2000 Astro Camperized Battle Van

[Lumpy]

Catching up on some of the older posts ...

Looks like you got it figured out, but I saw your concern about the front leaf hanger bolts and the fuel tank access problem. You've likely figured it out - Drop the tank, remove the bolts, then re-insert the bolts from the OUTBOARD side. Then removing them in the future won't require the fuel tank drop.


Aligning the rear wheels ...

Find a spot near the front of the van that's either dead center, or two spots that are at the same plane. Rear edge of the front subframe, for example. The farther forward that point is the better theoretical accuracy. Measure either straight and/or diagonally from some point on the R and L rear axle to that(those) front point(s). Like pick a brake bolt or some other point on the rear axle that has a matching point on both R and L sides. Measure from that brake bolt to the front measuring point you've chosen. Loosen the U bolts and all that on the rear and adjust the appropriate side of the rear axle forward or rearward till the two measurements are equivalent. You're essentially squaring up the axle to the longline of the van. Axle ends will move enough to adjust. Maybe need 1/8 inch at most, if any.


Lump

[chevymaher]

Lumpy has it on the measuring.

Use the bolt the backing plate bolts on with on the rear end. This is going to be where the wheel actually is. For comparison purposes it is going to get them the same place.

And the rear body mount bolt center. Body mounts holes were checked for tolerance and should be almost dead on for measurement. There was a diagram floating around here for that, and these bolts are what the measurements are all off of.

Measurement is made diagonally. That is more exact and how frame places do it. Or when your building a race car chassis with roll bars.

[YakClimber78]

Pictures speak louder then words

Just drilled a 5/8th hole right here

Did you notice that your driveline vibration lessened when you repositioned your springs? I have a touch of vibration and I'm looking for a solution.
thanks,
Yak

[TurnNburn]

Thanks for the suggestions guys! I really appreciate it. But since i have access to an alignment machine at work i just fallowed WoodButchers advice. While doing my alignment, I used a ratchet strap on the side that needed adjustment and applied a little tension, then with everything tight i loosened up my u-bolts and it shifted about a 1/16th of an inch and brought it back into spec. Tightened everything down and proceeded with my alignment. Everything is good now.

Birdman: Thank you, it was really a no brainer when it came to look for an awning. The cheapest awning i came across when looking was from ARB at 170ish... but it was only 4x4 feet! That just wasn't going to cut it... A: Because i am a cheap SOB when it comes to comfort things and B: They don't even make an awning as big as i wanted. I was able to buy and make our setup for around 40-50 bucks when it was all said and done and is 9x16 feet.

Lump: I was able to drill those holes into the front spring hanger without dropping the hangers themselves, but just barely! I only had one drill bit that was long enough to go from the outside and do both layers at once. Luckily it was close to the right size. Measured 3 times drilled once!

Yak: I did notice a decrease in vibration. If you re drill this hole and put your bolt here it corresponds to the top bolt hole in the multi holed lift shackles. So by lifting the front and the rear the same amount the drive angle is maintained and thus, no vibration. BUT... by doing this you are moving the front of the spring down, but also backwards... which pushes your tires backwards in the wheel well, not much, maybe a half an inch. I drove it like this for a bit and it didn't affect drivability, but looked goofy to me. To fight this you need to go down another bolt hole in your shackle... but then you are just undoing what you did this in the first place. Personally, since i was going to be on the bottom bolt hole anyways, this was just trying to help the drive angles, not fix my problem all together.

[WimpTech]

I believe there was mention of a new full frontal photo??

[TurnNburn]

Yes I did say that I would post a new picture from the front today. It was sleeting sideways this morning and just wasn't feeling it. It is going to have to wait until this evening. Hopefully I can get home before it gets to dark.

[RonRod]

Dude! This is looking killer- that van is looking mean!

[WoodButcher]

Yes I did say that I would post a new picture from the front today. It was sleeting sideways this morning and just wasn't feeling it. It is going to have to wait until this evening. Hopefully I can get home before it gets to dark.

