[Mmusicman]

The old 4.3 in my 92 Astro made it to 282,000 original miles! A recent tick that developed into a knock turned out to be a broken piston skirt...not sure how it happened. Oil pressure still strong.

I'm swapping with a 350. I have no intention of using the computer. The 350 engine is carbureted, and is originally from a very low mileage 70 Caprice. (No emissions in Fla) The engine has a nice rumpity-rump high torque cam and intake installed, gets great mileage and runs AWESOME!

I have already purchased the custom swap V8 motor mounts, and Hedman shorty headers.

Here are my initial questions:

1) I assume the only issue with the 700R4 will be the lock-up converter (assuming I want to use it)? I've been told to either add a toggle-switch, or possibly a vacuum switch to operate it... assuming the converter is sufficient to use behind a V8? (I have a nice new TH350 with B&M 11" Holeshot converter, but I think I'd miss the overdrive).

2) The stock A/C system runs on a serpentine belt, the older engine is V-belt of course. I assume I will need to swap water pumps with a proper reverse pump that will work with serpentine system. What pump will I need? Will the V6 pump interchange? I'm assuming the powersteering and alternator will bolt up ok?

3) I also assume I will have to do something with the cooling system, fan, shroud, radiator, etc.

I will be pulling the motor from the front (working in my home garage)

The motor will be naturally aspirated (carbureted)... using HEI distributor. Fuel delivery will be stock system, with a regulator.

The other mods seem fairly obvious to me. I will have ALL the accy's available from the stock V6... if any are needed and can be used.

I have been waiting for many years for the V6 to finally die, the V8 has been patiently waiting! I just couldn't bring myself to pull a perfectly good running engine... but now the time has come.

I plan to run full dual exhaust as well.

I know there is a wealth of info here on this site... which I will be reading. I'm excited about my new advanture... as I have been a hot-rodder all my life! My last G-van had a supercharged 502. This current V8 was in my '69 Chevelle convertible.

Now it's the Astro's turn for an upgrade! It's a shorty with wide-tires and Centerline rims... and should be a perfect match!

Thanks for any advice and suggestions!

EDIT: FIX MISSING PHOTO

 

[gavio]

That's sure gonna be one cool little hotrod.....

 

[markmitch]

ok first thing, the brackets and alternator and all that should bolt on the 350 except the older style heads you have may not have the bolt holes but you can make a few small brackets going from the intake down to the front of the heads for added support. There will be a few plugs that will need to be extended. The trans with all them miles will most likely grenade eventually behind the more powerful V8 as for the lock up converter the toggel switch will work. All the pulleys will bolt onto the V8 including the crank pulley.
The water pump will swap from V6 to V8 and the cooling system will handle the V8 but you will want to use an electric fan because the engine fan will not fit. if you go with the electric fan you will not need to use the shroud at all. Good luck!

 

[WoodButcher]

Pretty van, nice you don't need to deal with the emission police.

 

[chevymaher]

Nice on both counts. The new van and the chevelle.
No pics of the chevelle I am downtrodden. Let me see it, so I got motivation to finish mine.
The 70 V-8 has the exact same engine mount holes in the block and head, as the V-6.
Everything will bolt right on. Water pump, aluminum brackets, pulleys the whole nine yards. Only thing you got to mess with then is the rear A/C compressor brace. 2 holes on a steel rod, shoot the V-6 one may even fit a hole in the intake on the V-8. If not easy fix.

Good looking Gen 1. Congrats.

 

[Mmusicman]

...The 70 V-8 has the exact same engine mount holes in the block and head, as the V-6. Everything will bolt right on. Water pump, aluminum brackets, pulleys the whole nine yards...

That sounds awesome! I sure hope your right!

Thanks for the support and encouragement guys! The swap is not something I needed in my life right now... but then again there is probably no better time than now to do it. I am very glad to hear that most everything will bolt up! That is a HUGE relief!!

I was aware there could be a potential issue with a missing bolt hole on the head, or that it could be fine. The heads and block are still stock. You say the brackets, as well at the water pump will bolt on... that would be awesome!

The van is actually used to haul DJ sound equipment, and lives in the garage. I recently replaced all the clutches in the 700R4 with new, when I was replacing a broken sprag. I don't really intend to beat it up (like I used to)... so I'll give the 700R4 a shot behind the V8. If it fails, I'll throw the TH350 in it... which has a really tight shift and new holeshot converter.

The motor originally came from a 70 Caprice driven by a little old lady, and had very low mileage. When I pulled it (and junked the car)... I replaced a crappy 307 in my Chevelle with it. I've always called 307's "dumpster motors". I grabbed a bunch of crap lying around the garage, an old Erson Stage II Cam, headers, Edelbrock intake & 4bbl carb, and threw it all together. The motor came to LIFE!!! I've never had a more torquey crisp little motor than this one. The car would burn rubber as long as you layed on the thottle! It has a real choppy rumpity rump idle to about 1500rpms, thens hits a strong torque range.

The Chevelle wound up being stored outdoors in a field for many years, and fell into rough condition. Eventually, I sold it to a good friend a few years ago, who is in process of full ground up restoration, but I kept the motor and trans (saving it for the Astro). I knew the V6 couldn't last forever... but I was starting to wonder. It really was running perfectly until it developed the tick, and never burned any oil. Oh well... I got my money's worth on that one!

