Looks like a nice well thought out set up. I like that you tried to recycle the wood pallets into something.
Hey, Thanks for looking at the build and thanks for the comments. I did spend a lot (too) much time planning the layout, etc. But I was trained as a mechanical engineer, so I guess it is a bit of my thing. I just hope that posting some photos and instructions can help someone else plan their build, even if my contribution is a "what-not-to-do" thing.
Yes, the pallet wood is different, in that it's oak.
When I said the wood was different, I meant that of the (now) 7 pallets I have butchered, there have been atleast 2 different types of wood they were made from. The denser wood is definitely oak. It was nearly impossible to put the tacks through while installing the T&G and would split without pre-drilling holes. Other pallets were made from a much softer and lighter wood, which I suspect is pine. The head of wood screw could sink right through the 2x4 pieces.
I do have to ask if you laid down anything prior to adding the plywood floor? Not sure how well that pergo will last, as it swells when wet.
I laid 3/8" plywood down. Its good stuff. But no, I didn't install any waterproofing materials below or above and this may come back to bite me.
Honestly, I don't have a lot of experience with Pergo flooring. I live in the desert and take the van on overnight skiing, mountain biking, and camping trips. I keep towels inside and have waterproof rugs for the skis and bikes. The big problem I see is that it gets dusty and sandy inside, which is not a cleaning problem, but when things slide on top of the pergo + sand I expect the finish will dull. There was a picture of a dog on the packaging so it gots to be tough right :? .
I was also trying to figure out the awning set up, while watching you cut the 3" pipe in half. I see you decided to "clam shell" it, and use the inside for storage, versus just rolling the awning material up and sliding it inside.
Yep. True. Everything fits in a 3" pvc pipe, barely. It seems sturdy enough to support the weight when unfolded and when there is tension on the awning.
I chose this more complicated way due to aesthetics. My roof racks are not factory and end where the front of the awning begins and I didn't want the PVC to stick out that far (4 feet) past the wind fairing. Also, b/c this 4 feet would not be supported while driving, I worried about it vibrating and bouncing.
Also, I noticed you set up the rear lighting to have all 4 come on, versus just 1 or 2 lights. Any particular reason for going that route? I would think being able to just have 1 light on at a given time might be easier on the eyes late at night.
Again, because of feel and aesthetics. The interior lights are bright, about as bright as sitting in my living room with the lights on. It would definitely be easier, and require less wiring, to have 2-3 switches controlling individual lights. But I wanted a living room type feel to the inside, where I didn't have to reach to 2-3 different spots in the van to turn off the lights for the night and I could turn them on from different entrances.
keep up the updates.
Again, Thanks so much for checking out the build.