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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
got all the bolts out...mission now it's loose and i cannot get it out. There are two star shaped bolts (nuts attatch from below holding the oil pan on to these) which if they unscrew might give me more room to play with. The other option is looking like taking the front drive axle out as that is the major barrier to progress. What is the easiest / simplest way of doing this?
any help greatly appreciated the mech wants $400 to get it off and that's not an option.
cheers G :shrug: :shrug:
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Now i got those bolts out (star shaped at ends of oil pan), then dropped the exhaust to get more room, no luck so i took the starter out, still no luck and i'm looking at how to lower the front drive shaft which should solve the issue. I've no manual and thing that if i take the two bolts out of the support in 'C' shaped bracket on the left in the 1st pic then take out some of the mounting supports for the front diff it will lower and i can get it out.

Anyone have thoughts on this? spent most of the day under it and wish i had my old subaru back right now !!
Blasphemy i know!
thanks G :shrug: :feedback:
 

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Hi gbanga

Might I suggest you get it braised up or welded. It would be much less time consuming to go that route and I don't think a good welder would charge much for the repair.

If you still want to remove the Oil Pan, then here is what I found for your year and AWD set-up. You might want to try rotating the crank a bit, it might be blocking the removal of it or gently jack the front of the motor up a bit to get it to clear. Just a thought.

Hope this helps.:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks Matrixx, I tried the welder route and they'll only touch it if it's off the van and clean so that's my end goal as i don't want to go through this in the pick, n pull and a new one is $120.
I don't think it makes a difference whether you take the exhaust off at the manifold or not it's mainly to get the flywheel cover off and provide room which i've got now ( OR At least as much as that will provide). Maybe the crank and kack might help i'll give it a go tomorrow night after work. If the steps you suggest are correct then i should be able to get it off as i've done all that.
thanks i'll let you know.
G :ty:
 

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Hi gbanga

Ok, thanks. That's what's stated for the AWD. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So i've tried everything i can think of, removed some of the front diff bolts to gain and inch or so clearance between the sump and front drive shaft, jacked the engine a little and it's close but no cigar. This is getting to be ridiculous and i am cursing GM every time i lay under the thing.
Has anyone ever done this themselves? Do i need to take the whole bloody front diff and driveshaft off?
Seriously considering towning it to a mech which i cannot affor or burning the thing.. :screaming: :screaming:
 

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HI gbanga

I looked up a newer version for the oil pan removal with the AWD set-up and it's more detailed in what needs to be removed for the later model. I'm sure this would apply to you but just compare them to make sure.

Additional Information for Oil Pan removal:

-Remove the inner axle shaft housing support bracket to the frame nuts and the washers.
-Remove the front differential carrier upper and lower mounting nuts a bolts
-Lower the front differential carrier "only" enough for removal of the oil pan

This carrier must be supported before removing any parts from it first.

Hope this helps gbanga, here are the images below for the additional steps.:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
YAAAAYY!! got it out after taking out the two bracket bolts (the ones i originally thought to and didn't take out) so the pan is off and i'm taking it to the welder today!!
Thanks for the advice, what is the story with the seals at each end? what condition should they be in and is it a gasket i buy for the sump or just use gasget glue?
I know the questions nevber end!!
cheers G :ty:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I went to the welder and it's gonna be 90$ to weld or a new one for $120 so i'll get the new one. Can i reuse the molded rubber gasket? it's gonna cost $110 just for that.... sheeeesh the one that's in there seems fine?
cheers G
 

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Hi gbanga

I would replace the oil pan gasket for sure. It usually comes with both a front and back seal in the oil pan gasket kit, but make sure it does (very important). Make sure you clean all the sealing surfaces off from any old gasket, dirt or grease.

Add a bit of Hi Temp Gasket Maker silicone (orange stuff from Permatex) to both corners of each seal to make sure it seals properly, then install the oil pan and torque to specs. in the torque sequence opposite from each other working from the middle outwards.

Hope this helps. Please keep us updated, Thanks.:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well i don't want to jinx it but i've got it all back together with a 2nd hand sump ($120 from wreckers!!!!not cheap) and as a result couldn't afford a new gasket.
So i cleaned the old one up free of residues etc and used permatex blue on it and so far after a test drive it's not leaKING at all, touch wood.

Thanks to Matrix for the help, i would've been struggling without it.
I would be able to do this job pretty quick by doing the steps in the following order.
1: remove exhaust from flanges on both sides
2: drop fly wheel cover
3: drop starter and wire off to the side
4: undoe nuts on the bracket holding the axle shaft ( diagram and photo in this thread page 1)
5: Loosen mounts on the diff as needed to get the clearence required
6: undo the oil pan bolts and remove

I hope this helps anyone avoid the frustrations i incurred but for the 30hrs of labour i was quoted by one mech and 10 hours for another it was well worth my while giving it a crack, literally!!

cheers again G :ty: :mrgreen:
 

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Hi gbanga

Thanks for the kind words GB. We always do our best to help out.:)
 
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