I'm in the process of prepping workspace in my garage, as well as prepping the 350 with new gaskets ... which is all it needs. Low mileage, but 44 years old! LOL

Here's a photo of the Chevelle it was in (photo taken at Fiesta Key, Fl)

 

[Mmusicman]

New question: (don't know if I should post here or start new thread, but I'll try here first)

As stated, I will be using carburated engine in place of my 4.3 which on my '92 I believe has TBI?
I would like to continue using the stock fuel pump (located in tank).

1) What is the fuel pressure from the stock pump? I've read the pressure is not the same as fuel injection?
2) What regulator do I need?

I'm sure it needs a fuel return, but I'm confused on the pressure ratings and what I need.

New parts ordered for the v8 on their way!~ Thanks again.

 

[chevymaher]

Stock TBI pump is in the 14 lb range. It is fuel injection. The CPI has much higher pressure 55 lbs or so. It doesn't matter which pump it has because they both need the return and bypass.
You need a fuel pressure regulator with a return for a carb. 5-7 lbs.
It is listed when you buy it what it is for. Return line is already there as part of the TBI. Or the CPI for that matter.
Stock mechanical pumps are that range and they never flood if the carb is good.

 

[WoodButcher]

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinf ... cc=1165216
According to rock auto that is a replacement for your stock fuel pump in the '92 astro, I chose that one as an example because it showed the most info on the pump ratings. Look up your the vehicle your engine came out of to find what you need. Look in the service manual from the donor vehicle to see what you will need as to return lines and evap systems.

edit- Your too fast for me Randy :lol:

 

[Mmusicman]

Thanks guys, you confirmed exactly what I needed to know... thanks.

 

[Mmusicman]

Ok... the V6 is stripped down and coming out today!

 

[Astrofarian]

If you haven't already....I would take the bumper off AND unbolt the master cylinder from the booster....leave the lines in place but give the master a bit of wiggle room. :2:

 

[BigWheelinBubba]

You'll love having a V8. It's a lot of fun catching people off guard
I was messing with a C5 Z06 in traffic a couple of weeks ago with an older guy driving it. When we finally caught a light he got in the right turn lane. I said , what are you scared of a mini van? He said yeah, actually I am! I never saw one keep up to a Vette! LOL

Don't worry, you'll eventually want it faster. It's an addiction

 

[Mmusicman]

If you haven't already....I would take the bumper off AND unbolt the master cylinder from the booster....leave the lines in place but give the master a bit of wiggle room. :2:

Thanks for the suggestion... I considered it. I think I will try and see if it clears... I will let you know. I intend to drop the V8 in with the headers already attached.. so I will need the clearance both ways.

Everything is off the V6... bolts are all out! Time to lift it out! I can't believe how much I had to disconnect to finally get to the engine! Most of it won't be going back in.

More photos coming soon...

 

[DRZ]

I had to do away with the hook on my "cheery picker" and bolt it right the the chain to get clearance to lift the engine out. Don't know if that is necessary all the time but it was what worked for me.

 

[chevymaher]

I took my bumper off. It may come out with it on but it will be in the way. In the pic the hoist wouldn't be close enough with the bumper there.
Master cylinder I left on and it was no problem.
Take the distributor out and the intake off. Put the chain across the intake bolts. One side in front the other in the rear. I left the hook on the cherry picker. With the intake off there is plenty of room.

 

[Mmusicman]

I took my bumper off. It may come out with it on but it will be in the way...

IT'S OUT!!! I've pulled a lot of V8's (in cars and vans)... but this was my first V6!

I did not need to pull the bumper, it was not in my way at all! My cherry picker arm has the ability to extend out, but I didn't need to go too far. I think my cherry picker is much larger than some (see photo).. maybe that's why I didn't need to pull the bumper.

I did unbolt the master cylinder as well from the booster (just to be safe), since it was only 2 simple nuts and very easy to do. Turns out the engine would have cleared, but this was too easy and why chance the lines getting banged up (sometimes the motor can twist a little with a tight hook). I just pushed the master cylinder slightly to the side.

I did strip the engine down about as far as you can go... particularly EVERYTHING on top! This mainly includes distributor and TPI unit, as well as everything else... only leaving the manifold. This is done for clearance reasons.

I've always pulled van engines from the front, and this Astro was no problem either!

Yes, you have to put the cherry picker arm in place as tight against the engine as possible. I turn the arm upside down and pull the hook into the arm almost as far as it will go... so it barely sticks out. Then I attach the chain to the engine at opposite corners of the heads, with it as tight as I can hook it across the manifold. The manifold did not need to come off either, but the clearance was close. The van (front end only) also has be be lifted and angled as high as you can get it with a floor jack and jack stands. My jack stands were fully extended under the lower control arms.

Then you simply start lifting, pull forward some, lift some more, pull forward more... essentially stepping it up and out! Everything cleared easily!

I did it by myself and it was a breeze! There was way more than enough clearance for the exhaust headers too! I did not have a single issue! It took only a couple minutes to actually lift it out.

Anyone considering a front pull on a Gen I van, I highly recommend it!

 

[DRZ]

All but one of the V8 swaps I've done were on Gen 1 vans and I DO like the unbolted radiator support plan on them.

 

[Lumpy]

In the old VW busses with rear engines, you could put a spare tire and couple of 2x4s under the engine, disconnect 4 bolts to the transaxle, a fuel line and a throttle cable, remove one piece of rear trim and then just push the bus forward off the engine.

I don't suppose you can do something similar with a 4.3 in an Astro.

Lump

 

[WoodButcher]

Take lots of pics going in please, I'm still unsure of which way I want to go.