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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well... more of a "Rebirth" or "Return"... to the Van my wife and I enjoyed driving Out West back in 95'. I really owe it to this tired old vehicle to "Make it feel right again".

Don't get me wrong - it is still driveable - Xmas trees, pallets of sod, 7 family members, GAP outlet store runs, who needs to go where and with what? , etc, etc, etc... But, I can't put these off for too long much longer. The other car ( 2006 Altima SE ) is finally out of the shop and trustworthy enough to take the van "out of service" for an extended period.

I have till August 2015 ( Whew, hope it doesn't take THAT long ). We are planning a trip to Sturgis 75th Anniv. and points west with my wife's sister and her husband ( who are "Harley Davidson aficionados" ). They will be driving another van ( brand X ) and pulling their bikes on a trailer. Wife and I will help with pulling "The Toys".

Need to do / Things to do / Want to do

1) JY Fuel door release - Lever flops around - Cable end still intact - Latch still works
- update: still need OEM lever from JY, but was able to temp. repair the cable end/lever capture point.

2) JY Replace headliner / repair / visors - loose - entire - front to back - deadening - insulation

3) JY Engine fan clutch OR Electric fan & relay conversion

4) Cruise control not working - check all vacuum fittings and hoses - elecs. & servo system

5) Heater / A/C vent controls selector - chk. vacuum system - JY replacement dash control unit

6) Hard idle - in gear

7) Electric door locks balky

8) JY Windows slow - one slows the other

9) Bad Ground - in dash?

10) Ammeter bounces with blinker

11) Engine elec. / Alternator noise thru stereo - AM - need RADIO GROUND TO METAL

12) Shocks - all four - would like smooth "cushy ride" OEM style

13) Body - Frame mounts / bushings - noisy over bumps

14) Stereo / amp. refurbish - heat - cavity in heater duct - wiring - door speakers/subs - insulation/deadening

15) Sliding door / bearings / clean / grease

16) Door seals - silicone

17) Interior panels / Carpet cleaning

18) JY Seat belt latch covers - plastic shroud

19) OEM Reese hitch ball carrier and locking retainer pin - ball set - offset? - extender?

20) Trailer wiring harness - permanent? - routing to plug - hideaway / swing up

21) Dents - minor above l.r. wheel & on sliding door/r.r. wheel well

22) Fog lights get working / rework - reseal - mechanical and elec.

23) JY Glove compartment release broken - 2nd time

24) Complete chassis lube

25) Steering / suspension component / bushings check

26) JY Rear stabilizer bar & related parts - JY?

27) Sound proofing, deadening, insulation

28) GAS MILEAGE issues - emissions systems, cat, exhaust

29) PERFORMANCE issues - head & intake work, cam, CAI - CPI vs TBI

Yes - have quite a bit to do. They are in some sort of order - starting with my/it's most immediate needs and I realize that some will be taken care with others as one item is fixed. IE: 7) door locks balky, 8) Windows slow or never, 9) Bad Ground issues, 10) Ammeter bounces and 11) Alternator noise thru stereo will probably tie together to some degree.

As will 2) Hdliner, 14) stereo, door spkrs. & insulation, 15) Sliding door, 16) Door seals, 17) Interior panels / Carpet cleaning and 27) Sound proofing, etc. will be taken care of concurrently.

Vacuum issues the same... 4) Cruise and 5) A/C controls

I will be referring to these items under the #)s assigned and will do my best to take as many GOOD photos as I can - PROMISE. Scouts Honor? Now - onto the Headliner...

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Guess I'm "all in", no turning back now. Spent the afternoon yesterday shopping for van materials at Hancock Fabrics, Lowes and our friendly neighborhood JY ( Bessler's ).

I will post photos and info as soon as I finish PAINTING THE FRONT PORCH. Dang...! ( and a few other choice expletives ) Seems the more I get into working on the van, the bigger her "honeydew list" gets. Should be this afternoon.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Update: - Geez... Top coat done, hedges trimmed, look at pile 10 feet tall !!!, eat, shower, beer and:

Lumpy, that's funny - BMW, Porsche, HAH! It was primer over the crappy paint I did the other day - had to sand most of it off where it had bubbled and dried.

Still have to top coat it. Dang wife... we get a couple items crossed off and she just makes a new one - never get to see "THE LIST" get done....but I AM doin' stuff.

On to the van stuff: Went to Hancock Fabrics in Newport and got 4 yards of Oxford Grey ( their spelling ) 60" wide headliner material - lists for $14.99 /yd..
Drove down to Florence Lowes for a roll of Reflectix insulation, a roll of Peel & Seal, 2 cans of 3M 77 and a pack of torx bits.
Then off to Bessler's JY in Hebron - spent a couple of hours wandering about, then 1/2 hr to pull a gas door release assy., electronic ( GEN II ? ) overhead console & a GEN I passenger lighted visor.

By the way - I always put my captions UNDER the photo - old school, I guess.


Fairly productive - Strange clerk, good deals and an interesting JY visit... a different post, I'm sure.


Hancock Fabrics lists their 60" wd. Headliner material for $14.99 / yd - they stock some 48" and make deals on remnants - I brought 4 yds. and it actually matched their online color sample. I bring 2 bolts to the desk, 1 kinda' shabby with a few spots, 1 new - asked if I could get a break on the old one, he said "50 PER CENT OFF FOR THAT" - real loud and sounding just like "NO SOUP FOR YOU" from Seinfeld - same face and ethnic bkgrnd. Seemed serious, scared the crap out of us.

I was just talking w/ him there the other day about his 12 oz $14 can of contact glue & he was nice as can be and NO accent! The shabby bolt was too short - she unrolled 4 yds from the new bolt and sent me to the cashier with a slip. He scans a code on the register and says, "$31.80 please" - paid him, grabbed the receipt and material and RAN outa' there. New headliner for $7.50 / yd. right there on the receipt. Nice.


This Peel & Seal seems very highly rated, forums, reviews and some guys I know that wished they had saved their money over some of the alternatives. Can't beat it - $16.48 for 6" x 25' - it's about 3/16 thick. I will be using it in the "front" area ceiling between the A and B pillars, front and back doors - partial inner and outer skins, speaker mounts and locations... I know I will be buying more. Cans of 16oz 3M 77 were $9.95 ea., set of 5 torx bits up to #40 - $4.98.
The lady smiled and seemed genuinely human.

Are there any torx on these vans larger than 40 - is the seat belt anchor 50?


I had temporarily fixed the release lever and cable end - posted a short version on "What have...your van today". I still wanted to replace the lever, oil the new cable length and make like new - so I got this GEN I lever assy., cable and latch box for $6.99 at the JY. Still has the microscopic spring in the lever - no rust. It came from a 94 Astro and the latch nylon was black, my orig is white.

