[chemist]

I have just a quick fuel pump replacement question--for those who have done this job. My GM shop manual says to use a GM fuel sender wrench to get the fuel pump out--do I really need this tool, or will a brass drift and a mallet work?

Thanks!

 

['cudapaul]

A brass drift and a mallet would work fine.

Just keep a fire extinguisher close by. Always.

 

[h2omelon]

All you need is a right angle pick. Remove the retaining ring and lift out.

 

[chemist]

Frustrating. I dropped the tank and there were two short plastic lines tucked underneath, but not long enough to survive the tank lowering. They're kinked now...

Also, it looks like the brass drift idea was the way to go. There is a retaining ring that is rusted to a ring that holds it down. Less than a quarter turn would remove it I think... But beating on it is kinda chewing at the polymer tank. Hence, the GM specialy tool would probably work great.

A former GM tech told me that when his group had a chance to talk to automotive engineers with gm, they were told that servicability was "not a concern" when the vehicles are designed.
:banghead:
Wow do I ever believe that.

Here's a really stupid question. Why in God's name is an electrical fuel pump considered so much better than a block mounted, belt driven, mechanical one?! Think about it. Pressure can be just as easily controlled by a clutch on a pulley as it can by turning on and off an electric motor... or just as good, have the electronic assembly external to the tank...

 

[Matrixx]

Hi chemist

I'm sorry to hear about the kinked lines.

Polymer Tank? hmm, when was that introduced? I'll have to check that out.

Soak the ring in penetrating fluid, then try to use a Brass drift with a solid Brass head mallet. That's the only way to remove them I found. A rubber mallet will absorb to much of the impact which you need to break the locking ring free. One good hit in the right direction should break it free.

I hope you get this sorted out chemist and I'm sure others will chime in if they can.

 

[ihatemybike]

Should have disconnected the fuel lines before dropping the tank. This could have been done where the hard lines meet the flex lines, located in the area between the drive shaft and the fuel tank near the body, usually hidden by the fuel tanks shield.

Your van being a 2003, I think has a snap ring and not something that needs to be rotated. I know my 1997, 1999, and 2000 did. My 1994 did need something rotated.

Are you using a factory manual for your model year van or a Haynes/Chilton's?

 

[h2omelon]

Should have disconnected the fuel lines before dropping the tank. This could have been done where the hard lines meet the flex lines, located in the area between the drive shaft and the fuel tank near the body, usually hidden by the fuel tanks shield.

Your van being a 2003, I think has a snap ring and not something that needs to be rotated. I know my 1997, 1999, and 2000 did. My 1994 did need something rotated.

Are you using a factory manual for your model year van or a Haynes/Chilton's?

Thats what I was saying.My 99 has a snap ring that is easily removed with a pick or snap ring pliers.

 

[chemist]

Should have disconnected the fuel lines before dropping the tank. This could have been done where the hard lines meet the flex lines, located in the area between the drive shaft and the fuel tank near the body, usually hidden by the fuel tanks shield....
Are you using a factory manual for your model year van or a Haynes/Chilton's?

Yep, they were hidden extremely well. I picked up some replacement lines on the way home tonight. Actually I'm thinking the easiest way to deal with these in the future is just plan on replacing them--cut them every time...

 

[ihatemybike]

Actually I'm thinking the easiest way to deal with these in the future is just plan on replacing them--cut them every time...

They're not that hard to disconnect, but if you feel like spending the money.

 

[chemist]

Tank's out:

No Snap Ring as far as I can see--really rusted though. Got to wonder if those things are crimped down to make it more difficult. I used PB Blaster and beat the he!! out of that retainer. It's still in there... :banghead:

Edit: This night just keeps getting better. Note white electrical connector on the pump. The one I bought from Advance Auto has a different style connector there and comes with a wiring harness telling you to replace your old harness. The brand of pump is Artex, and they claim it was a GM design flaw... :think:
Sounds like BS to me. My money says they just didn't want to deal with patent infringement. Maybe the design flaw was much more basic. GM put the pump in the tank instead of external to the tank--maybe Artex shoulda fixed the real design flaw! Anyway, now I know why everybody says Delco or Delphi...

 

[Matrixx]

It "appears" to be locked in place by 5 locking tabs. Lift up on each tab to allow the housing to rotate past it. Let us know how things work out or if you have anymore questions.

I'm sure others will chime in if they can.

 

[Big_kid]

Also, it looks like the brass drift idea was the way to go.

That's how I did mine

A former GM tech told me that when his group had a chance to talk to automotive engineers with gm, they were told that servicability was "not a concern" when the vehicles are designed. :banghead:
Wow do I ever believe that.

For the most part, that's how it is in ALL industries & manufacturers. I can think of only 2 exceptions I've seen in the banking equipment industry, and none anywhere else.

Engineers don't have to go out and work in the field. They're paid to make it last roughly the waranty period, as inexpensively and quickly as possible.

 

[rev_les]

X2 on the locking tabs, easy to forget telling someone about them, until you see the PITA's

 

[h2omelon]

Yours is different than my 99.

 

[chemist]

The PB Blaster soak followed by beating the hell out of it with a brass drift worked. I got it out around 2 am, and then unwound a bit surfing forums related to our vans. It's about 2:30 now and I'm going to bed. I'll finish this nonsense in the morning. I'm going to re-wire it per the Airtex fuel pump instructions, put it all back together and be done with it hopefully
ray:
Either way, it's a tomorrow project...

 

[ihatemybike]

AIrtex, hope you are planning on swapping the pump again soon. Those just don't last. We've seen them fail in less than six months. In fact, that's part of the reason why I was able to buy Grumpy so cheap. PO had replaced the fuel pump in the summer and by December the van would only start with starter fluid cause the pump had degraded.

Take it back, buy the proper ACDelco/Dephi unit from http://www.GetGMParts.com and be happier in the long run. Plus, you'll actually save money.

AutoZone Airtex crap = $259.99
GetGMParts ACDelco MU203 /Delphi FG0127 = $188.10

 

[chemist]

Too late. I seated the pump prior to going to bed.

 

[ihatemybike]

:doh:

 

[Big_kid]

I'm in the same boat. I replaced mine first thing when I bought it, before I found this forum.

We'll know for next time.

 

[chemist]

Done. Van runs.