2001 RWD Safari Van

[Ironsides]

Absolutely common place on that radiator to crack. Happened on my '93 Bravada, happened on my '00 van, happened on my '99 van, happened on my '02 van....

Okay, that's good to know, thanks.
Took it apart today and was not happy to see the same number as the one I ordered last night CU1786, felt cheap and ignorant, so I feel a bit better now. I read Scott's radiator upgrades and just couldn't see me doing that. Full metal tanks, much bigger core is badass. I searched all over the internet and could not find any evidence the 1" TYC core was any better and would rather have a radiator fail as it is than hoses blow out, etcetera. I broke from ACDelco and got Spectre :/ saved $60. Have a lot of decisions and work to do between the remaining LJY parts, transmission, whatever I find needing repair in engine. I busted my phone recently and could not see the video it was supposed to be recording the other day while driving without the engine cover, but I can hear the distributor, I'm sure it's louder than last time I drove open, even sounding crunchy and gritty. The shaking is worse when in gear at stop light, may be transmission, but it just gets worse when a/c is running, worse still with fan on high, rear fan and stereo blasting. Sits and idles fine until I start running accessories and put it in gear. To add once it gets going everything is fine

I pulled the front off...

Then engine to the water pump...

It feels well, tiniest bit of wiggle, half of a millimeter. I'm 99% certain the oil is coming from the timing cover. I think I confirmed that years ago, read here on A/S about not pulling the oil pan, done by previous owner. Worth the $40 to get a new water pump, time to fix that, replace the timing cover. I'm considering the timing set. I was considering the crankshaft bearings while in there.
I have decision issues, have 'ain't broke don't fix' issues also.
Someone said few years ago when I replaced the engine mounts I should've used poly or better rubber, they were right, they're squished and have stress tears.
There is leakage from power steering gear or cooler lines I guess. I've never put but a little bit in the reservoir over the 5 years. The second guess is the fan is blowing the timing cover oil leak all over the place. I don't know. Time to clean and monitor after known repairs. I do lose a quart of oil every 3000 miles, even the full synthetic since it's been in there 6000 miles topped it off 2 quarts, like clockwork.
Parts don't start arriving until Sunday.

[Mmusicman]

There is leakage from power steering gear or cooler lines I guess...

Check for dripping directly from under the hydroboost unit.
It drips all the way down over everything.. then blows everywhere!
I recently replaced mine and fixed a drip I've had for years.

[Ironsides]

Check for dripping directly from under the hydroboost unit.

Good idea, will add it to my checklist.

Recently used the Rustoleum Headlight Restoration Kit on rear lights ($15). Hard to see difference without before pics, but they're shiny and clear now.

Has 2x p800, 2x p1500 and foam p2000 velcro pads, a polishing pad and compound with UV protection.
Kit will last for several lights. Cleaned up my daughter's 2007 Corolla lights. Decided to clean my turns/corner lenses today.
Before:

During:

After:

Directions are easy, much better than the sanding and clear coating method and far exceeds results from my previous use of Rain-X Extreme Clean for Plastics. Just use a hand drill and water sprayer. Keep surface wet and rinse occasionally. Use the p800 to remove yellow oxidation, the resulting slurry you rinse away is the most telling, then white slurry appears while smoothing the surface out until lens looks clear yet a bit foggy, then use the p1500 until it's mostly clear and newer looking, then move to the p2000, it's a foam backed pad, that for me degraded fairly quickly after doing the taillights and Corolla lights, so I moved right to the polishing pad and compound. Directions say to not wet it, but not to let it dry out. I still mist and keep polishing until a prism effect appears on the surface, that's when I know I can stop. I rinse and wipe dry with microfiber cloth, it is now protected and water beads on the surface.
I did have a lot of complaint and frustration cleaning the dirt around the lens edges, before polishing, but I got through with a toothbrush, couple paintbrushes, touch of bleach, then after polishing I used a feeler gauge and finally compressed air. I was considering drilling a hole to access the inaccessible but the compressed air did the trick, just took patience until it was acceptable. No more "eyeliner" appearance. Now the turn and corner lenses are so nice I have to polish the headlights

[tonydobbs]

Looking good! It's amazing how much more light output you will get from this!

