[dhanson928]

I just bought a 97 Safari AWD in the fancy trim package. It has a luggage rack that looks pretty sturdy on the longitudinal rails but the cross bars are aero shaped and pretty light looking, held in place in the slotted longitudinals with just one small set screw at each end...

I want to add some beef and some roof clearance to a rack on the roof but I don't have the cash for a yakima or a thule system. Has anyone come up with a way to add some kinda crossbars that would actually carry some weight? Without spending an arm and a leg and without adding a great giant 'air brake' up there?

I was kinda thinking about scribing an additional cross bar onto the factory cross bars...maybe through-bolting it into the areo cross bar all along it, with 1/4" Stainless machine screws...and probably extending it out just a little over the top of the longitudinal rack and through bolting it there, also...

I do have a Yakima system on my other van and I like all the accessories that are possible for the round Yakima cross bars...I could go for a couple more of those, but the Yakima tower attachments...I refuse to pay that much for those things.....

Anyone know of one similar that has been done or have any ideas how I might do something like that? I want to be able to very occasionally put a pretty big load up there without breaking it or denting the roof....Like when I have to haul lumber I might want to be able to carry a couple hundred lbs...carefully..

Thanks in advance, Don Hanson

 

[Allmntrider]

use electrical conduit. It's light, strong, cheap, and easy to manipulate into different shapes. Then find some old chain link and cover it for the basket. I made one for my fj40 with steal tube and chain link and it works awesome. I get a lot of right on's when people see it. Plus it's low profile so it creates hardly any drag.

 

[Stroverlander]

Additional crossbars from junkyard to help spread the load is what I used for mounting my rooftop tent, six crossbars total. If you go that route, there are two varieties of crossbar and inserts for the rails so make sure you get all the insert pieces for that specific crossbar type as they don't interchange. Either style fits the roof rails.

Weak link is the rivnut inserts used in the sheet metal roof loosening or pulling out so make sure the rail mounting hardware is secure.

 

[Lornforlorn]

Additional crossbars from junkyard to help spread the load is what I used for mounting my rooftop tent, six crossbars total. If you go that route, there are two varieties of crossbar and inserts for the rails so make sure you get all the insert pieces for that specific crossbar type as they don't interchange. Either style fits the roof rails.

Weak link is the rivnut inserts used in the sheet metal roof loosening or pulling out so make sure the rail mounting hardware is secure.

Did you have to remove the mounts to slide the additional cross bars into the side rails?

 

[Rod's Trucks]

Did you have to remove the mounts to slide the additional cross bars into the side rails?

They slide in from the rear but I cannot remember if the rear mount has to come off or not.
Mine was assembled with two added cross bars on the floor of the shop, and then installed onto a roof which had never been drilled.
Keep in mind the roof is curved from front to back. If more than two cross bars are used with the original side rails, the middle one(s) will be slightly higher than the front and back ones.
You will not be able to lay a 2 x 4 flat on three or four cross bars.
Rod J
Issaquah, WA

 

[Lornforlorn]

They slide in from the rear but I cannot remember if the rear mount has to come off or not.
Mine was assembled with two added cross bars on the floor of the shop, and then installed onto a roof which had never been drilled.
Keep in mind the roof is curved from front to back. If more than two cross bars are used with the original side rails, the middle one(s) will be slightly higher than the front and back ones.
You will not be able to lay a 2 x 4 flat on three or four cross bars.
Rod J
Issaquah, WA

Great point! Thanks for the info

 

[realityguy]

I somewhat made my own racks from some yakima round bars with 2 different sets of mounts because I wanted one lower level up front and a higher bar set in the back .Suggested below are the materials for making your own cheaper racks or parts..and where to look for them..
The front,back,and side rails are 3/16" X2" aluminum scrap pieces from old commercial building aluminum I worked on that were door and window trim..all 8 feet long..that I cut down.They were throwing them out so the price was right! I used one smaller yakima basket I got for $50 off craigs for the front to fit some solar panels and the rear basket material were some really cheap store display pieces of about 1/4" round crosspiece steel bars of 2x2" (guess) squares that were 2'x8' long that mounted probably vertical and had hanging hooks on them for display items..I think those were free(or really cheap? been about 5+ years) off craigs also and original were painted black and white(some of each).
Anyway,,the display metal mesh pieces have side double ribs with a 1/4" between,perfect for bolting the vertical 2" high aluminum on the sides with stainless bolts washers and nuts,creating a very solid 8' long mesh bed that should stay straight...if one wanted to make a bed that long. Using the yakima round bars allows one to shim over the bar mounts easy to flatten the "basket" floor to carry long items..or use your crossbars with shims on them where needed to flatten the deck.

