1 day ... 1 guy ... impressive .. keep up the thread ...
Pulled My V8-350 Today
Pulled my V8-350 today! I'm going to do a little clean-up... a few performance improvements... a valve job and resurface heads (if the heads are still good). Some of the upgrades include a new high-volume water pump, and a new HEI distributor as well. The transmission is also getting new fluid and filter, along with a new higher 2400 stall performance lock-up converter. Doing some seal work on the PS pump and steering-box while it's all apart too.
While the motor was out and still hanging... I "test fit" some Hooker SuperComp long-tube headers, but they did not fit with the custom V8 swap motor-mounts. I guess I'll be sticking with the Hedman 68600 block-hugger headers which fit perfectly.
Looks like everything will probably go back on exactly as it came off... which makes the job really simple and easy. Nothing to figure out this time!
I've been driving with the V8 for about a year and 1/2 now and everything has been great...with a subtle minor issue that I think is related to a head gasket.. and possibly valves. Tomorrow I will pull the top half of engine apart (heads and intake only) ... at take it from there. If it turns out there are any extended issues with the heads, I've already shopped and I am prepared to purchase a set of new aluminum heads with roller rockers. This is an added expense I really don't want or hopefully need.
While the intake is off... I'm going to "test fit" one of my little B&M superchargers to see if it will work with existing factory serpentine belt system. If so... I may go with the boost. I don't really need that much more power... and I've really learned to like reliability and not breaking things. But then again... I've had a "boost gauge" mounted on the dash for years.. waiting for something to hook up to. lol
I'm going to be working with Felpro 1094 .015 head gaskets this time, in hopes of taking advantage of cylinder head "quench" and possibly a little more compression... tomorrow I will take some "piston to deck" measurements. If you're not familiar with "quench"... do a little research on it. It's quite interesting! But I'm also taking a chance with this style gasket... so we'll see.
The performance cam and bottom end are fantastic... I have no intention of making any changes there. It already has all new gaskets, pump, and seals as well.
Last night I drove it... today I pulled it. The pull was easy... a one man, one day job... clean and simple... completed in an afternoon! Tomorrow I'll pull the heads off the block... and have them machined during the week, and hopefully will be putting the motor back together and in next weekend. This job should go MUCH faster (2 weeks) rather than it did previously (1 year)... unless something changes. Possibly 3 weeks at the max if I have to order any more stuff.
I couldn't have asked for better working weather today... a front came though and gave us low humidity and 70's. Perfect engine pulling weather!
I'll be updating on the progress.
![Automotive parking light Tire Wheel Vehicle Car]()
While the motor was out and still hanging... I "test fit" some Hooker SuperComp long-tube headers, but they did not fit with the custom V8 swap motor-mounts. I guess I'll be sticking with the Hedman 68600 block-hugger headers which fit perfectly.
Looks like everything will probably go back on exactly as it came off... which makes the job really simple and easy. Nothing to figure out this time!
I've been driving with the V8 for about a year and 1/2 now and everything has been great...with a subtle minor issue that I think is related to a head gasket.. and possibly valves. Tomorrow I will pull the top half of engine apart (heads and intake only) ... at take it from there. If it turns out there are any extended issues with the heads, I've already shopped and I am prepared to purchase a set of new aluminum heads with roller rockers. This is an added expense I really don't want or hopefully need.
While the intake is off... I'm going to "test fit" one of my little B&M superchargers to see if it will work with existing factory serpentine belt system. If so... I may go with the boost. I don't really need that much more power... and I've really learned to like reliability and not breaking things. But then again... I've had a "boost gauge" mounted on the dash for years.. waiting for something to hook up to. lol
I'm going to be working with Felpro 1094 .015 head gaskets this time, in hopes of taking advantage of cylinder head "quench" and possibly a little more compression... tomorrow I will take some "piston to deck" measurements. If you're not familiar with "quench"... do a little research on it. It's quite interesting! But I'm also taking a chance with this style gasket... so we'll see.