Did I read somewhere about the latch plastic breaking on some?


Got a "Like New" pass. lighted visor for $5.99 at the JY. The plug on my old one was 5X harder to come apart than the rest of the screws. I forgot my "electric plug getteropener slipsundertab gadget". Clean, seemingly unused and it works!!

Do any of the later model visors fit - the ones with the extension piece that slides to the inside and has a "double visor"? Maybe that's conv. vans only?


Reflectix from Lowes seems thin enough to fit above the headliner base material - should provide some additional insulation and sound deadening - honestly, I have not been able to look under the "substrate"? except in front around the console - what's up there? It was $39.90 for the roll 4' wide X 25' long X 5/16" thick, alum. both sides. I am planning to use the 3M 77 to hold it up - black butyl by the ribs. Should be plenty. They sell quite a few widths - all reasonbly priced, I think.


1998 Bravada Ovrhd. Console, from the JY, paid $15.99, very good shape - nothing extra for the Temp Sensor or wiring harness bits and pieces. They did check all the hidden pockets, never looked in MY pockets ( I had a giant trench coat and heavy backpack on ) or checked my toolbag. No cavity checks...

I did a prelim. fit and it is "workable" - the side contour is close and the substrate will have to be filled in some ( my orig. console is 1/2" or so wider ). It does have the inch/mm and mode buttons - if I remember right - temp and compass? Is there more - it's all I wanted. Maybe a clock or mileage? I'll look for it again online.

Temp. seems like no big deal, but need to find an electronic compass to interface - anyone have suggestions? Radio shack?

Leeann has a Bravada or did - maybe she can help with wiring or the control module for the console. Please.


Another photo of console and Temp. Sensor, Display Bezel is cleaner than the photos show - it's attached with 3 phillips screws, 2 under the clear domelight cover, 1 at the windshield end - you can see it in the previous photo. My orig. has 4 M10 screws and "angled" plastic tabs that go into slotted openings in the ceiling adapter plate - interesting. A bit of "fitup" ( and I use it lightly ) will be called for. Another day...


Side view showing contour - seems like GM used this design on quite a few models. Just hoping I didn't waste $16. No, I do not know if it even works electrically - think they'll take it back...??? LOL

Not sure when this Portion will be completed - but will keep up and not allow things to stagnate. I say that now.

Later, Mike

ps: wife asked if there is a "Longest Boring Post" contest or poll. What does she mean? - just because I can go on for what should - damn her, she hit SUBMIT
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
chevymaher said:
I got the same console. Did you get the temp sensor in the grill while you were there? I could never get the computer in mine to fire up at all not a light. But the ceiling contour is similar. It looks factory once it is in. They got a cool light deal. If the map lights are on open the door and they go off and the dome light comes on. I got the garage door opener to work to. You got a console already mine just had the dome light. And it wasn't worth a nickle. So dim you couldn't even read anything. So for me it was worth it for the light and the garage opener. Not to mention I like the look.
Morning Randy - yes, I remember seeing how well it fit, looked factory, NICE - what did you get it from? And did you get the harness parts that involved the mirror too? The mirror was gone in this 98 Bravada, but the lead and small plug were still there. Have to look what that model/year's mirror did besides auto dim.

Yes - you can see the temp sensor / short wire harness in the photo. You say you originally only had the dome light - so your headliner was more solid where the console mounts? What bracketry or adapter mounts did you have up there - mine has a "full length" plate w/ the weird "tapered slots" - which will interfere w/ the front inside head of the console.

What were you referring to about the computer? I guess you were only able to get temp, right? What garage door opener - 3 buttons/homelink or the strapin opener that uses the console button to push it? Saw one of those too.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
These will definitely help with this Project: Purchased on @bay early Tuesday morning, now get this - Delivered an hour ago - 2 days from middle of Penn. Fedex Tracking, the whole bit, bubble wrapped, packaged both nice in same box.
Lightly used - good fingerprint locations are like "tabs" for most often repaired items.
j2toolsandsupply (35687 ) - 99.9% Positive feedback


Chevy Dealership 1992 Astro Van Electrical Diagnosis & Wiring Diagrams - Book # ST-372-92-EDD
$9.97 and free shipping.


Genuine GM 1992 ASTRO VAN Dealership Shop Service Repair Manual - Book # ST 372-92
$7.53 and free shipping on both.

Never thought I could get these 2 for $17.50 - amazing...

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks Leeann and Chevy - perfect. I'll compare this wiring and colors in the morning to the diagrams and let you know.

I'll see what I might need and let you know, Randy. Oh, I know and remember it well, this GM wiring thing... from putting in the HU, amp and speakers years back.

Thanks again !! Off to bed...

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
OK now - back to work.

While I was BUSY doing everything else - taking care of the wife's PT, both our multiple Drs. appts., had to get a new stove as the old one decided to "Go Welding" on us ( oven element caught fire, sparked, threw fireballs, making a horrendous noise, couldn't put it out - had to pull the Breaker, blah, blah, blah ). New GE stove now...

But I did manage to get a few things done:

View media item 26018Yep - sure do need a new Headliner - Pulled the old Console out, then had to trim it to be able to work around it.

View media item 26010It don't look toooo bad - LoL - back part kinda' makes a fashion statement...

View media item 26002Trimmed Headliner so I could work on the Console fit up - I will post a better view of Console mounting plate after I get the Headliner out. Pulled the radio out to prep for running a new ground and for the IGN power source for the new Console.


just trying a few things out - different ways to post images...
Anyway, new Console sitting in front of Old - note differences in the width at top and bottom - will require "building out" the insides of the substrate about 1" at the front and back.


New Console on right - approx 2" shorter and narrower at the front and back. It has a removeable "inside cover" that runs the length of it - to gain access to wiring and components. There is a front locator tab ( at the bottom in this photo ) that I removed during fit up. More on this later.


I know it doesn't look like much... but talk about your cheap a$$ electrical tape - it was used inside the Console. Thin as cellophane and a staticy (sp) feel like mylar??


Consoles side by side - the difference in contours is evident - not sure if any other contours were used - Astro/safari style? It's close, s/b OK with some persuasion to the headliner contour using foam offset and minor easing.


Red boxes indicate where foam filler under the substrate will help w/ the contour match. Front held up temporarily with a piece of wood - hole center punched - just have to wait till Headliner is out to drill for front screw. More on this also LATER.


I hate this jungle behind the radio and I need Console power. You can just make out where I cut into the "Heater Duct" to get the radio to fit. Did that about 15 years ago - doh!

