[realityguy]

I did mine on both sides,driver and passenger doors, on the 1990..I believe the motor and regulator were one unit that unplugs easily and unhooks from the rollup framework..It's a matter of taping the window in the up closed position (duct tape down onto the glass on both sides over a piece of cardboard that protected the painted surfaces, bent over the top of the door in the open position).. you need to drill out three rivets and replace them with short bolts and lock nuts( or nuts and lockwashers) in the same holes when you put the new motors in and have the connections to the rods reconnected.I didn't think it was too complicated or expensive to do by oneself,as a backyard mechanic with basic tools..couple wrenches,drill and bits,small socket set.Like I said..the wiring clips on and off..1/4" x 1/2" bolts in the old drilled out rivet holes..

I also sprayed wd40 down the side tracks and used a stick and rag to clean the racks out well..I don't think it was enough to fix the problem but something that should be done while one has the door panel off anyway..besides lubing everything else while you are there.

You need to remove the inner door panel..get one of the tools for that for about $10-12 at O'Reily's that pull out the Christmas tree type push-on connector pins that hold the panel on after you take out a few screws in the upper portion (door handle attachment).

The lower half has the pins(your year van might be slightly different for attachment,but will be obvious what needs to be removed,like wires for door speakers? (Don't know if your year had speakers in the doors..)....and then disconnect the wiring for the switches and.?...the panel is pushed up off the inner piece at the top of the panel at the window point. There will be a plastic or paper insulator/liner you need to try and remove carefully behind the panel Tape any spots that tear,etc..when you put it back on..

Before you put the door panel back on,test the up and down(after removing the tape on the glass of course)....make sure there aren't other problems.

Take note of the window rods that help the window go up and down(take pictures?) and how things clip together..

I think I had a small screw or rivet out of one of the lower corners of the track holding it in one spot inline(the track would flex and move there)..was an easy fix with a new screw or bolt.

I thought I took some pics..can't find them now.. anyway..instructions from a 1990 service manual.NOTE THE STEP 2 CAUTION on "replacing the motor portion" about putting a small bolt in to lock the gear..

 

[realityguy]

Sorry it took so long to get back to you..LOL!..it's 1am here and I was up for other reasons..Anyway..I thought I kept the old units..and I found them..pics attached. I believe they were this one below in the link.. Note the plug on the end of the regulator(?) has the wires sticking out. It might be dettachable and sold as a separate item but I didn't want to get into that(for the price)..and by the pieces separate and have one piece still be bad..or go bad because it wasn't changed out.
It might have been this one on ebay--->

Pardon Our Interruption...

It looks the same as the AC Delco ones I took out. I replaced them "one piece" because I really didn't want to do it again!

I don't remember which side the picture one was (same looking), but they were both kind of slow..so I did both of them (the wire colors should tell on that one pictured).

I also found I had broken wires in the wire looms in the door jambs so did all the work at one time..
Pic..

Yeah..I keep a lot of my old parts..when I go to sell the van I can say "here's what I replaced"..hard to argue with that!..and they are good for reference later..like this thread..LOL!

As far as the "mount area on the door"..same obvious spot as the crank style one would be I assume,..near the top..of course gear goes inward. The small lines "might " be where the rivets were... maybe 4? Once you get the panel off there is only one place it can go. I think I read some where that the regulator controls up and down so with the window all the way up and taped in the up closed position..you mount them on the door frame and they are set correctly..the regulator automatically stops at the top and bottom max points (by pressure?).

Looking at it again..I believe the tracks aren't attached to the motor except with the gear in place..but check and lubricate the points the track bars connect to each other.. The other ebay ads in that same search show the motors with the full tracks one can purchase (search was "1990 Astro power window motor")..if you want to see the other ads..ads with and without the track rods)

Amazon?..JUST MY OPINION>>>I don't buy anything from Amazon anymore since a lot of those sellers only have seen/possess pictures of the products they sell (parts/orders sent from/to a separate selling-to-seller warehouse they deal with. The seller doesn't have the part ) I had a seller that sold me a micro circuit pressure sensor I needed badly for a septic tank pump setup..and a seller wanted me to wait two months for the Back-ordered part instead of returning my money...neg for the seller,harassment for weeks,etc towards me in my emailbox..Good bye Amazon!

