[AstroWill]

I used this guide when I did the motor on my '93 Bravada:

https://www.a1electric.com/s10motor.htm

I didn't drill a hole and use a bolt and nut; I used a c-clamp, iirc.

Great link Leeann!

 

[sixsix]

I used this guide when I did the motor on my '93 Bravada:

https://www.a1electric.com/s10motor.htm

I didn't drill a hole and use a bolt and nut; I used a c-clamp, iirc.

Great link Leeann!

Well, couple things...
- I believe he only wants to remove the motor from the reg.
- Also did not drill a hole, used an existing hole in both parts ( stationary plate to rotating gear ). Was there on both doors.
One of the photos I referenced has some grinding that was done on the door frame - inline w/ the motor mount rivets.

My son and I changed out the motors years ago ( omg-decades? ) and the grind was done for clearancing the rivet gun nose.
When I put the motor back on this time, I drilled out the (4) holes big enough for 1/4-20 hardware.

1339 Drvr Dr Regulator stabilizer Bolt
Original pic I referenced above.

1346 Drvr Dr Regulator Hole sizes 1-4-20-washer plate
Here's a much better view of the location and what I used. Wondering if someone before us drilled that hole.
I think I used the gray plate so I could just go right thru the big opening in the gear, needing just the front small hole.

Adding to Leeann's post, I think a small c-clamp might work, If you have one. Try to get it as close to center as possible to avoid deformation to the gear.

If the window is up, most of the spring 'windup' is lost anyway, so there is not near the force as if it were down.

 

[81SAFARIMATT]

"If the window is up, most of the spring 'windup' is lost anyway, so there is not near the force as if it were down."

it is this statement that gave me the courage to dive in.... after studying it a bit i decided to go with my 2x4 jammed in method to hold everything still... punching out the rivet centers ended up punching out the whole rivet...easy ..no drilling...everything else went as expected until putting it back together ... those spring brush things...AAAARRRRGGGG ... i struggled with the twist tie method and before drilling i thought i would try something different... i pulled the next piece out of the motor and assembled my trouble piece on the bench and then put them both back as one unit...does that make sense? ... magnets kind of want to grab it back into the hole with some force and ruin your assembly... small screw driver as sort of a lever and let it in slow...easy peasy... at least for me.... passenger motor.... 4.5 hours.... driver side motor .... 17minutes ...thanks for all the great info here...and bonus ... i found all the pieces for window switch inside passenger door... takes away my window power as driver ...but nice to have for sure ....Matt

 

[sixsix]

Yeah, I tried several of the suggested ways of holding those brushes back, ending up drilling the (2) tiny holes.
Soooo glad it all worked out and that HAS to be RECORD time - 17 minutes!!! Call Guinness - LOL.

Did you get any pics? You know what they say around here... Pics or it didn't Happen. Leeann says it's one of our rules...

 

[81SAFARIMATT]

Sorry no pics... they would not have looked much different unless it was of me in "HULK SMASH" mode ..or the shop rag fire caused by the soldering iron....and as far as the record goes I am going to have to add couple minutes as i forgot to remove the 2x4 on the second door ... haha ....Matt

 

[fe2o3]

:ty:
Just wanted to say thank you for this thread. I just repaired the passenger side window motor in my '98. Looks like it might have been replaced before as I didn't have to remove the regulator at all, just 4 rivets to pull the motor.

What I did to get the rotor back into the stator assembly was to run a length of wire from the top through a slot in the armature stack, around the bottom and back out to the top through another slot. By gripping this wire in my hand I was able to get everything lined up and slowly lower it into the stator. Once everything was together the wire just slid right out. I know pics or it didn't happen, but I'm not going to get covered with that marine grease again just to take photographs.

 

[chevymaher]

Well in 8 years the earths axis hasn't changed and the van hasn't caught fire yet. It is time to do the passenger side finally. Door has a rattle and the door panel got to come off anyway. Eliminate this breaker and new door handle time.

 

[AstroWill]

Well in 8 years the earths axis hasn't changed

Technically Scientists ID three causes of Earth's spin axis drift – Climate Change: Vital Signs of the Planet

 

[chevymaher]

Technically Scientists ID three causes of Earth's spin axis drift – Climate Change: Vital Signs of the Planet

Damn and one is a blue van no doubt.

