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Common Sense + Critical Thinking
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As far as #1, I would leave that pump in place unless it is currently failing you. There is no way of knowing if it's going to last you 50,000miles or 250,000 miles. The TBI systems are a pretty low pressure, ~12psi and the pumps last quite a long time.

As far as #2, I fill up when I get down to the red or the light comes on(depending on the year). So I guess I probably spend a little less than 50% of the time below 50%, has not been an issue for me. There is fuel flowing through the pump cooling it, and the return goes to a reservoir at the pump, so as long as you aren't running it completely dry constantly, the pumps are good to go.
Check out this Holly external inline fuel pump(probably made by Walbro), they even include an insulating isolator for the pump to keep it all cozy in it's mounting location. ;) Anyone want to bet it's being cooled by the fuel flowing through it?

#3, I have that problem as well, except it's always at least 2 tools that I forget to bring with me ;)
 

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Right on for #3! In my case, I rarely realize I'm missing two, "UNTIL" I've gotten up and back down for one of the two. :screaming: :banghead: I guess I'll give a pressure check and if all is OK, I'll just call it good for now!
Thank You Sir,
Gene
 

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I dropped my tank..just after I filled it. That was fun...soooo fun. Should of just cut the hole vs all the shenigans I went through to empty it.
 

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Having read thru this thread, and reading the good info in it, I was kind of surprised that no one mentioned finding a split rubber sleeve between the pump and the sending unit. I've had this happen on 2 early vans. An 86 Astro, and my wife's 90 Safari.

The first time was on the 86 (my wife's first van) and it happened in the parking lot of her work. I put a couple of gallons of gas in it, because I could hear the pump run, but nothing was getting to the TBI unit. After having it towed home, I dropped the tank, and pulled the sending unit out and saw the split hose. I did put in a new AC Delco pump and short piece of hose, then put it all back together again. Then when we bought the 90 GMC (with a rod knock, but Texas rust free), I swapped the engine out of the 86 and put it in the 90. I had just put that engine into the 86 about 2 years prior due to the original 86 engine loosing oil pressure sitting at a traffic light and seizing up. Once the swap was done, I moved the van out of the shop 30 feet, and parked it in a spot temporarily so I could clean up the mess I had made doing the engine swap. Went to move it back into the shop, and it wouldn't start. You could hear the pump run, but no start. Cracked a fitting on the fuel filter loose, and tried it again and barely a dribble came out. Dropped the tank right there where it was parked and then got another AC Delco pump because that hose was split in it. A friend of mine ran into the same issue on a 92 S-10, so I know it's more common than it's admitted. I think it's an age type of deal, in that the hose split right around 18 years of service on both vehicles (mine).

Sorry if this reply is long, but I wanted to get this in here somewhere, and point out the AC Delco pump is the way to go. We (a friend of mine and I) even put a used Delco pump into a S-10 to sell it. The pump worked fine, even after 12 years of use, and sitting on a shelf for another 6 years.
 

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I did mine yesterday, on the concrete, by myself. Took me 4.5 hours start to clean-up, taking my time and taking videos. Dropped the tank, didn't cut a hole in the floor, and I'm glad. HOWEVER depending on your build, circumstances, the quality of your access panel, etc., it may make more sense for you to cut a hatch. I had about 5-6 gallons in the tank at the time. If I had to do this again, it would take no more than 3 hours, maybe 2. Less with a helper. Notes:

