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Steele Rubber Dutch Door Seal Set, ready to roll.

13K views 84 replies 18 participants last post by  AstroOafAdventurer 
#1 ·
I learned something today. I learned that the gutter can glog at the ends of the OE drip rail, because of the narrow gap. I have body rot at each end, which was hidden under household caulking. I will have to address that another time. Do not ask me how i patched it for now, it's embarrasking. Anyhow, you'll never miss that extra 1/2" each end on the Steele Rubber 52" replacement. So long as your other seals are good, which mine aren't at the moment, this rail will send the water in the right direction for proper drainage.
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That sucker was ON THERE! I drilled off the rivet heads, started prying and yanking, and it finally gave. There's a little hollow behind the rivets so punching them through was easy. It was a war-zone underneath, and cleaning up was definitely the worst part of this job.
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A dry run showed a great fit, and it was very easy to place.
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Following the directions, a thin coat of 3M adhesive on each surface and let it get tacky, worked like a charm. I did have a couple trouble spots, but they were easy to touch up. 2 things worth mentioning...1- I like this big channel a lot more than whatever the (mangled) original once looked like, and 2- it's a very tight fit, and the top edge of the gate wants to push the seal out of position when closing. Some Sil-Glyde solved that easily enough. And, voila! My first repair, finally, thanks to a very nice day here on the Oregon Coast. I have the rest of the Dutch Door Kit, but plenty more rain is on the way. Cya next time.
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I am VERY PLEASED with Steele Rubber Products so far, both the product and the people.
 
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#5 ·
I'm happy to be making a contribution, albeit a small one to start. I like good pics when I'm reading, too. Steele Rubber actually reached out and asked if they could use this info, I said go ahead but be sure to credit the forums..

I'm back to say that, after observing for a couple days, I've decided on a re-do, and will post why and what I'd do differently. I've asked SRP if they're interested in my feedback, I'll likely get an affirmative response.
 
#6 ·
here is one of the issues, and it's me who's guilty of assuming and advising before i knew for sure. the length IS important. see where it drops the water now, and see my yellow line design change.

also, point of contact with the corner of the hatch (and the hinges) is already mis-shaping the channel, and i'm considering taking up to 3/8" off the entire length of the large lip.

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looks like I divulged my secret patchwork. after wire-brushing the rust, I laid down a coat of liquid electrical tape. after it cured I rebuilt the gutter with electrical tape, then sealed the deal with a another coat of liquid rubber. so far, it seems to work. this doesn't fix the rot but i hope it will stop it from getting worse.

I'm starting to realize everyone is correct...if not for body rot, these vans would last forever. I'm not gonna worry much how it looks, I just want a dry headliner and carpet, and I'm already tired of the musty odors. sealing the rear hatch area will be relatively easy, wait until you see what I'm up against with the modified sliding door.
 
#7 ·
This was fairly straightforward. Cleaning up was easy with the 3M adhesive remover. I thought i wouldn't like the spray can, but it was surprisingly controllable.

I'm working my way from the outer to inner, no particular reason, except that the upper liftgate seal is a trim-to-fit and both ends have sagged to different heights. So, by installing the lower door seals first, i'll have a good idea where the ends of the liftgate seal should be.

I did the right door today, and hope to do the left door tomorrow. The SRP part is a pretty close fit. There was one push-in fastener seemed too far out of position, and that made one corner a bit wonky. I deleted it and the fit was much better. I have zero patience for this sort of work, but I think I did a pretty good job of it. Again, I finished the work with Sil-Glyde, and cleaned the body contact points really well. You have to push super hard to get it to latch, and it feels like it's going to work out just fine.
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#10 ·
They're a damn sight better than what I had, and the accuracy is impressive, all things considered. It's no small thing to make parts like this available, I feel lucky there's enough vans left and that there's enough people who love 'em. Capitalism rocks!
 
#11 ·
Still waiting to hear SRP's response to my suggestions. I hope they make the modifications, but if not, worst case I have to buy a longer plain piece, about 54" ideally, and make my own hinge cutouts, angle cut the ends, and take off about half the big lip along the entire length. I'll post pictures explaining why when I'm at my real computer.
 
#13 ·
markmitch said:
to bad there isn't a product to glue two sections of rubber together then you might be able to cut the ends off a decent seal in a junk yard van and glue the ends to your new seal?
they're entirely two different animals, mark. This replacement, however, fits into and onto the nooks and crannies VERY nicely and easily, it just needs a little tweaking still. I don't wanna get ahead of myself just yet...SRP has a great reputation, so I am banking on them treating me right.

To address your comment about bonding, look at the 3-pc liftgate kit and note they recommend Loctite Super Bonder 495 "to make a one-piece gasket."

https://www.steelerubber.com/hatch-wind ... 70-4083-85

When I bought all my stuff, I added their installation kit, which includes the Loctite.
 
#14 ·
alright, here's my reasoning...and it's only opinion based on this my only experience with my only Astro.

The drip rail is exactly that, it's not a seal but a piece of functional trim. it seems it's ONLY purpose is to keep water from dripping into the interior ONLY when the liftgate is open. The liftgate and dutch door seals are what really keeps the water out.

Looking at it from this new perspective, i realize i did it wrong. "less may be more" when using adhesive on seals, but for the drip rail to do it's job, you have to use a full layer of adhesive on the ENTIRE upper surface plus around under the hinge cutouts. otherwise, water finds its way underneath.

with that said, here's why i think the large lip has to be deleted. i think it should only barely make contact when the gate is closed, because right now when the gate is closed, the lip entirely closes (and will eventually permanently distort) the channel, and then water finds it's way over it. also, notice the top edge of the gate curves...the lip blocks any drips from entering the channel. here's pics, judge for yourself if i have this right.
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proposed trim point.
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a final note concerning the (desired) overall length: it's 53" when you measure straight across, but when you account for the curve, it's closer to 54".
 
