: Removal of the stock throttle spring, and replacing it with a SOFTER old-style return spring(s) will increase the opening speed and improve overall throttle response.
8. Throttle enhancer: Casper electronics has a piggyback sensor that when the throttle is at 70% open, it tricks the computer into thinking it's at 100% open, increasing throttle response. (This product DOES work very well, I have one on my Fiero as well)
9. Bigger TBI: Stick with the stock one...UNLESS you add an edelbrock aluminum intake with a 7.4 liter TBI with the 2" bores. ( This is just a backburner idea at most)
10.1" Throttlebody spacer : (fits under TBI) will add torque by increasing the intake volume. Swirl-type spacers also help mix the fuel and additional air before it's combusted. Unfortunately, swirl types don't work on CPIs....they're port-injected already. I currently have the helix 1 1" spacer. I thought I remembered seeing a 2" trandapt spacer years ago but, I think they discontinued it. Just a while ago, found out CFM technologies has a spacer that's supposed to allow the engine to pull air/fuel from either tbi bore (if it's a duel-plane), offering a more balanced air/fuel mix resulting in more power. Not sure if ours is a dual or single plane, but it's worth mentioning.
Most of these parts , together as a whole and with tuning, should net 20+ horsepower. :rockon:
This concludes part ONE for now..........stay tuned for more.
Thank you
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1 - 19 of 191 Posts
The mazda 3 makes 167hp with a 2.5 liter almost as much as the 454 you mentioned and that would be 288 horse in our vans.Yes I have a tuning issues with that.I am sure the mazda passing emissions.Any monkey with a wrench could tune a 375 horse 396 and get 500hp with headers it been done a hundred times.Where that OBD1 tuning program you talking about.Oh it does not exist.Replace the computer buy a tuner and program.1000-2000 bucks and you have not even touched the engine yet.Yes I consider that a performance enemy when I can buy a faster car for the money it cost just to tune one.Or buy a carbed 450 hp 383 and stick it in for the same price.The 2 MPG and 8HP claimed computer over carb set up is not worth the money.I can drive a long way on that much money.The 71 chevelle had 135 bucks in it.Ran the number 8 years headers 4bbl 4 speed not that tough to do hang at the strip a day.No it was not in factory trim it had a highly restrictive single exhaust 2bbl 3 on the tree.Glad you brought that up it kinda was the point.Show me any computer car where you can increase performance that dramatically for 75 bucks 10 hours work and some junk most would have thrown away.Yes he paid 60 bucks for it.And for the crack about him needing to go to jail.Nobody ever said he was doing 165MPH late at night coming home from work.Beside you said it was impossible so I guess he safe. 
Place is hopping tonight sorry I late for the party.
EGR Block. Electronic doesn't need the ceter hole only the bolt holes.
![EGR Block.jpg]()
EGR Block. Electronic doesn't need the ceter hole only the bolt holes.
1 - 19 of 191 Posts
