puke.... rust spots....sick of it!

puke.... rust spots....sick of it!

Postby cowboydan [OP] » February 21st 2011, 8:09pm

tips for rust spots. paint is good, but i have a few more puky rust spots. what works and how to? just in time for spring.... not too far off now. only a few more blizzards to go!
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2006 sebring 2.7 touring: DD
1990 f150 super cab 5.8/ 351w dual fuel: dq
1980 buick regal sport coupe???
1976 460/c6 ford e350 21' motorhome project
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Re: puke.... rust spots....sick of it!

Postby a2l1 » February 21st 2011, 9:22pm

You will want to look into acid based rust treatments. Rust mort is good and there are several others. There even some good quality paint that will cover and "stop" rust. be prepared to spend about 15-20+ bucks a quart for those good quality rust treatment paints POR 15 comes to mind.
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Re: puke.... rust spots....sick of it!

Postby cowboydan [OP] » February 22nd 2011, 2:20am

a2l1 wrote:You will want to look into acid based rust treatments. Rust mort is good and there are several others. There even some good quality paint that will cover and "stop" rust. be prepared to spend about 15-20+ bucks a quart for those good quality rust treatment paints POR 15 comes to mind.



got some pics that show the finished product?
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Re: puke.... rust spots....sick of it!

Postby AstroCan » February 22nd 2011, 2:34am

Well I fixed all the rust issues on mine last spring when I bought it. Under the doors, rockers, above the wheatherstripping (sliding door and driver/pass. door). So far only the rust on the rockers came back - most likely from the inside. Can't do much about it but spray some fluid film into the holes now and then.
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Re: puke.... rust spots....sick of it!

Postby cowboydan [OP] » February 22nd 2011, 2:42am

AstroCan wrote:Well I fixed all the rust issues on mine last spring when I bought it. Under the doors, rockers, above the wheatherstripping (sliding door and driver/pass. door). So far only the rust on the rockers came back - most likely from the inside. Can't do much about it but spray some fluid film into the holes now and then.

how did the finish work out, did you use dupont, rust paint, or gm spray can?
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Re: puke.... rust spots....sick of it!

Postby Gary » February 22nd 2011, 3:29am

Dan,

Check out Eastwood's site.
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Re: puke.... rust spots....sick of it!

Postby chevymaher » February 22nd 2011, 3:32am

Cheap easy fix and it last years put fiberglass matt behind hole.Rub resin on outside bondo and paint.
if you do a good job rust sealed wont come back.
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Re: puke.... rust spots....sick of it!

Postby cowboydan [OP] » February 22nd 2011, 4:28am

chevymaher wrote:Cheap easy fix and it last years put fiberglass matt behind hole.Rub resin on outside bondo and paint.
if you do a good job rust sealed wont come back.

the back of the van is in bad shape! i have never worked with fibreglass before. but if i can repair wood veneer, i should be able to manage a bit better than average...lol

i have a 26 gal compressor and lots of clear coat. along with 2 nice guns. i have yet to try them out. it's for the regal, but i'm sure i have enough for 5 cars. all i need is the color. but honestly i'm probly going to stick with spray balm. cause it's only spot repair with the hatch being to worst.
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Re: puke.... rust spots....sick of it!

Postby chevymaher » February 22nd 2011, 4:37am

Masking tape the angel hair cloth from back of hole.Mix resin and use gloves this stuff nasty.Hospital disposable type.Dab on resin on back till it clear only where it touches metal let it harden.Then gently with small brush put on remaining till it clear.Let harden.Then just cut shape you need in angel hair.Put on resin till clear and lay on out side of hole.Let harden then sand bondo.You will be amazed how tough it is.It tricky it stick to everything but what you want it to sometimes.Wish I could show you one time after that you have it down.It is a pain but it cheap and it last forever
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Re: puke.... rust spots....sick of it!

Postby cowboydan [OP] » February 22nd 2011, 5:33am

chevymaher wrote:Masking tape the angel hair cloth from back of hole.Mix resin and use gloves this stuff nasty.Hospital disposable type.Dab on resin on back till it clear only where it touches metal let it harden.Then gently with small brush put on remaining till it clear.Let harden.Then just cut shape you need in angel hair.Put on resin till clear and lay on out side of hole.Let harden then sand bondo.You will be amazed how tough it is.It tricky it stick to everything but what you want it to sometimes.Wish I could show you one time after that you have it down.It is a pain but it cheap and it last forever

you can show me. i'll do the work, and when i post pics... you can pick them to death between gasps for air...lol.
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Re: puke.... rust spots....sick of it!

