Direct intervention from god.aztec1987 said:
V8 SWAP LIST
I have taken what many of the Original members have listed on the old site of what is needed and what is recommend to get for the TBI V8 swap so here it is if I missed anything let me know and I gladly add it to this list and hopefully it will get pinned.
1) The V8 (Preferably same year as your van but not necessary)
2) Motor Mounts (Available Two places Through Jakepatch or http://www.jagsthatrun.com)
3) TB bracket from V8 if not on motor
4) V8 fuel injectors (Need to put them on Astro TBI don't forget rebuild kit)
5) 7747 computer w/V8 chip Or new chip from http://www.tbichips.com
6) V8 exhaust manifolds or Headman headers (68600) (use copper gaskets)
7) V8 distributor
8) Wire and connectors to lengthen some wires
9) Nipple for the back of the manifold
10) V8 knock sensor if using TBI
11) Truck valve covers
12) Thermostat housing for V8 (Don't use V6 housing hole too small)
13) Front tranny seal (better do it now while its easy to get too)
14) Transgo shift kit
The following has been recommended by several members
(You don't need but are strongly recommended)
1) intake w/ all acc. connected from an 87-92 van or truck 305 or 350 will make connecting everything easy to connect rather than trying to make the V6 stuff fit.
2) Tranny cooler
3) Oil cooler
4) Flowkooler disc in waterpump vanes
5) 3 flu radiator out of an 89 Astro (heavy duty)
6) Taurus electric fan
7) vette servo
hope this helps you all!!! :banana: :layrubber:
1) The V8 (Preferably same year as your van but not necessary)
2) Motor Mounts (Available Two places Through Jakepatch or http://www.jagsthatrun.com)
3) TB bracket from V8 if not on motor
4) V8 fuel injectors (Need to put them on Astro TBI don't forget rebuild kit)
5) 7747 computer w/V8 chip Or new chip from http://www.tbichips.com
6) V8 exhaust manifolds or Headman headers (68600) (use copper gaskets)
7) V8 distributor
8) Wire and connectors to lengthen some wires
9) Nipple for the back of the manifold
10) V8 knock sensor if using TBI
11) Truck valve covers
12) Thermostat housing for V8 (Don't use V6 housing hole too small)
13) Front tranny seal (better do it now while its easy to get too)
14) Transgo shift kit
The following has been recommended by several members
(You don't need but are strongly recommended)
1) intake w/ all acc. connected from an 87-92 van or truck 305 or 350 will make connecting everything easy to connect rather than trying to make the V6 stuff fit.
2) Tranny cooler
3) Oil cooler
4) Flowkooler disc in waterpump vanes
5) 3 flu radiator out of an 89 Astro (heavy duty)
6) Taurus electric fan
7) vette servo
hope this helps you all!!! :banana: :layrubber:
1 - 7 of 69 Posts
I lived in calif before and hung out with hot rodders. It all about money, pay the referee enough and anything will pass. Roots blowers do not pass anywhere there and you see them tooling around.
General rules are. Same year or newer engine. It must pass which ever is newer smog requirements.
Now there are a million things you can do to cheat and get more power.
They check the external components part numbers and year. Exhaust etc.
Common practice is to simply completely redesign the internal parts. It isn't legal but unless somebody blows the whistle on you they will never make you take it apart to check.
A smooth idling cam is essential to the smoke and mirrors show. Porting, compression and bore and stroking will go un-noticed. Go tune it one way to pass at a dyno. Then put in the power settings the rest of the year. Just save your emissions settings and run the right gas when you test.
It is easier to sell crack in California than to pass a smog test, with a engine swap. They are a pain. But it can be done.
Good luck and have your wallet ready.
General rules are. Same year or newer engine. It must pass which ever is newer smog requirements.
Now there are a million things you can do to cheat and get more power.
They check the external components part numbers and year. Exhaust etc.
Common practice is to simply completely redesign the internal parts. It isn't legal but unless somebody blows the whistle on you they will never make you take it apart to check.
A smooth idling cam is essential to the smoke and mirrors show. Porting, compression and bore and stroking will go un-noticed. Go tune it one way to pass at a dyno. Then put in the power settings the rest of the year. Just save your emissions settings and run the right gas when you test.
It is easier to sell crack in California than to pass a smog test, with a engine swap. They are a pain. But it can be done.
Good luck and have your wallet ready.
If it is a California engine with Calif smog equipment. You should be good.
How much you pay depends on the referee you get. It was 200 bucks a pop starting out. 20 years ago. You had 3 rounds at least to go through if it wouldn't pass by then you just paid your fine and they gave you a pass.
It been a while since I been out there. That is what is going on. I would ask the locals for the updated version.
How much you pay depends on the referee you get. It was 200 bucks a pop starting out. 20 years ago. You had 3 rounds at least to go through if it wouldn't pass by then you just paid your fine and they gave you a pass.
It been a while since I been out there. That is what is going on. I would ask the locals for the updated version.
Now that you expecting the worst. Will luck yours will go smoothly. Getting the swap verified I mean. It can be a nightmare. Even a smooth swap smog is aggravating. Now your ready for it. Just keep pushing and jumping their hoops with a smile. You will get there.
Good luck
Randy.
Good luck
Randy.
Get a 63 I love those. I had 2 at one time. I ain't biased or anything.aztec1987 said:Right now I am also looking for a 63-65 Impala SS for another project car to start on as well.
Here a 62 Impala at my local gas station. Notice how everybody around here likes them cams that wont pass smog or idle very long? Freedom is a great thing. Being a hillbilly has its perks.
I paid a fortune for that raggety 68 chevelle I got. Nice old cars are literally a fortune in running shape even if they are junk.
Mine ran when I got it. I flogged and beat its original 307. I was a wheel spin monster.Skinny ply tires smoke easy. No balls but it had torque.redfury said:Which is why there are so many people fixing up the station wagon versions of those cars...though even the SW's are getting up there in price.chevymaher said:I paid a fortune for that raggety 68 chevelle I got. Nice old cars are literally a fortune in running shape even if they are junk.
Man I miss my old 65 Fury....
I had the dash redone looking like new. Primer SS hood correct color and striping when I got it :bouncy: . Looked decent from where I sat. I drove its raggety azz around every once in a while in town. While the true SS was restored and sold.
Then I took it apart to restore it. NEVER TO BE DRIVEN AGAIN.
These cars are a money pit. You have to really love them to go through all the time and money required to restore them correctly. Thing gonna end up costing as much as my house for petes sake. All that just to tool along in my golden years in my high school car on the weekends.
1 - 7 of 69 Posts
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