[Goobyb4u8]

Im getting ready to buy an NP233c to swap into my 2000 GMC Safari and have been looking at a bunch of the swap postings and it looks very straight forward and well within my skill set to pull off. I have been looking at the shifter kit for the swap from Journey's and also like Mmusicman's setup with the cable.

My question is that my van seems to have some heater ducting that runs next to/under the drivers seat where the shift lever from the Journey's kit would mount. Has anyone dealt with this situation? do i have to cut through the he heater ducting or remove it in order to be able to install their kit? Has anyone gone the cable route like Mmusicman and been able to avoid going through the ducting?

I like the idea of the cable operation so i can keep the shifter lever as close to the seat as possible as my wife and i want to be able to put a 12v refrigerator in the area between the seats, however i also like the simplicity of the Journeys kit since i dont have a tone of spare time on my hands to fab my own setup.

Thanks,
Goobyb4u8

 

[AstroWill]

I like Mmusicman's setup and I like the route that Gavio went https://www.astrosafari.com/viewtopic.p ... &p=1493504

Anything is better than that other item that looks like it belongs on a tractor.

 

[Sparkydog]

This is what that heater duct looks like under the carpet, except for the 3 holes in the middle - that's my stuff. To the left of the picture is the drivers seat - you can see 1 of the 4 seat mounting studs for each seat to either side of the duct. And the middle section (upside down V) isn't moving air - it's just positioning the two branches of ducting.

 

[Mmusicman]

The heater duct is irrelevant... just drill or cut though it, it won't matter that much.
I did. Or remove it if you like...
With the cable setup.. it totally doesn't matter.
Cable is fastened underneath and simply pushed though..
carpet, insulation, plastic duct, none of this matters.

 

[Goobyb4u8]

The heater duct is irrelevant... just drill or cut though it, it won't matter that much.
I did. Or remove it if you like...
With the cable setup.. it totally doesn't matter.
Cable is fastened underneath and simply pushed though..
carpet, insulation, plastic duct, none of this matters.

I figured that the cable route would'nt be a big deal im more concerned about if i go with the Journey's kit. Since ive never installed one of there kits i dont know if the shift mechanism bolts up inside to the vehicles floor and thus the ducting would be in the way or does it bolt up to the floor from the underside of the vehicle? My other concern is that the shift assembly with the Journey's kit may stick out to far interfering with me putting a 12v cooler on that space or interfere with the power seat buttons on the drivers seat.

If anyone has the Journey's set up can you post some pics and let me know if the shifter gets in the way of the power seat switch and how much the lever sticks out from the seat base?

Thanks guys!

 

[albrow100]

I have the journeys shifter and the rear duct. I just went right through it and sealed the duct with tape. The boot screws into the duct plastic.

I had it with power seats before my custom swivel bases and it was close.
But I could still reach the controls

Now I made it fold out of the way by making a joint and a sliding locking sleeve

3A6467C9-3D90-43D8-B43E-5F25FBA4CA6D

• albrow100
• Feb 19, 2020

0478A455-A8A0-4DED-A093-653D9E35510F

• albrow100
• Feb 19, 2020

 

[Mmusicman]

I VOTE FOR THIS!!!
No lost floor space, easy to reach.. FULLY functional, and at a FRACTION of the price!
Shifter can be shorter too, but overhead looks just right
(but you need a seat base for this one, or build a tiny mount)
Never pulled carpet.. just drilled though the heater duct.

Overhead view looking down... (with work-box between seats)
Lever down (2WD-HI) ... and lever all the way up (4WD-LO)

If you go with the Journey Kit.. I'd still just do like albrow100 did and simply mount it on top.
But you could "trace" around the mount and cut the duct (or make a flap).. it really doesn't matter much.

PROS:
The advantage of the kit is that everything is done for you.
This includes the shifter brackets that attach to the TC case.
Looks cool! (but who really sees it anyway)

CONS:
Loose floor space
Price

The cable method is in my opinion the FAR BEST way to go.. but does require fabrications.
It's also better functionally (in my opinion)
It's also a fraction of the price (as I already mentioned)

Either way.... YOU'RE GOING TO LOVE IT!!!

