[BadByte]

I'm almost done making the bracket. Used cad to design it...(Cardboard Aided Design that is).
I'll start a build thread this weekend after my 14-16 hour work days will be over....sigh...overtime, good and evil at the same time.

Thanks Mmusicman for inspiring me to do the conversion as well.

 

[Mmusicman]

Thanks Mmusicman for inspiring me to do the conversion as well.

Cool! You're next! Glad to be an inspiration!
Like I said.. we look forward to seeing your progress and build completion!

(now if I JUST had a nice off-road place to try mine out.. lol)

 

[BadByte]

Mmusicman wrote:
Cool! You're next! Glad to be an inspiration!
Like I said.. we look forward to seeing your progress and build completion!

My Astro upgrade journey has begun...

https://www.astrosafari.com/viewtopic.p ... 7&t=136394

 

[Mmusicman]

My Astro upgrade journey has begun...
https://www.astrosafari.com/viewtopic.p ... 7&t=136394

That's some FANTASTIC looking work BadByte!!! Nice engineering!!!
Beside your link...I wanted to be sure to include a couple of your photos on this thread too!
Obviously, when you have the materials and welding equipment.. anything is possible!

I really enjoy seeing all the "different ways" a manual modification can be accomplished!
Well done sir!!! I have no doubt it will work GREAT!

------------------------------------------------------------

There is also another interesting thread started here, on using a manual 231C case (with splined shafts)...
Easy gen2 231 t-case swap, why haven't I seen this done?

 

[BadByte]

Nice engineering!!! Beside your link...I wanted to be sure to include a couple of your photos on this thread too!
Obviously, when you have the materials and welding equipment.. anything is possible!

I really enjoy seeing all the "different ways" a manual modification can be accomplished!
Well done sir!!! I have no doubt it will work GREAT!

Thanks for the compliments. No problems with using my pics...that's why they are there after all.
I'll snap a few more pics of the tools I was using this weekend...

-old cheap AC welder with flux core wire,
- old (slowly dying) angle grinder, cutoff discs and flapper sanding discs
-makita corded 110 volt AC drill
-permanent marker and pencil
-some string
-and cardboard (for the infamous C.A.D. (Cardboard Aided Design) design process)

I'm not the best at welding but I make up for it by being quite good at grinding... :lol:

 

[Zoddimortal]

I have a 97 astro with a viscous coupler. It seems to work great when mudding. Do you think a true 4x4 upgrade is worth it in my case?

 

[AstroWill]

I have a 97 astro with a viscous coupler. It seems to work great when mudding. Do you think a true 4x4 upgrade is worth it in my case?

If what you have works, why change?

 

[Mmusicman]

I have a 97 astro with a viscous coupler. It seems to work great when mudding. Do you think a true 4x4 upgrade is worth it in my case?

My biggest motivation was the need for a manual 4LO gear range (pulling a heavy load off-road).. otherwise the AWD works fine for most everything else and still gives you 4 wheel drive when needed. The viscous case is nice and trouble free.

 

[Astro Pop]

I'm going with the change over since there are no rebuild parts for the BW4472. And I've got a clunking from it.

 

[Mmusicman]

FINAL TWEAKS:

I don't think anyone has ever mentioned this... but it's possible the 233 case (being notably smaller) may put the output shaft a little lower and at a little more of an angle to the driveshaft. The rear trans-mount mounting pad might sit at a different height position. While I haven't had any vibrations, the angle variation at the u-joint is quite noticeable. I tried to take measurements, but couldn't get anything accurate. It did measure roughly 4-5 degree angle difference between yoke and driveshaft... visible to the eye.

So I shimmed up the rear trans mount using some thick washers/spacers.
I estimate overall about 3/4" (or more) of spacers total.

The old angle (not the best photo)...

The corrected angle after spacers (looks much better)...

My spacers (under trans mount)...

Besides under the mount... a couple more (not in picture) were added between the mount and case.
The angle appears much better, and is smooth on the highway.
I also gained an additional inch or two higher clearance, especially at the driveshaft.

------------------------------------------------------------

FINAL CHAPTER:

Well... the job isn't really completed until the finishing touches.. until the badges are applied!
I can't decide which one I like better.. or if I'll just keep both!

#1

#2

The badges were just a few bucks on ebay (from china)

Two "different" badges (on the rear) may be overdoing it.. I want it to look "factory".
I also intend to add #1 to the side doors (remove AWD and replace it with 4x4)

I have chome 4x4 badges too.. but the red seemed to more closely follow the factory AWD scheme.

 

[nosxjeep]

Interesting catch on the driveline angle... hmmm...

I replied on your other thread too, but #1, but down to the right of "Astro".

Lookin' GOOD!

 

[Mmusicman]

I replied on your other thread too, but #1, but down to the right of "Astro".