I joined mine for solid square racks and sides with front and back metal pieces cut at 22 degrees(front and back sloped for possible wind noise?..(untested at high speeds as of yet) and 1-1/2" X 1-1/2" aluminum "L" corner pieces with stainless screws at the corners,cut with a chop box and fine tooth blade.
My rails are Yukon or Suburban ones with the slot in the top for adding the taller mounts in the back end with inserts that fit the slots.The front are the "railgrabber" style Yakima feet.I think each set of bars was about $80 used per set and the bars are 58" ones(length needed for the rail grabber style feet..48" won't work for Astros with the rails about 42" wide..or between the roof channels.).

I can remove the rear basket and just put long items over the front side rail set,about 1/4" difference in height with bars in the back and the side pieces up front.I used stainless straps in the rear portion,for now,my Yakima bar mount pieces for the rear set were on order ..still not installed yet..which will raise the back rack about 1/4" higher.

One other note..factory rails?..I don't have them and didn't before.. but I had my headliner out when I supported my rails and noticed the ribs are down about 1/4-3/8" from the factory steel roof.On most of mine,I bolted through the steel roof(because my feet were set up for a Suburban) on each side of the ribs,added 2" foundation washers and fender washers under each bolt..then shimmed at the rib point and caulked the heck out of that area for 6-8" where the ribs and rails crossed,to make the roof/rack mount areas more solid and hopefully no roof dents..
You might want to pull down a corner of the headliner and see or check threads here, to see how the bolts are supported for the factory ones.. and to prevent possible roof dents/leaks at bolt points if too much weight is put on the rack.

 

[VanLover]

Weak link is the rivnut inserts used in the sheet metal roof loosening or pulling out so make sure the rail mounting hardware is secure.

My problem was not the rivnuts becoming loose, but the rust (and subsequent water intrusion). I removed my roof rack and discovered that the factory/dealer didn't use any kind of sealant to keep moisture from collecting on the rivnut area.

Did you have to remove the mounts to slide the additional cross bars into the side rails?

You need to remove either the front or the rear brackets/mounts to slide the cross members in or out.

 

[VanLover]

One other note..factory rails?..I don't have them and didn't before.. but I had my headliner out when I supported my rails and noticed the ribs are down about 1/4-3/8" from the factory steel roof.On most of mine,I bolted through the steel roof(because my feet were set up for a Suburban) on each side of the ribs,added 2" foundation washers and fender washers under each bolt..then shimmed at the rib point and caulked the heck out of that area for 6-8" where the ribs and rails crossed,to make the roof/rack mount areas more solid and hopefully no roof dents..

Nice install!

How did you account for the curvature (both front-to-back and side-to-side) of the our vans' roof, if at all? Do your rails naturally bend to match the roof, or did you need to bend/twist them it into place? How did you keep the rails' slots pointing straight up (instead of outboard)?

Have you noticed any galvanic corrosion due to dissimilar metals (stainless screws + aluminum + steel mesh)?

 

[MechBob]

Roof racks are great, especially for around town,slow speed, but will really affect mileage at highway speeds. Try to not have "square" or vertical faces, forward.

 

[realityguy]

How did you account for the curvature (both front-to-back and side-to-side) of the our vans' roof, if at all? Do your rails naturally bend to match the roof, or did you need to bend/twist them it into place? How did you keep the rails' slots pointing straight up (instead of outboard)?

Have you noticed any galvanic corrosion due to dissimilar metals (stainless screws + aluminum + steel mesh)?

Yes this post is long..if you want to save money on a rack..read it!

My rails were off a Yukon,mounted to the original Yukon feet.. and about the same slope front to back as an Astro I believe(I traded some other old racks I had for the rails already removed..Yukon he said,showed receipt from P-n-P for $42).

Each rail FOOT was originally drilled and placed for the Yukon rib at the factory I assume so I placed them about equally across the ribs.Keep in mind that the rib is NOT wide enough for a "two bolt" foot like most Yakima ones so one bolt(at least)has to be off the rib,or both, and just through the roof steel itself.

