WinnieVanII -- 2004 Astro AWD Build

[scorean]

Hey man, that door looks like it came off something.. did you fab it from scratch or pull it off another box? Also, specs / dimensions on the box?

[WinnieVan]

Hey man, that door looks like it came off something.. did you fab it from scratch or pull it off another box? Also, specs / dimensions on the box?

Sam — I actually spent some time at a sheet metal shop when I did this whole job.

The guy was incredibly talented and did all the work on a brake and slip roll.

I don’t remember the exact dimensions, but it’s large enough to store a come-along, two big *** tow straps, a small air compressor and a couple little bottles of propane.

There’s lots of extra room too!

I think look back about 5-6 pages and I should have lots of pictures about the process. Check out Uwharrie’s thread too.

[WinnieVan]

Just for posterity -- Big3 upgrade here:
https://www.astrosafari.com/viewtopic.p ... 0#p1518288

[WinnieVan]

And another update just so I can log it....

- pulled apart my abs module and re-soldered — no more intermittent abs and brake light.

Too embarrassed to take pictures. My soldering skills are weak!

[SportsBoy]

I'm going with a 50A Self-resetting circuit breaker in lieu of a fuse between the battery and volvo fan relay.

I went with this thermo switch:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0796 ... UTF8&psc=1

and this inline adapter for the upper radiator hose...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018F ... UTF8&psc=1

Is this the kind of resetting circuit breaker you got? https://www.amazon.com/Tocas-Cover-Manu ... pons&psc=1

Do you have an updated link for that thermo switch by any chance?

[tinworm]

Another benefit to the rock slider mod you did from uharries build is you both just Massively reinforced the van right where they fail in the frontal offset crash test. Its not often such a modification that has a 100% cool factor also has a huge safety improvment factor as well.

Id be fascinated to see a modified van go through this same test

https://youtu.be/8kuSghb7P7U

[Birdshake]

Is this the kind of resetting circuit breaker you got? https://www.amazon.com/Tocas-Cover-Manu ... pons&psc=1

That's a manual reset breaker. You'll want an automatic one.

I bought this one from ebay It doesn't come with a boot so I picked one up locally.

[WinnieVan]

Birdshake nailed it -- what you want is a "self-resetting" circuit breaker, also know as a Type-I circuit breaker. Ebay looks like the cheapest option.

Here's one from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/RKURCK-Automatic ... ive&sr=1-8

If you're REALLY worried about quality, I'd go with a Bussmann unit:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PTBVL2/ref=dp_prsubs_3

And then you can buy some covers:
https://www.amazon.com/ZOOKOTO-2PCS-Cir ... r=1-3&th=1

Do you have an updated link for that thermo switch by any chance?

This is the one I used:
https://www.amazon.com/American-Volt-El ... r=8-1&th=1

I also just recently switched to PCM control of my eFan -- so I have some of these parts laying around, although my Thermo-switch is broken in that it is always grounded. It worked for about a year -- so I'm not sure on the quality of that part.

[WinnieVan]

Another benefit to the rock slider mod you did from uharries build is you both just Massively reinforced the van right where they fail in the frontal offset crash test. Its not often such a modification that has a 100% cool factor also has a huge safety improvment factor as well.

Id be fascinated to see a modified van go through this same test

https://youtu.be/8kuSghb7P7U

Sure would be interesting. On my install, I'd guess the welds would break and wouldn't add too much rigidity but if you somehow connected those to the subframe, I think that'd change the calculus a bit.

[tinworm]

Thats the frontal offset so more testing body and trasnfering force around subframe. Basically the van unibody is weak at the rocker, all except yours and uharries.

[SportsBoy]

Thanks a bunch guys! Didn't realize I had linked a manual reset one...

Do you have an updated link for that thermo switch by any chance?

This is the one I used:
https://www.amazon.com/American-Volt-El ... r=8-1&th=1

Boss thanks.

So, am I getting this right? This switch you used will only make the volvo fan use one speed, so either put an override switch in the cab to choose both speeds or live with one and choose whether you want high or low when wiring it up?
I'm guessing the bmw sensor I've seen in the how-to's like on ranger station is how you get the two speeds to go automatically.

Any thoughts on how worth it that is? Would be nice to have it auto, but it would be simple enough to flick it on high from the cab if more cooling is needed in those rare occasions.

Also, Winnie, it is super cool that you have computer control on your fan now! Was it worth the hassle, or not really?

[WinnieVan]

Also, Winnie, it is super cool that you have computer control on your fan now! Was it worth the hassle, or not really?

Yea I think it’s worth it, but Astrowill did me a solid and did the tuning for me, so I’m not sure it’d be worth it if you had to pay for the tune. I’ve been meaning to do a write up but I’ve been too busy enjoying the summer!!!

In other news, took the van on some nice trails this weekend!! Took a real rocky one out to a place called Gold Lake 4x4 campground but it was full.

Wife and I did some more driving around and found an awesome spot right on the feather river.



On the way home, I picked up an NP231 and proceeded to tear it apart:





Sucky part is, I stripped one of the screws on the input shaft seal retainer:






Lotsa locktite on these guys. The other three came out just fine.

