[dcsleeper]

It used to be a thing to double-check that the old o-ring was still on the filter and not stuck to the engine before you installed the new one.

The wiring to the MAF is likely suspect. It sits where it gets a LOT of heat and can get brittle and break if handled. Also, double-check that the ground to the rear thermostat stud is properly connected and the wire hasn't broken inside the tape or insulation - that happens all the time. I've had to fix 2 - one on my '02 and one on my '05. That ground handles a lot of the sensors that would seriously affect engine running.

That's Gold right there!!

thu.gif.3cd4ab0da4d0bca335eee3e3d9e4487b

• dcsleeper
• Jun 13, 2020

thu.gif.3cd4ab0da4d0bca335eee3e3d9e4487b

• dcsleeper
• Jun 13, 2020

 

[Star Stuff]

Well that was fun. In the pouring rain first thing this morning, I got that o-ring outta there, so that's all good. *Given the grief that this causes to the uninitiated, I respectfully suggest that the first post be edited to include looking out for the o-ring that might be stuck on the engine, and that it must be removed.

I started the engine, and no leaks of course, but that roughness at higher RPMs was still present. I shut it off, unclipped and re-connected the two plugs on the MAF, and checked that all the plugs on the computer were tight. No change. Again, just stepping on the gas pedal lightly to bring the RPMs up a tiny bit sounds & feels normal, but when I more like "stomp on it" so to speak, it becomes rough and won't climb in RPMs like it should. The air smelled rich with fuel when I stepped out of the van.

Prior to all this, besides giving the entire engine compartment a thorough clean - including taking off the plastic cowlings below the wipers - the only other thing I did the other day was remove the top of the fuse box and unbolt it from the firewall in order to get that battery tray out.

I'm stumped.

 

[Mmusicman]

Help please! I just went through this process removing the lines during an oil change, and now the engine is running like crap

It's amazing how your story went from this (above)... to this... (below)

* The only other thing I did was put in a new air filter just before the oil change
* another thing I did (yesterday): I took out the battery
* I had to un-clip the computer, and it had to be jostled around a bit
* I just vacuumed out some grit & debris that was in there (MAF sensor)
* Prior to all this, besides giving the entire engine compartment a thorough clean
* taking off the plastic cowlings below the wipers
* the only other thing I did the other day was remove the top of the fuse box and unbolt it from the firewall

WELL I'd say you did a LOT more than just an oil delete!

Clearly something you touched (or washed) is likely causing the problem!
Maybe the MAF got messed up when you "vacuumed" it?

I would look at EVERYTHING you've touched!
Maybe something damaged, maybe something unplugged.
But I'm pretty sure it's NOT from the oil cooler delete.

 

[Star Stuff]

Clearly something you touched (or washed) is likely causing the problem!
Maybe the MAF got messed up when you "vacuumed" it?

Yes, while I know that correlation is not causation, the rough running did start after the oil line removal, along with everything else that I had done in the 2-3 days prior. I didn't "wash" anything, just cleaned with rags. When I vacuumed, it was only the air filter box, nothing past that.

I would look at EVERYTHING you've touched!
Maybe something damaged, maybe something unplugged.
But I'm pretty sure it's NOT from the oil cooler delete.

Right, I too don't think that it's related to the oil line thing at all, but this is perplexing.

 

[Star Stuff]

I just took it up to the corner garage for a diagnosis, and the mechanic went over it and cleaned out the MAF. It is certainly better, but still a little sluggish to climb to the higher RPMs, so I guess I should check the plugs, and if they're OK, a new MAF?

 

[dcsleeper]

You might've screwed up the MAF, but I'm not sold on that.
Then aagin new MAFs are like $30-$40 bux

 

[tonydobbs]

I think they're a bit more than that... If memory serves I paid over $100.

 

[sixsix]

"I call him free who is led solely by reason" Baruch Spinoza

Really...?

I counter with:
"He returneth leading many forces with insanity" Mike Karwath

 

[osopolar]

Thanks for the how-to .. I just logged in to post asking for tips on replacing the oil cooler lines .. now im going to save ordering the parts and do the delete. Leak has been getting worse and its making a mess

Is it safe to assume the procedure is same for all years? Ive got a 2003.

 

[Sailing_Faith]

Thanks for the how-to .. I just logged in to post asking for tips on replacing the oil cooler lines .. now im going to save ordering the parts and do the delete. Leak has been getting worse and its making a mess

Is it safe to assume the procedure is same for all years? Ive got a 2003.

Yup, same for all years. There was some suspicion that the oil filter pipe was shorter on 1997 vans, but I have now done oil cooler deletes on two of them with no problem. :banana:

 

[Doe_nStein]

I am new here and realize this is an old thread. BUT!! On my other car I have relocated the oil filter and added an external stacked plate oil cooler if anyone is interested in how I did it. I will probably be doing this mod to the van as well in the future.

 

[Superdave168]

I was thinking to replace the oil cooler line in my 98 Safari. The parts alone will cost over a hundred bucks CAD. When I was looking for an easy way to do it I found this post. I thought to myself that the van is 23 years old with over 376,000 km on the clock why spend money on new parts and I knew the problem will be back again in no time just like the previous two replacements I had. When it was time to change the oil (once a year because I only managed to drive 3,000 km in town in a year with her) I took out the oil cooler line as well. No problems whatsoever after the line is gone. I used the same metal pipe to plug the rad. Just cut about three inches in length and flatten the end of the pipe and rolled it up.

Great post and now I don't have to deal with that oily mess any more. It has haunted me for twenty years. 👍

 

[98Safari]

After replacement of the radiator I decided to delete the oil cooler lines on my 98 Safari . Because we couldn't find the proper adapter my mechanic came up with this idea until we find the correct adapter.

 

[Sailing_Faith]

Read the thread, no adapter needed.

 

[Leeann_93]

Yeah, that. Your mechanic failed at reading comprehension.

 

[AstroWill]

Mechanic did not understand the assignment.

 

[Mmusicman]

YEP! Same for me!
My "threaded insert" moved from the oil-cooler adapter directly into the block.
It was super easy.
But I know ALL this was posted already... (see first post on this thread..lol)

Because we couldn't find the proper adapter my mechanic came up with this idea until we find the correct adapter.

• The piece you need is still in the old adapter (see photo above)
• Maybe your mechanic just missed it... (probably didn't know it un-threads)
• See 1st post page 1 of this thread

 

[98Safari]

Thnx all!

 

[Big Dan]

Hi all,
Sorry to again revive an old thread...
I understand that when deleting the oil cooler adapter from the engine block, you transfer the filter nipple from the adapter back to the engine block,
simple and easy but my question is, is there still a oil bypass valve in there, on the engine block ?
I just want to be sure and buy what's needed before getting my hands dirty...
Thanks in advance,
Dan

 

[aquazen]

Hi all,
Sorry to again revive an old thread...
I understand that when deleting the oil cooler adapter from the engine block, you transfer the filter nipple from the adapter back to the engine block,
simple and easy but my question is, is there still a oil bypass valve in there, on the engine block ?
I just want to be sure and buy what's needed before getting my hands dirty...
Thanks in advance,
Dan

I did this mod over the weekend, and I did not see a bypass valve. I wasn't really looking for one though.