[sixsix]

Nice clean look - Thanks for the pics n' writeup !!

[Ironsides]

Looking good! It's amazing how much more light output you will get from this!

Thanks, yes more light.

Nice clean look - Thanks for the pics n' writeup !!

Thanks, you're welcome. I am tackling that bumper now, no more secrecy soon, it's not "BatVan" black but i'll finally be on here. I don't want to post photochopped pics here, just actual build stuff.

[Ironsides]

I finally got around to it... My 1500 C/K bumper install.

I uploaded a photochopped image recently and deleted it because fake don't go on this thread. I've been playing with an image for a couple years on MS_Paint 3D (I don't like to use, I miss paint.net (installed on laptop only days ago)) anyway I used MS_Paint to help choose aluminum rims, Michelin LTX tires, 1500 bumper, Lund visor, unknown brand aluminum running boards and Luverne grille guard. Earlier in this thread I was playing in the junk yard pulling various bumpers and other parts to see how they fit and looked. I liked the 1500 C/K chrome bumper because it followed the body lines and was small without the mud guard (valance) trim to give it a mean, clean and high set appearance. And it's been years since...
No further ado I share my work.
Cut the 1500 bumper brackets, got my cheapo MIG welder out, clamps and got to work.

Viola, my work, please note; this is a work in progress, I aim to cut, drill and bolt this because it is very rigid and difficult to adjust and I feel it needs to get tucked in an inch or two.

Driver side. Just attaching to the frame end pretty much sets the perfect height using the 1500 brackets.

Don't look for details, it's ugly, there's a 10.9 bolt, some welds, maybe a hot dipped galvanized beveled washer covered in gloss black...

I was in the middle of a radiator replacement when this happened. I determined my oil leak is only coming from the timing cover and I finally gave up the idea of making a 2" gap filler for the radiator shroud and just gave it the 2" cut as recommended all over this site. The gap filler would've required another shroud, cutting only an inch at the flanges, riveting, screwing and would've made an oval shaped shroud... nevermind -CUT

I destroyed the bumper cover, more so since this pic. There's a strip about 7" on each end tapers to about a couple inches and only a 3" strip in the center I used to bolt with the mud guard (valance) trim to keep from flapping going down the highway.

It looks okay, didn't fill the gap as well as I hoped, I'm thinking on getting the 1500 fill trim and splicing it with this one... I have no idea how, maybe rivets. Bondo, maybe learn to weld plastic, no idea.

First public drive/pic, looks good to me. The lens makes the bumper appear to be on a bad downward slant, it's only a little bit.

Looks better at this angle. I really like it.

Yeah, I'm really liking it now. Had to drill, torch and press the brackets into shape, buy some hardware and finish the trim last night after evening rain soaked. It was worth it.

The Gen 1 chrome bumper sticks out a gnarly 7", so I had no problem running the front that far out until the grille guard was installed, just makes the van look really long.

Plastic, wheel well curve, mating of two parts not designed to jive, I've got some work here to do. It's an ugly union no doubt and a real pita forcing the cover plastic to conform to be bolted with the lower bumper and trim. I could've use my heat gun... I didn't and my fingers are sore today, helluva workout, not suggested.

The grille gap to guard is huge about 6" so now that I've done the job and know what I've got to do to improve it, I will plan accordingly and hopefully not take over two years to get a round to it.

As known for some time the body line is right there.

I just like it, as said a WIP and I'm glad I finally did it.

Thanks!

[augidog]

your van is the epitome of "one of a kind." you could make up a fictional RPO code..."it's a rare trim package"...no one would even notice the warts if you didn't point them out, in my eyes your custom look is beautiful! the real running boards, compared to the fiberglass fake ones I took off of my van, look fantastic, too.