Yeah, right...

pics or it didn't happen,,,

Glad you got the rear squared away

[TurnNburn]

Sorry about the poor lighting. Tis the season... the snow just keeps on trucking. The high forecasted for tomorrow is in the single digits and a low of -14. I know that isn't Minnesota cold, but for around here it will get the job done. It is hard to tell but the gap between the top off the bumper and the bottom of the grill is about 3 inches.

[WimpTech]

Outstanding! I admit the wings are growing on me. Thx for the pic, great work!

[TurnNburn]

I don't even know where to get them after market. I spent a long time looking for them and found nothing. I assume that is a post factory dealership addition cause most Rubicon's don't have wings like this. But most of the after market bumpers for the JK have the wings, so now I know when I do a proper front bumper it will look and fit well.

[1lowcab]

It really fits the look of the van. Your right tho, that gap is perfect for an led lightbar.

[Corsemoto]

Nice work TurnNburn!

It really fits the look of the van. Your right tho, that gap is perfect for an led lightbar.

The bumper does have a better fit/look with the 3" body lift and was thinking a row of lights would fill that gap nicely too. LED lightbar is a great idea.

[TurnNburn]

Yeah I was thinking of something like this would be pretty awesome if the curve matched the shape of the grill! And super cheap. But I think I will hold off on getting a light bar until I figure out my front bumper situation in case it wont fit the new setup.

https://www.amazon.com/Eyourlife-Curved ... B00PRVVZ5G

[WimpTech]

If not, you could always mount it to the safari rack....

[sixsix]

Very Nice , Turn , looks great AND like was mentioned - perfect for the Hi-Perf Lightbar.
And it has a Kinda' "Durango" look , but tougher , of course.



Mike

[TurnNburn]

So with snowpocalypse coming to an end I have had some time to work on the van again. It hasn't been above freezing here in over a month, and in 2 months we got 54 inches of snow, breaking several records in the process. With the below freezing temps my LIM gaskets decided to give up the ghost and my engine developed a water retention problem. So day one was dedicated to doing that. I replaced every gasket that came in the metal core felpro kit except a single o-ring that measured about 1 inch across. In all of my tearing apart and reassembly I never saw a o ring that looked like that. That stuff is normal maintenance stuff and boring for pictures, not to mention covered many times on here before. I will however repost this, as this was very helpful... http://www.handymanlyness.com/archives/ ... Jimmy.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Then on day 2 the time had come to finally get my house batteries(that I bought in august like an idiot) mounted up into the van.

I know this is nothing compared to the Midwest but for around here this is crazy. This is what 34 inches of snow in 3 days looks like hanging out on my deck


I bought 2 of these to mount my 2 6v batteries (pictured earlier in this thread)
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf- ... AsWL8P8HAQ" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Well since the astro doesn't have a frame, per se, to mount these to I made my own structural support frame and welded it all together and then bolted in for easy R&R to service the batteries and fiddle with the wires and such. Once again, its tied into my hitch. So I made a template out of a left over piece of 2x4(doesn't actually measure 2x4 but it seems like people still call them that) and some slats from a pallet and "mounted" up into place. Once the dimensions were dialed in, time to bring out the welder and start melting metal.

Rough template


Hanging for paint

[Lumpy]

I'm likin' that battery mount fab.

The jack that you've got under the 2x4. What is that? Transmission jack?


Lump

[WimpTech]

Ooooo hot DAMN I like it! Whatcha gonna do with all that other free space under there? I'm thinking on-board water and maybe even air. I wonder if you could pressurize the water and not need a pump for it... hmmmm....

[sixsix]

Wow - Turn - Excellent Fab and nice seeing the mock up.
Kinda' reminds me of someone else's "undersides".

CC has done some head turning stuff under his.
And now we have new "Undies" to ogle.



Mike