 

[Old Barney]

I have discovered P.C.T fuse. A P T C resettable fuse It is a solid state fuse (no moving parts). Once it is triggered it will stay that way until power is removed by releasing the switch. They are small and available in many current ratings.
Industrial electronics supply carry them. Allied electronics, and Mouser electronics. I think there are others also that supply them.
My first experience with these is inside a multi camera surveillance system power supply. The first batch of power supplies had the old glass fuses. the rest were P.T.C. style and I didn't know they were automatic reset. I replaced the fuse and the problem was still there?? I tested the PCT thing and found it was good. So I moved the camera power to another slot and no power to camera. turn power off and back on and power returned. replaced bad shorted camera and all was ok even with the original PCT breaker. Learning experience with PCT fuses.
Once the short occurs the PCT opens the circuit and stays that way even after the short is removed. once power is removed to the input of the PCT it resets.
In the way past 1950's when power windows were first used there were no safety. kids would stick their head in the open window and another would shut the window get scared and leave the stuck kid thus a damaged kid.
Yeh I'm old!!

 

[AstroWill]

In the way past 1950's when power windows were first used there were no safety. kids would stick their head in the open window and another would shut the window get scared and leave the stuck kid thus a damaged kid.

Nobody wants a damaged kid.

Fuses vs PTCs - Littelfuse

www.littelfuse.com

Now I shall spend the next hour going through the littlefuse website

 

[Debbied]

Well I guess I'm the first to discover this, so I'm going to try my hand at making a 'how to' on it. Here goes.

It's pretty common to see people having issues with their power window motors, but now I know why. There is a resistor built into the motor unit, in series with the motor istelf. This is a temperature dependent resistor, where the temperature is determined by the current flowing through it. As the temperature increases, the resistance increases, allowing less current to flow. The problem is, these seem to get more sensitive as they age, resulting in the quite common "Motor stops working and I have to wait to use it again" issue.

All you have to do is bypass the resistor.

First of all, you'll need to get the motor out of the door. Follow your standard trim panel removal procedure (I use a crowbar) to get the trim off, and use a metal drill bit to drill out the rivets holding the motor in. You'll want to put some duct tape running up one side of the window, over the door frame, and down the other. This will keep the window from falling into the door when you take the motor out.

When you have the motor out, you'll need to crack it open. There are three metal tabs that hold on the plastic end cap, I found that a pair of large channel locks worked quite well for bending these.

Then carefully pry off the end cap. The whole thing will most likely be covered in a very sticky grease (marine grease?) that will give you some trouble in getting the cap off. Be aware that the motors brushes are attached to this cap and are under spring tension, so be patient and take your time if you don't want them to fly in all directions when you finally get it off.

Once you've finally removed it, the underside should look something like this:

That copper bar there with the numbers on it is the culprit. All you gotta do is put a dab of solder where the top bar is exposed to the bottom bar:

And just like that, it's fixed. But now comes the hard part: getting the motor back together. Initially I had tried to stick the stator back into the end cap with the brushes, and then stick all that back into the housing. I quickly found out though that the magnets on this thing are quite strong, and will just yank the stator straight out of the brushes. I did find an easier way though. Start by bending all the rear tabs on the brush mounts all the way out. Initially they should look kinda like this:

And you want them to look like this:

Now, you want to pull the stator out only enough to attach the brushes and end cap. But again you'll find that the magnets just want to yank the stator back down. What I did was I took a couple of flat iron bars (from a scrapped transformer) and stuck them down the sides of the housing, where there are gaps between the magnets. This was enough to hold the stator up, and I was able to remove them without disturbing the endcap.

Now you'll need to put the brushes back in. With the stator still pushed up and the end cap sitting on top, push the brushes through the backs of the brush holders. The brushes have a 45 degree cut on two sides, these sides need to go against the plastic end cap. Now put the springs in, and take a pair of pliers and start squeezing the end tabs together, just enough to put some tension on the spring. Push the spring towards the stator to make sure it is in all the way, and finish bending the end tabs back to their original position.

Remove whatever you used to hold the stator up (being careful not to dislodge the endcap), and push the end cap back down to its original place. Then bend the metal tabs back, and you're done!

It should be noted that this resistor was most likely a safety feature, cutting power to the motor when it was unable to move. This fix is done at your own risk.

Man that's just righteous, however what a pitb, I think I'll oder a new one lol but hey when I did put a new one on the passg.door it still didn't work so sent it back. Now my driver side don't work. Some little b*st**d stold my manual, what's the wiring, where's the ground? Can you help me? Thank you....

 

[Debbied]

Man.... I think I'll just buy a new motor🙃. Bad enough taking the panels off. I mean there's just some things I'll leave to the professional window guy,like you guys. 😁

 

[chevymaher]

Man.... I think I'll just buy a new motor🙃. Bad enough taking the panels off. I mean there's just some things I'll leave to the professional window guy,like you guys. 😁

It is a pain. I did drivers side it still is perfect after all these years. Van never burned down as the nay sayers predicted. The passenger has needed it for about 6 years. But it is such a pain I never did it. New motor or rebuild the old one.