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1997 AWD GMC Safari
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jimi_lee said:
Pigtail the + into an accessory + wire like the thick orange wire in the tow-package bundle. Wiring the + to an accessory cable allows you to use the camera when you are not going in reverse.
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Hey Jimi - where did you get the info about the orange wire in the tow package being a switched power source? Mine is always hot... found that out here - https://www.astrosafari.com/viewtopic.php?f=76&t=143110
 

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1992 Astro - Silver / Gray / 4 Wheels
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I read back over it also... I did not see where he mentions, "switched power source".
Maybe he uses a switch to turn it off individually.
You are right - Orange is "hot always", have not heard otherwise.
 

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My understanding was that accessory power means that it comes on when the key is turned to the accessory position, meaning it is switched.

Or maybe I'm wrong about that - I know I have a lot more learning to do on electrical....
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
SportsBoy said:
jimi_lee said:
Pigtail the + into an accessory + wire like the thick orange wire in the tow-package bundle. Wiring the + to an accessory cable allows you to use the camera when you are not going in reverse.
[/list]

Hey Jimi - where did you get the info about the orange wire in the tow package being a switched power source? Mine is always hot... found that out here - https://www.astrosafari.com/viewtopic.php?f=76&t=143110


Hey SportsBoy,
I see from your thread that there has already been a lot of discussion.

Its been over a year since I installed that and I honestly don't remember where I got that information from. Here is a link (https://www.astrosafari.com/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=84601) to another AS post with a diagram of the tow wiring diagram with the orange (brown) wire labelled "Aux". I assumed that would mean that the voltage was tied to the engine being on.

I will test this later today and edit the post or add a new post.
 

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1997 AWD GMC Safari
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879 Posts
jimi_lee said:
SportsBoy said:
jimi_lee said:
Pigtail the + into an accessory + wire like the thick orange wire in the tow-package bundle. Wiring the + to an accessory cable allows you to use the camera when you are not going in reverse.
[/list]

Hey Jimi - where did you get the info about the orange wire in the tow package being a switched power source? Mine is always hot... found that out here - https://www.astrosafari.com/viewtopic.php?f=76&t=143110


Hey SportsBoy,
I see from your thread that there has already been a lot of discussion.

Its been over a year since I installed that and I honestly don't remember where I got that information from. Here is a link (https://www.astrosafari.com/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=84601) to another AS post with a diagram of the tow wiring diagram with the orange (brown) wire labelled "Aux". I assumed that would mean that the voltage was tied to the engine being on.

I will test this later today and edit the post or add a new post.

I saw that exact same thread when I was trying to figure out whether the orange in the tow harness was switched or not - it made me think I was all set until I actually tested it with a multimeter and found it was always hot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
jimi_lee said:
Pigtail the + into an accessory + wire like the thick orange wire in the tow-package bundle. Wiring the + to an accessory cable allows you to use the camera when you are not going in reverse.
[/list]

SportsBoy said:
Hey Jimi - where did you get the info about the orange wire in the tow package being a switched power source? Mine is always hot... found that out here - https://www.astrosafari.com/viewtopic.php?f=76&t=143110
jimi_lee said:
Hey SportsBoy,
I see from your thread that there has already been a lot of discussion.

Its been over a year since I installed that and I honestly don't remember where I got that information from. Here is a link (https://www.astrosafari.com/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=84601) to another AS post with a diagram of the tow wiring diagram with the orange (brown) wire labelled "Aux". I assumed that would mean that the voltage was tied to the engine being on.

I will test this later today and edit the post or add a new post.
SportsBoy said:
I saw that exact same thread when I was trying to figure out whether the orange in the tow harness was switched or not - it made me think I was all set until I actually tested it with a multimeter and found it was always hot.
"Today" was a bit optimistic.

I did go back and test it. It is 100% hot 100% of the time confirming what you found and explaining why my battery is dead if I don't drive it at least 1 time every 2 weeks.

