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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all !

I’m new here to the astro gmc world of vans. I’ve been looking to junmp into the van life as I use to live in my car.

So my current state is I want to sell my car. I was offered 23k for it I’m near the end of my lease for my place and just don’t want to be confined to an apt house anymore. So the car is great but the space isn’t . So that’s why I’m here.

I really love the Astro’s and GMC they just seem so perfect for size and what I have in mind.

i just don’t know what prices I should be going for, what mileage. Things to avoid and soon, you know the new guy lol 😂 . I want to do this and my minds been dead set on it and my heart wants it an now is my chance !!! So I wa to go all in !

So please anyone who is willing to coach me help me look or even has a decent van to start with a fair price please let me know.

I’m here to learn, listen and grow!
 

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92 stro base
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There are a few right here on this forum listed for sale. They pop up occasionally.
Lately, they seem to sell for a little more than KBB suggests, especially if taken care of, but they are a niche market, people like us looking for them for reasons other than "daily driver" mostly, so that is most likely why. I bought mine for instance to use as a liveable space if needed, and is set up for such, otherwise can be used as a camper, or work vehicle if I decide to go that route again.
Where you are and where they are is your number one hurdle.
Rust, usually underneath and in the frame is what will kill them before anything else, so always pay attention to that.
Peruse the problems and maintenance section and you will find a plethora of information of what to look out for in different generations, years, trims, and drivetrains.
Happy hunting.
 

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2 wheel drive or AWD? First decide which you want. An AWD can be converted to 4x4. Gen one, gen two, or gen three? In my opinion you get what you pay for. Rust is by far the most important issue. At best this van will be 18 years old. The 4.3 v-6 has seen many engine transmissions go to and some above 300 K miles. In my opinion you start looking at some semi major repairs around 150 K. Never overheat one. My van at 130K has had an entire new Front end, new radiator ,water pump, distributor and multiple vacuum lines. Brakes are a given with mileage. Chevy made 3.8 million of these units, however some parts are unavailable new and some are getting tough in the used market. Look in non rust areas to purchase. Pacific north west. Arizona California ECT. Mine is not for sale, but it would take at least 10 K to even start the conversation. ( I have some upgrades ) enjoy the hunt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I have a guy with an AWD one for 300, said it just needs breaks. Sais it run and drives good. I def want AWD.
He did say it would need to be towed I’d assume because it needs breaks it has 132k miles on it

Also if I happen to get this thing I don’t know what type of trailer is used would tow these Types of vans

but for 300 bucks and the condition its In I mean man it’s almost to good of a deal but I’m willing to gamble because I’d drop 3 k in to in easy
 

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1998 LS AWD Forest Green metallic
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If it will start and run, and the motor sounds OK, it is worth more than that for parts, even if the body and frame are heavily rusted and falling apart. Does it come with a title?

If you have the time, space, finances, ability and desire to do the work on it yourself, and the body and frame is in decent condition, it sounds like it would be a great project.
If you are planning on doing the necessary repairs, get the frame checked for significant rust issues. Depending upon where it has lived most of it's life, rust could be the reason is is so cheap. It may only be useful for spare parts. You may have your very own Pick'n'Pull!
Good luck.
Rod J
Issaquah, WA
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
If it will start and run, and the motor sounds OK, it is worth more than that for parts, even if the body and frame are heavily rusted and falling apart. Does it come with a title?

If you have the time, space, finances, ability and desire to do the work on it yourself, and the body and frame is in decent condition, it sounds like it would be a great project.
If you are planning on doing the necessary repairs, get the frame checked for significant rust issues. Depending upon where it has lived most of it's life, rust could be the reason is is so cheap. It may only be useful for spare parts. You may have your very own Pick'n'Pull!
Good luck.
Rod J
Issaquah, WA
From what I’m
Looking at how it looks in the photos it was well kept but again a picture isn’t always 100%

I don’t have a place to store it but I can work on one if I had it and it running withno major problems. From how this is described and looks it’s in to good to be true shape and I mean it look very clean. Aside from the dirty dust on it lol 🤣

if it’s running And just need breaks and tires it’s a steal! Only thing I need to trailer it about 4 hours and need to figure the best way ?

My brother and law wants to help me build it
 

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1998 LS AWD Forest Green metallic
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You can rent a U-haul truck and trailer, or just the trailer if needed. I hear many car trailers are just narrow enough that the Astro needs the space saver spares put on the front to clear. I do not know if that is true, but something to check, before renting a trailer.
There are also Tow dollies, but that would require removing the rear drive shaft for towing.
If you have access to a truck that can tow it, a tow dolley would probably your best/cheapest bet, but be prepared for some difficulty getting the drive line out. They can be a real bear, if the bolts are rusted. Under vehicle access, in the tain or cold or both...you get the idea. Go prepared with correct tools, floor jack and jack stands etc.
Rod J
Issaquah, WA
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You can rent a U-haul truck and trailer, or just the trailer if needed. I hear many car trailers are just narrow enough that the Astro needs the space saver spares put on the front to clear. I do not know if that is true, but something to check, before renting a trailer.
There are also Tow dollies, but that would require removing the rear drive shaft for towing.
If you have access to a truck that can tow it, a tow dolley would probably your best/cheapest bet, but be prepared for some difficulty getting the drive line out. They can be a real bear, if the bolts are rusted. Under vehicle access, in the tain or cold or both...you get the idea. Go prepared with correct tools, floor jack and jack stands etc.
Rod J
Issaquah, WA
Was just looking at that uhaul is clutch on a lot of stuff!
I also wanted to ask about a 95 safari with under 70k miles it’s a bit up there around 6k I think

