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nerdferguson said:
I have skinny arms and managed to change the S-belt on the 03 without removing any shrouds or peripheral stuff. Probably took an hour of actual work, not including the time spent taking short breaks to regain my composure.
Sounds like...fun? :banana:
 

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I took mine off a few days ago, did some work on the engine, then of course put it back on. Without that water pump driven fan there's a ton of space now between the belt pulleys and the elec radiator fan. Used a 12 pt socket and a giant breaker bar from Freight By The Bay. Honestly it took about ten seconds to get it off. Maybe 60 seconds to get it back on.

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When doing the intake manifold drama, I got fast (not 60 seconds fast) at taking it on and off.

I have a big crescent wrench and a hammer to take off the clutch fan.
 

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2000 Lifted 4x4 Astro 92 V8-350 Shorty
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Ok... someone revived an old post! ^^

Ok.. it takes me about 30 sec to get the belt off.. and maybe 60 sec to put it back on. That's complete beginning to end of job!

Here's a photo of my belt: :)

IMG_1037.800.jpg
 

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Mmusicman said:
Ok... someone revived an old post! ^^

Ok.. it takes me about 30 sec to get the belt off.. and maybe 60 sec to put it back on. That's complete beginning to end of job!

Here's a photo of my belt: :)
If I might add, with a installed e-fan... I did the belt ONCE, while I had the stock clutch fan it, and I couldn't thank GM for allowing me to shoot myself in the foot for not changing to an e-fan sooner... :banghead:

~Junior
 

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jrsride2002 said:
Mmusicman said:
Ok... someone revived an old post! ^^

Ok.. it takes me about 30 sec to get the belt off.. and maybe 60 sec to put it back on. That's complete beginning to end of job!

Here's a photo of my belt: :)
If I might add, with a installed e-fan... I did the belt ONCE, while I had the stock clutch fan it, and I couldn't thank GM enough for allowing me to shoot myself in the foot for not changing to an e-fan sooner... :banghead:

~Junior
 

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I just replaced the belt on my 02 Cargo. I bought the Gates brand from NAPA.
The job was a little more difficult than other belt replacements and took about 45 minutes. After trying different approaches, and cursing enthusiastically, I tried coming around the fan from the left side, as you face the van, and first hooking the crank pulley while keeping tension on the belt. I also kept a long screwdriver handy so I could ease the belt over the alternator pulley while holding the tensioner open with a ratchet with a 4" extension. It isn't as complicated as it sounds and it did the trick.
 

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I find that for really stubborn fasteners, cussing in foreign languages often helps. For electrical parts made in Mexico, cuss in Espanol. Unless I'm working on an airplane, not much is made in Brazil so I don't need to learn to cuss in Portugese. Since nearly everything is made in China, cussing in Chinese is clearly the obvious approach. Although I'm never sure whether Mandarin or Cantonese dialect is appropriate. Luckily, all Chinese words in either dialect sound like cuss words. So simply ordering from the lunch menu will often get a stubborn nut or bolt to let loose.

Probably a good thing I don't work on Peugeot or Volvo cars. Cussing in French or Swedish sounds like a gay male prostitute soliciting tourists.

And forget about cussing in British English. They're just much too polite sounding to get any response from mechanical things.

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I just went through a little serpentine belt drama with my 1995 Safari, 178k at the time. I had some noise coming from the belt, and immediately found the tensioner pulley as the culprit. I had my mechanic replace it, and just for good measure put a new belt on it because it looked like it still had the original and was the cut type, not the constant rubber ribs with grooves.

A day later, the belt starts a chirping noise. The noise doesn't really change much no matter the condition, just speeds up with the engine rpm. My mechanic and I decided to try changing the tensioner thinking maybe there was some length difference in the different type of belt. It would come with a new pulley, so we decided to move the new pulley I had already paid for to the idler position and take that variable out of the equation. For a few minutes, I was happy. Then the same noise returned.

So, we started thinking it had to be the brand new belt. The original belt had no issue, but the bad pulley. This made us conclude there was no alignment issue. I had changed the tensioner and that pulley, so it suggested there was no tension issue.

I had purchased the new belt from O'Reilly auto parts, because they had it in stock. We noticed that the back side of the belt wasn't very smooth. There were tiny peaks and valleys in the stack of strands. We also noticed that the inside of the belt had a shine to the rubber in the valleys of the grooves. After talking with the manager of the O'Reilly store, they said they would warranty the belt for exchange. When the new one came, it had the same issue. We called the manager back, and were offered a Gates belt. If I had a choice I would have gone with it from the beginning, but it wasn't in stock at any of the local parts stores the time.

When we installed the Gates belt, we noticed it was quite a bit shorter. It was very smooth on the back side, and had no shiny surface in the grooves. It was made in Mexico like the first belt, but obviously under tighter controls. As soon as it was installed, not a peep. I have since driven over a thousand miles and it's still nice and quiet.

If you are having an issue, take a good look at your brand new belt. I could have probably avoided buying a new tensioner trying to solve the issue, but it's not too hard to take knowing that the parts that were replaced were probably going to fail soon enough as they looked original. Better to have new parts on there than to risk old ones failing 3000 miles from home where the mechanic isn't also a friend.

Hope this helps
 

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I maybe stating the obvious here , but make sure you routed it the right way , please define : run like crap, lost of power ; if your alt is turning the wrong way it sure wont generate any kinda of 12v power , dunno .
 

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1999 with 135000 miles

Squeal from the engine compartment so brought the it to an independent mechanic for O2 sensors, tranny flush, etc. He replaced the cracked belt (It has no identifying stamp. He gets his parts from a supplier in Denver) and idler pulley, which felt rough while turning it with my finger in the hole.It still squeaked so he sprayed belt dressing which helped for less than a minute. I needed the van so took it home and the next weekend I replaced the a/c bi-pass pulley which did not help. Yesterday I replaced the tensioner/pulley and that did not help. I have read that if one sprays water on the belt and the noise goes away (which mine does) then the belt needs to be replaced. I held a hose and a stethoscope to the original alternator and heard nothing. It has never occurred to me to clean the remaining pulleys. IF I decide to do that and it does not help, I want to have a new belt ready because I am tired of removing the shroud, etc. Should I purchase a Gates or do you have other brand recommendations?
 

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The "correct" way is to buy the bypass pulley and the belt for the 4.3 without ac

Oooor, you can use napa power-fit 6K849 or whatever that crosses over to to bypass the ac altogether and don't buy the pulley... your choice

napa 25-060849
gates k060849
dayco 5060850
cadna 850k6
goodyear 4060850
 
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