[Ironsides]

Thank you Augie.
The aluminum running boards and Lund visor live in the garage, they'll follow the trans rebuild.

[Ironsides]

Crawling around the other day I found the rubber motor mounts worn out, metal riding metal.
No oil or anything, just fatigued. They're only 5yrs old.

I looked up the suggested Energy Suspension poly mount insert https://energysuspension.com/motor-and-transmission-mounts/motor-mount-inserts/energy-suspension-3-1145r-motor-mount/energy-suspension

Don't know if this is a misinformation on Energy Suspension showing 1985-2000 only.
I think I'll have a customer service/tech chat on Monday, it makes no sense.

[MechBob]

That is proper.You have to use the metal from the old mounts.

[Ironsides]

That is proper.You have to use the metal from the old mounts.

Thanks Bob I kept my originals. I'm still looking all over the internet for options.

[Ironsides]

After much looking around I learned what it is about these engine mounts, if I'm correct, the original style like the AWD style pictured below and found in many vans going back to 1985; GM 15141593 discontinued as explained here: http://oemcats.com/oem-parts/15141593.html
By 2001 they changed the style to GM 22188284 or similar these numbers seen here: https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/auto-parts/2001/gmc/safari/sle-trim/4-3l-v6-gas-engine/engine-cat/mounts-scat
I did message Energy Suspension about the 3.1145G(R-red) poly bushing replacement to ask but thought I could answer it myself if I looked. I'm sure there are holes and missing numbers and information, but my point is there is a reason the parts cut off at 2000 for use and as you can see earlier in this thread in the box are my worn out OEM engine mounts. So I explain in the image below what they look like and which ones I suspect fit together.

Even compared to my original mounts the newer GM seem to be even more stylized and pressed together, maybe it's just the images I found, maybe not.
As for comparing the POS DEA MARMON, I chose these 5 years ago as they looked like mine, were for RWD, (the other style, all looked similar and two out of three said they were for AWD) they are garbage, lasted less than 5 years, maybe a year before the shaking started, it's pretty bad now. The OEM lasted 14 years, looked like worn out slippers but were in better shape than these "new" ones.

So after all this consideration and having two RED candy in my amazon cart until one disappeared and the other went from $39 to over $50 and the range for them being $50-70/each. The cheap ones are all over the board $4-25/each, I really think I'll make the stretch again for ACDelco and feel good knowing they'll likely last for some time and I'll forget they're there. Shoot maybe even put the old ones back in while I think it over.

[Ironsides]

Installed the visor yesterday.

Ordered fasteners on Amazon, easy search 'Lund visor screws', quick delivery, the original ones were ugly, picked up rubber washers, found some stainless fender washers in my garage, painted them and caps, ready to install.

Painted underside of visor to avoid any glare, placed screws and washers to keep visor in place and easy to install.

Took it to the pond again for pics. It's straight and follows the roof line very nicely.
I love how it works! Really blocks the overhead sun, doesn't block traffic signals and it's rock solid on the highway, makes no whistle or howl... it does however have those recesses and drain holes that drop water on the windshield unexpectedly at times until it's dried off, no more a nuisance than the first couple stops in the morning as the roof sheds water and flows down the windshield. All in all I love it's function, just need to get used to the look.

On to the transmission rebuild or aluminum running boards next. Waiting on new engine mounts, purchased the Anchor 2436 for AWD vans fully expecting them to wear out too soon, then I'll have proper clamshells for the poly bushings. Cheers!

[Ironsides]

Pulling the trans out, first have to address the mounts, can't leave the engine supported as it were on bad mounts.
I am doing this under my covered patio in the backyard, space is tight, the going is slow.
First, I discovered the speed sensor wires were really tight and had rubbed through the jacket.

