[yoshmyster]

So for a few weeks the headlights been taking longer to come on after flipping the switch on my '94. Typically 2 - 5 Mississippi but tonight I stopped counting and got in to the other ride. Flipped the stick to activate the high beam and no dice. Also the little blue light that indicates the high beam didn't come on either.

So I get to check the fuse, the grounds, headlights (it's been a minuet since I replaced the whole bulb) and the feared four wire cluster that resides behind the battery (at least I fear it). I hope it's just the fuse of corrosion on the bulb or on the fire wall.

 

[VannyD]

Try cleaning up you ground from battery to firewall. These headlights take a significant ground to fire them up. I assume you have the sealed bulb version. I got so sick of losing the headlights that I replaced the sealed unit with upgraded halogens. They take less ground to fire.

Best of luck. Keep her running.

 

[yoshmyster]

I found the fuse panel under the driver's foot area. Here's my thought "they" could've put the silly thing behind the fake glove box thing on the passenger side. Being a '94 no air bag so it's a perfect location. One could sit in comfort and deal with the fuses.

Anyhow. Pushed all the fuses to make sure they were all seated. Some did move under my thumb but didn't make the headlights come on. Moved on to the grounding wires on the body panel. The ones I could see easily were clean (being in the engine compartment). While in the engine compartment I wiggled the four wire cluster behind the battery and they were soft. I was expecting brittle crunchy mess but nope.

Before going in deeper (as in gloving up) I used a little more force on the switch and they came on with the usual Mississippi count. So I thought that can't be the fix. Sure enough I guess it is my fix. I reckon I need to pull the switch panel out and see if I can clean the contacts or replace the silly thing. So I'll be looking for the switch panel before I take the thing out. just incase I break it.

The 3 - 5 second delay is odd though. Must be a bad contact.

 

[ehbrown1]

You might want to save yourself a little headache syndrome and start with the switch. If memory serves, there is nothing between the battery, headlight switch and headlights (other then fuses and connectors). If all the fuses and connections look good, your switch is most likely the problem.

Take the switch out, disassemble it, inspect it for burns or corroded circuitry, clean it with contact cleaner, just wipe the surfaces of the resistor panel and copper etching with WD40. DO NOT USE GREASE !!!!! We have seen whatever lubricant they use from the factory turn to glue-like varnish and stop contact between the mating surfaces.

If you can clean it and get it back together, your problem is most likely gone. If not, then it gets a little more involved.

 

[Rod's Trucks]

I see no mention of using a meter or a test light when checking connections and fuses.
Visuals are good, but actually measuring voltage (or lack of voltage), or seeing a test lamp light up, is a much better procedure.
'Looling good' does not always equal 'testing good'.

 

[yoshmyster]

ehbrown1 - Not gonna bother taking the silly thing apart since the replacement part is $30. I might take it apart (just to see where it failed) but not to reuse.

Rod's Trucks - I got to "a" answer before I needed to get out the tools. I'll take luck over skill any day.

 

[yoshmyster]

Took the old switch apart and there was a good bit of Crisco like a 1/4 tea spoons worth for I don't know why? There was a bit of carbon and I suppose the switch could have been "serviced"? Since it took like 15 minuets to take the whole bezel off I ain't gonna re-use the switch. They could have had the switch side pop out like the heater lever sides but they didn't.

Job done and I reckon it'll be good for 200k miles. Most likely she'll be in the junk yard way before getting another 200k or seeing 29 years.

 

[gwd]

What part did you replace? Part number?
Maybe some one else might have a similar problem.

 

[yoshmyster]

What part did you replace? Part number?
Maybe some one else might have a similar problem.

The light switch. Standard Motor Products Headlight Switch Part DS-381.