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OK, I did mine. Before I did a bunch of searches and found nothing like this so I'll post up my experience and opinions for your amusement. Oh yeah...W/PICS! With luck, the next poor slob doing this will find this post and get a little help.
If I miss or mistake anything here speak up! I'm no mechanic and don't want to mislead anyone.
First and foremost, this is a PITA, if you have any doubt as to "can I do it?" don't do it if you can afford not to. If you have any second thoughts whatsoever about your ability, stop reading and run to your mechanic. My van is a 1997 GMC Safari, RWD, 4.3L, with no AC and over 200K miles on it. 100 K hard miles on it myself for work so every bolt and fitting were frozen, rusted or corroded, making this job much more difficult. I have the repair manual and while this is great for reference you really need to know the work-a-rounds.
My victim!
This job took me from Sat. afternoon through most of Sunday, discounting dinner breaks and trips to the auto parts I would guess it took me all of 10 hours. I needed a helper only to reinstall.
Oddball tools you will need, goodies not necessarily in everyone's toolbox:
Steering Gear - removal and installation
Warning: On models equipped with airbags, make sure the steering shaft is not turned while the steering gear is removed or you could damage the airbag system.
Removal
A. Raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jack stands. Apply the parking brake.
(Be sure it's rock solid, test it, try to push it off because when you start breaking those rusty old bolts underneath it might be a little late …
B. Place a drain pan under the steering gear. Remove the power steering pressure and return lines and cap the ends to prevent contamination.
(This is one of those "workarounds". You can't get at them at the steering box so they come out with it. Disconnect them at the other ends, my truck, the return line connects underneath with a spring clamp, (circled in red)
and the pressure line is up by the reservoir into what I think is the power assist. (red circle)
Use the proper flare nut wrenches and plenty of WD unless you want to replace these lines. I tap the wrench with a hammer to free these guys. I covered them with a rag taped on rather than plugs so everything drains out.)
C. Mark the relationship of the lower intermediate shaft universal joint to the steering gear input shaft. Remove the lower intermediate shaft pinch bolt. (Again, you'll need to take this shaft and the rubber boot with the steering box and remove and reinstall them outside the truck.
Disconnect the topside; I moved the fuse box, and Loosen the boot over the intermediate shaft. (mid-shaft from here on in!) I removed 4 screws holding the top portion of the boot to the firewall. (pictured above circled in yellow) Pull the boot down to expose the upper joint of the mid shaft, reference mark both sides and remove the bolt.
This bolt needs to be removed for the clamp to slide as it catches a groove in the upper shaft. Spread the clamp a bit w/ a flathead screwdriver and it should slide off easy, the mid-shaft is telescopic.)
D. Mark the relationship of the Pitman arm to the Pitman shaft so it can be installed in the same position. Remove the nut and washer.
E. Remove the Pitman arm from the shaft with a two-jaw puller
(Again, removing this in the truck isn't likely. I separated the joint between the pitman arm and the control rod. If your pitman arm puller is the type that has movable jaws use it here.
Most of the time I can get these apart and intact with some heat on the socket and a lump hammer on the stud. Don't bugger the threads; if you do a dremel tool grinds them off nicely! If you have an air chisel, center punch the stud and let the air do the work. Lots of ways to get these apart if you don't need to replace any other parts.)
F. Support the steering gear and remove the steering gear-to-frame mounting bolts. Lower the unit, separate the intermediate shaft from the steering gear input shaft and remove the steering gear from the vehicle.
Installation prep
I pulled the lines off first, lots of WD and tapping of wrenches. Replace the o-rings and move them right over to the new steering box. Tighten them and cover the open ends.
Next, I moved the mid-shaft, remove the boot, it will pry off. The wire inside mine disintegrated so I jury-rigged it back on after moving the mid-shaft. A large hose clamp should work well here, I used fabric hockey tape. Take the mid-shaft off the steering box and install it on the new in the same direction relative to the outside of the box. Mine is keyed so I mounted to the key and turned the shaft in the proper direction. Eyeball the reference just to be sure you're in the right direction.)
