Chevy Astro and GMC Safari Forum banner

Van starts without key, will not power down.

470 Views 17 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  bryancraftyhands
Not sure if this is the right sub-forum, but here we go.

Went to turn the van off recently and my key was stuck in the ignition. After some jiggling I got it out without too much force, But the van stayed powered up as if it was still inserted.
I can turn the van on and run it as if they key was still there.

So I pulled the negative cable and went and got a replacement lock cylinder and…. same thing.
About this time I noticed my steering wheel wasn't locking aswell. I just had some work done that involved pulling the steering column.

What do ya’ll think? Bad ignition switch? Poorly adjusted shifter cable? something else?
1 - 7 of 18 Posts
What you are saying is, you had the key in the off position, yet the engine was still running and the key didn't want to come out? Just to clarify.
I've had a few GMs that I could take the key out while still in the run position. I think the only reason I used a key to start it was I needed something to turn the tumbler with.
If the original cylinder and tumbler was worn, I could see causing this.
When you did the replacement, I am guessing you made sure the assembly was seated in the switch correctly. (I'm not sure it can be seated incorrectly, be reassembled and anything work, but I never replaced mine.) If you are certain of seating, then I would think the switch itself that the cylinder manipulates could be done for as well.
I don't see why it could not be a possibility, at least on the lock, but I really do not know for sure. I really don't think the cable has any effect on the steering lock though. I think that is something more directly related to the column. I could be wrong.
I don't see the cable having any effect on the power switching. I think that is more in the relation of the switch and the cylinder, or just the switch itself.
Maybe in some time, someone else with more knowledge in these things will pop in.
Hopefully and possibly.
I believe that I've had vehicles that you didn't have to have the brakes activated to move out of park. I can't say for sure because it's one of those things you don't really notice at the time.
There's got to be a reason I keep trying to put one of my other rides in drive without hitting the brake though. I'm pretty sure that reason is habit.
GM's, for many years, the park lock on the shifter is defeated if you only turn key to first position, as there is no power to the interlock device. key positions-
acc--lock and key removal--unlock--vehicle on--crank
Glad it wasn't just my imagination. As my last two trucks were an S--15 and Sonoma. (which I just recently learned at least the Sonoma had hydroboost. I just learned of it's existence) When I got an Outback, it threw me off that I had to put my foot on the brake to get it out of park.
I also think that what you mention about when the vehicle is not running applies. Thinking back on when I experienced this, it was when I had to first off turn the key in the on position to change out of park, AND had to put my foot on the brake even though it wasn't running. Just to move my shifter out of the way to ... I think I was changing my radio.
Sorry that this is a bit off topic.
Im not reading the directions for the TV cable, this is for the shift selector cable, that runs from the selector knob down to the arm on the Neutral safety switch.
The problems with the key cylinder dont seem to be able to affect the wheel lock and ability to shift without the brake(which is not normal for this van) Unless I’m mistaken… But seeing as taking the cable off and manually shifting the transmission via the controll lever just fixed all the symptoms maybe I’m not? I dont pretend to be any sort of expert here lol
I wish I had better information to give you on your last two events. I don't really know much about this area you are getting into. It seems to me that if things worked with the cable removed, then the cable would be too tight. I would then think there is some linkage that would allow for adjustment somewhere. It may in fact be missing. I can't confirm or deny this. If you can find a part breakdown to compare with what you see you have? Or if someone that knows better gets back to you before you can find that out.
update incase someone has the same problem
Thanks for this. It's what makes these forums useful.👍(If people bother to search of course)
1 - 7 of 18 Posts