Okay..so I can't flush the toilet for two months at that house? ..I found another part..I think in Switzerland..not on Amazon.

 

[realityguy]

Okay..My Bad! 7AM..MY confusion with the regulator verses the window motor itself (Names of parts)..The picture is kind of vague as to what they call what..and THEY DON'T HAVE ANY PICTURE OF THE POWER WINDOW MOTOR. I assume this is the crank one shown....in the service manual OR the Electrical Diagrams book..only this single picture below. The electrical book only shows harnesses in the details shot,no components. The regulator includes the window lifting bars and that..which in my case and more than likely most others..was fine in my van..other than lube needed. I didn't need to replace any of that..just the motor portion with whatever is electrical in the connection area at the end of it..

A search on ebay shows the 'regulator portion can be bought seperately..if needed..

This is what is given in the SM... and that's it! You might find some better shots on youtube since a lot of the motors have needed work(replacement) on astros..

Here..check these out..a real picture is better than a 100 words..

Youtube astro window motor replacement at DuckDuckGo

DuckDuckGo. Privacy, Simplified.

duckduckgo.com

 

[realityguy]

I had a post written up but having to sign in again. lost it in the process. GRRR...Basically..The link..50% of the pictures are wrong for an astro,the door panel on the assembly line isn't an astro one..The first picture is not an astro regulator and motor.,.see the last one! The video has nothing to do with an Astro. "plastic and steel comment"..okay..truth in advertising?..Don't they normally list contents by how much is in there..most to least?

Van again..mentioned the inner metal door panel that everything mounts to...same in all auto doors,,that typically have holes appropriately placed for getting hands and parts through for mounting them.

The seller buys the picture and auction writeup from a warehouse..They have more than likely(or even want to) never seen anything more than the outside of the box..or the order is shipped direct from the warehouse somewhere else,never in the seller's hand.items returned go the the warehouse..maybe in China...(Go ahead..i dare you to ask him a question!..see what kind of answer you get. After reading the post above..I see you tried.LOL!) If it doesn't mount the same way and place..how do you calculate where it goes? I would assume the tech is wrong and they mount in the same holes you just drilled out. Note certain holes in the motor mount are drilled out as are the regulator ones..and probably bolt together there on the metal panel..or that is across a hole in the inner metal door panel.

IMO..I wouldn't buy it..I'm wondering about the quality of the bearing/rollers,plastic parts, and the strength of the stamped arms of the regulator.

If you have a door panel off inside your van..check out the quality (and condition of yours) of the AC Delco set (more likely AC D)..compare it to what you see in the Amazon ad.. Again..you may decide that regulator portion is okay,once you look it over well.

Are your window felts okay?..(the outer rubber seal at the bottom of the window on the outside that holds water out). If they still have a good seal and not cracked into sections..more than likely what is inside is okay...other than a worn out motor.

I'd check that out before I'd buy anything ..if possible.

 

[realityguy]

Check out this thread for a year close to yours..note the mistakes this guy made as far as not taping the window up..not locking the gear in place with a screw,etc..etc.. The pictures of it installed are pretty good for some of it..but he created more problems by not following the proper steps.. as outlined in the service manual..

https://www.astrosafari.com/threads/cant-align-window-motor-regulator-with-rivet-holes.143908/#replies

 

[realityguy]

Either way..if you buy that set..let us..and in the future,others.. know how it worked out. It could be a good deal/set at a cheap price.

With mine..the regulator portion was okay;I just lubed things up..and everything works well. If your door panel is off..I'd check wires and other things also(run a second wire from the switch to the motor?..check voltage through the wires,etc..) and see if that fixes the problem....since you are right there.

Taking the panel off..really isn't a major task,especially if you do have to do it a second time.The hardest thing is lining up the Christmas tree connectors to the holes to snap them back in place..

One thing I would buy first when working with the inside door panels is this tool or something similar for messing with the connectors(working them out, realigning them from the edge over their holes,etc..)..it helps a LOT!

Heavy Duty Door Panel Plastic Fastener Remover Body Retainer Clip Pry Tool | eBay

There are several different styles and types..basically you put the fork under the panel and around the fastener,either fulcrum or twist the fork head left/ right to pull /work them out and not break them. If you break or need new ones..they are cheap on ebay for a lot more than what you can get for a few bucks at auto parts stores for only a few of them.