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I've never installed an aftermarket coil, only AC Delco.
 

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Common Sense + Critical Thinking
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I think the bolts I grabbed were like 300mm, it's under an inch from bracket face to bracket face. I just grabbed something close from the metric drawer at HD.

If yours is working fine, I wouldn't preemptively replace it. Typically, if you keep the rest of the secondary ignition system in good shape, aka don't wait too long to check/change plugs/wires/cap/rotor/etc then you shouldn't need to replace the coil.
Once someone lets that stuff go and the coil has to work harder than it was designed to do, then it starts to find a path through the insulation that is shorter than the path through the wires/cap/rotor/plugs. Once it does that for a period of time, then even if you replace the other stuff you still end up replacing the coil as the insulation has broken down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Reason I was thinking to replace it too is that changing the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor fixed my sudden misfire problem. But after pushing it after the last fuel filter, it had another P0300 (albeit mild) misfire along with the usual P0101.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
How much additional labor is added by having the LIM gaskets done? Any info I should relay to my mechanic about the job?

Added: After looking at a diagram, it looks like in this situation, the intake manifold would be removed with the spider still attached, and the spider replaced on the removed intake manifold. Is this the case? If so, it would seem to make the replacement of the spider itself easier.

I also see (assuming I am looking at the correct diagram) lots of other items that look like they would still be attached to the removed intake manifold (IAC, TPS, MAP sensor, Evap. Purge Solenoid). I do have an Evap error code. Are these things that are easy for my mechanic to test once the intake manifold is out?
 

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Well it's more like if you are doing the LIM, doing the injectors adds a few minutes labor. It's all going to depend on what and how he charges.

EVAP issues are probably easier to deal with while everything is installed. Other than changing any hoses that are shot that you come across during the LIM/injector replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Had the LIM gasket and spider done. Mechanic said the LIM gasket looked like it was ready to blow any day now, so thanks very much for that advice. Van runs a lot better with the new spider. Still has the issue though, but not nearly as bad. There is a 4 mile uphill stretch on the ride home, and I still seem to start to misfire trying to keep up with traffic. I did start smelling an egg smell while this was happening. Any recommendations on CARB compliant cats? Also curious if replacing the muffler with something more free-flowing is a good idea.
 

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You need to fix whatever's causing the cat to die first. Sounds like you still have a misfire under load.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Anyone know what this sound is? Hearing it for 1st time today. Kinda sounds like a squeeky pulley. Thinking it is probably related to the recent work done.

Cant upload mp4 apparently...
or mkv... or webm...
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
The van is actually running pretty well. I'm not really sure if what it's doing now is mis-firing. I have not been able to get the SEL to come on. The shaking/vibration seems to be happening right around when a 4-3 or 3-4 shift should be happening, so I am thinking it might be transmission related.

Anyway, where before I could only do 40-45mph up the 4 mile uphill stretch, I can now do 60-65mph. Also, there were 2 other uphill areas where the van struggled before the spider replacement, and now no longer does. I think I should be good for a little while.

Thanks very much for the help everyone.
 

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That is awesome to hear, and a huge improvement!

Quite possible that it's transmission related if it's consistently happening around a specific shift.
 

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Hey, any update? I'm having a very similar issue with my 03 Astro. Wondering if you were able to pinpoint they issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
The problem came back. Error P0101 and P0300. Also, not sure if maybe this is related, but the ABS is acting up at the same time. Almost crashed while parking today. I'm going to look into disabling the ABS, but if anyone wants to share that info here, I would certainly appreciate it.

The ABS errors are C0225, C0238, and C0227. Any chance these could be related to the engine running poorly? Maybe a short somewhere?

Added: Just pulled the ABS fuse now.
 

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The ABS codes have absolutely NOTHING to do with the engine.
 

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Cool.Read this entire thread.I suspect you still have an issue with your exhaust system,even though you have replaced the parts that would have caused it.Possible partially plugged converters,possible muffler problem.Not uncommon.4.3's are powerful,especially 1996 and up,even at high altitude.unless you have 1800 lbs in the back.Your ABS is perhaps a different problem,even though it uses readings from the PCM.The biggest thing I see,that you have not done,is replace the crank sensor.It tells the PCM when to fire the spark plugs, and works in conjunction with the PCM and ignition module, as to when fire the injectors.I have said here,for years,about this,but people just ignore me.Also,the connector that plugs into this sensor is well known for problems,the terminals get loose and intermittently make contact.There are so many GM service bulletins about this,on the older stuff,is incredible.OK,just my 2 cents.
 

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co60 said:
The problem came back. Error P0101 and P0300. Also, not sure if maybe this is related, but the ABS is acting up at the same time. Almost crashed while parking today. I'm going to look into disabling the ABS, but if anyone wants to share that info here, I would certainly appreciate it.
Have to look at the live data and find what your misfire counts are at each cyl, or at least that is where I would start. ABS isn't related. Use only paper air filters? Cleaned your MAF using only MAF cleaner?

co60 said:
The ABS errors are C0225, C0238, and C0227. Any chance these could be related to the engine running poorly? Maybe a short somewhere?
Two codes related to the front left sensor and a speed mismatch that is probably caused by the front left sensor messing up. Guess I would start at that front left sensor wiring/connector/cleaning/worn wheel bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
The biggest thing I see,that you have not done,is replace the crank sensor.
Thanks very much, I had not thought about changing that.

ABS isn't related.
Not really likely to be a short somewhere? No adjacent pins on the PCM or fusebox, or wires that are wrapped together or anything of the sort? I don't doubt that the 2 issues aren't related at all, it's just that when 2 seemingly unrelated issues start happening at the same time, I do not discount the possibility that they are related.

On a Volvo 240, I removed my instrument cluster to access the headlight relay, and my alternator stopped charging the battery. Well, on a 240, the cluster (or at least a component on it) is indeed required for alternator excitation.

Use only paper air filters?
I think so. It's white and was the default item given to me when i asked for an air filter.

Cleaned your MAF using only MAF cleaner?
I replaced it. I did use a Duralast instead of an ACDelco. This fixed it, for like 2 weeks.

The over-arching theme of the repairs I have done on this vehicle is that every time I replace something, it fixes the issue for anywhere from a week to over a month. Also, the issue of it revving up and down and almost or actually stalling out after getting off the highway and coming to a stop seems to correlate to the loss of power on uphill highway driving.
 
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