[gmcjunk]

Gm part #15036560
Switch Assembly, Door Jamb see pic below

This goes on body column between passenger door and sliding side door, below striker bar. $15 oreilly auto. The pin broke off so glued piece of hard foam on sliding door so pin would push in. The whole piece failed eventually and got door lock chatter from all locks at random times, up and down many times. Whenever I need a part I call dealership to see if I can get a part number because auto part store could not tell me.

 

[bryancraftyhands]

I'm not sure why you posted this, (Selling? Information share?) but I would like to say, the front door switches were $5, the sliding door was $15 at A.Z. I picked up the $5 one since they are actually all the same.

 

[gmcjunk]

I'm not sure why you posted this, (Selling? Information share?) but I would like to say, the front door switches were $5, the sliding door was $15 at A.Z. I picked up the $5 one since they are actually all the same.

Posted to share because difficult to find part number, even from dealership. Should I have presented info different? Put new one on and still get chatter but only from sliding door, before it was all doors.

 

[MechBob]

I really don't see how this could make the door locks chatter, unless perhaps you have an aftermarket alarm system.But I have been wrong before.

 

[gmcjunk]

I really don't see how this could make the door locks chatter, unless perhaps you have an aftermarket alarm system.But I have been wrong before.

No aftermarket alarm, stock that came w/ van. Plastic head of door pin switch pin broke off, put hard foam on sliding door so pin would push in all the way. That worked a month, then got constant chatter. Replaced part still chatters. There are two terminal fittings on switch. Does it matter which one? Or is there a short in the ground? Only one red wire is visible (one with terminal).

 

[ehbrown1]

I had the same problem in my 2002 Astro Van. Driving down the road and the door locks keep going nuts. Thought it was another wiring nightmare. It turned out to be the sliding door was not closed all the way when I left. The door kept triggering the switch which for some reason was locking and unlocking all of the doors, but only when driving. Closed the sliding door all the way and have never had the problem again. Another of those, who would have thought moments. The switch case is actually the ground, the purple or pink wire is the courtesy lamp control and the orange wire (if equipped) is input to the door lock module (letting you know if the door is secure or not - supposedly). Position of the wire/s is not important as they are only grounded to the case when activated. Seems there is some type of unintended feedback thru the module if the door is not closed all the way and causes the lock solenoids to go nuts. The original part number for that switch is AC Delco part # 15693389. Make certain the wire terminal is a tight fit, the switch is tightened and a dab of neverseize on the threads is cheap insurance against corrosion causing poor connectivity.

 

[MechBob]

Ah,thanks, pretty sure older ones were not wired that way

 

[bryancraftyhands]

Posted to share because difficult to find part number, even from dealership. Should I have presented info different? Put new one on and still get chatter but only from sliding door, before it was all doors.

Information is good. I guess you had it under the correct sub of electrical, I was just confused as to the purpose is all. Maybe an "FYI" might have helped cleared that up, but I'm not picky or anyone that calls the shots. I wasn't sure if you were looking for something or sharing the info. Got it now.👍🙂 (sometimes (often actually) I'm a little slow)

 

[gmcjunk]

I had the same problem in my 2002 Astro Van. Driving down the road and the door locks keep going nuts. Thought it was another wiring nightmare. It turned out to be the sliding door was not closed all the way when I left. The door kept triggering the switch which for some reason was locking and unlocking all of the doors, but only when driving. Closed the sliding door all the way and have never had the problem again. Another of those, who would have thought moments. The switch case is actually the ground, the purple or pink wire is the courtesy lamp control and the orange wire (if equipped) is input to the door lock module (letting you know if the door is secure or not - supposedly). Position of the wire/s is not important as they are only grounded to the case when activated. Seems there is some type of unintended feedback thru the module if the door is not closed all the way and causes the lock solenoids to go nuts. The original part number for that switch is AC Delco part # 15693389. Make certain the wire terminal is a tight fit, the switch is tightened and a dab of neverseize on the threads is cheap insurance against corrosion causing poor connectivity.

