As threatened, I did rebuild of my differential. Please don't flame me for anything that I am sharing. I am simply being honest about what I did and how I did it. I am not advocating that anyone should do what I did. I am not a mechanic, just someone who wanted to give it a shot. Maybe someone else can learn from my experience as a rookie. So far, very happy with the results. Van is MUCH quieter than I can remember it ever being and even seems to accelerate quicker.
As far as parts, here is the run down: Master rebuild kit from Rockauto.com, $78 included pinion bearing cups and cones, pinion seal, carrier bearings, pinion nut, gear marking paint and a brush and RTV gasket maker. I chose to order a new gasket for a few dollars. I bought a new diff shaft locking bolt from Goodwrench for $3.50. Bought new rear wheel bearings and seals, synthetic gear oil and limited slip additive from autozone for a little over $100. I bought some tools from Harbor Freight. A mid-grade slide hammer set, a good quality seal/bearing driver kit and some cheap gear pullers. Between parts and tools, I probably laid out $255 for the job. NOTES: I found out that a shim kit was really not optional and I should have bought one in advance. The seal driver kit was adequate for the job and HUGELY important. Also, I would either invest in a better slide hammer to keep or borrow an industrial grade one.
![Picture1 019_resize.jpg]( "Picture1 019_resize.jpg")
First, I jacked up the rig, lost the donut so I had room to work, removed wheels and brake drums. I decided to do the wheel bearings first. Also I decided to do the job without removing the rear-end. This was a choice that my back and neck are still paying for.
![Picture1 026_resize.jpg]( "Picture1 026_resize.jpg")
![Picture1 028_resize.jpg]( "Picture1 028_resize.jpg")
![Picture1 029_resize.jpg]( "Picture1 029_resize.jpg")
![Picture1 032_resize.jpg]( "Picture1 032_resize.jpg")
The original problem is that I was getting a roaring noise that never changes pitch. I was hoping that it was merely a bearing problem and not that my gears were toast. On inspection, I was quite pleased with the condition of the ring and pinion gears. Lots of steel shavings on the magnet though.
To be continued....
As far as parts, here is the run down: Master rebuild kit from Rockauto.com, $78 included pinion bearing cups and cones, pinion seal, carrier bearings, pinion nut, gear marking paint and a brush and RTV gasket maker. I chose to order a new gasket for a few dollars. I bought a new diff shaft locking bolt from Goodwrench for $3.50. Bought new rear wheel bearings and seals, synthetic gear oil and limited slip additive from autozone for a little over $100. I bought some tools from Harbor Freight. A mid-grade slide hammer set, a good quality seal/bearing driver kit and some cheap gear pullers. Between parts and tools, I probably laid out $255 for the job. NOTES: I found out that a shim kit was really not optional and I should have bought one in advance. The seal driver kit was adequate for the job and HUGELY important. Also, I would either invest in a better slide hammer to keep or borrow an industrial grade one.
First, I jacked up the rig, lost the donut so I had room to work, removed wheels and brake drums. I decided to do the wheel bearings first. Also I decided to do the job without removing the rear-end. This was a choice that my back and neck are still paying for.
The original problem is that I was getting a roaring noise that never changes pitch. I was hoping that it was merely a bearing problem and not that my gears were toast. On inspection, I was quite pleased with the condition of the ring and pinion gears. Lots of steel shavings on the magnet though.
To be continued....
