[Herman Wiegman]

Argh.. damn frustrating to have a window that takes it's leisurely time getting back up.
It is cold here in Upstate NY for 6-months out of the year!

I will certainly look at the external circuit breaker idea in place of the in-line, embedded circuit breaker.

Herminator

 

[chevymaher]

I said I was going to do a circuit breaker to platicate the Nay-Sayers.
I had no intention of doing so because it has one in the fuse box already.
I roll my window down everytime I park it in the garage. So I can reach in when it down there.
I got 2 years in feb on my window motor rejuvination. Works like new still and I never had any problem. Even after having that side wiped out last year. I put that motor and track in the new door and it runs like a swiss watch. I thinking the redundant circuit breakers were not needed.

 

[Herman Wiegman]

Got it.. disable or solder over the motor mounted breaker element.... reinstall... operate window...

thanks,
Herminator

 

[BlueSkySafari]

FWIW, I had a weird failure today. Opened up the port side door to fix what I thought was a bad tooth on the regulator or motor (window would raise and lower part way then stop moving and make a loud clicking sound).

On disassembly, I noticed the rivets holding the motor had been removed and replaced with screws (motor had been replaced before)...

The problem was in the motor assembly transmission... not in the regulator at all. I will save this one, since it has a good motor I may be able to use it to rebuild what ever one fails next time.

Posting just to possibly prevent someone else from trying to buy a regulator if they had a similar problem in the future.

I'm experiencing the same symptom. It goes down roughly and jerking to goes up with loud clunking noise. I've also noticed the motor had been replaced with screws instead of rivets. How do I fix the motor assembly transmission in this case?

 

[pjdbm]

I just did this, it was not that bad of a job, worked like a charm.

I used a spring hook to get the motor brushes back into position while inserting motor shaft.

Thanks again for this!

 

[tecromatica]

Just experienced this problem tonight, glad to find the fix... I do HATE messing with window regulators and motors, arrrrggghh!

 

[sandybox28]

this website is awesome! my passengers side window had almost no movement at all, tried this little trick and now it works better than my drivers side window! thanks for this how to

 

[markmitch]

maybe you should start your own home based business and fix them a few bucks cheaper then a new one costs?

 

[electronics guy]

I have a inop motor on the passenger window of my 1986 Astro van. I had decided to replace it with a used one from the pull-a-part. So I grabbed one the last time I was there. I hadn't took the time to change it simply because I was not sure the one I cut out of the junked van was in any better shape than mine. So I saw this string and decide to pull mine apart and check it out first.
The large copper piece is actually a bi-metal that warps slightly with temperature pulling them apart to open the circuit when too hot. If you look at carefully you will see two distinct pieces of metal running the length. The solder bridges the two so the input connection (from the wire harness) is directly connected to the respective brush.
The resistance of the connection between these two strips of metal over time increases when cold. I'm sure if you could clean the connections it would be like new. Perhaps a cleaning solvent would work. But the solder is the way I am going.
There are, as mentioned by Detroit Dave, two holes that are drilled through the end cap that line up with the center of the brushes. A stiff wire installed here would hold the brushes fully retracted while reinstalling the end cap over the stator.
I took the center copper wire from a scrap coax cable from the TV cable company. stripped it back for the stiff wire to hold back the brushes.
It worked perfectly, I didn't need to lift the stator up at all, it slid back together in a couple seconds.After I got it soldered and reassembled I measured the resistance across the wire harness input connectors and it read 1.1 ohms

 

[dennis7815]

I'm not an electrical engineer, but if you opt to bypass the resistor as being recommended here, I think you would be well advised to install a marine circuit breaker somewhere you can reset it if someone presses the window button too long. The circuit breaker should be just a bit more current rated than the normal current as I expect the current to increase and the breaker to blow. A current meter or clamp on current meter is a good tool for anyone to have in their toolbox these days. Many low cost digital voltmeters (DVM) have a built in current meter and the DVM can be bought at most home centers for $20 or more. I would guess that a 5 amp circuit breaker would protect your wires and still allow enough current to operate the motor, but without taking current readings I could be mistaken. The circuit breakers come in 5 or 10 or 15 amp at marine supply stores. Good Luck!

 

[chevymaher]

There is another breaker in the fuse box for it. I did mine over 5 years ago. Nothing caught fire yet. The apocalypse hasn't come to pass. Window just works.

 

[Big_kid]

Thanks for sharing this handy-dandy How To!