#16 ·
Left door...as easy as the right one.
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I had to delete the first push-fastener from the bottom end, for a better fit, and then after the seal was in place, drill a new 1/8" hole for the brass tab...you can see the edge of the original hole. Thinking about all the curves, I slathered both seals with Sil-Glyde to help them find their way until they take shape, then i'll wipe off the excess.
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so...do I love it? yes, I LOVE it!

The liftgate seal will be another matter, even with the right parts, installing it is still a trim-to-fit custom job.
 
#18 ·
markmitch said:
where is the last picture of? I do not see them on my parts van? (in case your lost the parts van was a 94 and had dutch doors which I took to later add to my 89.) Can I get a picture of where that last item was ? Thanks, Mark
bottom inner corner of left door. It's the end of the seal. Do you by any chance have a pic of the edging on the top of the Dutch doors? mine is missing, and i want to find something close to original dimensions, it might be critical to getting a good seal along that edge.
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#20 ·
you got me for a second there. the glue is referring to the drip rail topic, correct? i do have an idea about adding to the ends of the drip rail, and it does involve the Loctite, which is for bonding rubber to rubber. when/if that occurs i'll update the thread.

i sunk a few of the push-fasteners too far and created waves, and will (very very carefully) try to pry them back a smidge when things warm up this afternoon.

mark, PM sent. to anyone passing by, is there maybe a pic in your gallery that happens to show the dutch door OE upper-edging?
 
#21 ·
markmitch said:
I will have to look tomorrow and get back to you, You may wish to pm me in the morning cause I am forgetful. By the way When I said glue I was referring to a type of glue to put two pieces of rubber together which would not be the same as glue for rubber to steal.
Mark, try some super glue, as that's what most seal makers use to join 2 ends of a seal together to make a loop seal with.
 
#22 ·
This one requires a lot of sitting and looking at. I put in a couple hard hours doing that.

OE is a 6-pc construction, but likely installed as a single unit. let's look at that.
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The SRP seal is 3-pcs to be bonded into one, but it's only the seal, not the edging.
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The small bead is supposed to be glued into the "track" but there isn't one, it's formed by the edging.
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Like this mockup using an end of the new seal
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EDIT Thurs evening: a lot of what I had posted was inaccurate or too optimistic. I removed it and will post updates tomorrow about what I've learned. Some good, for me, some not so good, for me and other future consumers.

PS these are 3 separate threads right now so we can observe each piece and keep our thoughts straight. Someday the entire kit could be consolidated into a single thread.
 
#23 ·
I tried to install this seal. After trying to glue it on and failing several times I gave up.
There was no track like the directions said. I glued it on the vinyl backing of the old seal off the van with weatherstrip adhesive. Let it cure, then installed the seal
It stayed for a few days but leaked water in the corners which were buckling

Hopefully your having better luck!

I also noticed the hatch was incredibly difficult to open and shut with the seal installed

I have up and installed a junkyard seal and no more leaks.

I did install the lower door seals and the upper drip rail
Those are great!
 
#25 ·
albrow100 said:
I tried to install this seal. After trying to glue it on and failing several times I gave up.
There was no track like the directions said. I glued it on the vinyl backing of the old seal off the van with weatherstrip adhesive. Let it cure, then installed the seal
It stayed for a few days but leaked water in the corners which were buckling

Hopefully your having better luck!

I also noticed the hatch was incredibly difficult to open and shut with the seal installed

I have up and installed a junkyard seal and no more leaks.

I did install the lower door seals and the upper drip rail
Those are great!
the OE seal is bonded to the edging. No glue on the edging, the whole shebang pushes on, so of course over time it's going to sag. I separated everything, squeezed the edging tighter, and put it back on, leaving an even gap/track for the new seal. NO freaking way, the replacement is FAR too stout to go around the upper corners without kinking.

Lucky me, the original upper part of the seal is in decent shape, although the lower ends were toast. Using the SRP replacement ends, which are a pretty darn close fit, I reconstructed. I didn't glue the seal to the edging, but glued it to the metal "track" instead. Yes it latches TIGHT and when I release the lock i have to hit the gate to get it to pop open. I think trimming a little of the "track bulb" will fix that.

I'll grab pictures the moment I open it this morning. We get so much dew it's almost like it rained overnight, so I can tell what's what and whether it sealed or leaked. I have yet to open it and not find water pooling at the corners of the carpet. Fingers crossed for better results today.

Semi-conclusion: with the small radius at the upper corners, the seal will likely have to be molded. While of high quality, the included seal is worthless in this application. The end pieces need trimming but they are priceless considering how mangled my originals were. But, at $94, this needs serious looking at, and i will be forwarding my feedback to SRP, under their "100% Satisfaction Guarantee."

I agree the door seals are the cat's meow, I love 'em. The drip rail, not so much. I've posted updates in both threads.
 
#26 ·
albrow100 said:
Any update on the trimming?
Mine seems ok as in no leaks but it does drip inside when the hatch is open
But mine did before as well. I figured it was normal to have some water dripping in
it's been a week since I sent my feedback to SRP. I may have to invoke their "100% Satisfaction Guarantee" to exchange this one for a longer plain one, and trim it myself.
 
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