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2003 Safari AWD
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Discussion Starter · #81 ·
This area above the springs on the frame needs some repair.

Is the only function for this bump/reinforced section for the bump stops from the rear axle?

Just needing to figure out the level of repair for the rust holes on this side.


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Discussion Starter · #87 ·
On top of my van you see the three plastic hole plugs right down the center.

I haven't seen these on other vans when looking at roof rack videos.

Anyone know what those were for?

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Discussion Starter · #89 ·
Need to get new stud in and speed sensor so I worked on enlarging this opening.

Sensor will fit in but still not able to get the stud in. Wasn't wanting to deal with removing hubs yet 😕

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1998 LS AWD Forest Green metallic
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On top of my van you see the three plastic hole plugs right down the center.

I haven't seen these on other vans when looking at roof rack videos.

Anyone know what those were for?

View attachment 285582
Just a guess, but the most common reason is from radio antenna installations, either commercial or ham radio. they are usually done in the center, when permanently mounted.
There might be some clues if you stat looking around the wiring harness, and find some slightly larger than normal dead ended wires or other odd wires around the battery area. Another clue might be unexplained screw holes in rigid mounting surfaces near the driver side of the instrument panel.
Rod J
Issaquah, WA
 

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2000 Lifted 4x4 Astro 92 V8-350 Shorty
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Rod is correct.. those are typically hole plugs for radio antennas (commercial or ham)
The ones I do are typically 3/4" holes (rubber plugs).. could be 3/8" (plastic snaps) as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #93 ·
I do have a mystery wire under the van that was cut. Maybe from the dash to under the van back up into the driver side panel in the rear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #94 · (Edited)
I know people have posted about how hard the ball joint rivets are to remove. I took some pics and video of my process. The first rivet took about 15 min and the second one was a 5 min process.

1. Cut off the head
2. Use the cut off wheel to smooth over the top and make a shallow divet that makes a depression in the center of the rivet.
3. Use a center punch in the.... center of the rivet
4. Use a 5/16 drill bit and drill down about 3/8" (about the thickness of the ball joint mount)
5. Tap it out with a punch

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Common Sense + Critical Thinking
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WTF Jim, why does that look brand spanking new? LOL Relocating the joint?

It's those bottom ones that are a PITA. Oh and where is your video?
 

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Discussion Starter · #96 ·
Yeah... that is a new control arm and the rivet I am taking out is where the brake hose mounts to.

I hope I don't have to remove a lower one!

I'll get the video over to you tube so I can post it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #97 ·
Worked on the wheel stud again. I ended up rounding off the tip a bit more and removed a bit on the head. In this pic, you can see the opening I cut in the brake shield and marked the bolt in black where I removed some material
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Then pulled the stud in

 

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Discussion Starter · #99 ·
Big day yesterday! Put it down on all 4 wheels, measured for rear sway bar link, then back up it went for Trans cooler lines, engine oil, power steering flush, fill and filter.
Time for first start soon to check for fuel/oil/water leaks then torquing everything down.

The rear is about 3" higher than the front. I'll wait for some drive time to see where it settles at. I think I have it centered well enough, and it looks like I did OK for opening the arch for bigger tires.
I like those stock wheels - going to become Graphite Black, I think.

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