BTW, if you click on the pictures they both enlarge and rotate so you dont have to turn your head. 
Simple Solar Install, 100w, Charge controller...
I cant count the number of nights I have spent on the road, and camping in my van... I know I have documented at least 4 of my trips back and forth across the country here. :driving:
I have changed the interior lights to LED, and I run a small Engle refrigerator. It draws 2.4a when it runs, and runs more when the ambient temp is higher... This is not one of those Coleman type pelter plate coolers, this is a legitimate fridge that I have installed on boats for years... it is also favored by many in the off-road voyaging tribe.
I have a small (20w) panel I put on the dash when I am stopped more then a day. It can mostly keep my battery topped off.
So, I am going to install a 100w Monocrystline panel I just bought from Amazon (Renology). I cant believe how much the prices have come down! It will go over the front seats on a mount hard mounted to the roof.
It will run the wires (8ga) back along the rack to the back passenger side where they will pass through a clamshell and drop down the back pillar to the area where the jack is stored.
From there it will connect to a 20a MPPT charge controller. The panel will charge at around 5a max so the 20a controller is plenty.
For now, the output will go forward under the van in a 6g wire to the start battery. Eventually I will mount a second battery under the van in front of the fuel tank.
Here is the panel sitting where it will mount.
![image.jpeg]()
The curvature of the roof was more then I anticipated so the 2" angle aluminum is not going to make the bracket i planned. I just had to order some 3" Angle.
![image.jpeg]()
I'll update as it comes together.
I have changed the interior lights to LED, and I run a small Engle refrigerator. It draws 2.4a when it runs, and runs more when the ambient temp is higher... This is not one of those Coleman type pelter plate coolers, this is a legitimate fridge that I have installed on boats for years... it is also favored by many in the off-road voyaging tribe.
I have a small (20w) panel I put on the dash when I am stopped more then a day. It can mostly keep my battery topped off.
So, I am going to install a 100w Monocrystline panel I just bought from Amazon (Renology). I cant believe how much the prices have come down! It will go over the front seats on a mount hard mounted to the roof.
It will run the wires (8ga) back along the rack to the back passenger side where they will pass through a clamshell and drop down the back pillar to the area where the jack is stored.
From there it will connect to a 20a MPPT charge controller. The panel will charge at around 5a max so the 20a controller is plenty.
For now, the output will go forward under the van in a 6g wire to the start battery. Eventually I will mount a second battery under the van in front of the fuel tank.
Here is the panel sitting where it will mount.
The curvature of the roof was more then I anticipated so the 2" angle aluminum is not going to make the bracket i planned. I just had to order some 3" Angle.
I'll update as it comes together.
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
SO I got my 3" angle in, and cut a couple of 6" lengths. Looks like it will work just fine.
So, the dilemma I have now is that I had intended to place the base under the panel. I wanted to put them like this;
![IMG_4048.JPG]()
But now I am thinking the bases facing out to the edges of the roof might be better. This would allow them to be mounted on just the raised ridges of the roof. The raised ridge seems good to me since they are less likely to leak.
(would also be more easily mounted at right angles to the edge of the panel).
![IMG_4047.JPG]()
So, the dilemma I have now is that I had intended to place the base under the panel. I wanted to put them like this;
But now I am thinking the bases facing out to the edges of the roof might be better. This would allow them to be mounted on just the raised ridges of the roof. The raised ridge seems good to me since they are less likely to leak.
(would also be more easily mounted at right angles to the edge of the panel).
Realized I never updated this...
System works great. Installed 70ah AGM battery inside the panel behind the drivers seat where the rear heater core would be.
![045F8D56-8E4E-47C3-9949-9965B6A2A3E1.jpeg]()
The relay is connected to the primary battery (top post) with 2/0 welding cable. It is controlled by a switch on the dash.
It is a 3 position switch.
"off" leaves the relay alone and keeps both systems separate.
"On" turns the relay on and it stays on... in this position I can; Start the van on the aux battery, charge both the van and aux from the solar panel, and run all van accessories from both Aux and primary batteries (like playing the radio).
"Auto" only energizes the relay when the van is running... this is my default setting when my solor solar might not be keeping up and I don't want to take the chance of killing the van battery with the fridge and fan.
The solar controller feeds the Aux battery but could charge the van battery with the control switch on.
There are two dedicated Marinco heavy duty 12v outlets, one for the fridge and another for my fan. After years of living full time on boats with 12v I find these pricy 12v outlets are the only ones that last over time. They are wired with 10ga wire.
System works great. Installed 70ah AGM battery inside the panel behind the drivers seat where the rear heater core would be.
The relay is connected to the primary battery (top post) with 2/0 welding cable. It is controlled by a switch on the dash.
It is a 3 position switch.
"off" leaves the relay alone and keeps both systems separate.
"On" turns the relay on and it stays on... in this position I can; Start the van on the aux battery, charge both the van and aux from the solar panel, and run all van accessories from both Aux and primary batteries (like playing the radio).
"Auto" only energizes the relay when the van is running... this is my default setting when my solor solar might not be keeping up and I don't want to take the chance of killing the van battery with the fridge and fan.
The solar controller feeds the Aux battery but could charge the van battery with the control switch on.
There are two dedicated Marinco heavy duty 12v outlets, one for the fridge and another for my fan. After years of living full time on boats with 12v I find these pricy 12v outlets are the only ones that last over time. They are wired with 10ga wire.
What refrigerator are you using? I have had three Engles (sold off the other two)... they are great and don't use much power.doogaloo said:
I hope you have better luck with the flexible panels then I have, had a couple sets over the years that have not held up.... you have a great mounting arrangement, that should help a lot. I think the reason mine failed was from flexing while being moved or flapping in the wind.
Can't edit the earlier post, so here are a couple more pictures...
![9679CB5C-1BC1-400A-8CF2-01DEFC303AD1.jpeg]()
![7D780104-7BA4-4ADC-863B-70077BF02961.jpeg]()
Most solar controllers have a 'load' terminal. These are oft misunderstood, and their exact function varies slightly by the controller. On mine, this terminal has a low voltage cut out (~11.4vdc) and won't let whatever is plugged in draw the battery down any lower. I use this outlet for my fan, and for charging things like camera batteries.
![C4AEA8B6-81F1-4F31-8CF8-3931D17C15B4.jpeg]()
This outlet is from the DC Buss. The fridge plugs into this, it has its own voltage sense circuit (goes to eco mode at 12v and shuts off around 11v).
![E41045DC-E5FA-4AB8-A940-2EB2151B99E1.jpeg]()
After years of experience with different DC outlets I find the ones made by MarinCo to be the only ones that hold up... granted most of that experience was on boats and salt air is really hard on any electrical connector, but after having a cheap one catch fire years ago I find it is worth spending the coin to get the best.
Both outlets are wired with 10ga wire with 10a fuses.
Most solar controllers have a 'load' terminal. These are oft misunderstood, and their exact function varies slightly by the controller. On mine, this terminal has a low voltage cut out (~11.4vdc) and won't let whatever is plugged in draw the battery down any lower. I use this outlet for my fan, and for charging things like camera batteries.
This outlet is from the DC Buss. The fridge plugs into this, it has its own voltage sense circuit (goes to eco mode at 12v and shuts off around 11v).
After years of experience with different DC outlets I find the ones made by MarinCo to be the only ones that hold up... granted most of that experience was on boats and salt air is really hard on any electrical connector, but after having a cheap one catch fire years ago I find it is worth spending the coin to get the best.
Both outlets are wired with 10ga wire with 10a fuses.
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
