[moto]

I wanted to look at the rear brake shoes on my 2002 Safari (74K miles); I've never had the drums off. One came off easily, the other is really stuck. It seems loose at the studs and at the edge (at the shoes), but is stuck at the center of the hub. I was thinking of using a gear puller on it, but mine is not big enough; needs to be capable of about 11" diameter. Anybody have any good ideas?

 

[gtkane]

This happens all the time!

Take a big hammer, and smack the face of the drum, near the outside edge. Don't worry about warping the drum...it can take a LOT of abuse!
Usually after 3 or 4 solid hits, it will pop free.
Just make sure you don't hit the studs!

 

[kidhauler]

usually if you hit between the studs with a ball peen hammer you will viberate the drum loose. remember to only hit between the studs if you hit on the edge of the drum you could crack it. the other thing I have heard of is get the wax seal from a toilet that goes between the toilet and the ground. Heat the drum up by the axle with a blow torch and get the wax to melt around the axle this should loosen the drum. Be careful to not heat the drum up too much or you will warp or crack it. Also be sure to wind the adjuster for the shoes back to make sure that they are not causing the drum to stick. if you can move the drum at all then it is the shoes that are sticking the drum on.

 

[94vortec]

yes like they said it's very common. i find that usually the lip that forms around the edge of the drum is what's sticking. a hammer is the way to go just try not to brake it! never heard the wax thing i'll have to ask my instructor about that tomorrow.

 

[gtkane]

I've never cracked a drum before, even when hitting it with a 6lb. maul with everything I've got!
I have even tried busting one off before with no luck.

Maybe I've been lucky!

 

[94vortec]

well i'd be more worried about maybe knocking it a little out of round... but they are pretty tough

 

[Smiliesafari]

Before hitting the drum with a hammer, spray some WD 40 or whatever you have around the axle center. It helps to weaken the rust bond.

 

[visitor]

PB Penetrating Catalyst - a.k.a. PBlaster sprayed around that center hole & let it soak in some. Then carefully heat up right around that center hole (NOT the whole drum and NOT too hot) with a propane torch while tapping the drum with a hammer.

 

[thyubernoob]

Before hitting the drum with a hammer, spray some WD 40 or whatever you have around the axle center. It helps to weaken the rust bond.

:yeahthat: This was how we always got our rusted drums off!!!!!

 

[lsetten]

I have the same problem... one drum came off pretty easy, on the other it almost seems as if the shoe has worn into the drum, because the drum is really loose when fully on, to about halfway off, then it just becomes a huge PITA. I have hit the snot outta it, and grease it up big time, and pried and pried.. still no luck. Makes me wonder what special tool a shop would have for a job like this.

 

[LEVE]

the other it almost seems as if the shoe has worn into the drum, because the drum is really loose when fully on

Look at the star adjuster at the bottom of the wheel assembly and back it off. That will/should let the shoes collapse inward toward the hub. That should let you get the drum off.

Have you tried backing off the star adjuster?

 

[lsetten]

the other it almost seems as if the shoe has worn into the drum, because the drum is really loose when fully on

Look at the star adjuster at the bottom of the wheel assembly and back it off. That will/should let the shoes collapse inward toward the hub. That should let you get the drum off.

Have you tried backing off the star adjuster?

I couldn't access the star adjuster, even with getting the drum almost off, I guess I should say I could get the drum half way. I did get the drum off finally, wasn't much left of the drum, but a couple maul hammers, a few pry bars, and enough cussing finally got it off. Going to need a complete set of hardware of course, there wasn't anything left of the shoes on that stuck side.

Well, off to the parts store.

 

[LEVE]

The star adjuster should be easily accessible via a hole at the bottom of the backing plate; there's a little rubber plug installed in the hole. Remove the plug and you should have access.

I'm puzzled.

 

[jeff's93astro]

The star adjuster should be easily accessible via a hole at the bottom of the backing plate; there's a little rubber plug installed in the hole. Remove the plug and you should have access.

I'm puzzled.

I've worked on a few gm's that didn't have the rubber plug but had a knock out plate over the hole. kinda like a breaker box you pop the plate off to run a wire through

 

[LEVE]

I've worked on a few gm's that didn't have the rubber plug but had a knock out plate over the hole. kinda like a breaker box you pop the plate off to run a wire through

Thanks! I've never seen that before. I've learned something today. :shock:

 

[timelessbeing]

Have you tried backing off the star adjuster?

I was wondering how many "bash it" posts I was going to see before someone suggested the adjuster. I get the feeling people just like to hit things.

 

[rev_les]

Have you tried backing off the star adjuster?

I was wondering how many "bash it" posts I was going to see before someone suggested the adjuster. I get the feeling people just like to hit things.

It relieves stress :rofl:
The issue is whether it's sticking on the hub, or hanging up in the groove worn into the drum by the brake shoe.
I have 3 of these vans and all 3 have knock out plates. ( well...HAD is the operative word on 2 of them, and the 3rd one's gonna be following the same road)

 

[lsetten]

...another thing that kind of seemed strange to me, is that the side of the van which had the stuck drum also had trouble getting the new drum back on over the new shoes and hardware. I have the star adjuster as closed as it can go, and I know it is the correct drum because it goes on the other side just fine. I finally got it on, but I can't get the wheel two spin. I have yet to put the tire back on, and take it for a drive, I know the parking brake is released, and it appears that the cylinder is compressed as much as it can go....

..hmm..back at it tomorrow.

 

[Astroplane]

I know the parking brake is released,

The pedal may be released, but the cable to that side is still holding the brake on. Look under the drivers' side of the van at the parking brake cable adjuster. Make sure both rear cables are returning to rest properly before you overheat the new brakes.

 

[RECox286]

Remove the rubber plug from the bottom of the backing plate (towards the inside of the truck) . Use a very small flat bladed screwdriver to push the self adjuster lever away from contacting the star adjuster. While the lever is not engaged with the star adjuster, you will be able to back down the adjuster which will allow the shoes to retract to a smaller diameter. You need to do this if the drums are "ridged" , which they probably are because if they weren't , then the drums would slide away from the shoes without any trouble. Ridged drums should be turned out on a lathe, if they will still be within spec. I prefer to install new wheel cylinders, shoes, hardware and drums. That way it's just like it came from the factory, and I don't have to worry about collateral damage down the road (and it just makes good financial sense.)

Sincerely, Bob