Guess I’ll try some heat tomorrow to see if I can break it loose. then to Fastenal to order some new bolts.

I see why GM moved to the raised input shaft seal retainer in ‘96 for the blazer:

This is the ‘95 version for the 231c:


This is the ‘96 version for the 231c:


Wish I had bolts, not these stupid flat socket cap screws. For a 10.9 bolt, they are pretty freaking soft.


Anyone have some pro tips for how to extract this stubborn beeotch? I’m one bolt away from being able to reseal this transfer case and swap it into the van!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[SportsBoy]

I had luck with putting a latex glove in between the bit and the screw when I stripped the torx screw on the oil cooler adapter - could try that

[gavio]

I'm guessing the bmw sensor I've seen in the how-to's like on ranger station is how you get the two speeds to go automatically.

I copied that setup spelled out on the ranger station and what I've found is that the BMW sensor has an "OFF' temperature that is a wee bit too low, which means that while the fan comes on at a good temperature (I think it's 210 or some such, once everything cools to about 195 fish again, the fan still stays on unless it's cool enough out or I'm driving fast enough to get the radiator temperature to go lower than 195..... On the flip side, the Volvo fan has worked fine and it has never heated up enough to activate the high speed.....

So I'm gonna try the more conventional approach, which is to use an adjustable Hayden temp switch for low speed and see if I can get it set so it shuts off when the temps are back to normal, and then wire a manual switch for high speed.....

LOVE the idea of having it tied to the PCM, though......

[WinnieVan]

I had luck with putting a latex glove in between the bit and the screw when I stripped the torx screw on the oil cooler adapter - could try that

Yea I tried that... couldn't get it to grab with a breaker bar. I guess that's what I get for trying to tear it down around 2AM when I couldn't make any noise!!

This morning, I heated the screw up for with a propane torch for like 8 minutes, hammered in a T40 Torx bit and brought out my torque wrench... let's just say that socket head screw isn't my problem anymore!

Well she’s all apart now, need to go buy some new seals and a couple of those socket head screws but everything else inside is puuurrrffeect. This unit had 96k on it and there isn’t any signs of wear whatsoever that I can see. What was left of the fluid was still red on a towel and didn't smell burnt at all.



I’ll probably aim to install the TC this weekend!

[Safari Rig 2000]

Hello all! I'm posting as a reply because I can't find the new topic link it mentioned. Just joined today and trying to navigate this site. I have a 2000 safari and interested in the 4x4 conversion. I know JOR has a kit for it. And in all the reading I've done, most op for the np233c. So the couple current questions I have are: If the 233 is electric shift also, couldn't you just convert the factory transfer case? Is the 233 stronger? Also what would be the best donor to look for? When I first started looking I thought it had to be an older s10 with a manual shift t-case. But the more I read, people are using 233's out of vehicles as new as early to mid 2000 models. I'm fairly mechanically inclined but would like to get some opinions and go from there. I will complete my profile and post pics as I figure out this site.

[SportsBoy]

I'm guessing the bmw sensor I've seen in the how-to's like on ranger station is how you get the two speeds to go automatically.

I copied that setup spelled out on the ranger station and what I've found is that the BMW sensor has an "OFF' temperature that is a wee bit too low, which means that while the fan comes on at a good temperature (I think it's 210 or some such, once everything cools to about 195 fish again, the fan still stays on unless it's cool enough out or I'm driving fast enough to get the radiator temperature to go lower than 195..... On the flip side, the Volvo fan has worked fine and it has never heated up enough to activate the high speed.....

So I'm gonna try the more conventional approach, which is to use an adjustable Hayden temp switch for low speed and see if I can get it set so it shuts off when the temps are back to normal, and then wire a manual switch for high speed.....

LOVE the idea of having it tied to the PCM, though......

Interesting Gavio, I saw earlier Winnie didn't use the BMW switch because it wasn't right for a 195 tstat, but then I saw this and was wondering why the 210 on 195 off switch wouldn't work - that makes sense now. I'll look into the Hayden option as well I suppose.
From about page 16 or so of this thread:

That was the plan at first, I even grabbed a couple different BMW pigtails to do it that way.

Problem is the temps on those sensors don’t work well with the 195 thermostat. The higher temp dual switch is toggled for 195.8 ON. I think if you used it the fan would cycle a LOT.

I’m guessing a 210 on 195 off will work better. Or something in the 205 range.

Or you could use to 180 degree thermostat and the BMW switch.

https://therangerstation.com/tech_libra ... _fan.shtml

[SportsBoy]

Also, glad the TC is coming along!!

[WinnieVan]

FWIW.. there is a two temp switch for the Holden Vectra that has the right temps. I forget the part number; but it is in that thread somewhere.

It has large threads though, so you’d need to tap out the inline adapter or radiator to make it work. It’d be slick, but taps aren’t cheap and I don’t own them!

[SportsBoy]

Yeah, I remember seeing that you posted that.
However, I too am tap-less lol

I'm jealous of these other vehicles where the sensor just plugs right into the radiator, it makes me wonder if something simple could be done to make our existing temp sensor in the manifold work. But that's definitely above my level of knowledge