Knocks in the engine

ptysiek

Discussion Starter · #2 · 15 d ago (Edited)

ptysiek said:
I deal with one problem, then another. There was knocking in the engine. I flushed the engine, new filter, oil, no change. I listened with a stethoscope and it sounded like the knocking was coming from cylinder 4. I removed the cover from the second row, the tappets are ok, the problem is oil lubrication. The problem appeared after replacing the intake gaskets. Certainly nothing went in. I drained too little fluid and poured some into the engine. Changed oil and filter 3 times. I checked the flex plate, it's not that. these knocks come from the oil pump, because it doesn't look like bearing knocking to me, especially since sometimes the knocking disappears.
[/CYTAT]I'll try to post a video later because I can't

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ptysiek

Discussion Starter · #3 · 15 d ago

ptysiek said:
[/CYTAT][/CYTAT]

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ptysiek

Discussion Starter · #4 · 15 d ago (Edited)

sorry, I messed up a bit with these posts, I can't delete them because I tried to paste the recording. Maybe my friend will be able to post it

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MHM

· #5 · 15 d ago

I can't attach a file (*.mp4). I am sharing it via my OneDrive.

https://1drv.ms/v/s!Asss1vQIdeiDhIYUh4KZ7qhTjcIyDA?e=eNvVUr

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MechBob

· #6 · 15 d ago

Sure sounds like a collapsed lifter to me.

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Another old trick my tech school teacher buddy showed us when you have suspected collapsed lifters or a high mileage gunked up engine was to drain the oil, add 1 gallon of kerosene (or diesel fuel) to crankcase, restart the engine and let run for a minute. Works better if the engine is warm to start with.
Do not over rev the engine or drive the vehicle as the thinner lubricant is just that - a thinner lubricant.
Is cleans sludge and contaminants from the moving parts and restores function to stuck moving parts.
It sounds bizarre, but it worked every time I tried it.
If its really gunked up, you run for a minute, shut off engine, let sit overnight, restart and let run for a minute the next day, and then drain. You'll be amazed at what comes out.
Then you replace the filter, refill with your normal oil and you're good to go.

I'm sure some will puke over the idea and some will dog it, but it works and I have never had a problem using it.
Just giving you a proven way to try to solve your problem easily.

If you really want to be eco friendly, filter what you drain out and put it in your home oil heater tank so you don't waste it.

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Mmusicman

· #8 · 15 d ago (Edited)

Does your knock sound as bad as mine did?
My tick would start up bad, then would shortly go away...

ehbrown1 said:
Another old trick my tech school teacher buddy showed us when you have suspected collapsed lifters or a high mileage gunked up engine was to drain the oil, add 1 gallon of kerosene (or diesel fuel) to crankcase, restart the engine and let run for a minute. Works better if the engine is warm to start with...

It sounds bizarre, but it worked every time I tried it...

I'm sure some will puke over the idea and some will dog it, but it works and I have never had a problem using it...

Actually, the OIL FLUSH product I used for mine contains Kerosene.
AND YES THIS TRICK DOES WORK!

WORD OF CAUTION: It does loosen internal gunk!

This can actually be a concern if the loosened gunk blocks oil passages like it may have done with mine. For me, it actually took several attempts. I did several flushes and changed numerous filters.. also did the ATF trick. In the end.. I have completely resolved my troubles.. but not without a challenge.

If you run the straight Kerosene trick.. be sure to follow Ed's suggestions.
My FLUSH product came with 5 minute directions.. but still serious chemical wash.

