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2003 Safari AWD
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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
This is the replacement door. The blue circle shows the te spring detent arm was already cut off this door for some reason. Previously I showed the "rust free" bottom of the door. It turns out, there was a slight bit of paint bubble in the red circle, so I wire wheeled the entire door bottom for fresh sealant and paint.

So, I wondered how the paint bubble was starting. Looking inside both doors shows that the rust is not happening from the inside as I expected. The inside was perfect all the way down into the seam as far as I could tell. I am convinced the rust starts on the exterior lip of that door skin. On this door, there is a small wrinkle in the skin where it crimps (I filled that with sealant). My other door is too far gone to see if it had the same wrinkle.


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All the door parts out
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Replacement door has the spring detent arm welded in, and a couple reinforcement welds to try and prevent any future cracking

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I can take a better pic if needed..

Is this a stock/OEM style wheel? I have three that look great and one that is really corroded.

Are these clear coated aluminum? I'm trying to decide how I will try and polish up the corroded one.

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It looks like a stock wheel, but it's really hard to tell. And my center caps have the plastic nut covers - older 5-lug wheels have the solid center cap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Going to have to get real creative on the front. The front body mounts aren't really mounted any more. Well, I suppose they are, but the body is no longer mounted to the body mounts (blue circles).

What is the pipe in the red circle? Is this the trans cooler?

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
It's a shame the radiator supports aren't available anymore. The googles are tantalizing but they all go to discontinued parts :confused:
Nothing in my area will be any better at the junk yards and they don't seem to allow much in the way of cutting tools anyway. Looks like will have to try and replace the bottom of it.

Did some work on the rear... lost a few pounds and gained some MPG!

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Check out the gap between the oil pan and front shafts
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So, I took a good look at the motor mounts. Something seems to be missing o_O
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Got the axle out. Going to have to cut some bolts then the exhaust is next then the fuel tank. I am expecting to put a G80 Eaton MLocker in it. I thought those were LSDs, didn't realize they were legit lockers! I have no plans to work under the junk yard cars in the mud here so will look for something on Ebay.
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Motor mounts aren’t missing anything. There’s three mounting bolts; one on top in the center. Three rivets holding the two halves of the mount together. Two up top on each side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I cleaned up all the oil to track down all the leaks. The engine has not been started and have this drip.
Would the rear main seal leak without the engine running?

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
No hammer and punch for this. Seems like I should try the proper tool.

The Honda version of the J-39765 is a much better buy but still an annoying cost for something like this.

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I use a hammer and a sacrificial screwdriver (has a notch in the tip). Never used the correct tool...
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Tabs are just bending down into the tank. Thinking a more even distribution and long breaker bar?

Just trying to avoid having to find another tank when I rip the mounting ring loose 😪
 

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I spray the hell out of the lockring with PB Blaster, then just lightly tap-tap on each one, roundy-roundy. I don't try to make anything move at first, mostly just help the PB get in there and shake stuff loose. It takes a while but it does work.

The notch keeps the screwdriver from slipping. Keep it as horizontal as possible. Oh - and there's a flat o-ring under, which you will need to replace.
 
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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
I'll try again. It has some pb sitting in there today and had some progress with a pick scraping out some of the crust.

I'll hit it again tomorrow while removing the exhaust and see if there is some improvement.
 

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After PB Blaster or Kroil; patience and perseverance, instead of brute force, should be your friend.
As Leeann said keep tapping it occasionally to break the crusty stuff loose.
 

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Taking a step back to those motor mounts. There is nothing missing but the rubber has definitely seen better days. Also plan on the transmission mount.

I am interested in those barn doors.
Send me a message with some pics when you get a chance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Sorry to say I no longer have the barn doors.

Thanks for tip on the mounts. After birdshakes post I did some more learnen on them and now have the poly inserts ordered. I also saw some talk of adding spacers to the bottom of the mounts but didn't catch on as to why.

Current pic...
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No Worries on the doors.
You definitely want to get all that rust taken care of. Wire brush the heavy stuff. Then rust encapsulator followed by bed liner. You cab seal the inside of those frame tubes with frame sealer. How do the inner rockers look?

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