 

[AstroWill]

Now I made it fold out of the way by making a joint and a sliding locking sleeve

3A6467C9-3D90-43D8-B43E-5F25FBA4CA6D

• albrow100
• Feb 19, 2020

0478A455-A8A0-4DED-A093-653D9E35510F

• albrow100
• Feb 19, 2020

I really like that, making it lay flat so it's out of the way, makes it work for swivel seats.

 

[Rockridge]

I went more forward with my cable location to avoid the ductwork. Hole comes out just ahead of the body stiffening gusset underneath which I used to attach the cable end. Still have a few things to dial in but my swap should be happening in the next couple of weeks.

 

[Mmusicman]

I really like that, making it lay flat so it's out of the way, makes it work for swivel seats.

Good point

 

[zerskier]

mine was just a rod coming up. push down for 4wd and push to floor for 4lo.

 

[AstroWill]

mine was just a rod coming up. push down for 4wd and push to floor for 4lo.

Dude, you get bonus points for the absolute simplest and cheapest setup of all!

 

[Rod's Trucks]

That is a very nice implementation of KISS!...not much to go wrong.
One question: How much of a 'detent' is there in the positioning, at 4WD and 4LO.
Is there any chance the lever could 'rattle down' on and attempt to engage an unwanted gear on rough roads?
The cable operation would likely eliminate that possibility, but if there is some resistance to movement with this simple setup, then there would be no issue.
Also, it appears that it would be easy to add a cable operated linkage if desired at a later date. (the hole is already there).

 

[zerskier]

The detent in the case is pretty strong, I never had a problem with it. I originally was going to drill a hole in the rod to install a hairpin to lockout the rod from moving when not needed, but never needed it.

 

[WimpTech]

I just installed the JOR kit this week. The instructions are meant for a mechanic, not a ding-dong like me haha
I originally just drilled through the duct and bought longer bolts, but my conscience got the best of me and I ripped it all out and pulled/ blocked the duct. My van has rear heat & AC so its overkill anyways. I do like the mount better now, less squishy.

:2:

 

[Mmusicman]

Is there any chance the lever could 'rattle down' on and attempt to engage an unwanted gear on rough roads?

No... no chance!
And especially even less likely if it's already all the way down too.

You should also know that you absolutely CAN NOT engage "4x4 low" while driving.. it won't go.
You "can" however engage 4x4-hi on the fly, which is nice when suddenly needed while cruising.
There is ZERO issue engaging (or disengaging) 4x4-hi while driving (at essentially any speed), other than driving in 4x4 mode when/where you shouldn't. It meshes easily without issue.

One question: How much of a 'detent' is there in the positioning, at 4WD and 4LO.

My "side of seat shifter" is resting in the "down position" in 2-high... tucked well out of the way.
It is forceably pulled "up" when 4x4 high or low is needed.
Detents are plenty strong... but not excessive.
No more of an issue than your steering column shifter "falling" into a lower gear.

 

[Rod's Trucks]

Great! Thanks for that information.
I have not even looked at my recently acquired NP233, which is still a project waiting for a 'Round-to-it' to get into the 'que' for a starting date.
I have got to clean out some space in the shop for that project.
Rod

 

[Mmusicman]

Here's an idea for an AWESOME shifter!
No reason it couldn't be made to work...

 

[BC_AstroMan]

No... no chance!
And especially even less likely if it's already all the way down too.

You should also know that you absolutely CAN NOT engage "4x4 low" while driving.. it won't go.
You "can" however engage 4x4-hi on the fly, which is nice when suddenly needed while cruising.
There is ZERO issue engaging (or disengaging) 4x4-hi while driving (at essentially any speed), other than driving in 4x4 mode when/where you shouldn't. It meshes easily without issue.


My "side of seat shifter" is resting in the "down position" in 2-high... tucked well out of the way.
It is forceably pulled "up" when 4x4 high or low is needed.
Detents are plenty strong... but not excessive.
No more of an issue than your steering column shifter "falling" into a lower gear.

Damn! That is pretty cool actually. It gives me the impression of what a Land Rover 4x4 stick would be when used in like the African jungle or something. I don't know why, but just does.

 

[markmitch]

I actually have a floor shifter like that for my transmission: Because the newer frame was set up for a totally different column shifter than my 89 body and transmission had, and without realizing it, I cut the stuff on the new frame. I used mmusicmans idea, but I used an egg shaped ball and I bent the shifter road and outer steel tube to put it away from the seat a little. I will post a few pictures tomorrow.