My stubborn "tick" had become a serious challenge...
READ HOW I FIXED IT HERE:

SERIOUS ENGINE LIFTER TICK

NEW EXPERIENCE FOR ME: I cut open my 1st oil filter! Well actually 3 of them! Back story: In addition to a recent blown head-gasket (which has since been "resolved").. a few months back I developed the somewhat common "lifter tick" in the morning on first start up. I've been pretty good...

www.astrosafari.com

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MechBob

· #9 · 15 d ago

ehbrown1 said:
Another old trick my tech school teacher buddy showed us when you have suspected collapsed lifters or a high mileage gunked up engine was to drain the oil, add 1 gallon of kerosene (or diesel fuel) to crankcase, restart the engine and let run for a minute. Works better if the engine is warm to start with.
Do not over rev the engine or drive the vehicle as the thinner lubricant is just that - a thinner lubricant.
Is cleans sludge and contaminants from the moving parts and restores function to stuck moving parts.
It sounds bizarre, but it worked every time I tried it.
If its really gunked up, you run for a minute, shut off engine, let sit overnight, restart and let run for a minute the next day, and then drain. You'll be amazed at what comes out.
Then you replace the filter, refill with your normal oil and you're good to go.

I'm sure some will puke over the idea and some will dog it, but it works and I have never had a problem using it.
Just giving you a proven way to try to solve your problem easily.

If you really want to be eco friendly, filter what you drain out and put it in your home oil heater tank so you don't waste it.

That used to be viable, and was widely done, but, the problem now is diesel and kero are nothing like "the old days", much if not all the harsh chemicals are not in today's .
I have successfully used BG Quick Clean, and there are other professional flushes out there.

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ptysiek

Discussion Starter · #10 · 15 d ago (Edited)

Mmuzyk said:
Czy twoje pukanie brzmi tak źle jak moje?
Kleszcz zaczynał źle, a potem szybko znikał...

Właściwie produkt OIL FLUSH, którego użyłem do mojego, zawiera naftę.
I TAK TA SZTUKA DZIAŁA!

OSTRZEŻENIE: Rozluźnia wewnętrzną mazię!

Może to faktycznie stanowić problem, jeśli poluzowana maź zablokuje kanały olejowe, tak jak to mogło zrobić z moim. W moim przypadku wymagało to kilku prób. Zrobiłem kilka płukanek i wymieniłem wiele filtrów.. Zrobiłem też sztuczkę z ATF. W końcu… całkowicie rozwiązałem swoje problemy… ale nie bez wyzwań.

Jeśli wykonasz prostą sztuczkę z naftą… pamiętaj, aby postępować zgodnie z sugestiami Eda.
Mój produkt FLUSH przyszedł z 5-minutowymi wskazówkami… ale nadal poważnym praniem chemicznym.

Mój uparty „tykacz” stał się poważnym wyzwaniem…
PRZECZYTAJ JAK TO NAPRAWIŁEM TUTAJ:

SERIOUS ENGINE LIFTER TICK

NEW EXPERIENCE FOR ME: I cut open my 1st oil filter! Well actually 3 of them! Back story: In addition to a recent blown head-gasket (which has since been "resolved").. a few months back I developed the somewhat common "lifter tick" in the morning on first start up. I've been pretty good...

www.astrosafari.com

[/CYTA
I read your post and I think I'll take a shortcut. I'll pour atf, but I don't know if the gallon will not be a bit low, because I always pour 4.5 liters of oil, or about 1.18 gallons. idle speed about 600 rpm. Yours are probably higher. And mine seems to be tapping more gently. The only thing that worries me is that after warming up, it quietens down a bit, but the knocking does not disappear. Yesterday I drove over 200 miles and it knocks all the time. you can't hear the drive only during the stop. From Tuesday I will start washing the engine, because if I have ATF, because I was supposed to replace the solenoid valves in the trans, the last oil filter went a week ago. You need to make a supply of filters and oil.

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ptysiek

Discussion Starter · #11 · 15 d ago

I'm sorry that I mix Polish with English, but old age and nerves. I promise improvement

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Mmusicman

· #12 · 15 d ago

ptysiek said:
I read your post and I think I'll take a shortcut. I'll pour atf, but I don't know if the gallon will not be a bit low, because I always pour 4.5 liters of oil

If you don't understand what you are doing.. then I recommend you use actual products made for this purpose with actual instructions. The ATF trick is NOT to be driven on.. it is merely idled for a period of time, then drain and change filter. 1 gallon (4 quarts) is no different than running your motor 1 quart low (which is still within the acceptable lower limit). I also did this AFTER a clean flush... although some have used it as an unconventional substitute.