I started at the front with one bolt through the cross rib and the others on both sides of the ribs.Keep in mind that Astro ribs DON'T sit directly under/against the roof steel..there is a gap(about 3/8") there that needs to be shimmed.Mine were shimmed with hardwood snug to prevent denting the roof across the rib under the roof steel and well caulked for 6-8" along at the foot points.My bolts have 2x2" square house foundation washers under the roof steel with a 1/4' fender washer after that,stainless locknuts..all stainless steel (except the foundation washers) the bolts are pretty much floated in caulk(2"x2" square around the bolt hole,) and tightened down snug.

It might have been better for me to re-layout each middle rail foot and drill holes in the track itself to RESET the two inside feet over the ribs for at least one bolt through the rib,but that would have been a PITA for the alignment inside and out.

The Yukon rails have a slot in the top for using T-bolts to lock down the Yakima feet for the back two(towers with separate Slide-on landing pads).The front two use "railgrabber" type crossbars,Clamp around the raised bars. These sets I found for cheap with each set about $60-80 with the feet attached(58" long bars needed for an Astro..especially the railgrabber feet) Both sets have round bars. My baskets are separate for two solar panels(this spring),each basket only on two bars so they lay flat.

My front upper side rails are 3/16" aluminum X 2" high(window/door trim scrap from a commercial office job) and the difference between the two sets of rails(feet used)are close to 2"..or the back bars in the back half are pretty much level with the front basket sides and front and back side pieces..meaning I can carry longer surfboards and that flat if I remove just the rear basket.If I need to pad the vertical sidepiece at the front or back(say for packing surfboards),I could use copper water pipe "insulation foam" (round with slots to protect the boards(or whatever long stuff I put up there).The back end on the van clamps to the rails themselves.

I could have used 2 matching sets of bars with the same type of feet and would only need to do shim the end bar mounts(front and rear) with washers over the bolts in the bar mounts and under the basket/platform to level one base basket the entire length...just buy a box of 50 extra 1/4 Stainless steel washers. and maybe some longer bolts for the end(4?).

I think the bar mounts were about $12-15 for a set of four on ebay.. locks and keys run about $10 for each lock/key set..or less.You can find any # keyed(search for the # on the key or lock,search ebay for that #) set to match some you have..so you can buy a set of two for cheap and find another set of two keyed the same,if you need four! Ebay is loaded! Aero bar feet,round bar feet,bar caps..all parts are readily available.

Yakima parts do have their advantages;the pricey baskets,rails,etc. and things like that ..$$ OUCH! ..other things can be used and you can save a lot of bucks that way,Craigslist is FULL of Yakima bike,ski,canoe,kayak racks,parts,sets at reasonable prices,especially at the end of summer.I don't buy anything new as far as Yakima goods.. There are just too many parts/pieces/racks out there!

 

[VanLover]

How did you account for the curvature (both front-to-back and side-to-side) of the our vans' roof, if at all? Do your rails naturally bend to match the roof, or did you need to bend/twist them it into place? How did you keep the rails' slots pointing straight up (instead of outboard)?

Have you noticed any galvanic corrosion due to dissimilar metals (stainless screws + aluminum + steel mesh)?

Yes this post is long..if you want to save money on a rack..read it!

My rails were off a Yukon,mounted to the original Yukon feet.. and about the same slope front to back as an Astro I believe(I traded some other old racks I had for the rails already removed..Yukon he said,showed receipt from P-n-P for $42).

Each rail FOOT was originally drilled and placed for the Yukon rib at the factory I assume so I placed them about equally across the ribs.Keep in mind that the rib is NOT wide enough for a "two bolt" foot like most Yakima ones so one bolt(at least)has to be off the rib,or both, and just through the roof steel itself.

I started at the front with one bolt through the cross rib and the others on both sides of the ribs.Keep in mind that Astro ribs DON'T sit directly under/against the roof steel..there is a gap(about 3/8") there that needs to be shimmed.Mine were shimmed with hardwood snug to prevent denting the roof across the rib under the roof steel and well caulked for 6-8" along at the foot points.My bolts have 2x2" square house foundation washers under the roof steel with a 1/4' fender washer after that,stainless locknuts..all stainless steel (except the foundation washers) the bolts are pretty much floated in caulk(2"x2" square around the bolt hole,) and tightened down snug.

It might have been better for me to re-layout each middle rail foot and drill holes in the track itself to RESET the two inside feet over the ribs for at least one bolt through the rib,but that would have been a PITA for the alignment inside and out.