Another Bucket list item...


Console / Radio / etc electric schematic. Sitting in the Drs. office(S), thought I'd draw up what I did with the wiring. I have a much better quality version in PDF and DWG format if you wish. This was just for testing and "proof of concept", so there might be a change or 6.

LoL


Same Console / Radio / etc electric schematic but for you color challenged.

B/W - none of those pesky colors to fool with. I need to gather some notes about the wiring - I'll get back on those also.


Success - at last!!!

On to removing the interior.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well, after a couple weeks getting more light and power in the garage, I can now see what I'm doing and use a few power tools without having yards of extension cords running from all over the house. 1 plug in the entire 2 car garage ??

After test fitting and getting the New Console working ( SORT OF ), time to start pulling the interior and documenting it. Quite a bit to do to get the headliner out:


This cute single wire connector ( I'm being nice ), without the proper tool, could be your undoing. Just saying. Got 3 hands? Don't want to drop the Visor? This is starting like this?
Old sticky foam looks to easily become a nightmare. NOTE FOR FUTURE: Try to keep as much of the material stuck to the fiberglass backing as possible - Mine was partially detached & had cut it out for the Console fit up and it was hanging down in my way. Bummer, the old foam is now permanently part of my hair...

Highly consider the $500 or so to get it done elsewhere...naahhhh, get a hat and mask.


3 phillips hold the visor up. The connector only has 1 wire as the metal rod carries the ground thru the triangular base, spring and sheet metal.


22 years later - original bulbs still work. But if you have to change them or service your VISOR, there's 4 phillips screws under the lenses.


What a contraption - looks like a flat Rube Goldberg. Rotating contacts, sliding steel plates, lo and hi beam slider for the 4 bulbs, count em, 4 of em. RED arrows show power contacts

LOL, all this mechanism in a lighted VISOR.


Innocent little Visor Clip X 2
I HATE them.


See me shaking? So far, pulling these 2 Visor Clips out of the sheet metal without ruining them or the headliner was the second hardest thing I have done on the van. And that includes changing front shocks, stabil. bar and a 4 corner brake job...


Fast spiral screws ( #10 Torx ) pull the center down as a mechanical "drywall style" retainer. Screw does not go into metal.


Both Clips were mangled after being pulled straight out. The "draw down" plastic and screw should still spread the ribbed wings and hold them in. Sheet metal edges really had a hold on em'


Managed to save the 2 hole locations in the fiberglass. Don't twist the Visor Clip side to side.
The old foam has now turned to a STICKY GOO ( the actual technical term ). And it is getting all over everything. Got the seats wrapped like mummies. I can't wait to start cleaning this crap off the rather flimsy fiberglass base.


"Passenger Assist" Door Handle-Outside of both Bolt covers popped off. These 2 bolts loosened over the years and were only finger tight. geez...
My "Custom Automotive Retainer Removal Tool" in the background.


Bolt covers were NOT real easy to pop off. Pushed from inside, then used a dull putty knife to dig into around it and scar it... no, just pop it up on the corner to just POP it loose, POP goes the released catch. Pop, Pop... Now watch were it goes-17' feet away-new record. Careful now-these old pieces are brittle sometimes and break too easily.


Pass. Door Trim piece phillips. Grossly dirty, stained embarrassment.


Here's the location of the 3 retainers. They are the same on the other side. Black tape are my markers. There is also a phillips screw at the end of both.


Pull down on the trim piece to reveal the retainer TAB-a screwdriver from both ends will help release it. A slight twist, push, levering and holding your tongue right helps. POPS right out...


Retainer has a VERY tight fit on the tab, which was sorta' welded to the metal.


This retainer "TAB" is about 2" long and pretty strong - glad for that!


"Tree" fasteners are used all over this van - the right removal tool and knowing where they are is key. These pulled out fairly easy and can be reused, altho' most auto parts stores have them. Do you need a close up of the TREE thingie?

Tomorrow, I'll start on the "Center" sections, seat belts, seats, sliding door surround trim and dome lamp.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
NO... I did not get to the Dome Light yet. I realize everyone is waiting to comment for when I work on IT.

Until then, I plod on: "Phase 1" was the purchase of JY parts, New ( to me ) OH Console, Headliner stuff, Insulation, padding, etc. and the test wiring and fit up of the Console to the Headliner.

Phase 2 was the removal of the Visors, Visor Clips and "Front" Door and Window Trim pieces between the A & B pillars.

Phase 3: Removal of the "Middle" Trim at the Sliding Door frame surround. B to C pillars. This will include some of the "Rear" hardware also.

Phase 4: Removal of the Passenger sd. "Rear" Trim and hardware from the C to D pillars. This will include some of the RR. A/C Duct work also.

Phase 5: Removal of the Driver sd. single large Trim panel and hardware from the B to D pillars.

Phase 6: Removal of anything else, hardware or velcro, whatever, holding the Headliner(s) up, then finally IT / THEY can be pulled out and put on the workbench.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I need a new Avatar - That mini pic of the Van with the "snow" thing going on... well... it's just tired.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Before going on, there's just a few things or notes I been keeping as I went along.
I will share.

- I am a Professional, but an Unprofessional mechanic in a Closed garage - Your actual Van or mileage may differ...

- LT Trim appears to be the highest level on these Astros, not sure what the Safari high trim level is called.

- I am going to Number my photos ( just like they are in the Gallery ) from here on out - I keep having to refer to another photo for details, etc, etc.

- Wire Harnesses uncovered so far are not wrapped, untidy, some pinched in metal and plastic.

- I would like to show all the fastener styles seen so far - probably a dozen.

- Consider latex or reg. thin gloves on old hdlnr. foam.

- Haynes book - published 1993 skimpy on interior items

- GM Field Service Manual is not much better - not much LT Trim stuff.

- There is a Visor Clip drawing - 1992 FSM / pg 10 A 4 - 9, fig. 13.

- Side door roller bracket covers - upper and lower - JY.

- Careful with "Middle" side door Trim piece - the two ends are thin - flimsiest parts so far.

- Photo(s) of all the tools used - univ., 13mm, specials, speed handle, 5/16 socket, etc. Maybe, I dunno.

- Seat in /out and locations - I did not have to pull front seats - just move them forward, Both middle seats are out - I keep one out all the time. Back seat stayed in, I just moved it back and forth and tilted it where I needed it. They will also help to hold the headliner up going in and out. Your call, I just didn't have anyplace to put that big, heavy thing.

- Need sliding door upper bracket Trim Pieces. Did I repeat myself? uh, yup

- Need Seat belt cover, glove comp. door/latch, Drvrs. Lighted / Mirror Visor, Auto dimming mirror w/ Compass.

