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Help with roof rack rivets?

3K views 17 replies 8 participants last post by  albrow100 
#1 ·
Ok so I took off the roof rails on my astro but here's where the problems start... in order for me to take them I had to drill out the top heads of the screws because they were rusted tight and I also stripped 3 of them. After doing that I pulled and yanked and out came the rivets along with it. With one still intact. My question is now how would I put my roof rail back on? Any ideas or solutions? Or am I going to have to fiber glass bondo the holes and never have a roof rack? I REALLY WANT MY ROOF RACK.
 
#6 ·
This is likely going to be a significant project, because the holes are now larger than original.
I installed a factory JY roof rack on my van, which had never had one installed. I was able to buy RivNuts and bolts to match, so I did not try to match the factory thread.
If I was going to do ity again, I would definitely go through the pain of removing the headliners.
I partially missed one of the the roof ribs ( poor measurement I think) , and as a result I have two RivNuts that are in much weaker metal.
I highly suggest paying a couple of dollars and get to a Pick-A-Part, so you can see what the interior of the roof looks like.
As for a 'fix' for the large holes, I think you are going to have to pull the headliner. I would suggest making some 2" or 3" round metal plates ( they do not have to be very heavy duty ( something like the roof material would probably be OK, but bit thicker might be better). Make the hole in the center a good fit for the RivNut and use them on the inside of the roof as a backup 'washer'. Be sure to get plenty of seam sealer, or other fairly pliable sealant, in between the two parts, and under the mount, when you install the RivNuts and the rack You definitely do not want anything to leak at those rack mounts.
Good luck with that project
 
#10 ·
Yes, Astrowill had good advice:
If you are going to use nuts and bolts, then fender washers (very large washers with small holes) are a readily available item...cheap and easy. I buy the stainless steel versions (and the nuts and bolts too) through E-bay or other on-line sources. Buying Stainless hardware eliminates the possibility of rust, and they do not cost much more on-line, than buying the junky regular cad plated hardware at the local hardware store.
I know fender washers come with holes for most small bolt sizes and up to 1-1/2" inch in outer diameter...and maybe larger. You certainly will not need anything larger than 1/4" bolts with fender washers. The factory ones were 5MM IIRC ( they might have been 6MM, which is the equivalent of 1/4") , and they only went into the RivNuts.
Just remember to seal it up well when you are done. I hand cut soft rubber gaskets to fit under the roof rack bases, and put sealer on both sides, before screwing it all down tight. I don't think I have any leaks...yet.
Rod
But... the catch is that you will have to pull down the headliner to do nuts and bolts, and it will most likely require a second person, either inside or up top.
 
#14 ·
Like was just said....use bolts; then with the fender washers, ( and lock washers) and nuts, on the inside, up against the roof. IIRC, it is only rated for a couple of hundred ( evenly distributed) pounds.
If done properly, it will not likely go anywhere unless you overload it, and then try brake testing.
If you need a more sturdy rack, then I would look for a commercial contractor's rack, or have a custom expedition rack built.
DO NOT FORGET TO USE PLENTY OF SEALER!!

Rod J
 
#15 ·
Ok i wouldn't be putting too much weight on top. I just really like the look and option of having it. I only removed it so I could sand and raptor liner it. Now I have this headache. I was also thinking of fiberglass bondo the holes and buy some new roof racks rails on eBay drill fresh new holes but they all seem very tall.
 
#18 ·
When I installed my custom roof rack I removed the existing rivnuts and bolted something similar to this in place

https://www.etrailer.com/Roof-Rack/Rhin ... RTC16.html

If you go up in size you may have a hard time bolting the factory rack back on
In my experience with factory rivnuts have a fairly large outer diameter and a small inner diameter compared to any aftermarket rivnuts I could find

I think you'd at least have to go m8 or m10 size to fill the hole.
The holes on my roof were punched with a hexagonal hole which would need to be drilled larger
 
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