-'04 Astro with the plastic tank. 141k miles. Heat/rock shield underneath, no shielding on top of tank. My underbody was pretty clean and all the bolts turned fine. Dirtiest place was right on top of the pump.
-I depressurized my fuel system by pulling the pump relay (my pump still worked except for the one time it didn't), then starting the engine until it died (quickly), then cranking some more for a few seconds. I think this is worth the extra few seconds it takes to not blast high pressure gasoline everywhere. Of course disconnected the battery next.
-My strap bolts were tightened all the way on both sides. I do recommend lowering those out as much as possible on all 4 corners before disconnecting hoses and supporting/lowering the tank as they're over 2" long. I reinstalled them as I found them and I can't imagine leaving any slack in any of them.
-My straps didn't have any hidden bolts or tricks, just 2 bolts/strap, straight up into the frame rails.
-ATV jack would have been sweet but I did it with a floor jack and a piece of 6x6. If you use a piece of wood to distribute the load of the tank, make sure it's short enough that it fits between the straps (doesn't cover one). Otherwise you won't be able to lower the tank out without disconnecting both sides of that strap. Not a huge deal if you had to do that really. The trickiest part was balancing the tank on the jack on the way down and back up, using legs, knees, arms, head, whatever is necessary while operating the jack with the other hand. I can't imagine trying to do this with much more than 5-6 gallons in the tank. Asking for trouble! Once the jack was all the way down I just rocked the tank to the front and worked the jack/wood out from underneath. Installation was the reverse.
-All my connections came apart with hand tools. One of the vent tubes required a pick to pry the teeth open from the side, and that was the only remotely difficult one. The others either required hand squeezing to open the tabs or were the kind with colored inserts; those were a little easier with needle nose pliers to squeeze the tabs but probably were do-able with hands as well. The soft lines that connect to the hard lines above the tank (right under the floor) were hard to get to because you have to reach up between the driveshaft and giant muffler, and around the edge of the tank heat shield to get to the connections (see pic). This is where I used needlenose mainly because I couldn't get both arms/hands up into that space very well.
Screenshot (1).png

-There was one electrical harness connection to unhook before dropping the tank, the connector was attached to the unibody in front of the tank. It gave me a little trouble because it looked kind of crazy, with an orange piece tied to one of the wires and integrated into the connector. It turned out that I just needed to pull that piece straight out of the connection (like a safety), then I could press the tab on the connector and it came right apart. Pic:
Screenshot (2).png

-Connections on top of tank were simple, two with the colored inserts (squeeze the insert and pull the connector), one in the center with the molded ring (squeeze the flat parts of the ring and pull), and two electrical ones with simple tabs to pry open with your hand and pull apart. One of these did have a little blue plastic safety insert that I had to pry out before I could manipulate the tab. Pic:
Screenshot (3).png

-Once I had the tank out and before I pulled the pump, I used a brush and canned air (like for a computer) to clean the top of the tank off as well as possible. Air compressor would have been better but this worked fine. You won't get everything, namely the crud that's wedged under the pump retainer ring. When I whacked that ring with hammer/screwdriver, some more crud loosened up, and I blew that away a couple more times before I had it apart. Then, there was more dirt/crud underneath when I actually pulled the pump. I carefully loosened this with my finger then tried to grab it with a shop vac, but the vacuum didn't catch all the dirt (actually threw it across the nozzle but didn't suck it in), and a few little pieces got into the tank. Just a few. If I were to do this over I would have put my hand under the rim while vacuuming, I think this would have worked better.
-A hand siphon pump and adequate gas cans are good things to have on hand so you can remove any fuel from the tank, clean it if necessary, then have a much better time reinstalling it. I didn't have these things, and I got by just fine. Fortunately my tank was very clean inside, even after my slightly botched shop-vac'ing.
-I did the fuel filter a month or two ago so I didn't replace that again.
 

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Howdy all,

Im doing a fuel pump swap this weekend,
Im wondering how high you need to jack the van to get the clearance it needs to swing the tank out from underneath?

I have runner boards on my van (seen in photo) which add about 4-5 inches to the sidewall. will these need to come off or should I be able to drop the tank out underneath them?

Screen Shot 2019-02-26 at 4.20.24 PM.png


If possible I would cut a hole in the floor, but the rig is built out and it would involve more effort to go down this route.

Thanks for the info

Ralph
 

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And get Dorman clips for the FP hoses. 2x smaller left hoses and larger right side high pressure hose to fit into the hoses , then snap them into the Fp plastic pipes. Without those 3x Dorman clips (Autozone has them) the gas can blow off the larger ,right side high pressure hose and you are stuck by the road with gas leaking out.
 