- Working on these Vans - like other things - there are phillips screwdrivers and then there are Phillips Screwdrivers that work really GOOD - grip in there like no tomorrow, fit snug. You will need just one good one. Maybe it's a Metric Phillips?? Not sure - shop around, take some screws you struggled to get out - you need to get the BEST Phillips Screwdriver you can get.

- There seems to be a total mix of Inch and Metric hardware and fasteners used throughout - but those Phillips screws are ALL the same.

I know there's more - when they trickle out, I'll write them down.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
On to "Phase 3":


27
Console or Dome light removal. Mirror removal. Decide now if Console, Dome, Visor(s) or Visor Clip(s) will hold Headliner up while you wrestle with the rest.


28
Console removed. Fasteners - (4) 10 MM screws in slide open compartments. Interesting Wedge Locators. At bot. rt. is the Black 3 pin plug I later cut off to use with the New Console. This old Console is FOR SALE.


29
Front Seatbelt Hangers - Drvr. and Pass. sides are different. Coat Hook(s), Handle get removed. Rear Dome lt. is staying in till last.

I should go back to the 98 Bravada or something and get the "Upgraded" Rear Dome light that went with the OH Console. Guess I was too excited that day.


30
Rear and Middle Seatbelt Hangers, more Coat Hooks - can't never have too many of em', I guess. Pass. Middle seat Belt Spooler will be left in till second to last.


31
Front Seatbelt bolt cover - tab release.
Managed to get (1) nice crisp closeup and it's only this little tab.


32
Front Seatbelt - #50 Torx

Luck ran out - sorry for the blur... #50 Torx - is this the largest on the van?

There's another Lucky Handle to spend quality time with. Stupid little covers. Got 4 of em' now. Bolts underneath also 10 MM. And they were a couple threads "loose" too.


33
Pass. Bottom B pillar Trim phillips screw.
Anyone know what the black "PUSH TO LOCK" button does. Or supposed to do...


34
Pass. Middle Trim upper phillips. Last Middle trim panel screw. Remove the Upper Sliding Door bracket Trim Covers.
This will allow more room for the "Thin" Trim ends to move down for Retainer release.

Looking thru the FSM, noticed a Trim piece I never realized I was missing - the bottom cover for the Sliding Door bracket. The upper one I have does not color match rest of interior. Prev. owner broke them, I guess.


35
Pass. sd. Cooler removal ( or Both sides ). 13 MM bolt locations - these were difficult - real tight FINE threads all the way out. I used a "Speed Handle", universal and a socket - easiest and fastest. Right about now, I'm liking fast and easy. With bolts out, lift up and out a few inches and pull the drain line off the bottom of the cooler.


36
Pass. sd. Cooler removed - I see that the Rubber Hose is still in good shape.


37
Drvr. sd. Cooler on Left - Cool ball bearing glide ashtrays. The Pass. sd. Cooler is larger - The 2 shoulder bolts are shown.

Pretty Cool - are there other Vans that come with 2 coolers - be they ever so humble...


38
Drvr. sd. Cooler on Rt. - no other fasteners besides the 2 bolts. Remember the Drain fittings.
The Coolers are fairly well insulated as well as the "strangely opening" lid.


39
Pass. Middle Trim "Leg" - B pillar Retainer and fastener locations. Phillips screw on the Bot. Courtesy Lamp wire was abused and the Harness, while not messed with by the 2 owners, was a mess here and elsewhere.


39.1
Since the previous shot had the A/S Logo covering it - here's a (pos - lazy photographer) close up of the Pass. sd. B pillar lower screw location and wire.

This "Footwell Courtesy Lamp" wire has had a hard time these 22 years - It was wrapped around the screw and pinched in the panels at the corner. Insulation was scraped off quite a bit and flat as a pancake. Probably would have failed in another 10-15 years. ;-O

Really, BAD GROUNDS are fairly common, so check all wires, harness covers ( if any ) and harness retainers and old tape, holddown or splices. Make it where you don't have to worry about them come reinstall time.


40
Pass. Middle Trim upper Pin and fastener locations. Also, in the shot, is the adjustable Seatbelt mount - push in to move about 6" and Handle mount.


41
Pass. Middle Trim upper rt. Retainer and fastener locations. Phillips screw on the rt.


42
Pass. B pillar Middle trim Panel - Pin, retainer and fastener locations. (3) Phillips screws - marked with red hash marks. (9) Retainer locations marked with Black Tape.

Careful with tools around the Headliner material and substrate - right about now you want to put a perm. divot in it

This MIDDLE Panel was the "trickiest" to remove and it has 2 long flimsy "Thin Sections". Consider releasing as many of the Retainers on the REAR TRIM PANEL between the Pass. "C pillar and D pillar" as possible. The (2) THIN sections of this panel need room to move DOWN to clear the Retainers.

Refer to photos 44, 45, 51 and 65. Pull the C and D pillar's "legs" out 2-3" enough to clear the Retainers, then pull the C pillar "Leg" down about an inch, which will now allow the 2 THIN section's Retainers to come out.

Work your way forward, pulling Retainers loose, just to where the Sliding Door track starts to curve. Now pull the B pillar's "Leg" out 2-3". The vinyl panels are held very tight and feel substantial, like they aren't going to move. Use your "Retainer Removal Tool" to release the top a bit. Tool marks will look like $hit. Pull DOWN enough to clear what looks like a very long and fragile locator PIN.

Geez, that was long, but it's not as hard as it sounds. Right...


43
Pass. B pillar Middle trim Panel - Pin and fastener locations - Back view. (3) Phillips screws - marked with red hashmarks. Missing a Retainer from when it was built - you could tell there was not one on there, ever. Did make it easier to work with tho'.

Guess they ran outa' insulation... you know what they say: "a $ or 2 here and there x millions of Vans - adds up"
Right...

Long day, week and month...

Did I mention it has been a Long day, week and month? Wish I didn't have to remodel the garage for this build.

But I can't think of a better cause. Too old and I'm beat. Need to see what the wife looks like.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Phase 4: Passenger sd. Rear Trim removal


44
Pass. ( & Drvr. ) sd. Rear upper - (3) Coat Hooks, if you are removing both sides - (3) phillips screws, bot. of C pillar and (2) at D pillar - see photos 60, 63 and 64. (3) Seatbelts - #50 Torx, also if you are doing both sides.

I guess I never paid much attention to it, but there are (2) sections of Hdlnr. I have seen some of these Vans with a short section in front - mostly Gen II and that would take care of the Cargo models. Maybe some have 3 sections?
I am leaving the Middle Pass. Seatbelt Spooler and Dome Light till last to hold them up while...