I'll fix that later, it's caused by the body lift.
Next I discovered the transmission mount had broken. I have no idea how, could be a few reasons, didn't torque bolt, sad engine mounts, too much hard driving, banging transmission, spirited off-roading, donuts, sabotage gremlins... idk

trans_mount_1.jpg (92.21 KiB) Viewed 673 times

trans_mount_2.jpg (97.25 KiB) Viewed 673 times

The driver and passenger mounts are in bad shape, known couple weeks ago.

driver_mount.jpg (82.86 KiB) Viewed 673 times

pass_mount.jpg (95.66 KiB) Viewed 673 times

I replaced the easy one on driver side, it was difficult with the engine and trans loose as it were. I really forgot how difficult the passenger side was until I was under it again. Saved by the rain I only removed the exhaust, driveshaft and replaced the one mount today, very slow going.
Happy Friday everyone

[Ironsides]

I found my box of old mounts, looked at them all for a while..
I really don't like the Anchor 2436 and I see there are extra tabs on the rubber insert, had a little trouble pushing it in, hadn't torqued the bolts and will now remove it. I explained earlier I was going this route in order to get the poly inserts in the future, but that is just ridiculous. Glad I didn't throw these away or recycle yet, in this case I need to just get rid of them.

This particular job was difficult the first time I did it, besides I learned something; "prothane" mounts by Prothane Suspension Parts https://www.prothanesuspensionparts.com/7521 it's actually the same company as the Energy Suspension Parts https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/3.1145 that make/supplies the AWD poly mount inserts
It appears they've got a transmission mount as well https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/3.1171 comes in red or black, I'll probably get red. It's not my fault there is confusion; too much internet talk of unicorns, news from rumors and children, manufacturers splitting their product among different websites, distributors unable to cross reference and search engines that return everything but what I'm actually looking for.
I have no problem admitting a mistake, even revised my image of the parts rumored and made it into an easy to identify visual to assist anybody searching for the same thing in the future and I dearly wish not to misinform anyone, especially not when messing with these engine mounts. I already replaced them once. Don't want to do it three times... smh
Anyway here is my revised image:

I will now contact Prothane/Energy, confirm parts and obtain both RWD poly engine mount inserts and transmission mount if it's correct/available I'm done discussing it, I'll just post the pics when I'm all done pulling/rebuilding/installing trans, engine seals, covers, etcetera.

[M_a_t_t]

Are you saying the poly motor mount inserts on the left are for awd? Those are the ones I put in my RWD. They appeared to match the (I'm assuming) oem rubber mounts that I removed.

[Ironsides]

Yes Matt, those are the ones. Left is AWD 3.1145 and Right is RWD 7521, the matching RWD transmission mount is 3.1171 I hope that helps.
I also hacked their cart to prove it's the same company...

Energy Suspension is the manufacturer. I went to the first link at Prothane Suspension Parts, placed the red mount inserts in the cart, then opened a new tab for the third link Energy Suspension Parts and put the red transmission mount in the cart, refreshed page and they were all in the same cart. Does not qualify for free shipping, I'm $0.17 short... figures.

[Ironsides]

"Prothane" Energy Suspension engine mount bushing update.
7521 engine mounts
3.1171 transmission mount
191403 jackpad
Order total: $105.40
Easy ordering, easy checkout, quick ship, fast delivery, good experience.
Drilled rivets per included instructions 13/32"
70grit aluminum oxide blast
Wire wheel and brush finish
De-greaser and Xylene clean-up
High temp flat black paint
Easy assembly in clamp torqued to 16ftlb
These feel very solid, fit snug and were easy peasy to make.
Took only a couple hours excepting the paint dry time.
Highly recommend to anyone needing to replace engine mounts.
Only complaint may be the slight rocking, the in-board facing bolt head extends 1/8" from mounting surface.
Tightening the mount to frame at 44ftlbs will probably re contour the tabs, we'll see when I install these.

I do intent to make or purchase heat shielding per suggestion, I used the high temp barbecue enamel for it's strength, ease and quick drying time.
Take care -Dave.

[dcsleeper]

- is your van awd?
- did you order awd or rwd?
- they are pretty but I'm not sure what you have taught us?