The performance cam and bottom end are fantastic... I have no intention of making any changes there. It already has all new gaskets, pump, and seals as well.
Last night I drove it... today I pulled it. The pull was easy... a one man, one day job... clean and simple... completed in an afternoon! Tomorrow I'll pull the heads off the block... and have them machined during the week, and hopefully will be putting the motor back together and in next weekend. This job should go MUCH faster (2 weeks) rather than it did previously (1 year)... unless something changes. Possibly 3 weeks at the max if I have to order any more stuff.
I couldn't have asked for better working weather today... a front came though and gave us low humidity and 70's. Perfect engine pulling weather!
I'll be updating on the progress.
1 - 20 of 67 Posts
Wow... that's some amazing work you did on those headers Woodbutcher... they look GREAT!
It's amazing how they design headers to be shaped completely DIFFERENT than the heads they mount too.
I discovered a pretty nasty leak... despite having used high-temp Permatex on them. This was also the first time I ever used solid copper gaskets. The headers call for "round" port gaskets.
![IMG_3498.500.jpg]()
Due to budget reasons (plus the fact you can't really see them) .. I think I'm just going to live with nasty looking headers... but I like the idea of having them machined flat. Looks like I'm going back to rectangular port paper gaskets too. Not happy with the Hedmans (for several reasons) ... but they DO fit the van perfectly!
It's amazing how they design headers to be shaped completely DIFFERENT than the heads they mount too.
I discovered a pretty nasty leak... despite having used high-temp Permatex on them. This was also the first time I ever used solid copper gaskets. The headers call for "round" port gaskets.
Due to budget reasons (plus the fact you can't really see them) .. I think I'm just going to live with nasty looking headers... but I like the idea of having them machined flat. Looks like I'm going back to rectangular port paper gaskets too. Not happy with the Hedmans (for several reasons) ... but they DO fit the van perfectly!
LOL!sixsix said:
Here's a photo recap of the pull so far:
(I know how much we love photos)
Here's the motor moments before the pull:
(I had just driven it the day before and moments earlier)
![Hood Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive tire Electrical wiring]()
Temporarily jack the rear of van up high to empty water from the engine..
before you start job and after you have "properly" drained the coolant from the radiator.
At this point (after a flush) ... I'm only draining water. Let dry.. begin job.
(makes for no mess later while lifting)
![Tire Wheel Automotive parking light Vehicle Car]()
My work area just outside garage (ready to start job):
![Tire Automotive parking light Land vehicle Vehicle Car]()
Federal siren speaker, horns, and strobe lights hiding behind the removed phantom grill.
A 13mm ratchet and socket will pretty much remove the rest of the front end:
![Hood Grille Automotive tire Automotive lighting Motor vehicle]()
Easy access after removal of grill & support, radiator and A/C condenser:
![Automotive tire Automotive design Auto part Audio equipment Motor vehicle]()
Removed accy brackets, alternator, compressor, PS, hoses:
![Automotive tire Motor vehicle Car Automotive design Rim]()
View from inside garage looking out:
(nothing more than a few basic hand tools)
![Land vehicle Car Vehicle Automotive tail & brake light Hood]()
Jack front of van up nice and high for good angle and easy clearance.
While under van... un-attach exhaust, torque converter, trans bolts, motor mount bolts.
Don't forget to plug trans where dipstick tube was. Trans lines stay in place.. push to side up front.
![Tire Wheel Tread Automotive tire Vehicle]()
Cherry picker arm needs to be very close to manifold.. with clearance above to lift up:
![Automotive fuel system Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Rim]()
* * CONTINUED NEXT POST * *
(I know how much we love photos)
Here's the motor moments before the pull:
(I had just driven it the day before and moments earlier)
Temporarily jack the rear of van up high to empty water from the engine..
before you start job and after you have "properly" drained the coolant from the radiator.