To separate the pitman arm on mine I used my puller, lots of heat and tapping w/ a hammer. I put it on the new w/ the washer and nut finger tight. Again the splines have keys, 4 keys on mine, at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock. Match the orientation to the way it was removed. Tighten after installation and all is well.)
Shiny and new
Dressed to go!
Installation
A. Raise the steering gear into position and connect the intermediate shaft, aligning the marks.
B. Install the mounting bolts and washers and tighten them to the specified torque.
C. Slide the Pitman arm onto the Pitman shaft, ensuring that the marks are aligned. Install the washer and nut and tighten the nut to the specified torque.
D. Install the lower intermediate shaft pinch bolt and tighten it to the specified torque.
(UPPER mid-shaft! Don't forget to slide the upper section of the boot back on before connecting the mid-shaft. Install the shaft to your reference mark and replace the pinch bolt. Screw your rubber on and put back the fuse box.
E. Connect the power steering gear and fill the power steering pump reservoir with the recommended fluid.
(Connect the pressure and return lines, add fluid.)
(Reconnect the control arm and tighten the pitman arm.)
F. Lower the vehicle and bleed the steering system.
:driving:
This post is my way of saying thanks to all those posting before with information and helpful tips, I'm sorry I hadn't found this site sooner! I've always bought the repair manual for all my vehicles and find them to be priceless tools in my bag of tricks, now I'll keep a notebook PC on hand.
:ty:
I'm sure you guys have tips n' tricks that would save the next guy some hassles so post 'em up!
Now if someone would direct me to the instructional post about body lifts???
If I miss or mistake anything here speak up! I'm no mechanic and don't want to mislead anyone.
First and foremost, this is a PITA, if you have any doubt as to "can I do it?" don't do it if you can afford not to. If you have any second thoughts whatsoever about your ability, stop reading and run to your mechanic. My van is a 1997 GMC Safari, RWD, 4.3L, with no AC and over 200K miles on it. 100 K hard miles on it myself for work so every bolt and fitting were frozen, rusted or corroded, making this job much more difficult. I have the repair manual and while this is great for reference you really need to know the work-a-rounds.
My victim!
This job took me from Sat. afternoon through most of Sunday, discounting dinner breaks and trips to the auto parts I would guess it took me all of 10 hours. I needed a helper only to reinstall.
Oddball tools you will need, goodies not necessarily in everyone's toolbox:
- 16, 17mm flare nut wrenches
- 32mm ½" drive socket for the pitman arm
- pitman arm puller, solid 2-finger type is what I have.
- torch for heating frozen parts. Plain old bernzomatic will do just fine.
- I have an air chisel w/ a center punch. If you have a compressor and can grab one of these, do so. Otherwise, you're swinging a lump hammer at a very small punch being held by very fat thumbs!
- 2 quarts power steering fluid, I used Lucas w/ conditioners in the hopes it will give the rest of the system a little more life.
- 3 replacement o-rings for the high pressure lines, the steering box I got from Rock Auto .com came with only the 2 are used on the box.
- A gallon or two of WD40 to drown the front end is helpful also! Spray everything the day before and keep the can handy once you start. I use it with a rag before I start and wipe everything in the area just to clean the grease and grime in order to see the parts I need to see. My truck's a mess.
- The basic instruction from the repair manual with my suggestions and PICS for those of us who really don't read the articles...
Steering Gear - removal and installation
Warning: On models equipped with airbags, make sure the steering shaft is not turned while the steering gear is removed or you could damage the airbag system.
Removal
A. Raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jack stands. Apply the parking brake.
(Be sure it's rock solid, test it, try to push it off because when you start breaking those rusty old bolts underneath it might be a little late …
B. Place a drain pan under the steering gear. Remove the power steering pressure and return lines and cap the ends to prevent contamination.