I had the same problem in my 2002 Astro Van. Driving down the road and the door locks keep going nuts. Thought it was another wiring nightmare. It turned out to be the sliding door was not closed all the way when I left. The door kept triggering the switch which for some reason was locking and unlocking all of the doors, but only when driving. Closed the sliding door all the way and have never had the problem again. Another of those, who would have thought moments. The switch case is actually the ground, the purple or pink wire is the courtesy lamp control and the orange wire (if equipped) is input to the door lock module (letting you know if the door is secure or not - supposedly). Position of the wire/s is not important as they are only grounded to the case when activated. Seems there is some type of unintended feedback thru the module if the door is not closed all the way and causes the lock solenoids to go nuts. The original part number for that switch is AC Delco part # 15693389. Make certain the wire terminal is a tight fit, the switch is tightened and a dab of neverseize on the threads is cheap insurance against corrosion causing poor connectivity.

I dont see any of the other colored wires; only red with the terminal that goes to switch. There are two sides, did attach to wrong side? Terminal is tight, so tight that hard to get off, dont want to mess with it till know certain other side might work. Switch is tight.
Could switch be bad? Way to test w/ multimeter?

 

[gmcjunk]

Information is good. I guess you had it under the correct sub of electrical, I was just confused as to the purpose is all. Maybe an "FYI" might have helped cleared that up, but I'm not picky or anyone that calls the shots. I wasn't sure if you were looking for something or sharing the info. Got it now.👍🙂 (sometimes (often actually) I'm a little slow)
[/QUOTE
Should have put image and intro on bottom, not top. I get how might be confussing. Thanks for feedback.

 

[AstroWill]

The door kept triggering the switch which for some reason was locking and unlocking all of the doors, but only when driving. Closed the sliding door all the way and have never had the problem again. Another of those, who would have thought moments.
Position of the wire/s is not important as they are only grounded to the case when activated. Seems there is some type of unintended feedback thru the module if the door is not closed all the way and causes the lock solenoids to go nuts.

I'm sure that it has to do with a combination of the auto door locks and the fact that the door lock actuator is only connected through the contact plate when the door is closed. So when you are driving and the pin switch says that the sliding door was just closed, it thinks that it should lock it, with the worn out pin switch it keeps repeating that process.

Exact setup of the pin switch might vary by year, some might have 1 wire, others might have 2.

 

[ehbrown1]

Some are single wire, lamp only depending on model and lighting package. To check the switch, remove it and test for continuity between threads and either terminal. With plunger extended - resting, should have continuity - closed circuit. When you depress the button, that will open the circuit and you will have no reading - open circuit. Other than that, wire position means nothing as both terminals are grounded when the door is open. Check where the terminals contact the switch base. Look for corrosion or old dry grease which may affect contact. Also, check the distance the pin protrudes from the body when installed. It should be 20mm or 3/4" to the head of the pin. I have seen some pins where the actual pin was too short and required a shim washer on the switch base. If the switch checks out, look at the door lock contacts, springs and pins. Clean them with scotchbrite and apply a little grease or even vaseline. Make sure the door is closing all the way as well. May need to adjust latch.

 

[gmcjunk]

Some are single wire, lamp only depending on model and lighting package. To check the switch, remove it and test for continuity between threads and either terminal. With plunger extended - resting, should have continuity - closed circuit. When you depress the button, that will open the circuit and you will have no reading - open circuit. Other than that, wire position means nothing as both terminals are grounded when the door is open. Check where the terminals contact the switch base. Look for corrosion or old dry grease which may affect contact. Also, check the distance the pin protrudes from the body when installed. It should be 20mm or 3/4" to the head of the pin. I have seen some pins where the actual pin was too short and required a shim washer on the switch base. If the switch checks out, look at the door lock contacts, springs and pins. Clean them with scotchbrite and apply a little grease or even vaseline. Make sure the door is closing all the way as well. May need to adjust latch.

Hello. Continuity was good. 12.5 volts from red connecting wire. Did everything else you suggested. Door reveal looks even and door closes decent. The outside door handle feels a bit off but has always been that way. Problem started when switch pin broke. The chattering went away completely. It was really moist and rainy when it did make noise. Are the wires getting shorted from this? My body shop guy thought might be from computer? Also front driver door lock lever inside doesnt work with remote, do it manually. Thought this might be causing a hicup.
Thanks.