Again, I don't really recommend this for you.. it's more of an unconventional method I use that worked for me.
I don't always play by the rules.
There are plenty of products out there you can add to your oil for lifter tick.

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ptysiek

Discussion Starter · #13 · 15 d ago (Edited)

Mmusicman said:
If you don't understand what you are doing.. then I recommend you use actual products made for this purpose with actual instructions. The ATF trick is NOT to be driven on.. it is merely idled for a period of time, then drain and change filter. 1 gallon (4 quarts) is no different than running your motor 1 quart low (which is still within the acceptable lower limit). I also did this AFTER a clean flush... although some have used it as an unconventional substitute.

Again, I don't really recommend this for you.. it's more of an unconventional method I use that worked for me.
I don't always play by the rules.
There are plenty of products out there you can add to your oil for lifter tick.

I will definitely not drive on atf. Immediately after replacing the intake gaskets, I changed the oil and filter. Later, I added the flushing agent, it was on for 10 minutes, according to the instructions, I dropped the oil, a new filter and oil. came 10 min and again new filter and oil. no improvement I will advise my colleagues what rinse aid can be bought in Poland, maybe more aggressive, branded

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S

SainT

· #14 · 12 d ago

ehbrown1 said:
add 1 gallon of kerosene (or diesel fuel) to crankcase, restart the engine and let run for a minute.

That suggestion scares me
Its highly dangerous for engine bushings and actually not needed cause of modern additives for oil that u can easily buy for cleaning oil passages and etc.
But even with additives (or special washing oil) its dangerous for engine to do so - big chunks of debris can ruin bushings
The best way to safe clean engine is to use quality oil and change them frequent
The best way to clean the lifters is to disassemble them and wash by hands
U can use strong solvents and not damaging anything
To take away intake plenum and take off lifters is much cheaper than rebuild entire engine
Lifters itself are dead end to oil and u can't clean them by additives inside the engine cause of tiny amount of cleaning solvent may go inside lifters or not go at all due to blocked valve into lifter

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SainT

· #15 · 12 d ago

ptysiek said:
There was knocking in the engine.

Have u done any repairs with rockers or pushrods before ?
If so
Into old engines rockers nuts should be adjusted as it like in classic SBC 3/4 to full turn after rocker touches pushrod
Plenty of teaching vids on youtube
As far as I know LS style non adjustable rockers (with needle bearings) came after 2000

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ehbrown1

· #16 · 12 d ago

I'm just offering a suggestion that many have used in the past, including myself. The reason people used it and still use it is because it works.
Yes, there are many products designed to do the same thing. All of them are designed to remove junk built up inside your engine. Some are good, some not so good.
If a solvent can remove this stuff, it doesn't flake off big chunks, it erodes it down until little is left as any solvent would.
That in turn will drain back into the crankcase and be caught in the filter before it ever has the chance to make it to a bearing.

I have used modern flushes, but the old version works better for me.
Just because they are newer does not mean they work any better then the older methods.
Plus if an engine is REALLY gunked up, no solvent is going to get it clean. Ain't gonna happen.
If someone feels uncomfortable using tactics and tricks of others, then I certainly don't want anyone to do something they feel unsure about.

Said it before, it's YOUR vehicle and you do whatever you want to it.

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MechBob

· #17 · 12 d ago

ehbrown1 said:
I'm just offering a suggestion that many have used in the past, including myself. The reason people used it and still use it is because it works.
Yes, there are many products designed to do the same thing. All of them are designed to remove junk built up inside your engine. Some are good, some not so good.
If a solvent can remove this stuff, it doesn't flake off big chunks, it erodes it down until little is left as any solvent would.
That in turn will drain back into the crankcase and be caught in the filter before it ever has the chance to make it to a bearing.