45
Pass. sd. D pillar Speaker Grill removal, some nasty Retainers here. Patience is key... Steel bracket and toasted Speaker, GM mounted at the top of the Grill, taken out.


46
Drvr. sd. D pillar Speaker Grill removal - very easy Retainers - also toasted Speaker, factory mounted in the middle of the Grill, taken out.


47
Aftermarket Speakers (Kenwood) have had it - Same fate as MOST of the foam in the van, Kenwood must have asked GM for some of their $hitty stuff. Pass. sd. is mounted on a steel bracket. I think it was a 5/16 socket or driver to remove them.


48
Pass. sd. Speaker Grill on Rt. - I don't remember them being this different ( 20 years ago in a drug-induced haze... ).

I need to reupolster ( strange word, 1st time for me ) these two Grills when I redo the new Console trim ring that sits against the Headliner.

Retainer Clips are different than the other Grill, very stubborn, sounds like you're breaking steel and plastic when they finally break loose.

They will do 1 of 3 things: - come off with the Grill, fine or - fall down into a "worm hole", never to be seen again, or - as in most cases, fly off, somewhere... watch your eyes.
The Grills will probably match if no Rear AC.


49
Drvr. sd. Grill and Speaker is mounted directly to the AC duct without any protection from AC vent air, moisture, etc. Not to mention the different acoustics between the two Speakers.


50
Drvr. Jack storage cover removal - 1 large plastic nut and 1 Latch operated "expanding mandrel" type fastener on the right. GM used all their styles of fasteners, retainers, screws, bolts, etc, and you will see them all on these interior pieces with no seeming consistency, but the Latch is definitely the "Topper".


51
Drvr. Jack storage cover removed - storage instruction plastic sheet and lanyard are still intact - I have only used the Jack stuff once - R. RR. went flat on the Interstate. Phillips trim screw shown marked in red, with the Locator just below it for the fold down Latch.

With these Panels off, now is the time for a good cleanup, adding insulation or sound deadening materials that don't impair reinstalling the interior. This area also appears perfect for storing Trailer Hitch, Ball(s), Recv'r. Lock, etc.

Since I plan to fully utilize the Factory Reese Trailer Hitch ( another day, a different topic ), I pulled the (6) + 1 harness from behind the Jack - you can see it wrapped up between the sheetmetal and the instr. sheet. The " + 1 " is the Red wire on top of the sheet - it is roughly 2X the wire size of the other 6. The 6 pin Connector is just out of view located down in the bot. rt. corner where the Red wire originates.

Shop rag used for rattling noise and when you are done w/ the tire. Yeah, just look at your hands!!! Or do you keep gloves ( in a sealed bag ) there?


52
(3) Locator Tabs and Release Latch


53
Drvr. Jack storage cover - Back view - (2) more locator Tabs, Release Latch and 1/4" foam, and get this, it is like brand new - seriously. Why didn't GM use this foam formulation in all locations??????? Note the dark spot above the rubber Latch fastener - waxy stuff, squeak deadener spots, which showed up here and there. Don't just clean it off and forget it.


54
Here you see an interesting item - It's an expanding rubber "mandrel" style retainer. Push the outside lever down, the rubber "balloons" out within the Locator shown in Photo 51.

There are also a few places where this waxy, gaskety ( is that a word? ), putty like stuff is squeezing out of where panels rub against each other used to stop vibrations and squeaking. You should probably mark the locations, clean it off and use a replacement material like a couple dabs of clear silicone caulk, but keep it sorta' thin. Insulated tape may work.


55
Drvr. sd. (4) Rear AC Vent Duct trim screws-phillips - (4) Retainers inside above the Vents.
Photo was taken a little bit out of order. Probably not the only one either, but I think it still works.

Your Van w/o Rear AC will have a much simpler Rear Ceiling Trim above the doors or hatch and of course no Vert. Rear AC Duct.


56
(4) Rear AC Vent Duct trim screw - Locations. Using them to hold the PITA headliner material before cutting the excess off. Really, keeping as much of this cloth intact and liberal use of sheets, tarps and towels will help keep you and your "stuff" clean. Sort of...


57
Drvr. sd. - location of 2 of 4 Rear AC Vent Duct Retainers and 2 of 4 phillips screws - there's also 2 of each on the other sd.
Vans w/o Rear AC may use a different set of Retainer and Pin locations, some of which can be seen here.


58
With the Back end (4) screws out... --- ##### Now this a bit out of order, but you will have to remove the Drvr. sd. Rear AC Cover Panel and the (2) 5/16 Screws at the bottom of the "Vert. AC Duct" - see photos 71-73. ##### ---

...the Pass. side Retainers can be pulled straight down about 2-3" and angled while you hold both Duct sections. Should be able to easily separate the two, leaving the Vert. Duct standing. Missing one of the retainers may have helped me in this case.

Neither piece is very heavy and the Vert. Duct has no real breakable parts except that the Tab and the Retainers that are held captive on them instead of on the speaker grill like the Pass. side. And no, I didn't drop it.
Pass. side has a small - 3" X 1" - removable section - I have no idea???


59
Rear AC Vent Duct Fastener and Retainer Locations - Front - marked with Black Tape.


60
Pass. C pillar bottom, location of (4) Retainers and 1 screw - phillips.


61
Pass. Rear Upper - Locator Pins (2), Coat Hook, Seatbelt bracket and Retainers (2) locations.


62
Pass. Rear Lower - (4) retainer and the (3) Jack Panel locators.


63
Pass. Rear Back - fastener locations - (2) phillips screws.


64
Pass. Rear Back fastener locations-(2) phillips screws. OK, just a different view...

But look at that wiring, geez - I'll be fixing that with tape and black wire loom.


65
Pass. Rear Trim Panel - Pin, fastener and retainer locations. One screw is seen from the back of the van.
The left "leg" may be loose already from removing the previous Pass. Trim Panel.

Pull straight out at the bottoms of both "legs" 3-4" - use your Retainer Removal Tool at the carpet area Retainers, should hear them "giving way" at carpeted "cross rail", then pull straight down to clear the (2) Pins.


66
Pass. Rear Trim Panel, back view - Pin, fastener and retainer locations. Fair amount of insulation and still in decent shape - actually it was like new. Almost...

One of the retainers was missing. Short on the line that day in Baltimore, I guess.

By now, you have accumulated quite the "Pile o' Stuff". After moving things around 3-10 times trying to make room for more stuff, it dawned on me - why not just stack it up on TOP OF THE VAN. It's not going anywhere, so... done.

