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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I've been dealing with p0300 for a while on my 2002 safari. I have replaced the distributor, dist shaft, and cap. Replaced coil, fuel filter, spark plugs, and wires. I just made it to 300 miles after all that and the SES light came back on with a new addition of P0172 and P0175. It's idles a little rumbly and will sometimes have to crank a little(3-5 seconds) to start but about half the time it starts first turn.
I'm about to take it on a 12 hour round trip road trip in 4 days so I'm willing to do about anything
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I can rent one tomorrow and do that. What would I be looking for? Also how do I do that? All I've been able to find is plug the gage into the shreader valve in the dog house towards the back and turn the engine to on. Look for 50-55 psi. I assume that if I turned it off and lost pressure that it would signify a leak? Or would I have to clamp the fuel line?

I also replaced the IAC since I saw that helped someone else with the 172/175 codes. I drove around for 10 minutes at an average of 45-50mph to reset it. The idle might be a little better?? My mirror seems to shake a little less haha still no change to any of the codes
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So I did the leak down test and it started at 60psi and after 5 minutes has dropped to 30 psi. It just slowly loses pressure. Everything I've read says it is supposed to rapidly drop to 0. Any thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
60psi to start is good, should have dropped 2psi or less in 10min.

Have you heard about the GM Techline eSI OVA edition?
I looked around and no noticable leaks, so i guess I can assume it's leaking somewhere under the plenum.

And no, I saw one of your links to them, but the link was broken
 

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Common Sense + Critical Thinking
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Take your time, use the torque, also if they haven't been replaced already make sure to do the LIM gaskets while you are there.
Is there anything else that I can do while im in there?
So far I have:
spider injector assembly(regulator, injectors ect.)
LIM gasket(not exactly sure what this is but I can figure that out.)

I bought the van for $700 so I expected to have to wrench on it, I would just rather only have to do a job like this once haha
 

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LIM = Lower Intake Manifold, the gaskets deteriorate and then you have coolant leaks. It's not a question of IF they will leak, simply WHEN.

When you do the injectors you will be most of the way there, so you might as well do it at the same time. It's not hard to do if you follow the directions, get the good set of gaskets with the metal in them, Leeann usually pops in with a great link.

You might find some rotten hoses while you are in there, maybe valve cover gaskets leaking, drill out the coil rivets and replace them with some m4 bolts, ~25mm long x2 Makes it easier to replace down the line if you need to.


Edit: Links
Injector spider: http://amzn.to/2o45wTg or
Gaskets: https://amzn.to/3CWpN2X
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
LIM = Lower Intake Manifold, the gaskets deteriorate and then you have coolant leaks. It's not a question of IF they will leak, simply WHEN.

When you do the injectors you will be most of the way there, so you might as well do it at the same time. It's not hard to do if you follow the directions, get the good set of gaskets with the metal in them, Leeann usually pops in with a great link.

You might find some rotten hoses while you are in there, maybe valve cover gaskets leaking, drill out the coil rivets and replace them with some m4 bolts, ~25mm long x2 Makes it easier to replace down the line if you need to.


Edit: Links
Injector spider: http://amzn.to/2o45wTg or
Gaskets: https://amzn.to/3CWpN2X
Curious, What does the fuel leak into? the intake? I haven't noticed any fuel in my oil. I ordered the gasket kit you linked and the assembly said it wouldnt ship to cali so i will be ordering from rockauto. I assume the hoses are just basic rubber hoses I can get at any LAPS? The coil rivets though, are these for the ignition coil? or are they helicoil things? Not sure what you are talking about. Im planning to do this after the next work week so ive got some time to get the parts together.
Im also taking the van on a trip this weekend about 5 hrs away. Based on how its running I dont think this is an issue, unless someone says otherwise.
 

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What does the fuel leak into? the intake?
Exactly, it leaks into the intake and it's just like adding extra fuel to the engine, which the computer sees and then shortens the injector pulses to make up for it.
I assume the hoses are just basic rubber hoses I can get at any LAPS?
For the vacuum hoses yes. I prefer regular hose.
The coil rivets though, are these for the ignition coil?
Yes, for the ignition coil, you will see when you pull the engine cover.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Welp I replaced the intake manifold gasket along with the spider injector. I followed all the directions and felt like I had done the job 100% right. But I started it up today after letting the RTV in the valley cure for 24 hrs. and now it appears that coolant is now mixing with my oil. I eyeballed the first two passes on the intake manifold torque and hit the final torque of 11 ftlbs(the LAPS didnt have a small enough in-lb. torque wrench. it only went as low as 120 in-lbs) I suspect that I did dump a lot of coolant when I pulled the manifold, but just changed the oil and it seems that my gasket is leaking. Is there anyway to test for a coolant system leak?
Or if I put too much coolant in the intake could I have blown my head gasket since the coolant cant compress?

On first startup It also smoked a bunch for a minute or so. I suspect this is from getting coolant down the intake. after changing the oil I started it and it didnt smoke all too much. If I have to do this job again I will probably drain my coolant system.
 

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Draining the coolant is like step number 2 after disconnecting the battery. If you didn't you definitely got quite a bit of coolant down there.

You can use a pressure tester that you can often borrow from your LAPS and test the cooling system for leaks. You will definitely need to change that oil a couple of times to get all of the coolant out of there.

The upper intake should be torqued properly as well, HF and Amazon sell some pretty cheap torque wrenches, it's worth having the proper tools. Did you use loctite on the bolts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
🙄well I guess I missed that one. I was wondering why nobody else was having issues with coolant on youtube... Ill try and grab a pressure tester from work. they have the kind that screw onto the radiator cap. Ill probably snake a torque wrench too. I did not loctite the bolts 😬Is it too late if I should?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Sounds good! I have no idea how I didnt find that while I was researching. Sure would have been nice haha. Lets see if I can still fix it
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I pressure tested the coolant system and it help 15 psi for 15 minutes! Also flushed the oil about 4x and the coolant. No more coolant in the oil and all the engine vitals look good! Van starts a lot better. Gonna do a fuel pressure test today, forgot to do that while I had the dog house apart, but im hoping that it will be good to go! Thank you all for the help!
 
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