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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had a forum member asking me about lifting. I'm posting my answer here so other people who are wondering can read too.

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You have to remember that this is a van and just wasn't designed for heavy duty off-road, such as a jeep or land rover, but you can't sleep in those. Astro/Safaris are missing off-roading features like high clearance, solid front axles and 2-speed transfer case, but with a little bit of work and money you can make a wicked camping van that is quite capable off-road. Some people go really nuts with their vans, dumping huge sums of money and time into it, which I don't have, and if I did I would get a proper vehicle. I got an Astro because it is the only large van that already comes with AWD. Cheap! And plenty of parts available.

The AWD system these vans have is awesome in the snow. The narrow tires cut right through it. 30" tires are recommended with the 4 inch lift, and that's already tight. That's what I have, and I had to do some trimming to avoid rubbing. I also like to leave room for chains. I know other people have attached bigger ones, but they have either added more lift (much more work) or gutted their wheel wells. Don't forget that the more you lift or the bigger tires you use, the more stress you're going to put on axles, suspension, steering linkage and brakes, so you can expect to replace those more often. You might consider a big brake upgrade (search the forum for that). Don't forget that lifting and bigger tires will also make it a bit top-heavy.

Good luck!
 

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I run 235/75-15 tires on my AWD LS w/ 2" lift. I get a tiny bit of rub, but that's because of the LS body kit. I built the lift kit myself...
I couldn't agree more about using the Astro a camper and winter rig!!
Next trick is to add the transfer case and front axle from a 1500 V6 Z71. Looks like a simple swap...
 

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I was wondering do you need to buy the lift kit or could you use say the following parts?

Do you think either of the 2" blocks on this page would be the correct blocks to lift the front end? How many would I need?
http://zoneoffroad.com/product-acc2?ki=91

Then maybe the S10 2" shackels would work?(S10 leaf springs bolt right in right?)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SHACKLES ... 240%3A1318

Then just buy all my own hardware and make my front bumper work and trim my engine fan shroud. I have a old Van '92, so my steering should be long enough for a 2" lift?

If these parts would work I could do a 2" lift pretty cheaply(less then $100) & fit my 235/75/r15's without a problem.

Although it almost looks like 235/75/r15's could fit without a lift?
 

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I'd go w/ the 2"x3" blocks. You need 6. $18 is pretty cheap! Those shackles look good and the same guy also has clocked torsion bar keys. I may have to get myself a set of those if they are the right ones!

Question I have is, will the shackles fit? IME, parts from the 1500 V6 pickups, work, but S-10 parts don't.

"Although it almost looks like 235/75/r15's could fit without a lift?"

Almost!
 

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Does anyone know if Overlands is still in business?
^Their 2" lift kit is $300, but if you buy the parts seperate in the chassis section it only $200 total??
 

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OK, I shot off a PM to "doyoulikeithere" about lifting my Van and I asked him about those blocks and those shackels that I provided a link for a couple post up. I wanted to share his reply in case it might help answer some questions. He full of good lift info for sure! :cool:

"doyoulikeithere" 's reply to me...... :clap:
First you need to convert your front spring hangers on the pre 96 van, to spring hangers from an after 96 van style. (clamshell vs eyebolt).
After you do that, astro and s10 springs have the same lengths etc and can swap. DOnt bother trying to use the glass springs, sell them off if they are still ok.

Front blocks. - The set i got from dan-overland had 2 blocks with a 12 stamped on them, and 4 with a 10 stamped on them. The bolts were similar, a set of 2 12's and 4 10s. The bigger ones are centres, and the smaller are the ends. I suspect the better the bolt fits in the tube thru the block, the better your truck will hold to the frame. Be a bit carefull here, pull your current bolts and check the sizes. Check the size of the thru tube on the lift blocks your buying as well, get a good fit. Avoid broken bolts that way on the trail under flex. Then tighten up your torsion bars till you get enough lift but dont bottom out the stops when your suspension fully extends after a bump.

Those shacles look they will work, but not sure about quality. They only have 2 inches lift and dont have multiple holes for adjust. Not as nice as dan's. I like the overland shackles a lot and would buy them if nothing else They have 3 inches, and 3 bolt holes to adjust with. That being said - dont you need to get some steel springs still, if so get them from a spring shop with lots of ark, and a set of 2 inch axle blocks, and you wont need shackles at all. Will handle better that way too, but not at all adjustable like Dans shackles tho. Hmmm Decisions....
 

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I have been gone a while. What happened to all the lifting information? There used to be pages of detailed information and pictures of lifts, problems, solutions, custom shadetree modifications, skid plates, sliders, etc.

The astro is an awesome van to lift. It looks tons better (the way it should have come from the factory), doesn't have to look "off road" and is not that difficult to do. Depending upon you model it can be as simple as cranking the torsion bars and spring shackles or blocks. The sub frame lift is not hard. Overlandvans has most of the parts if you want astro specific stuff.

It makes a wonderful camping vehicle and some of the AWD versions come with a G80 "locker" stock. If you remove the rear seat you can still seat 5 adults and have a huge cargo area (more than a suburban).

Lift away!

rearden
 

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Tons of info on here or the old site? I would love to read up on it and look at pics! :rockon:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
In retrospect, I should have done a home-made lift and saved lots of money. I should have tried to source the shocks and shackles locally instead of shipping them through the US and then across the Canadian border. I also should have welded in pipes instead of using blocks.
 