I have used modern flushes, but the old version works better for me.
Just because they are newer does not mean they work any better then the older methods.
Plus if an engine is REALLY gunked up, no solvent is going to get it clean. Ain't gonna happen.
If someone feels uncomfortable using tactics and tricks of others, then I certainly don't want anyone to do something they feel unsure about.

Said it before, it's YOUR vehicle and you do whatever you want to it.

Yes,no and maybe,LOL. A full solvent "wash" can knock large stuff loose, move it around, which is why it is never recommended for a gunked up engine. No, it will not push "big chunks" into the bushings(bearings, unless you don't have a filter!! SO not sure where he came up with that. But, for a mild cleaning, and lifer problems, like we said a flush is fine, although I prefer a dedicated professional cleaner. ATF added to the motor oil used to be a good solvent to clean lifters,BUT, like most things, ATF's have changed, no longer have the harsh "varnish" removers. But, that is why it lasts o much longer.
Anyway, if you ever worked in a dealer, or bigger shop, you would know about the heated flush machines especially for gunked up engines, they became a "essential tool, at ford and toyota dealers, because of their v6 mini vans building up so much gunk on the rear cylinder heads, oil would not flow back to the pan, causing them to burn oil and smoke. Yes, you cannot have a valve train totally immersed in oil. These machines are great, you remove the filter, hook up the hose adapter, add the solvent, turn on the heater to preheat, then flip the switch and let it sit and run for a few hours. Tey work awesome.
And,BTY, the gunk on the rear heads was not from, "cheap" oil, but from just too much under hood heat in that area.
BTY, for all you carb guys, yes, atf added to the fuel still does help with sticking throttle shafts, and premature wear.
BTY, what I have seen a lot of, over many years, is people doing the "home flush" on a really gunked up engine, it plugs up the oil pump screen. It was the same with transmission flushes, with a machine, the proper way is to flush with the machine and cleaner, fill with fluid, run, THEN remove pan and replace the filter, which dealers and quick lubes got away from, unfortunately.

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Mmusicman

· #18 · 12 d ago

I had suddenly developed SERIOUS ENGINE TICK (see video above).
I was NOT about to just "live with it" and knew I needed a serious oil FLUSH.
I also knew their could be potential risks loosening gunk.. but I was willing to take that chance.

In my case, I was unaware of the home remedy solutions, nor was I about to take my engine apart.

I found a product by "Motor-Medic" called "Motor Flush"
Motor-Flush

It contains a proprietary blend of chemicals that include Diesel Fuel and Kerosene.
I knew this was a serious flushing product.. it's designed for a 5 minute flush at idle only.
It also comes in 1 quart vs an entire gallon (moderation probably a good thing).

But it did take a couple attempts... and at one point I had some blockage to my relief valve... causing issues. It took it easy.. problem went away.

Chemical solutions are NOT for everyone
Chemical solution do not always work either.
But it worked for me.

No point in turning this into a BIG debate.. so what you feel comfortable with.

I've had good luck

Carry on..

Here's my story link again.. (if you missed it above)
SERIOUS ENGINE LIFTER TICK

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SainT

· #19 · 9 d ago (Edited)

MechBob said:
unless you don't have a filter!!

Cold engine literally don't have oil filter until oil not warm enough to go through it and oil bypass valve closes completely
Flush with strong chemicals is always a lottery (I know very strong solvent that clean engine to new but if ur pan painted inside -all paint will be removed and clogged oil pump intake mesh)
I saw happy and unhappy ends of flushing -it depends of overall engine wear and mostly it helps (but with unknown damage to engine)
But before any flushing I would try to adjust rockers

QUICK Hack! Fast Valve Adjustment with Dave at Chucks Speed in Phoenix AZ

See the whole procedure - https://youtu.be/u3s-GuBvKDcDave Lowther at Chuck's Speed Center in Phoenix AZ shows us his "Hack" for a quick SBC Valve Adjustment...

youtube.com

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