Postby a2l1 » February 22nd 2011, 6:27am

If you plan on keeping the van for a long time the only sure way to remove the rust is to cut it away until you get to good clean metal then you can replace the missing metal any way you want. Best would be to weld in new panels and treat and prep them but you can always pop rivet them in. Thats not as sturdy but it works and lasts quite well. You can do fiberglass repairs to replace the missing metal as well. The fiberglass may need some re-enforcing depending on location and application but it works well. Dont forget vettes are made from fiberglass and even after twenty years the worst normally is some surface stress cracking/crazing. Those are the ways if you plan on keeping the van. I have seen vehicles where people wedged in some cardboard in the holes behind the rusty openings and just smeared bondo over that then sanded and painted. That normally lasts about six month to a year( if you are lucky) and then you have an even larger rust hole and more garbage to dig out before you can fix it. its all a matter of how long and how much ( how long do you want to keep the vehicle - how much do you want to spend) I have known people that just keep adding bondo its cheaper I agree but it seems like a waste of time to just keep doing it over and over, but it "works" for them.
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Re: puke.... rust spots....sick of it!

Postby chevymaher » February 22nd 2011, 1:00pm

a2l1 wrote:If you plan on keeping the van for a long time the only sure way to remove the rust is to cut it away until you get to good clean metal then you can replace the missing metal any way you want. Best would be to weld in new panels and treat and prep them but you can always pop rivet them in. Thats not as sturdy but it works and lasts quite well. You can do fiberglass repairs to replace the missing metal as well. The fiberglass may need some re-enforcing depending on location and application but it works well. Dont forget vettes are made from fiberglass and even after twenty years the worst normally is some surface stress cracking/crazing. Those are the ways if you plan on keeping the van. I have seen vehicles where people wedged in some cardboard in the holes behind the rusty openings and just smeared bondo over that then sanded and painted. That normally lasts about six month to a year( if you are lucky) and then you have an even larger rust hole and more garbage to dig out before you can fix it. its all a matter of how long and how much ( how long do you want to keep the vehicle - how much do you want to spend) I have known people that just keep adding bondo its cheaper I agree but it seems like a waste of time to just keep doing it over and over, but it "works" for them.

I think your right if it small spots fiberglass good but on larger areas cutting out the rust treating the metal.And make and weld a patch panel best.I always buy the panel which is expensive.As is the rust preventative.and I use epoxy primer.All This cost hundreds of dollars I was just trying to give a cheaper alternative.Making a patch panel cheap.My only concern is rusting behind it if it not sealed and treated.The stuff we use restoring our junk aint cheap.Which brings to mind cowboy how much your willing to spend to do it.The fiberglass works last forever but hard to deal with but it cheap.Restoring metal may or may not be easier depending on the damage and if you ever done it before.AJ got good points it really a judgement call on your decision.On my muscle cars I do all metal because of the drama at shows.Personal vehicle drivers if it not bad I use the glass cheap and never gave me any problems.
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Re: puke.... rust spots....sick of it!

Postby cowboydan [OP] » February 22nd 2011, 1:34pm

a2l1 wrote:If you plan on keeping the van for a long time the only sure way to remove the rust is to cut it away until you get to good clean metal then you can replace the missing metal any way you want. Best would be to weld in new panels and treat and prep them but you can always pop rivet them in. Thats not as sturdy but it works and lasts quite well. You can do fiberglass repairs to replace the missing metal as well. The fiberglass may need some re-enforcing depending on location and application but it works well. Dont forget vettes are made from fiberglass and even after twenty years the worst normally is some surface stress cracking/crazing. Those are the ways if you plan on keeping the van. I have seen vehicles where people wedged in some cardboard in the holes behind the rusty openings and just smeared bondo over that then sanded and painted. That normally lasts about six month to a year( if you are lucky) and then you have an even larger rust hole and more garbage to dig out before you can fix it. its all a matter of how long and how much ( how long do you want to keep the vehicle - how much do you want to spend) I have known people that just keep adding bondo its cheaper I agree but it seems like a waste of time to just keep doing it over and over, but it "works" for them.



i don't have any holes. the vas was taken care of for most of it's life. i doubt that i need patch panels. the previous owner did however etched the rear glass by operating the rear wiper without the rear wiper>.<. and the rear corner was damaged some time ago. so if i find a color matched rear hatch that's in good shape. the glass is 100 bucks at the wrecker, so is the rear hatch with the rear glass..... somthing tells me they want me to but the whole thing rather than just the glass. i want to fix all the rust, but i don't want to see where i fixed. getting rid of rust is only good if it removes the blemish, perminently.
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Re: puke.... rust spots....sick of it!

Postby chevymaher » February 22nd 2011, 1:38pm

If there are no holes you are set.Wire wheel rust down to just pits.Mix and rub fiberglass resin over it then sand and put good primer and paint.Or metal treatment maybe there cheaper stuff than we got but that stuff expensive we use.
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Re: puke.... rust spots....sick of it!

Postby Leeann_93Leeann_93 is online! » February 22nd 2011, 2:47pm

I use the Loctite Extend stuff - but only in a bottle, not a spray can. The spray can's useless. You can get the bottle at ACE Hardware, among other places. Turns the rust to black epoxy primer in 2 coats, 3 if it's bad.
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Re: puke.... rust spots....sick of it!

Postby cowboydan [OP] » February 22nd 2011, 3:18pm

thanks all
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