Next we (I) remove the Large Driver's side Trim Panel. ( Garnish... hah ).

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Updates:

Well, now I have to get the ladder, climb up on the Van to get parts for further looking or cleaning, whatever. And of course, what I need is always at the bottom, blah, blah, blah.

About the Rear AC Vent "Cut out" - got this from Leeann's "New to her 00' Astro" topic:


This Photo reminded me that the Dutch Doors / Hatch were an option - even in 1993. The electrics / black harness loom runs thru the AC Duct out to the Hatch.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Phase 5: Driver sd. Trim Panel removal


67
Starting behind the Seat, generally moving front to back end, between the B and C pillar - Remove Drvr. sd. Window Latches - (8) phillips, ashtray - (2) phillips, Seatbelt bolt - #50 Torx and B pillar "Leg" - lower trim - phillips screw.

Just some info: In the carpeted area, "inline" w/ the Latch locations are (3) of the (5) Retainers - the Panel has a total of (10) such Retainers.


68
By the Driver sd. C pillar - If you did not take them off when you did the Passenger sd., now is the time. (2) Seatbelts - #50 Torx - just push the soft vinyl aside to ease your bit in, (2) Coat Hangers - phillips screws.

Don't mix up Drvr. and Pass. side Seatbelts - they "face" in diff. directions.

ps: no, that's not a stain on the seat - just a chunk of that blasted Headliner Foam. It's multiplying...
Should have followed my own suggestions... If leaving the seat(s) in - use sheets, etc. for protection.


69
Drvr. sd. Cooler removal - (2) 13 MM bolts. These were difficult to remove till I thought of my speed handle and universal. No problem.

Lift it up slightly 2-3" to disengage the short bottom Tabs and to gain access to pull the Drain line off the bottom fitting.


70
Rubber hose is still in good shape. A screw to remove from the Trim Panel is now visible - marked w/ red hashmark.


71
If equipped, Rear AC Cover to remove. (1) screw only inside the storage compartment to remove.


72
Rear AC cover held on by this #40 Torx bolt inside the storage compartment plus (5) retainers. Speed handle and bit worked great here.


73
(5) Retainer Locations - 2 are just out of frame. Watch out for the Cooler drain line and fitting.


74
5 Retainers plus the Torx bolt. This cover was easily removed, pull straight out.


75
That's some padded insulation there now - 1/2 thick w/ heavy rubber on both sides.
Panel must weigh 10 lbs. Or maybe it just felt like it after a long day fighting the vinyl gods...


76
Once the (2) 5/16 screws are removed, the Vertical Duct just sits there on top, held by the Upper Vent Duct system.

If you recall, I removed the "AC Vent Duct" back in Phase 4, refer to photos 55-58, with removal tips at 58.


80 ( yup - I skipped 77-79 )
More trashed foam, messy stuff!! - here it's a gasket going from the AC unit to the Vertical Duct.
The AC unit's top is slightly tapered for a wedge fit into the Vert. Duct.

(2) of the (5) Retainer Locations in that "row" are shown.


81
Drvr. sd., Near the C and D pillars, Coat Hook, Pin and Retainer Locations.
Coiled Brown and Yellow wire is for the speaker. Photo 63 shows the other lt. and dk. blue speaker wire.


82
Drvr. sd., Near the C pillar, Coat Hook ( again ), Retainers and Seatbelts - Location, Location, Location... LoL

Sorry I forgot to take a decent shot of all (5) Retainer locations along the carpeted "cross rail" - see photo #84.


83
Drvr. sd., B pillar - (1) Locator Pin, (1) Retainer and (1) phillips screw Location. This screw was probably removed already, it also held the Drvr. sd. above door Trim. Phase 1, photos 21-25 covered the Front Door Trim removal.

If it was not already removed, it will be a lot easier now!!


84
Drvr. sd. - (10) Retainer Locations marked with black tape and red hash marks. (2) Locator Pins are circled and the (2) of (3) phillips screws that are located on the "Legs" of the Panel.

This panel is easiest to remove by pulling the "Legs" out slightly 2-3" at the bottom, work your way up to the carpeted "cross rail". Using that "Special Tool", those (5) pop out pretty easy. When the bottom is out far enough, the top can be pulled down to clear the Locator Pins and Top row Retainers. Remember, this heavy vinyl is fairly strong.

I left the seat in and was still able to lift it out and over at an angle, then pulled it out the side door. Can you say "awkward".

As it turns out - these Panels and the Heavy Vinyl that GM used are Pretty Darn Strong. You have to be doing something really stupid to bust one of these things, then it would probably just bend anyway.

Another thing to keep in mind - I did all this work in the HEAT of the Summer with temps around 85-90 F. It's strong, but doing this outside in the middle of Winter, might test it's resiliency ( my goodness - that's 5 syllables - Hangin' around Randy too long... ) -- ;-O .


85
(2) Locator Pins - 0ne broken, (3) Phillips screws and (10) Retainers - (2) of which did not come off w/ the Panel.
Plenty of thick insulation - didn't expect to see much.


86
Between all the Panels, 3 or 5 of these Retainers stayed with or in the Van - It takes 2 pair of pliers to pull them out of their little locator hole ( can you say "Knuckle Scraper" ) - then press it back onto the panel.


87
Broken Locator Pin. Not my fault, dangit now!! - it was laying on top of the drivers seat belt tensioner when I pulled that bottom "leg" out a bit. I do not intend to repair it - just see how it goes back in and deal with it then.


88
Most of the Hardware removed to get at the large Panels. Driver's side on the left.
Small screws and such not included. There really are not that many, but "Bag 'em and Tag 'em" as you go, remember, they all have to go back in.


89
For reaching behind panels, trim and garnish moldings. I made the top one from an old file decades ago - it's kinda' thick, but works. Other one is cabinet maker's nail puller. Covered the metal in elec. tape so they don't mar things up too bad.
Molding removal tools are avail. in most Auto Pts. stores ( $8-$10 ).

Next up is the Seat Belt Spooler and... drum roll, please... ... The Dome Light. Then how to pull the ACTUAL Headliners out and get them on the table for rework, New Console area buildup and adjustment and the Hdlnr. Material itself.

All the Panels, Hardware, Carpet, screws, etc. that were removed that need it will be Cleaned, Replaced or Painted.
Can't wait to try one of the "Light Color" Plastic Paints mentioned here in the forum.

Every surface now visible will be cleaned and touched up and any rust dealt with. Cables, Harnesses and Wires are to be taped or "loomed", tidied up and stowed.