Just thought I would post that here for future reference (although it would be faster to just go outside with a multimeter than to find this post).
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
2 things:

Second: I get a clunk when driving over bumps that sounds like one or more bushings are worn. A friend also noticed. The sound is louder coming from the front passenger side. It is noticeable even when driving over bumps as small as frost heaves across a relatively new road. It is not super loud though.

In addition to what was replaced during the lift (subframe bushings), I've also replaced the sway bar bushings and end-links, idler arms, engine mounts, and front shocks. While doing the alignment, I asked the mechanic to take a look for tired bushings and he demonstrated that the lower bushing on the shock seemed quite soft when he pushed/bounced on the car. I now think they were just not torqued to spec, regardless they are replaced.

In my driveway, I can't replicate the clunk by rocking the vehicle. Nothing feels loose when I grab or lever on it (ball joints, tie rods, pitman, sway bar, etc). I laid under the van to feel the control arms and steering mechanism as my wife turned the wheels side-to-side and everything felt good. And when jacked, there is no play if I pry on the wheels side-to-side or up-and-down.

I can't figure it out. Maybe you can help?

I've taken a bunch of video of different bushings while rocking the car. Do these bushings look good to you?

Passenger Side LCA
Fore: https://photos.app.goo.gl/TPTj17HG9bDPXmxp6
Aft: https://photos.app.goo.gl/xPt9Rwtf8JWpduWp6
Passenger Side UCA
Fore: https://photos.app.goo.gl/gtnKUy5nn1jjvUHT8
Aft: https://photos.app.goo.gl/qYSJimimkFf4DXfu7
Driver Side LCA
Fore: https://photos.app.goo.gl/C8bRtsYcE9dFLAGD6
Aft: https://photos.app.goo.gl/TAMCK2rejUTQ9KmX8
Passenger Side Swaybar endlink and lower shock mount: https://photos.app.goo.gl/pP7HgQPxv8qiX5tu5
Passenger Side Lower ball joint: https://photos.app.goo.gl/8NYVjEdWjTUQNJP16

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First (I wanted the help before the photo share and tell): Performed the Wimpie 2+1 lift. I didn't intend to do the +1 part, but the driver side sat about 1" higher than the passenger side. When I checked the torsion bars, the driver's side adjustment bolt was about 1" farther than the passenger. So I leveled it out and then got an alignment. Also, the S10 springs raised the back end so high it looked ridiculous.

I didn't get a lot of photos, but then half the people on this board have done this mod.

Front went smoothly, but slow. Trimming the fan shroud with the cut-off and grinding disks for the angle grinder.

Attaching the radiator hose so it doesn't get caught in the fan.

Jacking the front to lift the frame from subframe.

Jacking the rear to swap leaf springs.

Some issues with drilling a straight hole for the rear strut relocation.

I relocated the front bumper using some 1/4" thick x 1' wide steel bar stock. Similarly, made extended brackets for the rear brake lines. I also threw on a Hellwig rear sway bar.

All-in-all. This gave me 3" of lift in the front and about 4.5" in the rear.

 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Well, timing cover is leaking pretty bad and a buddy pointed out valve train noise. Not sure how long that noise has been there. It's subtle. Tap tap tap tap...

Suggestions?

The near future list is control arms (upper and lower), front sway bar, and chasing down why the front pass. shock moves in the top mount (suspect a worn thin bolt).

Then, install the E-fan that's sitting in my office.
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Well, timing cover is leaking pretty bad and a buddy pointed out valve train noise. Not sure how long that noise has been there. It's subtle. Tap tap tap tap...
Man it's been a while.

Fixed valvetrain noise pretty soon after posting the last comment. Seems like I may have had too much engine oil? Anyway, the sound went away after replacing the engine oil.

Working on a post for the e-fan install but I didn't take many pictures and I can't find the wiring diagram I made. Maybe in the next few weeks.
 
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