[97cargocrawler]

I've heard that the Gen2 steering shafts are long enough for a 3" body lift but I was skeptical. Even if it were I'm a little paranoid about having minimal overlap. My van is a '97 RWD. I already have a 2" body lift with worn out stock bushings. The shaft is pulled out 7" already:

After removing the shaft I found that it was already maxed out! 7" is the max extension for this shaft. My plan was to install 3" blocks with new urethane body bushings...I would have been royally screwed doing another lift with this stock shaft.

Someone put a bug in my ear about the full sized Chevy Express steering shaft. I picked up a used one on Ebay for $50 shipped from a '96 1500 Express van. The shaft is significantly longer.

The stock shaft is about 15.5" compressed and the Express shaft is about 19".

Extended stock is 21" and Express is 26".

Fully extended the Express shaft has 9" exposed:

With my stock shaft at maximum length and the Express shaft extended to match end to end, the Express shaft has a good 4.5" additional overlap (well, maybe 3 to 3.5" once I put in the new pucks and bushings). That makes me feel nice and cozy, especially when I'll be pushing around 35" tires with this shaft soon.

As you can see the end couplers are not identical in length or design but the mating parts inside are correct.

Steering wheel side:

Pump side (note 90deg out of phase, more about that below):

I also added 3" to my dust boot:

I cut 5" of some 2"sched 40 PVC pipe, works perfect.

All good:

After installation the steering wheel will be about 90deg out of phase because of the coupler. I found out the hard way the steering wheel cannot be removed and rotated to compensate. I have yet to try it but I'm assuming I can reset the wheel by removing the pitman arm from the pump.

Wheels straight ahead, steering wheel is almost 90deg off.

The test drive was successful. Tomorrow I will attempt to reset the wheel. I'm feeling pretty good about this setup. A small price to pay for piece of mind.
:rockon:

 

[Mmusicman]

Very interesting! Now I have to go look and see how mine was done!

Is this model longer steering shaft normally used, or did you just use it because it was available to you? Did you know the shaft was 90 off?

 

[97cargocrawler]

Very interesting! Now I have to go look and see how mine was done!

Is this model longer steering shaft normally used, or did you just use it because it was available to you? Did you know the shaft was 90 off?

Nope! I don't know of anybody else who has tried this shaft. I'm sure somebody has, but I bought it just to see if it would work. I had no idea about the 90deg phase.

I don't know why but I always seem to learn the hard way. Yesterday I learned my steering wheel cannot be rotated on the shaft because it's keyed. Well, could be done with some slight filing.

I knew the pitman arm was keyed too at 90deg intervals. But for whatever reason I thought I could remove it and set it off 90deg to compensate for the wheel being off 90. Ugh! FTARD! You can spin the steering wheel like 5 times and that pitman arm will only move like 20deg. D'oh! I hadn't really thought about the ratios involved.

So, two lessons learned. Now My only recourse it to adjust the tie rods. OR, I could swap out my drag link for a tie rod assembly. The lengths are pretty much the same. Then I could have an adjustable drag link. My Land Cruiser has and adjustable drag link. Makes things pretty F'n easy. Imagine removing the pitman arm for no good reason.... :crying: :banghead:

Good news is I said F it and finally swapped out all of my tearing MOOG grease boots for urethane ones. I've had a box of those waiting to go in for months. I'm a little shocked how jacked the MOOG boots were considering they have been on there for less than a year.

 

[97cargocrawler]

4 twists on the tie rods and my wheel is straight again. Sometimes things are so easy you just can't see it.

Sent from my tachyonic antitelephone

 

[Mmusicman]

I knew there is usually a LOT of available adjustment on the tie-rods... glad to hear it was a SIMPLE resolve!

 

[Lumpy]

Could we compile and clarify some intermediate shaft stuff?

To my recall, it goes something like -

GenI - Long enough for typical 2" puck body lift
GenII - AWD long enough
GenII - RWD short, typically not long enough

Is that right so far?

Now for the Express vans...

Is there a difference in intermediate shaft lengths (and/or fittings) between the 1500, 2500, 3500? How about between the various engine sizes in the Express vans?

RockAuto doesn't seem to list any intermediate shafts for Astro or Express so I'm having a harder time than usual compiling any kind of cross reference list.

My 89 GenI RWD, with 2 inch pucks, is extended to what I feel is longer than I'm comfortable with. I think there's only about ONE inch of overlap in the telescope tubes.