Since I will be pulling out all the Carpet and insulation on the floor - the Lower Trim will have to be removed - so that will push the reinstallation of the Hdlnr. and Trim Panels I just removed back until the rest of the Interior stuff is done. And it will get done RIGHT HERE!!!.

Comments and Suggestions are most welcome and appreciated and basically ignored... LOL
But I bet someone else on here would appreciate any additions to my posts so far.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Phase 6: Seat Belt Retracter ( SBR ) Cover & Dome Light removal:


90
Not sure if all Astro / Safari models and "Trim Levels" had all these Different types and styles of Seat Belts, Seat Belt Latches, Retractors, Spoolers, Pillar attached, Seat attached, Ceiling attached, Stand-alone, Hanging, Stand Up, etc, blah, blah. I know this: my Van has AT LEAST - 1 OF EACH.

Here is the Fr. view of the Rt. sd. - Middle Seat - SBR showing the 5/16 hole that I used with a 6" lg. std. 1/4" Screwdriver to POP two ( 3 total ) of the Retainers loose on that sd. and in back. These (2) came out/dn. real easy, without marring or divoting the Hdlnr. substrate.

The screwdriver tip goes in and rests against the SBR Body, then pull dn. firmly, just till those two clear - couldn't say the same for the third one. See also photos 92 & 93


91
Wish I could throw all this Seat Belt material in the washing machine - they are all dirty and stained to some degree. Wash and Scrub in place I guess.

This is the side view, showing how big this cover is and only because it is used to help hold both Hdlnrs. up in that area and to hide infamous GM ceiling shenanigans.


92
Same side view - note the back Retainer locator is also used to hold the Rear Hdlnr. Section in place. So... if you were thinking of Replacing the Rear Hdlnr. only - you will have to Release all the Retainers and "Hook n' Loop" fasteners on the Rear of the Main Hdlnr. too, not to mention the sd. and rr. Interior Panels.

Also note the "Da Vinci" style screwdriver rendering pointing the way to the "Body / Cover Prying Position" ( Love those GM Technical terms ) described in photo 90 above.


93
On the left is the 3rd Retainer, which decided it would like to stay with the ceiling. I tried a long screwdriver in the gap between the ceiling and cover to reach it, as I could see up in there and try pulling it out of the slot.

No luck - I reached up with both hands and lightly tugged it down and out. OK, fib there... at his point, I just jammed my fingers under it and literally YANKED it down with all my might - these Retainers are "NASA Strong" - figuring now is the time to see just how strong this Vinyl is. Findings: even tho' it's a different kind than the previous panels, this Vinyl/Plastic is still darn tough.

Looking toward the back of the Van and assuming all 3 are same style Retainer ( ya' never know w/ GM ), you might try using the Sliding door track as leverage for your "Special Tool", whilst pulling down w/ your screwdriver for other two. Just sayin'. Oh and remember to try and PLAN where you will collapse and fall to...

Yup, it's "2 pair of Pliers and knuckle/elbow/chin injuries" time again. If there is a better way, I'd pay money for the answer! But once it's out, just push it back on the Cover - good to go.


94
Speaking of, here's the inside of the SBR Cover - note missing Retainer. Also, while there is a access hole on the back to release it, the Buckle will come thru the hole, no need to remove it from the belt.

"Fanfare please... queue the Dancing Ladies in flowing white gowns and..."

Dome Light Removal:


95
Well, first, The front of the Van is to the left for the "orientation challenged" folks out there. This is the single ( waddayameanya donecarry thisun' ) bulb model.

And they ARE good ones - I know for a fact these OEM bulbs WILL burn for MANY, MANY, MANY days & nights and never burn out - I know because I have TOTALLY discharged my Battery ( not even a click ) 4 times and the bulbs just laugh and mutter, "HAH !!, we eat batteries for brea...."

It probably didn't help me a bit that there are, what seems like, 162 ( LOL - ok 22 ) lights that come on with the doors, dome/dimmer, light's switch - those lights love Battery Amps. Glove compartment got me last time... drat!


96
Lense ( lens ? ) removed - revealing (2) 9/32 screws. Poor GM, now they ran out of 5/16 - I think they would have fit, but in the true GM tradition - Gotta' mix and match all these fasteners, right?


97
Here I am loosening the Drvr. sd. screw, after breaking it loose ( it was so tight, the plastic squeaked ).


98
This screw wasn't even finger tight. But now it's out of there.


99
Underside shows me there are no "Spade" connectors here, so cannot pull the wires off it.

And on another note - if you plan to use a "newer" Dome/Reading Lamp unit, you will have to run wiring for the Reading lamps, as they use / are on a different Ground circuit just like the New Fr. OH Console ( and Old Console ) that I am installing after the Hdlnr. is done.


100
I want to remove the Wires, Clips and Bulb Holders from the Base, so here I am right after pulling the Bulb out. It was kinda' tight after sitting there 22 years, so used needle nose pliers on the end tab.

Pliers: 1, Bulb: 0. Gosh - hope it still works !!


101
Pulling the wire stuff off - Not gonna happen... so...


102
I'll just tuck it up here - and yes, I kept the bulb out for safekeeping, knowing full well I'll probably loose it somewhere.

"Bag n' Tag" em' - (2) screws, (1) bulb and...


103
The Lens ( Lense ? ) Cover or Light Cover, whatever. Look ma'... NO BUGS !! , just a little Headliner Dust... It's a "Sign", by golly.

At this point, all that is left is to "Release The Velcro". The Headliners themselves are next.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Removing the Front Headliner Section:

The Front or Main Hdlnr. is held up right now by "ONLY" 8 pieces of 4" lg. X 1.5" wd. Maximum Severe Duty Heavy Gauge - "Mars Mission Ready" - Velcro strips. What the Engineers saved in cheap foam, they spent it on the Very Best Velcro money could buy.

Thinking of changing these out and using them for Emergency motor mounts - Geez. Keep them in my Van toolbox next to the box of "Hanger Iron". LOL

The Velcro Strips are arranged in 4 rows: Fr., Mid Fr., Mid Rr. and Rr. - mounted on the Back portion of the "RIBS" ( or Joists ) of the ceiling.

The Back Hdlnr. is held up by (2) white plastic "Tree" Retainers and (2) of the Velcro strips in the middle of it. The "wayback" is held up by the AC Vent Duct, if equipped, or a Trim Panel. Believe me, there is absolutely NO chance that either of these fall or come apart from the Ceiling.

If you just pull the Hdlnr. down without releasing the Strips, 1 or both of 2 things happen: 1 - You pull the "Male" part with the (2) Tree Retainers out of the Ceiling and down with an intact hdlnr. or 2 - you bust a complete section of the daggum thing in half or crack it, while the Velcro just stays put and laughs behind your back. It's surprisingly stout, but sneakily fragile.