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Pretty sure I need to change my fuel pump. I am thinking about cutting a access hole in the floor of the van to do it rather than dropping the tank to get to it. Would appreciate guidance as to measurements for the exact location to cut the access hole. Also suggestions for method of cutting. Will a Sawzall puncture holes in the tank, cut fuel lines or wires if I were to cut from above? How much space is there between the floor sheet metal and the tank? How to cut the hole without damaging the tank? Grinder? Sheet metal shears?
 

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N6KB said:
Pretty sure I need to change my fuel pump. I am thinking about cutting a access hole in the floor of the van to do it rather than dropping the tank to get to it. Would appreciate guidance as to measurements for the exact location to cut the access hole. Also suggestions for method of cutting. Will a Sawzall puncture holes in the tank, cut fuel lines or wires if I were to cut from above? How much space is there between the floor sheet metal and the tank? How to cut the hole without damaging the tank? Grinder? Sheet metal shears?
Check your inbox

-M!ke-
 

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I honestly don't understand why anyone cuts a hole. It takes so little time to drop the tank and you haven't opened a hole in the floor of your van that will allow exhaust into the van and create a potential rust spot on your van, I just don't get it.

Plus, while you've got the tank down, you can get to the brake and fuel lines next to the tank to clean 'em up, put rust reformer stuff on them of needed and paint if they don't and on the van around the tank, hopefully making that stuff last a little longer.
 

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Leeann_93 said:
I honestly don't understand why anyone cuts a hole. It takes so little time to drop the tank and you haven't opened a hole in the floor of your van that will allow exhaust into the van and create a potential rust spot on your van, I just don't get it.

Plus, while you've got the tank down, you can get to the brake and fuel lines next to the tank to clean 'em up, put rust reformer stuff on them of needed and paint if they don't and on the van around the tank, hopefully making that stuff last a little longer.
This is mostly for Leeann. Everything out here is over 100 miles to "something". Do you know what it costs to tow a vehicle 100 miles? Us poor people do not have towing insurance.Over the years I have cut holes in floor beds,mostly pickup trucks,on GM vehicles,is crazy. When you live in a high population area,things are much different.
 

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Now,as far as cutting the sheet metal in the floor,if you have never smelled gas fumes,never had a CEL for the fuel system,spray the underside,over top the fuel tank,with a water hose.A 3' air die grinder,with thin cutoff wheel works well,but,nowadays,harbor freight sells a cheep electric cut off wheel device.Stop and spray water over top the fuel tank,once in a while,if you have doubts. I have never had to do this.Resealing the floor is not really hard,I have done it different ways,but HVAC aluminum tape works very well.
 

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2001 GMC Safari RWD

Don't know what's going on with 'New Topic'. If I am in Engines forum I can't see a button for it.

Anyway, encountered a head scratcher today. Got a Low Fuel gauge light and the fuel gauge was at zero. I knew there was half a tank. Later, the gauge started working and Low Fuel light went off. Since, it has been on and off.

I suspect the fuel sender unit. If that's the case, is this a major issue like dropping the fuel tank?

If it is, I'll go for the other procedure on this site for cutting a hole in the van floor above the fuel tank.
 

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Leeann_93 said:
I honestly don't understand why anyone cuts a hole.
Leeann...I got caught out in the boonies once with a failed fuel pump. If I had a hole in the floor, it would have been a matter of opening it, getting a new pump, and installing it.

As it was, it was p***sing rain and the ground was flooded. There was no one in the one-horse town where I could get the pump changed and the nearest pump was 200 miles away.

I lucked out with BCAA, which is affiliated with CAA, AAA, and the Alberta equivalent. Because no one could fix it, they sent a tow truck from the town 200 miles away and towed me to the town.

Got it installed in that town but had to purchase it first and take it to the mechanic. I had no means of jacking the van and lowering the gas tank.
 

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I'm installing a new fuel tank and pump as we speak. Since mine was rotten and had 20 plus year old fuel in it, I removed everything. Trying to get the right grade and size fuel line seemed harder than it should be too. Trying to figure out how the wires run off the tank to the frame. I thought I had pictures, but no...it's been a while! Haha Probably need some new plastic pins to install the plastic shield not fastened to the tank. It's just such a pain with the limited space i have...and it's stupid hot here in the southeast.
 
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