The Yukon rails have a slot in the top for using T-bolts to lock down the Yakima feet for the back two(towers with separate Slide-on landing pads).The front two use "railgrabber" type crossbars,Clamp around the raised bars. These sets I found for cheap with each set about $60-80 with the feet attached(58" long bars needed for an Astro..especially the railgrabber feet) Both sets have round bars. My baskets are separate for two solar panels(this spring),each basket only on two bars so they lay flat.

My front upper side rails are 3/16" aluminum X 2" high(window/door trim scrap from a commercial office job) and the difference between the two sets of rails(feet used)are close to 2"..or the back bars in the back half are pretty much level with the front basket sides and front and back side pieces..meaning I can carry longer surfboards and that flat if I remove just the rear basket.If I need to pad the vertical sidepiece at the front or back(say for packing surfboards),I could use copper water pipe "insulation foam" (round with slots to protect the boards(or whatever long stuff I put up there).The back end on the van clamps to the rails themselves.

I could have used 2 matching sets of bars with the same type of feet and would only need to do shim the end bar mounts(front and rear) with washers over the bolts in the bar mounts and under the basket/platform to level one base basket the entire length...just buy a box of 50 extra 1/4 Stainless steel washers. and maybe some longer bolts for the end(4?).

I think the bar mounts were about $12-15 for a set of four on ebay.. locks and keys run about $10 for each lock/key set..or less.You can find any # keyed(search for the # on the key or lock,search ebay for that #) set to match some you have..so you can buy a set of two for cheap and find another set of two keyed the same,if you need four! Ebay is loaded! Aero bar feet,round bar feet,bar caps..all parts are readily available.

Yakima parts do have their advantages;the pricey baskets,rails,etc. and things like that ..$$ OUCH! ..other things can be used and you can save a lot of bucks that way,Craigslist is FULL of Yakima bike,ski,canoe,kayak racks,parts,sets at reasonable prices,especially at the end of summer.I don't buy anything new as far as Yakima goods.. There are just too many parts/pieces/racks out there!

Thank you! I think I understand it now (I'm new to this and still learning).

Have you noticed any issues with galvanic corrosion, or your rack whistling/humming/vibrating on the highway?

 

[realityguy]

Corrosion.. I shortened my above post and took that portion out..Some people here hate long posts..probably reading them on their phones.
I've been working on the van the last year and more,really haven't had any long trips as of yet over 10 miles and above 45mph,just insured it again about a month ago after sitting in the yard for 15 years.95% of the bolts,nuts, and that are stainless steel.The foundation bolt washers are inside the van,shouldn't come in contact with water unless some moisture is ever present in there.Everything exterior is stainless ,aluminum(painted silver),or whatever the painted baskets are made of.

The display metal rack(s) I used for the back basket,maybe powdercoated? Some of the same 2'x6-8' have been used for our gardening racks for several years for pea trellises and beans,,with no rust even though the vegetables got water frequently. Most were black when I got them with a couple white ones also. I hit that again with black paint when I put that basket rack together.The Yakima one is black also.

Rust and Corrosion and salted roads..this state very rarely uses salt on the road because we rarely get snow or accumulations of ice on them in the greater Seattle area..maybe a maximum of 7-10 days a year(?).eastern Washington may use may be higher but we don't get over there.Most of our winters consist of days of mostly rainfall that washes the salt off the roads.

As I have been working under the van here and there,I've been cleaning,sanding some,and repainting it,when and where possible.Within a month or three most of the underneath area will be done and repainted..I hope.The wet weather right now is a factor(and snowed today..not common here now).

I don't ski or snowboard..or use the mountain passes in the wintertime,when snow/corrosives? are around up there..since I bought it in 1997?;and as I said..we get a lot of upside down road "carwashes" in this area from constant rain.

The body of the van has been touched up,and repainted here and there,because of the common 1990 era red/clear coat problems(peeling clear coats,thin paint coats showing primer after a while,appear common ,especially with that color and mostly on the hoods and roofs(why?).It's nowhere near a perfect paint job.The roof I redid in a Rustoleum Satin Silver (for reflecting properties)and clearcoat..that paint is no longer available.


I haven't noticed any whistling..but I've only been up to maybe 45 since getting it back on the road.My blue van has whisperbars and it does make a little wind noise, more with the Slim Shady folded canopy.Right now,I've removed the canopy hardware from up there,have only the rails and two bars.Yesterday I drove up to the Olympic Peninsula and back with just the rails and crossbars..190 miles at 90% at 50-60+mph..no noise problems at all with nothing above the crossbars.Usually I would notice it.;but it is winter and the windows are closed while driving.so that counts.