A lot of people seem to be doing the cut the hole method. Just a little warning about that. If you dont seal it up well, you WILL get Carbon Monoxide poisoning on long drives. Is not really hard to drop the tank and if you are a reasonably prepared person you can easily drop the tank and replace the pump in a couple of hours on the MFI modles. The eairlier ones are a little more difficult due to the rusted fuel line nuts.
How to change your fuel pump.
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My 2002 starts up fine, if it ran recently, but after more than a day or so, it takes many tries to start up. Mechanic (Firestone) says pressure goes to 0 overnight. Says they recommend a new fuel pump, about $1100, which I can't afford. I asked if it could be the lines and they repeated the recommendation. I've essentially no experience as a vehicle mechanic and a small toolbox, but I'm mechanically inclined - have rebuilt lots of things - worked on my wheelchair, computers...woodworking.
Any ideas? Having found this thread, I'm thinking it's beyond me. Seems well beyond me n my toolbox if a new fuel pump is needed. Seems worth taking to another mechanic. I don't know what to look for under the hood.
I could try to find someone (in/near San Francisco/Oakland) who'll do/help with cutting a hole in the floor... but while mine is a cargo van, the floor is covered with plywood, rubber and foam mattress, and more...
...and I just saved (the first page of) this thread to here - to archiveDOTorg, so if the picture host goes down, the images aren't lost, as has happened with other fuel pump threads. Good idea for well-illustrated howto's.
Any ideas? Having found this thread, I'm thinking it's beyond me. Seems well beyond me n my toolbox if a new fuel pump is needed. Seems worth taking to another mechanic. I don't know what to look for under the hood.
I could try to find someone (in/near San Francisco/Oakland) who'll do/help with cutting a hole in the floor... but while mine is a cargo van, the floor is covered with plywood, rubber and foam mattress, and more...
...and I just saved (the first page of) this thread to here - to archiveDOTorg, so if the picture host goes down, the images aren't lost, as has happened with other fuel pump threads. Good idea for well-illustrated howto's.
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I've done the hole-in-the-floor method.
I used a 4 1/2" angle grinder and was
throwing sparks directly down onto the tank.
I didn't like it and don't recommend it.
Barely missed the fuel lines and wiring.
Some vans have a steel plate on top of the tank that
must also be cut through, though my Gen 1 didn't.
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Thanks. I don't think I'll be going that route - for those reasons plus beyond me, etc.
Any thoughts on whether something short of a new pump might fix the problem? Or does the loss of pressure overnight mean it's definitely needed?
Any thoughts on whether something short of a new pump might fix the problem? Or does the loss of pressure overnight mean it's definitely needed?
DAMN. I would do it myself as well, with a mostly empty fuel tank it's quite easy to drop it down to replace it with just a few basic tools. Though a loss of pressure could be due to a leaking injector, regulator, etc as well. I would probably look at fuel trims first and see if anything shows a possible leak there. Also, after it's been sitting a few days, prime the system a few times before trying to start. Any other running issues?
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Thanks! Ok, I'm going to pick it up now to avoid storage fee. (They say) I owe them $200 for the diagnostic - which now I'm thinking perhaps I should argue against - at least unless they've ruled out a leaking injector, regulator etc, which they didn't indicate they had done. I have a lot to learn - I don't know what fuel trims are or how I would prime the system. By pumping or flooring the accelerator at startup? Tank is 2/3 full at the moment, as I recall. Other than this, she's been running well - no major issues - (minor stuff - main cigarette lighter outlet doesn't work, some dash lights don't work, AC knob acts up, radio knobs were stolen, had to replace the flasher twice, because I put in LED bulbs, and then the first replacement didn't last.)
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I'd tell them that if they charge you $200 for the diagnostic,
they'll permanently lose you as a customer.
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I picked it up and I haven’t been having fuel start problems since the “diagnostic”, and I noticed that the diagnostic said unable to replicate starting problem. On the other hand it also said ignition is arcing and sparking, and they quoted a gobsmacking $1500 for what I realized is a basic-not--complete, recommended tune-up. (plugs, distributor cnr, coil), which it needs. Plus the 1100. So instead I looked around and found a local place with a good reputation and I felt good with and I’m just getting a comprehensive tuneup, no fuel nothing.🤞🤞Hoping there was just some dirt in the fuel line that worked itself out. And adding a bottle of fuel system cleaner -could help!
Haven’t argued with Firestone about the diagnostic or that they noted the coolant was very low but didn’t fill it even though I had paid for a car care package. And Huckleberry, I’m thinking I’m pretty dumb if I ever make myself a customer there again?
Haven’t argued with Firestone about the diagnostic or that they noted the coolant was very low but didn’t fill it even though I had paid for a car care package. And Huckleberry, I’m thinking I’m pretty dumb if I ever make myself a customer there again?
Different set of years had different fuel pressure requirements.
Probably the cheap import model made the pump work with the first set of motor intake versions, which are very low.
The last two set of intake systems have a very high pressure requirement in order to have enough pressure on the injectors to squirt gas into the combustion camber.
The cheap manufacture probably never revised the specks after the first version since the pump worked fine till the new version came to be used.
Probably the cheap import model made the pump work with the first set of motor intake versions, which are very low.
The last two set of intake systems have a very high pressure requirement in order to have enough pressure on the injectors to squirt gas into the combustion camber.
The cheap manufacture probably never revised the specks after the first version since the pump worked fine till the new version came to be used.
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I’d love to know when the fuel pressure requirements changed. (And I’m asking because I don’t know how to find out.)
Yeah, makes sense. This comment supports what you said and that people using OEM parts need to make sure they are using the upgraded part if needed! :
Also I wonder if folks tried using a fuel system cleaner before doing this big job, and if it seemed to make a difference.
Here is the fuel pressure info from one our site mentors:
sites.google.com
If you guys and galls haven't read this whole thing. Do it. There is a Ton of information in it.
I go back to a number of times to remember things.
Astro-Safari-Info - Fuel System
What does a 'fuel/fueling system' do? It injects fuel into the air that is being sucked into the engine. Even though the carburetor is virtually non-existent anymore in the Astro/Safari world, I'm going to include it here. It's the entire system of a tank(to hold the fuel), pump(to create flow),
sites.google.com
If you guys and galls haven't read this whole thing. Do it. There is a Ton of information in it.
I go back to a number of times to remember things.
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So it’s been six months and I should’ve followed up then, but anyway, just wanted to say that this worked! The shop I went to broke the engine cover(crack from by the radio on button to the floor), and didn’t say anything until I noticed, but far more importantly, she has been starting and running OK since then (‘till yesterday-but that’s for another thread-she needs a coolant flush, and there are lots of threads on that) I let it slide for $20 and hopefully some goodwill (ever the optimist)
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