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Hi, I'm new to the site and have been reading some of the post on lifting these vans. I'm in the process of lifting my second Astro. My first was a 1992 and I started with a homemade 3" lift and eventually upgraded it to a 4". I did a subframe lift up front and used blocks between monoleafs and rear axle. I made an adapter plate to install a two speed transfer case, to make it a true 4wd. I swaped out the front axle carrier with one out of a chevy S10. I haven't found any mention of this swap so far but the S10 carrier is a direct bolt in replacement. You just have to find a way to shift the axle in and out of 4wd. I used the S10 actuator cable & vacuum diaphram. I controlled it with a 12v soleniod valve that was switched on when the transfercase was pulled into 4wd. I was running 30X9.50-15 tires. Also fabricated custom bumpers.
I'm currently working on lifting a 1998 Astro. Up front I'm fabricating 5" lift blocks that push the subframe 2" forward. This gives me more clearance with rear of the front fender wells. I will be fabricating another set of bumpers so clearnce at the front of the fenderwells and bumper won't be an issue. Additionally I've installed a set of reindexed torsionbar keys for a total of about 8" lift up front. In the rear I've installed a set of 4" heavy duty leaf springs, adjustable shackles and 2" lift blocks from Overland Vans. I will mention that some of thier dimensions seem to be off. The 2" lift blocks actually measured 2&1/2". With the adjustable shackles set in thier lowest postition the rear was sitting several inches higher than the front. I milled an inch off of the lift blocks and the rear is still about 1&1/4 higher than the front. I reworked the transfercase adaptor and have a NP241 transfer case installed. I'm planning on using an S10 front carrier for now but may try adapt something heavier in the future. I currently have it setting on 32X11.50-15 tires but now realize that with this set up I could have fit 33X12.50-15's. I hope to be able to post some picture as I go. I look forward to hearing comments or advice.
 

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Agnmore said:
Hi,
I look forward to hearing comments or advice.
Hi back! and welcome.
Post up pics, we need pics here. Rule 6B applies here too,
Pics or it Didn't Happen :lol:

You must be a glutton for punishment, here you'll get comments and more advice than you ever wanted...

Glad to have you, post in introductions to say hello and start a build thread with what you've done and plan to.
Oh yeah,
bit of advice,
post pics!!!
 

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More a nuts and bolts kinda guy than a computer geek. Working on getting those pictures. Did get the steering shaft extended last night, thanks to my insomnia but I guess none of that happened because I didn't have a camera handy. :doh:
 

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Agnmore said:
Hi, I'm new to the site and have been reading some of the post on lifting these vans. I'm in the process of lifting my second Astro. ...
Welcome Agnmore!

It's always GREAT to see another lift project, and equally interesting when you exceed "typical" lifts on how you accomplish this!

My van is obviously a combination of suspension and body lifts. My body lift appears to me to be a custom welded job (it was bought this way)... made out of steel tubing with welded cross supports. I'm certain, with this level of lift, it is essential to some level of safety and structural integrity.

I am uncertain how my actual body lift is measured compared to store-bought lift pucks. It measures 7 1/2"... but stock spacing would need to be subtracted.



The rest of the front lift has apparently been done with some minor torsion bar adjustment. I have no idea how far it could be cranked additionally, but the ride is perfect so I'll leave it alone where it is now.

Once you exceed "typical" lift, numerous other modifications will become issue. The engine will sit lower in engine compartment. The stock fan will no longer line up with shroud... electric fans become one solution. Air cleaner will need mod or relocation. A/C, transmission, and brake lines will need tweaks. Steering shaft will need to be extended. Bumper will need relocation. Shocks of course, will need to be longer.

Some trimming of fender panels may be required depending on tire size. Mine were done very modestly to accommodate 31" tires, and don't have that hacked look.

Rear suspension however, is much easier. Just need to account for proper pinion angle when lifted.

We look forward to seeing your progress... and seeing the PHOTOS!

You should start your own new thread on your project! Good luck!

Cheers!
 

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Thanks for the pictures and constructive advice Musicman. I have my lift blocks fabricated and plan to tie them together in some sort of similar fashion . I've taken a few pictures with my 35mm camera and my son has taken many more with his dgital camera. Still waiting on him to e-mail them to me. As soon as I have some pictures I'll start a thread on the build.
 

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Musicman, I've seen a number of pipe lifts since I've joined the forums used most often for the higher lifts. They are stronger for lateral stresses than the pucks w/ long bolts. Pipe lifts use the stock bolts and body mounts. Yours is the only lift I've seen that used diagonals, seems to me an excellent idea for the high ones.

On yours it looks like they welded the pipe to the body w/ the mounts underneath, all I've seen till now have been welded to the frame w/ the mounts on top of that.
tinworm said:
so some small project updates-

for the pipe lift, I decided things would be way easier cutting if I did square pipe instead of round, so I used some 4 inch square instead. Just have to finish welding it up, but everything is tacked.

sizing the square stuff, went with a 3.5 lift-




everything tacked, hopefully get it welded this weekend-


Agnmore, I'll be looking for the build thread. :poke: :thumbup:
 
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