woukd it be worth that or should I try to avoid them I’ve real a lot on here that says stay away from the 95 model
 

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I also wanted to ask about a 95 safari with under 70k miles it’s a bit up there around 6k I think

woukd it be worth that or should I try to avoid them I’ve real a lot on here that says stay away from the 95 model
70,000 mi, if properly maintained, is barely broken in from our point of view. but age alone can be a huge factor when it comes to performance, even if the body and chassis are clean. rubber and plastic parts & lines harden, get brittle, leak, crack, etc...

as far as "staying away" from a '95...nobody actually says that. some do say they don't want the headache...the problem is that there can and usually will be an unpredictable mix of Gen 1 and Gen 2 parts and features. once you determine what you have, the repair or replacement for either Gen will be similar. "be prepared" to learn on the fly is better advice than "stay away."

i paid $6K for my '95 with 100,000 mi, and have pumped another $4-6K* into it for a "like new" driving experience, and have zero regrets.

*quite a bit of that was elective and preemptive, and not necessarily needed (yet)
 

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Also,again .."Where are you at located?" means a lot of specific "locale" advise and what to watch out for in purchasing one in your area. It can also be informative if you need access to parts.Some areas in the USA are great for that,like having You-Pick-n-Pull type junkyards.Others are not so much and can become pricey to have everything shipped in or bought at local dealerships($tealerships)..
 

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I've had no issues finding or getting parts for my 95. I did the V8 swap because it's something Ive always wanted to do, and still have no issues finding parts- new or used. About the only thing I even gave a thought to was the transmission. When mine went out a buddy found me one locally, it went in without issue. I saved the old one for rebuild if it's ever needed. I also have the one from the junkyard G20 donor van, same year. Even if you can't find a 95 transmission when you need it, there's ways around that with parts from the original.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I’m in Maryland atm, but I’m not looking in my local area we have nothing over here for sale or it’s just a bait pic to get you to see there other cars most the people I’ve come across are hiding truth in what’s wrong with there van or it has rust or no title or just shady all around !

kinda why I’m looking for a van.ls all over the place so I can’t leave Maryland and live on the open road mean and my PUPPERS 😀

I currently have a 2021 corolla I’m trying to sell to the dealer to use to buy the van , BUT IT has to be decent and reasonable in price I would definitely put money into one but really can’t store it to work on it long term. I’m not against putting money into one but I’m not looking for a whole protect from scratch.

I’m open to other types of vans, but my biggest hurdle is the Maryland inspection is rough over here they pick out every fine detail of a vehicle. So getting the most info with out actually being able to physically go see one is hard ! But I’m determined to do this I’ve been at this for a year and it’s really what I want to do .

about 3 years ago I lived in my carl for a year as a trial run in Cali to see how I would feel and I made the whole year and LOVED IT! Now I’m ready to plunge !

i will take all the help I can , all the info I can
 

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Will you be staying in Maryland? If not, why jump through their hoops?

I used to get notifications from a government auction site, but then they wanted a credit card number just to stay registered.

Good luck and welcome aboard!
 

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Joe....
It sounds like maybe you need to look south ( Florida, etc., or a long way west) for a decent example.
They are occasionally listed and some 'seem' to look pretty good, but the newest ones are still almost 20 years old.
I recently picked up a 2000 Ford E-350 ( Econoline extended van) for a cousin. They have quite a bit more space inside, and the roof is also a bitare a bit higher. They are very popular vehicles for carpet layers, being 11 feet from seat backs to rear doors.
Rod J
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Will you be staying in Maryland? If not, why jump through their hoops?

I used to get notifications from a government auction site, but then they wanted a credit card number just to stay registered.

Good luck and welcome aboard!
No way I won’t be staying here I want out so bad when my dad passed away his dream was to leave md but his health declined so this is for him and me !

I thought you need a residence and license in the state you are registering the vehicle?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Joe....
It sounds like maybe you need to look south ( Florida, etc., or a long way west) for a decent example.
They are occasionally listed and some 'seem' to look pretty good, but the newest ones are still almost 20 years old.
I recently picked up a 2000 Ford E-350 ( Econoline extended van) for a cousin. They have quite a bit more space inside, and the roof is also a bitare a bit higher. They are very popular vehicles for carpet layers, being 11 feet from seat backs to rear doors.
Rod J
I was reading that the e series were great ones. I’ve been looking over in florida It’s a hunt what’s price we looking at for a road ready van ?
 