I might consider that too... good suggestion.
That would follow the AWD scheme perhaps even better... hmmm...

Interesting catch on the driveline angle... hmmm...

I'd like to see whoever does this next, to see if they can take a measurement (from ground up to yoke) on AWD vs 233 case. None the less, it's obvious to me that the yoke should be inline with the driveshaft (or as close as possible) with minimal angle.

 

[Mmusicman]

UPDATE NOV 2018:

The 4x4 upgrade has been GREAT!!! I've actually used it a few times for work in 4-Lo pulling a heavy 2-ton tow-lift off-road.
You learn there are a few tricks getting in and out of 4x4 mode. It has worked FLAWLESSLY!
When I'm not using it... the shifter is tucked low, out of the way, and forgotten.

I just recently had an issue where I blew my driveshaft out of the tail-shaft while hard braking. I always suspected my yoke was not engaged far enough.. and between engine movement and rear-end flex (while hard braking) it was enough to cause my driveshaft to be ejected.

The 233 case itself is barely about a 1/4" or so shorter.. so it's not really to blame. Even with my stock AWD case, my yoke always sat out further than it should have. This may have something to do with my lift.. but has been this way (for me) for many years.

This photo shows how far the yoke has been engaged (for years)... although actually showing where the seal rides.
The output shaft actually saw slightly more than 2" of engagement on a 5" long slip yoke.
It also more than likely just barely engaged the output bushing, which is further inside the unit.

I had a new driveshaft built exactly 2"s longer than stock...
(stock AWD shaft is 35" long.. my new shaft is 37" long)

This photo shows how far out it was BEFORE:

And here's a shot AFTER:
It came out perfect!

This likely won't be an issue for most, but you should verify where you are at.
Visually you will be able to tell.

You can read the FULL DETAILS of MY drive-shaft story at:
https://www.astrosafari.com/viewtopic.p ... ead#unread

The journey continues!

 

[Jester]

UPDATE NOV 2018:

I had a new driveshaft built exactly 2"s longer than stock...
(stock AWD shaft is 35" long.. my new shaft is 37" long)

I'm curious how much did the new driveshaft cost? Did you have a local shop do the build and did they extend an existing shaft or build and balance a new one from scratch? Looks like your old one had a dent in it and needed to be replaced but I suppose that could have happened when it dropped out.

 

[nosxjeep]

I'd really love a link to that $12 gasket seal kit you found for the 233.
It's either not up anymore or my interneting skills are not as good as I thought.
:think:

 

[half_astro]

Thank you for this thread! I just finished doing my own 233 swap thanks to the information in these posts.

I have two outstanding issue that I haven't solved yet.

Number One: On the NP136 case, the male vent component faces towards the front of the van. On the NP233, the male component faces to the rear of the van, and the breather hose is too short in its stock location to reach the male component on the transfer case. I assumed that I can just get in there and adjust the clips to slide the hose closer to the transfer case, but I can't reach the end of the breather hose to get it unclipped. Is this something that anyone else has had to fix? Longer tubing? A secret to finding the end of the hose? Can the male component on the transfer case be rotated, or will I just break it if I attack it with a wrench? I've attached an image of the t-case and breather hose as they line up now.

Number two: The NP233 case has a vacuum switch on it, and I didn't think anything of it until this morning when the t-case was already installed. Will leaving this on the case have any effect on performance? Should I find a way to plug the holes on the vacuum switch, or is it fine to leave as is?

 

[Mmusicman]

1) Just simply extend the hose. Use a barrel (or some form of hard tube) to couple your extension hose on to the stock hose. I used rubber fuel hose as my extension. Make a nice wide smooth u-shaped bend so it doesn't kink the hose. Be sure to use clamps in each location.. my extension hose came off and blew fluid all over the place.

2) The vacuum switch is irrelevant... just ignore it.
The vacuum side is isolated from the inside.

 

[sixsix]

It may have been mentioned here before...
or you heard it elsewhere too...

But - half_astro - HAS to be One of "The Best Forum Handles Ever"

at least on the Van sites...

Mike

 

[half_astro]

1) Just simply extend the hose. Use a barrel (or some form of hard tube) to couple your extension hose on to the stock hose. I used rubber fuel hose as my extension. Make a nice wide smooth u-shaped bend so it doesn't kink the hose. Be sure to use clamps in each location.. my extension hose came off and blew fluid all over the place.

Thanks Mmusicman! I picked up about a foot of heat and pressure resistant tubing at home depot to make this extension. Inner diameter of 3/8 is a close fit to the vent coupling, and I used hose clamps to tighten it down. I hadn't seen this issue listed anywhere, so here's hoping this helps the next person who does this before they start.

 

[half_astro]

But - half_astro - HAS to be One of "The Best Forum Handles Ever"

Thanks Mike! It's hard not to feel inferior to some of the builds on here. I'll make it to full_astro status someday.