Here's how I avoided a costly and time consuming repair job:

There are some "features" on the Hdlnr. that line up with certain locators on the ceiling, which will help with the Re-Install. I would also suggest a few more "Alignment" marks that would aid in the positioning of the Newly Re-upolstered Hdlnr., with it's awkward size, weight and shape.

Starting at the front, Seats are in their fully upright and locked positions, everything that I could cover and protect, is:


104
Here on the Drvr. sd., it was looser, so I pulled it down enough to shine a light and see the edge of the velcro pad. I did not want to force my whole arm in there - yes, GM put them "just outa' reach", unless you have a trained upholstering wizard / skinny-armed orangutan available.

That screwdriver is about 12" long including the handle and I'm still a bit from it. A dull edged putty knife taped to a 20" stick would kick their a$$es. Gotta' separate the 2 "layers", male / female ( female is fuzzy - OK? ) halves?


105
I have just released the Pass. sd. by by forcing the screwdriver tip into the end gap, center, left, rt, deeper, center, left, rt...so on. I left the Drvr. sd. held with 5-10, maybe 20-30, Velcro teeth, while I worked here. Hdlnr. is now close to resting on the seat back on this side.


106
Thinking that there only 3 rows of Velcro, I am reaching for the Pass. sd. Velcro. Got this sd. done, then realized I cannot get to the one on the other side - no door to stand outside of and work.

So I go back up into the ceiling, but thru the sq. Console cutout - that's when I realized there is another row ( Mid. Fr. ) roughly even with the B pillar, which I can reach fairly easily.


107
Drvr. sd., Mid. Fr. Velcros accessible thru the cutout - note the Console Bracket attached to the Ceiling "Rib". Do the other side from here also.

If needed, the Middle Rear Velcros can also be reached - 1 Rib back.


108
Looking up at the B pillar, Hdlnr. "Flaps" and Sliding Door track - which is also attached to the same Rib as the Console Bracket. Reaching up in here, seems/feels to me this Velcro is loose already, from getting the others loose and moving it around, I guess. But it will not fall down - the Flaps hold it up.


109
Another view of the Flaps - outlined in blue. This area is the 2nd most fragile area, and will come out last - when you can move the entire Hdlnr. laterally toward the Driver's side.


110
If you did not already work on the Middle Rr. set of Velcros - the Drvr. sd. can be reached thru the Console cutout or from the Pass. sd. as shown here - they are "even" with that Roof Rack support ( or reach both Mid. Rr. Velcros from here with a long enough tool ).


111
First 6 Velcros separated, resting on the Drvr. Seatback, hanging from the Flaps, still feels/seems fairly strong. At this point, and all along, I thought the fiberglass substrate would have been weaker.


112
Don't recall there being any fastener or Velcro on this VERY FRAGILE Flap of Hdlnr. to hold it up. It was just stuck up there a bit till I pulled the Seatbelt thru it.

It has a Cardboard backing, just flaking off. You can see my fingerprints around the Velcro location.

I just reached up behind and worked it off by hand, stuck it back on a little to hold while I loosened the Drvrs. sd. Once mostly loose, I put my back against the fuel filler hump and seat, held the Hdlnr. over the Drvr. Seat with my left hand, pulled the remaining "lightly held" Velcro loose with my right.

Then with all Velcro Strips loose, I pulled evenly toward the window behind me, allowing the Hdlnr. to go down between the inside frame and the Fr. Drvr. Headrest, which freed the "Flap" from over the Sliding Dr. track. All I had to do was steady it down as I scooted out, letting it rest on the seat.


113
Another view of the Rear around the SBR and the Flap. Again, repeating myself... Note for Future: DO WHATEVER IS NECESSARY TO KEEP THE MATERIAL ON THE SUBSTRATE. Staples, duct tape, paper clips, whatever. These dusty pieces of, can they be sticky at the same time?, decompossed foam are the worst.


114
Front Hdlnr. down and now I see why that one Velcro came loose so easy. The Strips are only held to the fiberglass with about about 15 heavy staples - no match for this Velcro. HAHH !!

Next Post - The Back Headliner Section comes out.

Mike
ps: you should be commended for sticking this out... come on, just 1 more Section.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Removing the Back Headliner Section:


115
At the Pass. sd. of the Back Hdlnr. Pull the front edge down slightly, revealing (2) Tree Retainers, up above the Velcro - use a wider tool than a screwdriver, like a heavy putty knife or a wrecking bar to twist them sideways, instead of "levering", and putting a divot or marr in the fragile edge. Reach over and do the other side too.


116
Sometimes Stubborn Tree Retainers out ( say that 3... heck, try saying it once - LOL ) without a crisis.


117
There's the other side Velcro / Retainer above it thingie. Again a wrecking bar will help with the reach over the other Hdlnr.

And just look at that Huge and Heavy Bracket for the Dome Lamp. Deservedly so... Respect, it's all I'm sayin'. - >(;-0)


118
Only two more Velcros - here we reach for and separate the Drvr. sd. - be careful, there is a Ridge that's higher than the Strip, makes it a little tougher to get at the sides of them. Now go for the other side and catch the Hdlnr. before it tumbles.


119
Pointing out the two Velcro Strips, that "Ridge" and the two tools I used - on the right is the light rubber coated wrecking bar. Strange one indeed.


120
Just wanted to show off MY Trouble Light. Got it free out of a dumpster years ago, with the bulbs in it - I did put a 10 foot cordset on it and a chain/hook to hang it where I need. Can't beat the sheer volume of light - and it's not HOT.

Next up - we take a close up look at the Hdlnrs. and the Van Ceiling. Need to see what repairs can be made, what I will need to do to make the New Console work and of course, clean all of the nasty, pasty, sticky old glue and foam junk off before even thinking of gluing the Material on.

See you then.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Morning,

OK, So I took a few liberties with the Dome Light breakdown - I made it sound like "the wait was on for it". Yeah, it was a ruse. ( wife says: 10 pts. for the use of "ruse" before 10 am... )

I suppose I should call and wake everyone up that fell asleep during Hdlnr. "flap" positioning and say...

"It was all in fun, really, I know nobody cares about no stinkin' dome lights".

In the background, behind the glaring lights, I hear muttered, "Geez, Mike, tear into that engine or drivetrain already, get some "real" dirt under those nails."

Well, it's my build and I'll say whatIwanna'. And have some fun and a few laughs while describing what has turned out to be a DROLL SUBJECT.

Mike "plodding on..." in Ky. Here's something for a change: :blah: , :blah: , :blah:
 
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