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Astros or Safaris are probably too small for a guy and three DOGS(might be pups now..but later..) It's crowded with two people.

I had a 2001 Ford E series 3/4 ton(cargo model with "operable" side window in the slider door and rear ones) with the Triton V8(from 2008-2020?) which are quite popular with the working class and still got about the same mileage on the road as Astros and Safaris..say 15-18MPG on Hwys and that extra 2-3 feet of length gives you a lot more room.
There are lots of those vans out there.The 2001 didn't change up until something like 2015? or so...but the changes were minor like Ford emblem,license plate placement and putting in crappier plastic bins and shelves inside,so the other works remained the same so there are lots of parts available out there,and pretty universal fit or change for those years.
I bought mine from a contractor friend and I took him to pick up his new one,driving his old one,then mine..around 2015?..so we compared them sitting side by side.We liked the 2001 better for interior quality METAL cabinet/shelves parts..and one can't really tell them apart outside unless you owned the two,and they were about 14 years apart! He gave me his new bumpers and bought chrome ones for his.I stuck with my old rear one,just painted it to match..because it had the step/hitch and easier to get in and out of that way.The metal cabinets held more weight and not as bulky inside.

The Triton 5.4 engine has a system of 8 coils and fuel injectors,one above each cylinder..and the recommended spark plug change is at 100K!..shows you the longevity of those engines. Maintenance isues/space can be as tight as Astros around the engines requiring extensions with spark plugs 4" down inside with Injectors and Coils right over the plugs,easy to change out the Is and Cs.Don't expect to do much less swearing in that aspect..just less often.From 77K to 135K,I only changed the plugs once overall but had some codes that drove me nuts until I changed 1 spark plug to a hotter one..and the problem was solved. You kind of have to figure coils,injectors,O2 sensors are $50 each but the OBD2 codes are usually pretty specific to the cylinder/problem.,,and most are easy to get to and replace..without having to jack up the vehicle;lots more room and clearance under there

The walls are straighter so they are easier to finish out inside,mostly just with plywood sheets over insulation.. and most are used for construction(contractors,plumbing,electrical,remodelers,and the carpet lay-ers with that longer version yet(need a separate bathroom?)..Overall mpg might be down on those longer extended ones(?) and more bottom end wear from packing more weight) are usually bare when you get them..if all the cabinets are removed;or easy to remove and reassemble in different layouts if you want only some inside,more room in A/S in the medium/common length.. I finished mine out inside around the cabinets using the white "Abiti"(?) board.a kind of waterproof hardboard coated with a white hardwood surface.The panel areas have an indent at just the right depth for that and self tapper screws to make the side walls flat inside..easy!

The price here in the Pacific Northwest with somewhat the same climate as yours and RWD runs about $8-12K,but the new ones now are about $30-40K and probably not much different other than the newer body style "added parts".4x4 used are $20K and up.. and hard to find,lower mpg,etc..

I was going to convert my Ford for camping but it was stolen a year ago last Christmas..but I paid $8K back in 2008 and the insurance paid out $12.5K for the van with 135k Milers on it in really good cosmetic condition.Most last like Astros and don't need much for 200/300K.

You can tow most larger things with it..more than an Astro.

I've built a camper out of my Extended Astro,but things are really tight just as a weekend camper for two of us at 5-7 and 5-0.Dogs would end up in your face or lap in a shorter vehicle like an Astro.Having even a couple extra feet for length would have made a huge difference in storage(we have minimal),sleeping areas(eating and sleeping means having to change layout for each activity.

Some Astros have rear vents in odd places like right where you want to build in a cabinet and just inside the rear doors(you can't sit on a bench there without hitting your head for the first foot inside the door,,if it has rear Heat/AC.like in my newer 2004.

Those year Ford vans are more reliable overall,not finicky about things like fuel pumps,countless sensors/grounds,etc.. and you can get parts in just about any smaller town because the vehicles are well used all over from farming to city vehicles.It seems like 95% are "white" and therefore the exterior parts are "prepainted" 😁when you need one... the right color.

Just things to think about! If I was in your position..I'd consider looking into them.I went "Astro" because I'm retired and needed a van only a few times still to carry larger things after the Ford 250 Econoline was stolen..but live near Seattle where parking can be tight(or in ridiculously small spaces) and I needed to work on my 1990 one also..so the engines are the same between my two and the parts/problems are similar,if not the same.. I owned an '86 Astro previously so knew what to expect also as far as problems with them

My Ford..I wouldn't have thought twice about going across the country with it(I knew it well!)..and back. My Astros..I'll carry as many extra parts and sensors as I can.

Okay guys..I'm not putting down A/S(I own them also!)..but in this person's shoes,pets,mechanic-a-bility,..it might be a better option for him..
Sorry about the long post..
 
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