At this point (after a flush) ... I'm only draining water. Let dry.. begin job.
(makes for no mess later while lifting)
My work area just outside garage (ready to start job):
Federal siren speaker, horns, and strobe lights hiding behind the removed phantom grill.
A 13mm ratchet and socket will pretty much remove the rest of the front end:
Easy access after removal of grill & support, radiator and A/C condenser:
Removed accy brackets, alternator, compressor, PS, hoses:
View from inside garage looking out:
(nothing more than a few basic hand tools)
Jack front of van up nice and high for good angle and easy clearance.
While under van... un-attach exhaust, torque converter, trans bolts, motor mount bolts.
Don't forget to plug trans where dipstick tube was. Trans lines stay in place.. push to side up front.
Cherry picker arm needs to be very close to manifold.. with clearance above to lift up:
* * CONTINUED NEXT POST * *
The accessory brackets are from the stock 92 V6 Astro.Mr_Roboto said:
------------------------------------------------------------
* * CONTINUED FROM PREVIOUS POST * *
Lift... move forward... lift more... move out more.. keep repeating... (step it out)
You can pull engine with headers attached..
(just remove 2 bolts on master brake cylinder and move it out of the way as seen here):
Put a cover over the bumper so you don't scratch it up when you're wiggling the engine out.
Simple.. clean.. easy.. one afternoon, one man job:
The cat stopped by to see what was going on:
Attach engine stand (while hanging):
Done!
Drive train, exhaust, hood, grill, bumper... all still in place.
Push van back into garage!
Last time I did the pull I had made simple hooks out of wire coat hanger. I couldn't find them this time... so I used a pair of ratcheting tie-down straps. They are hooked from the eyelets in the trans, over the opening, and hooked to the seat bases in the van. Obviously, you do this first and get them tight before the pull. With wire hooks, you simply bend and twist them in place.icebrrg3rd said:
Sounds like Mr Roboto found an even easier way to use the straps!
With the adjustable JTR V8 mounts... you lower the engine in place... then push it back against the trans... then tighten the bolts. Reverse obviously for pulling, allowing the trans to hang in the perfect location.
DAY 2:
Roll engine back outside... scrape and clean ports:
![Tire Wheel Hood Automotive tire Vehicle]()
Bath time! (just needed mild wash block only)
![Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tire Automotive design Grass]()
(Went and rode the motorcycle to lunch and car show for a few hours)
In shop area now.
Remove intake manifold, valve covers, rockers, push-rods, and head bolts:
![Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Rim Automotive exterior]()
Remove heads, and do inspections:
![Tire Wheel Automotive tire Vehicle Motor vehicle]()
Old heads are off to machine shop:
![Vehicle Gas Audio equipment Auto part Automotive design]()
I didn't find any visual evidence of leaking... and compression test looked "ok" too.
Looks like I'm running pretty lean and clean for the year and half it's been in the van.
Spark plugs were very clean.
Heads were last installed about 20 years ago... but mostly sat and didn't see a lot of use since then.
I can't remember what they came from.
Heads will get a basic valve job, guides and seals, and re-surfacing.
The plan is to bolt it all together exactly the way it came out.
Roll engine back outside... scrape and clean ports:
Bath time! (just needed mild wash block only)
(Went and rode the motorcycle to lunch and car show for a few hours)
In shop area now.
Remove intake manifold, valve covers, rockers, push-rods, and head bolts:
Remove heads, and do inspections:
Old heads are off to machine shop:
I didn't find any visual evidence of leaking... and compression test looked "ok" too.
Looks like I'm running pretty lean and clean for the year and half it's been in the van.
Spark plugs were very clean.
Heads were last installed about 20 years ago... but mostly sat and didn't see a lot of use since then.
I can't remember what they came from.
Heads will get a basic valve job, guides and seals, and re-surfacing.
The plan is to bolt it all together exactly the way it came out.
1 - 20 of 67 Posts
