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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’ve seen a few threads about rusted out corroded torx screws but no one ever follows up about how they did it so has anyone found a work around to rusted screws? I’m currently trying to get mine out but it’s a 2000 and I live in Michigan so it’s not going very well so is anyone out there that has successfully got there’s off the has had the same issue as me any advice or tips would be appreciated
 

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cut up a nitrile glove and put it over your torx bit -- sometimes it helps a TON with the bite of rusted Torx.

Depending on how much rust -- it can be a huge struggle.

Replace the bolts when you go to re-install.
 

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Hey there!

I literally just finished this process not an hour ago. I have the EBCM sitting on my desk and went to look up some soldering tips but saw this thread.

I also live in MI so I know the level of rust you're dealing with..... And let me tell you it is a total pain in the ***. It took me about 4 hours.

BUT, I was able to make it work using a dremel flex extension and a 1/8" tungsten cutter bit. It is pretty tight up there but with the flex extension there is just enough room to be able to maneuver the cutter bit and grind the heads off of all of the bolts

Once you get the heads off the unit will just lift off and you can replace the bolts with good stainless steel ones you can buy at a hardware store. The thread size is M4 and the length is 25mm.

Here are some tips and tricks:

  • Get an inspection mirror on a stick and a light that will mount up above the EBCM looking downwards onto the bolts
  • A good way to tell you're getting close is by finding the brass bushing that's installed into the plastic thru holes on the EBCM. Once I saw that the bolt head came off pretty soon after.
  • Put a bandana over your face and obviously wear safety goggles. Lots of little metal shavings making a nice cloud under there so you don't want to breathe it in or get it all over your face.

I'll go get some pics and post them in a few minutes
 

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OK I got to a good stopping point and went and got some pics of the tools I used as well as how I positioned the dremel and what to expect when grinding the heads off of the bolts.

First off, this is what you'll need for the job.
Wood Bicycle part Gas Fishing rod Tool


Dremel flex attachment with a carbide cutter, as I said before.

Here is the position of the dremel for the four bolts:
Wood Automotive tire Stairs Tread Water
Brown Wood Gas Tints and shades Metal
Brown Wood Automotive wheel system Brick Hardwood
Brown Wood Stairs Automotive tire Tints and shades


It is pretty tough to reach the last one in the back. Very unaccessible so I ended up taking a bit off of the plastic housing of the EBCM since I had to have the bit at an angle while grinding everything off.

I found it was also helpful to slightly bend the brake line shown in the pic on the right (silver one in the back w/ the u shape) to get more room to navigate.

To check progress during grinding I used an inspection mirror. I was able to see all of the bolts from the top this way, although again, that last bolt in the back was pretty challenging.

Here are some pics on what it will look like once you've finished up with a bolt. Keep an eye out for that brass bushing! You can JUST BARELY see the bushing in the mirror on the first pic -- this is for the far back bolt which is the biggest PITA.

Jaw Wood Auto part Metal Soil


Plumbing fixture Wood Automotive tire Gas Tap


All in all expect to spend quite a while grinding on these....

In hindsight I feel like I should have just gone through the floor TBH. I'm w/ the cost of the dremel bit and flex attachment I could have purchased an aluminum diamond plate sheet and some stainless steel carriage bolts, and some silicone caulk to make a cover for the hole. You probably would never even notice with the carpet over it. Then when this needs to be done again it would be easy to just pop the carpet up, remove the cover, and access from the top.

BUT, if you're not into cutting holes in the floor it can be done this way. Just be prepared to begrinding away with bolts for A WHILE.

Also, wear earplugs under the car because the dremel is very loud and that much sound exposure is harmful to your hearing.

Good luck, and let me know how it goes for ya!

~Walker
 

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Hats off to you guys. I punked out and bought an entire new unit and did the R&R. Money doesn’t grow on trees, but I just couldn’t see getting those off. Nice post Walkernelson67
 

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Just wanted to throw in one more tip / reminder since I just dealt with this. Get some compressed air or computer duster and clean away all of the metal shavings (of which there will be MANY) BEFORE you take the EBCM off!!!!

I neglected to do this and there are metal shavings everywhere. I think it'll be OK since it seems like the top of the valves are all sealed up, but I'm sure it is better to just not get any metal shavings there in the first place.

And when you do this, seriously cover yourself up. These little metal shavings are pretty nasty and cause skin irritation almost instantly; I honestly recommend covering yourself in a blanket when you blow these away for cleanup.

Also, thanks tungtide!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks so much for the pictures and advice you said you live in Michigan, you might as well come on over do mine while you got the tools out hahaha just joking anyways this will probably be a next weekend thing we got some rain this afternoon so I don’t really wanna lay in the wet grass right now anyways thanks again for the help this brake abs issue has been driving me nuts for a year and now seeing someone else who’s car is as rusty as mine actually get it done gives me hope
 

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Also, if you are planning a lift, do the lift first, gives you a lot more room in there to work.
 

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Not the prettiest option but thru the floor worked for me. Easy area to access/cover up. No need to subject yourself to hours of grinding on a garage floor underneath a rusty car.
😲
 
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