This write up was done while I removed and installed my new fuel pump.
Step 1. Disconnect the negative (-) battery cable.
Step 2. Raise and SAFELY support your van with either jack stands or ramps. The higher the better, also note that it does help to raise both the front and the rear of the van.
Step 3. I reccomend that you drain the fuel from the tank unless you have a quarter or less. This can be accomplished with a hand siphon or pump.
Step 4. Remove the splash gaurd from the driveshaft side of the fuel tank. It is installed with four press in clips and multiple slip on clips. It looks like this.
Step 7. Break loose but DO NOT remove the drivers side retaining strap bolts, on most vans the bolts do not need to be loosened as they are set from the factory to allow the strap to rotate freely once the bolts on the opposite side are removed, mine were over tightened by the previous owner or their mechanic. There is a hidden 15 mm nut on top of the strap where it attaches to the chassis. I have a needle nose vise grip on it in this pic to show where it is. I used a 12" extension and 15mm socket and a 15mm wrench to loosen these.
Step 9. Now is the time to support the fuel tank. I reccomend the use of either a transmission jack or a atv/motorcycle jack for this as it greatly eases the process.
Step 10. The fuel lines and the vent lines should now be removed from the hard lines. the two fuel lines require the use of a 5/8 line wrench and a 3/4 line wrench. the two vents are simple pinch clamps that can be removed with a pliers. Removing the rubber lines for the vents is a bit easier if the tank is lowered a few inches.
Step 11. Now it's time to remove the wiring harness. The wires run across the top of the tank and over to the drivers side they then follow the "frame" rail forwards and are attached to the body near the transmission. Unplug the harness and remove it from its retaining clips. Once it is free from the clips feed it through the hole in the "frame" and set it off to the side.
Step 12. Remove only the driveshaft side strap retaining bolts and then turn the straps 180 degrees out of the way.
Step 13. Now slowly lower the fuel tank being careful to make sure nothing gets caught and causes the tank to fall.
Step 14. Now it is time to remove the fuel pump / sending unit assembly. I accomplished this with a brass drift punch. Use the punch and a hammer to rotate the lock ring counter clock wise until it lines up with the notches in the top of the tank.
Step 15. Next you will need to remove the assembly from the tank be careful with this so the strainer does not fall off in the tank and the float arm does not get damaged.
Step 16. To remove the fuel pump from the sending unit you will need to remove the wiring harness and then push the pump up towards the top of the unit and when you have clearance tilt the fuel pump outwards and then pull down on it to remove it.
Step 17. Replace the o-ring seal on the top of the tank with a new one.
I hope this helps someone out there with there fuel pump job. Feel free to make comments on this post so I can make sure my details are as accurate as possible.
Yes, that is a good detailed write up. I would like to point out that there is no need for step 7. By removing the driveshaft side bolts, the straps will pivot 180* with no adjustments to the driver side bolts and nuts. Since the bolt is left 2" out and the nut is used to lock the bolt in place, no pressure is put between the frame and the strap base.
this is a good writeup 1992rs :goodpost: i've changed my fuel pump twice already in 2 years and i never though about doing a how to.
p.s. DON'T BUY AUTOZONE FUEL PUMPS.
Everyone doing this should buy Delphi or ACDelco pumps if possible...avoid Airtex, store brands, or no-name brands on eBay. The few bucks you save will not be worth the grief when it fails. The quality control on these made-in-China replacements is very haphazard. Some of them work, some don't. I have seen too many fail within a day to several months to recommend them. I did find a Delco rebuild kit on eBay for $60 that saved me alot of money, however. Also, if you are replacing the pump itself, not the whole module, be sure to CLAMP the nylon hose on, not just heat-seat it like it was originally. Small hose clamps will fit if you are careful. The pressure on these pumps WILL push that hose right off if it is not on there tight. Don't take a chance.
Everyone doing this should buy Delphi or ACDelco pumps if possible...avoid Airtex, store brands, or no-name brands on eBay. The few bucks you save will not be worth the grief when it fails. The quality control on these made-in-China replacements is very haphazard. Some of them work, some don't. I have seen too many fail within a day to several months to recommend them. I did find a Delco rebuild kit on eBay for $60 that saved me alot of money, however. Also, if you are replacing the pump itself, not the whole module, be sure to CLAMP the nylon hose on, not just heat-seat it like it was originally. Small hose clamps will fit if you are careful. The pressure on these pumps WILL push that hose right off if it is not on there tight. Don't take a chance.
Worse yet, I've seen those cheap pumps work but not work right. My neighbor got a cheap one and the van ran, but it had an ugly miss and loss of power over 35 mph. Turns out the pump would put out 60 psi at idle but once you put a load on it, it would drop to 52-55 psi and once shut off, held no pressure at all. A new Delphi pump solved all of his problems.
Yeah, have a buddy coming over, has a floor jack, tank has only about 10 litres of fuel in it. But hey, THIS How-To will save me a LOT of time, THANK YOU !!
Have done 2 of these in-tank fuel pump changes before on my 2003 Cavalier, so at least I know what I am in for, of sorts...
Just remember dont take out the outboard bolts on the tank straps only the driveshaft side ones. Also try to find a flat piece of wood to place between the jack and the tank to even out the pressure on the tank just for the simple fact that you dont want to bend it up and possibly do damage to the sending unit or not be able to put the assembly back in.
Well, so far so good... Everything came off fairly easy.
Had to scrape some weatherproofing off of some hose clamps, have to replace a one of them, however went fairly good.
A Few things to note: 1990 GMC Safari - I did not have to deal with any splashguard, but most annoying, the four hoses that connect from the Sending Unit to the fixed line hookups are ABOVE the Tank. No access to unclip / loosen hose clamps until you drop the tank which actually gives you plenty of room (and I'm not a small guy) to work with. Considering where I live (BC Canada, West Coast - Plenty of Rain), for a 20 year old vehicle it was pretty clean under there.
Most odd though, Once the tank lines were disconnected, I could NOT figure out how to disconnect the power line going to the Sending Unit. Yellow Clip. 3-4 wires going into it. Anyhow, it is engineered that I was able to remove the Sending Unit / Fuel Pump assembly while this was still attached.
LOTS of extra wiring simply clipped along the frame edging to the front of the vehicle.
If anyone can tell me how this comes apart, let me know. As it may appear, I couldn't 'pull out' what appeared to be the wired insert into the Yellow Cap without doing damage. I see no release of the clip....
OK, so this clip does NOT come apart. I found images on Yahoo that shows my sending unit, and as new, it comes with the clip intact.
So if your in the same spot, do not attempt to seperate this little yellow clip from the top of the Sending Unit.
Question Answered
The wiring harness runs up towards the transmission cross member then turns toward the center of the van where it is a simple plug and can be detached.. I guess they put it there so it doesnt wiggle loose or become damaged and require you to remove the tank to fix it.
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