(This is one of those "workarounds". You can't get at them at the steering box so they come out with it. Disconnect them at the other ends, my truck, the return line connects underneath with a spring clamp, (circled in red)
and the pressure line is up by the reservoir into what I think is the power assist. (red circle)
Use the proper flare nut wrenches and plenty of WD unless you want to replace these lines. I tap the wrench with a hammer to free these guys. I covered them with a rag taped on rather than plugs so everything drains out.)
C. Mark the relationship of the lower intermediate shaft universal joint to the steering gear input shaft. Remove the lower intermediate shaft pinch bolt. (Again, you'll need to take this shaft and the rubber boot with the steering box and remove and reinstall them outside the truck.
Disconnect the topside; I moved the fuse box, and Loosen the boot over the intermediate shaft. (mid-shaft from here on in!) I removed 4 screws holding the top portion of the boot to the firewall. (pictured above circled in yellow) Pull the boot down to expose the upper joint of the mid shaft, reference mark both sides and remove the bolt.
This bolt needs to be removed for the clamp to slide as it catches a groove in the upper shaft. Spread the clamp a bit w/ a flathead screwdriver and it should slide off easy, the mid-shaft is telescopic.)
D. Mark the relationship of the Pitman arm to the Pitman shaft so it can be installed in the same position. Remove the nut and washer.
E. Remove the Pitman arm from the shaft with a two-jaw puller
(Again, removing this in the truck isn't likely. I separated the joint between the pitman arm and the control rod. If your pitman arm puller is the type that has movable jaws use it here.
Most of the time I can get these apart and intact with some heat on the socket and a lump hammer on the stud. Don't bugger the threads; if you do a dremel tool grinds them off nicely! If you have an air chisel, center punch the stud and let the air do the work. Lots of ways to get these apart if you don't need to replace any other parts.)
F. Support the steering gear and remove the steering gear-to-frame mounting bolts. Lower the unit, separate the intermediate shaft from the steering gear input shaft and remove the steering gear from the vehicle.
Installation prep
I pulled the lines off first, lots of WD and tapping of wrenches. Replace the o-rings and move them right over to the new steering box. Tighten them and cover the open ends.
Next, I moved the mid-shaft, remove the boot, it will pry off. The wire inside mine disintegrated so I jury-rigged it back on after moving the mid-shaft. A large hose clamp should work well here, I used fabric hockey tape. Take the mid-shaft off the steering box and install it on the new in the same direction relative to the outside of the box. Mine is keyed so I mounted to the key and turned the shaft in the proper direction. Eyeball the reference just to be sure you're in the right direction.)
To separate the pitman arm on mine I used my puller, lots of heat and tapping w/ a hammer. I put it on the new w/ the washer and nut finger tight. Again the splines have keys, 4 keys on mine, at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock. Match the orientation to the way it was removed. Tighten after installation and all is well.)
Shiny and new
Dressed to go!
Installation
A. Raise the steering gear into position and connect the intermediate shaft, aligning the marks.
B. Install the mounting bolts and washers and tighten them to the specified torque.
C. Slide the Pitman arm onto the Pitman shaft, ensuring that the marks are aligned. Install the washer and nut and tighten the nut to the specified torque.
D. Install the lower intermediate shaft pinch bolt and tighten it to the specified torque.
(UPPER mid-shaft! Don't forget to slide the upper section of the boot back on before connecting the mid-shaft. Install the shaft to your reference mark and replace the pinch bolt. Screw your rubber on and put back the fuse box.
E. Connect the power steering gear and fill the power steering pump reservoir with the recommended fluid.
(Connect the pressure and return lines, add fluid.)
(Reconnect the control arm and tighten the pitman arm.)
F. Lower the vehicle and bleed the steering system.
:driving:
This post is my way of saying thanks to all those posting before with information and helpful tips, I'm sorry I hadn't found this site sooner! I've always bought the repair manual for all my vehicles and find them to be priceless tools in my bag of tricks, now I'll keep a notebook PC on hand.
:ty:
I'm sure you guys have tips n' tricks that would save the next guy some hassles so post 'em up!
Now if someone would direct me to the instructional post about body lifts???