Who's replaced their intermed shaft with something longer?

Cargo, are the tube diameters similar between the AstroFari and the Express? Could we plug the upper part of an Express into the lower part of an AstroFari (or vice-versa)? And thereby eliminate the 90 degree situation you describe?

Please! Gimme the Shaft!

Lump

 

[97cargocrawler]

I went with this shaft because I upgraded from 2" pucks to 3" pucks.

I would imagine the shafts for 1500, 2500 and 3500 are all the same. I can't think of any reasons for them not to be considering the difference between those models is mostly suspension and engine size. Seems the steering would stay the same.

The shaft diameters are the same. You would only need to remove the limiter pin to swap sections. The end couplings however are staked really good, so you can't easily remove or re-clock those.

I went this route because it seems safer than cutting and welding in a new section. I don't trust my welding skills that much.

The 90 phase difference is a no biggie. I turned the steering rod couplers like four twists and problem solved. That was the easiest part.

I'm not too sure of the differences between generations, all I know is that my shaft was good enough for 2" blocks but definitely not for 3". Now I have like 5" of overlap so I feel pretty darn good about it. Overall it was a very cheap and easy safety upgrade.

 

[Lumpy]

I'm still having trouble sourcing a longer steering shaft.

Research seems to suggest that GM Part # -
26080253 *Appears to be LOWER half only
19153614 *Appears to be UPPER half, trucks not vans, doesn't resemble Astro

Does "UPPER" and "LOWER" mean the two halves of the slip jointed assembly? Each one (upper and lower) has a U joint on it?

eBay, Amazon, LAP, Online auto parts, Online GM dealers, all coming up empty.

My shaft is too short! Help a short shaft brother... :shrug:

Lump

 

[chevymaher]

I know nothing. I am still down in the weeds at stock height.
It just a steering shaft. Get a pick and pull lower section. Cut that baby in half and weld in a extension. If it isn't perfectly balanced within a tenth of a gram I don't think you will notice as slow as it spins.
That is how I would handle it. I mean you hand built your suspension what is one more part.

 

[97cargocrawler]

Why buy a new one? They are expensive. I got mine used for $50.

 

[AstroWill]

Lump, on my 89 with the 2inch pucks the stock shaft was the same as yours I didn't feel comfortable with it at all, barely inserted. I like to insert it all the way, so I used a second gen shaft I got from the PNP for $5 and it's almost all the way compressed when installed. I'm not sure if the donor was rwd or awd though, won't be back there for a couple of weeks, but I can get you some pictures if you like.

 

[Lumpy]

Cargo - Used or New, I don't find any.

AstroWill - I'd like to see pics if you have or could take any.

This is, I would guess, one of the least addressed factors when anyone does a lift. And could potentially be one of the most dangerous.

Revisiting the fabulous $uperJoe build thread - He exteded his by welding a piece of common 11 ga 1x1 sq tubing OVER the D shape shafts. That seems like a very safe way to go. Eliminates the worries about but welding two 3/4 pieces of solid steel, is infinitely variable/adjustable, safe even if one or both welds fail and can probably be done out of my welding scrap box.

I've lived with it short for a couple of years, since the big lift. No disasters. But the next lift will surely take it past it's limit.

What? The next lift?... :twisted:

Lump

 

[AstroWill]

Do you want a picture of the shaft as installed in the Tiger?

 

[Lumpy]

Do you want a picture of the shaft as installed in the Tiger?

Actually, the pics you've edited into your post above are perfect. Thanks for the comparison shots.

Lump

 

[AstroWill]

No prob.

 

[97cargocrawler]

I bought mine on ebay. With all the models and years that should have these longer shafts I wouldn't think they are too hard to come by. I found mine about 5 minutes after someone on another thread mentioned it. I bought it hoping it would work and for $50 I figured it was cheap enough to experiment. It ended up working perfectly. I don't even think about it being in there, it just works.

 

[AstroWill]

I agree with buying the shaft used, it's not a high wear part, I would buy used again in a hearbeat.

 

[Lumpy]

If anyone can link me to an eBay auction with one, I'll floss your dog's teeth.

Lump

 

[AstroWill]

Lumpy,
If you don't mind waiting until I get back down to the JY, send me a PM.

 

[Lumpy]

Thanks AW, but I think I'll weld one like the $Joe solution.

But I'll still floss your dog.

Lump