I've been inside countless electric motors (these particular units are some of the cheesiest!) - and just wanted to mention that you'll occasionally find a sort of "helper" inside to reinstall the brushes. Sometimes they provide a little hole near the face of the brush holder, towards the commutator end, so you can load the spring & brush and insert a pin or piece of stiff wire to keep it in place for assembly. The clockwork-type springs can usually be wound tighter and pulled outward until they wedge the brush against the side of the carrier, until you're ready to let it slide forward. If you'd rather use a non-violent alternative on brushes which don't offer much help (like these), a couple of cheap twist-ties can save you a lot of grief. Nice fresh ones are found in every box of trash bags... one wrap around each brush carrier does the trick, and they're easy to slide out when everything is going back together. (On this window motor I used a popsicle stick to support the armature just below the commutator, then I removed the ties just before letting it fall into place)
***removed dead image link***

I drilled a small hole in front of the brush, allowing me to insert a piece of stiff wire to hold it back. Once it was assembled I pulled the wire out.

20180604 190114

• Big_kid
• Jun 5, 2018

 

[Detroit_Dave]

(The plastic housing on this particular motor was actually made with "conveniently located" little paths beside the brush holders, right where you would need 'em... to attach - and then to slide out - a couple of twist-ties....)

 

[Ken2.7]

I fixed the passenger window two years ago and had to tackle the drivers side today. I agree with the post above by Big_kid regarding drilling a tiny hole to put in a pin to hold back the brushes.
Two of the plastic push pin inserts that hold on the door panel broke and after visiting two auto parts stores without luck I stopped by the local Chevy dealer and they had them for $2 apiece, same price as the auto parts store if they had them in stock.
All went well except I didn't check to make sure the lock button on the door panel actually engaged the locking mechanism. As a result I buttoned it all up, the window went up and down and I patted my self on the back and closed the door only to find it was locked and I couldn't unlock it with a key or with the interior unlock button. I had to sit in the drivers seat and remove the small panel that surrounds the interior door release lever. It was then that I discovered that the up and down orange/black lever wasn't engaged with the unlock lever. It was an easy fix but I was worried for a bit. Maybe I'm the only one who has done this.

 

[Astrofarian]

……………….. It was then that I discovered that the up and down orange/black lever wasn't engaged with the unlock lever. It was an easy fix but I was worried for a bit. Maybe I'm the only one who has done this.

Uh...no, you're not. There's this guy in Manitoba, Canada who's done it too. :doh:

-M!ke-

 

[81SAFARIMATT]

I am getting ready to do this and i have one question... after drilling the rivets ,does the motor just come out? how is it attached to the rest of the window? It is this one point that i cant seem to find ....thanks...Matt

 

[sixsix]

How far along are you?
Are you planning on pulling the motor with regulator attached?
If not, you need to keep the regulator helper spring from 'UNLOADING' when you drill the rivets out.
And don't forget to punch out that steel center bit thingie. Oh, and don't forget to hold the window up.

Have a look here, where I got those rivets out - mind you it's Gen I, but may still matter:

https://www.astrosafari.com/viewtopic.p ... 5#p1470865

 

[81SAFARIMATT]

door panel is off..exposed the motor....jammed a piece of wood on the right side to hold up window..... i had not planned on removing regulator....could you be more specific how to hold that loaded spring while removing and replacing motor ...and how it is attached to the regulator....thanks...Matt

 

[sixsix]

Well, a jammed piece of wood will be in your way. Try tape to hold the window up.
That post to look at - check for pic #1339 - shows a 1/4-20 screw & nut.
Also pic #1344 down a ways - you can see the nut & screw again and the corner of a small plate I used as a big washer.
Then #1346 a little further down.

Have to come in from back inside, go thru the half moon gear plate of the regulator and the square motor mount reg. plate.
It's hard to see - get the best daylight or LED stuff.

And if your window was as tight as ours - I actually had to PULL IT DOWN with everything removed - your mileage may vary.
Good Luck, let me know if need be.

I am just in the process of "Showing how slow and tedious a person can be Rebuilding a door". Pulling the motor this week too.
Or maybe it will be in June... LOL Doing the same things on the Pass. as the Driver's, except the Outside Handle.

 

[Leeann_93]

I used this guide when I did the motor on my '93 Bravada:

https://www.a1electric.com/s10motor.htm

I didn't drill a hole and use a bolt and nut; I used a c-clamp, iirc.