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Jims 03 Safari AWD

14158 Views 153 Replies 21 Participants Last post by  NoQuarter
Took a 6 hour road trip to pick up this 2003 AWD Safari with 123k miles.
This trip I got 16.8MPG and afterwards I checked the tire pressures, and they were about 20PSI!

I filled the tires properly and took another 6 hour trip today and netted 17.6 MPG! Pretty happy with that.

After the drive home without incident, we started the cleaning process and general maintenance.

Passenger side headlight was dim and both corner lights were out. Drained the water out of the light housing, dried out the bulb socket, replaced both corner bulbs now all the lights work and the headlight works properly. The water was causing a current draw (I think) thus dimming the headlight bulb.

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The lower body is all rusted out and the plan is to cut them out and weld in replacement panels
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The engine bay was nice and clean with no evidence of oil stains anywhere
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Had a pleasant surprise when I checked the coolant. The cap is pretty skanky, but the coolant looks fresh
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Same with the brake fluid. The reservoir looks like it has some left over smudge, but the fluid looks fresh.
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I had some drips from the rear diff and finally got a good look under there. The pinion seal is leaking, and the oil is slinging all over. Took it on another road trip today despite the leak and it got.... interesting. I now have oil mist all over the rear doors it got so bad. Didn't smell too good with the oil on the exhaust pipe.
Turns out... someone left a hose attached to the fill hole so they could keep the oil topped off :eek:
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I'm going to get it all cleaned up and replace 7, 18, and 19. Clean out the inside of the diff, inspect it and take it from there.
I will also order new drain and fill plugs once I figure out where to find those.

edit: it seems there are no drain plugs on these, but the fill plug I found at AutoZone thanks to @AstroWill Linky!!

Any tips/advice for this project is appreciated :cool:

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Differential for 2003 GMC Safari | OEM GM Parts (gmpartsoutlet.net)
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Electric is all that is left. Not going to stow the winch cable like this. I will remove the hook and store inside.
The welding really tightend up the fit so I just went with it and forced it on scraping the pain off of the shackle mounts. Then used the frame/leverage to pry out the sides a bit and got a better fit.
Re-paint another day.

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Very Nice !!!:love:
And very jealous of your abilities!
Thanks Rod. This really stretched my time commitment, abilities, and patience to see it through.
As of tonight, it is on the road!

To-do list:
  • Get the new light units that go under the headlights
  • Determine where/how to mount the winch controller
  • Power the winch
  • Make new radiator support brace for the hood latch/ bottom grill screw hole
  • Install new horns
  • Install new accessories/lights control panel on the dash
  • Power the lights in the bumper
  • Replace the new driver side front fender with the original after I repair the rust on it. The aftermarket one is shite so I will repair and use the original
  • Re-design the under-hood power panel
  • Make/install/seal roof-rack mounts
  • Paint
  • Rear custom bumper
  • Roof Rack
  • ?


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I was wondering on how much weight is being added with the winch and the bumper compare to stock?
Electric is all that is left. Not going to stow the winch cable like this. I will remove the hook and store inside.
The welding really tightend up the fit so I just went with it and forced it on scraping the pain off of the shackle mounts. Then used the frame/leverage to pry out the sides a bit and got a better fit.
Re-paint another day.

View attachment 287406

View attachment 287407
Hey I saw this on Matt's Offroad Recovery Youtube channel Yankum rope


The grooves allow you to store the loop and it won't get damaged while drive since it is recessed.
I love the bumper! I wish I had the space, time, skill to do that.
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Hey I saw this on Matt's Offroad Recovery Youtube channel Yankum rope


The grooves allow you to store the loop and it won't get damaged while drive since it is recessed.
I like it. Thanks!
Back to more electric...

The winch still is not powered, the relays/etc. are still on a plywood board, the fan controller has a sandwich bag protecting it, and the stock fuse box is held in place with a bungy cord.
With none of that complete, I am starting new electrical stuff!

  • Remote control door locks (and maybe turning on outside lights via the remote in the dark/cold winter nights)
  • Remove the current, really good after-market Sony head unit (top right corner) and putting in a double-din Android/Amp unit (bottom-left)
  • TPMS monitoring system
  • OBD/Torque diagnostics
  • Backup camera
  • Front camera
  • Steering wheel controls for phone/music/etc
  • Lighting control panel (lights in the front/rear bumpers, etc)
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Ohh... and I took it in to a shop to pressure test the coolant system to find the leak in the water pump that I installed :(
.. and to replace a fitting (that I f&cked up) in the power-steering system that caused it to fail the one-time my wife drove it in a giant storm, at night, and she still got it back home with no assisted brakes nor steering, and simply said "that was pretty difficult"! 🥰

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After-market Remote Door Locks

I have the unit below installed and working.
There are 4 required connections: power/ground, lock, unlock
Optional connections include:
- rear door/hatch only ( or use it for the driver door only circuit)
- Connections to lights if you want lights to flash when locking/unlocking or finding. probably could do horn also.

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The 2 white wires at #1 are lock/unlock configured to apply +12 voltage. (The BCM applies +12 to the door lock relay)
#2 are 3 wires that will go to power
#3 is ground (and an optional trunk only)
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Here it is ready to install. You can see the LED that flashes when locked, the antenna, power/ground, and the 2 white lock/unlock connections. The 2 white wires will connect to the convenience center under the dash near the drivers feet (There is a factory connection there just for this purpose).
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!! Important update !!

Way back in post #112, I discussed having the rear shocks "upside down". It was convenient at the time because these new shocks have a much larger diameter so would not fit in the factory mount. At the time, i didn't think it mattered, but it does for this design. These shocks must be installed in the correct orientation for the oil/valves,etc to work properly.

After being able to use the van, I could not get it stop being so bouncy and I just attributed it to too heavy springs and not enough weight (still true but not the root cause). Vast improvement after flipping them over so they can work properly!

-Jim
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Everything from post #148 is working. Seems to be a pretty good kit.

This is the Tire pressure system - accurate enough. I installed them and got a warning, sure enough, pressure was low.
You can also see the AuxBeam panel. Only thing connected so far is the lights in the front bumper.

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Rear camera is nice and clear.
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More info on your Radio please. Do you have a link? I have a good bluetooth, XM radio but I want a touchscreen and better screen for my rear camera
More info on your Radio please. Do you have a link? I have a good bluetooth, XM radio but I want a touchscreen and better screen for my rear camera
[New] ATOTO A6 PF Android... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B3T59TX?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
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