White Wench '02

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Re: White Wench '02

Postby MI_Ghost » October 10th 2017, 3:04am

I know we are all watching the money But,

This can't be beat
Half the price of a stock replacement.
2 row 1" Aluminum core
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2003-New-Radiat ... Sw7XZXhZCn
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Re: White Wench '02

Postby WoodButcher [OP] » October 11th 2017, 1:19am

Hope that arm gets better for you Leeann, we don't heal up like we used to...

That radiator you posted Ghost is the same to the one I have. I paid $130 or there about on fleabay a couple years ago for the '97. Nice price.
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Re: White Wench '02

Postby MI_Ghost » October 11th 2017, 2:32am

WoodButcher wrote:
That radiator you posted Ghost is the same to the one I have. I paid $130 or there about on fleabay a couple years ago for the '97. Nice price.

Don't tell me I screwed up and did something right. :o
Mine will be going in next week after a good acid flush of the cooling system to get rid of the remaining Dexslime.
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Re: White Wench '02

Postby WoodButcher [OP] » October 12th 2017, 3:04am

What exactly are you using for the flush? I'd be nervous using and acid so I'd be interested in precise quantity and duration of soak. I used a couple off the shelf remedies, first a product from Bars Leaks and then 2 cans of Prestone. I still have brownish green antifreeze now but it isn't terrible. I took some of the sludge from the cap before I did any flush and tried different cleaners to see what would cut it and found nothing that would break it down. Dawn, Clorox clean up, I have a commercial degreaser, TSP, and lastly one I had high hopes for Kaboom, all just about useless against it.

In other news I lifted the rear an inch today. I can't spare the cash for springs right now so to avoid the occasional rub I re-drilled the front perch mounts. The new hole is about 1 1/4" lower and 5/8" back raising the body and centering the wheel in the well. The tweaking begins...
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Re: White Wench '02

Postby MI_Ghost » October 13th 2017, 3:52am

WoodButcher wrote:What exactly are you using for the flush? I'd be nervous using and acid so I'd be interested in precise quantity and duration of soak. I used a couple off the shelf remedies, first a product from Bars Leaks and then 2 cans of Prestone. I still have brownish green antifreeze now but it isn't terrible. I took some of the sludge from the cap before I did any flush and tried different cleaners to see what would cut it and found nothing that would break it down. Dawn, Clorox clean up, I have a commercial degreaser, TSP, and lastly one I had high hopes for Kaboom, all just about useless against it.


The dime store novel.
GM TSB 99-06-02-012D
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c3 ... 1571065288

It basically boils down to
Oxalic Acid (DAP Wood Bleach) - Acid/Rust remover
Sodium Carbonate (Arm & Hammer Super Washing Soda) - Neutralizer

With all the mis-information out there it is easy to get confused about what is actually happening.
Dex-Cool is actually an acidic base coolant. When exposed to air over a long period it will cause the iron in the block to rust. The brown coolant is from rust buildup in the block.

The only way to clean the block and remove the rust build up is with an acid.
You then have to stop the corrosive action of the acid with the washing soda. Store shelf cleaners do not do this!

My van is an 01 with 214K on it. Even though it was a well maintained vehicle. I am still dealing with unknown condition parts. I am planning a full cooling system rebuild (radiator, heater core, heater control valve, water pump, and all hoses). A little more expensive doing it this way but leaves no questions.

Some very good info on the cooling system. Spend some time in the education section.
http://www.sancarlosradiator.com/VoltageDrop/flush.htm

And one last word. If you took sludge off the cap. It's Dead!
Replace it. They are not that expensive.
The stock gm cap is a known weak point which starts the whole Dex-slime cycle.
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Re: White Wench '02

Postby WoodButcher [OP] » October 14th 2017, 1:40pm

Very cool, thanks for the info and links.
I think my WW will be fine now through winter as is so this will be on the springtime do list. With my new to me old house I've got to prioritize. I have too many things that need doing and not enough time.
The heatercore was replaced before I got it and my rad is 3-4 years old but always run w/ fresh green. I would not be surprised to find the PO put stop leak in this but I did as good a flush as could be done with the store bought. I wonder when I run the acid will I find the intake gasket needs be replaced?,, Probably.
Another good reason to wait or spring.
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Re: White Wench '02

Postby WoodButcher [OP] » December 30th 2017, 5:21pm

I copied this from Markmitche's thread here fishing for info,

WoodButcher wrote:
sixsix wrote:Curious - what kinda' gremlins and on which one ?
Does the ammeter bounce w/ your blinkers on the 93' ?


No Mike, I had that little goodie in my '97 though.
The '93 my cluster lights come and go but my pressing issue is in my '02.
intermittent blower and turning the lo-med-high switch affects the temp gauge, fuel gauge and computer. I run an the Ultra Gauge hooked up to my OBD II port all the time and get some strange warnings.
speed- 118 MPH? :o
coolant temp, the warning is set at 212 f.
once in a while I'll get a message that says 303 f!!!
Lately I've been too busy to play and now it's too cold so come spring hopefully I'll fix these things.


I really need to break down and spend the two beans for a FSM.
I tried that link in Will's signature to download the service manual and failed, Im not good w/ software. I bought a disc from fleabay but that doesn't give the wiring and diagrams the FSM do.
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Re: White Wench '02

Postby AstroWill » December 30th 2017, 5:34pm

WoodButcher wrote:I really need to break down and spend the two beans for a FSM.
I tried that link in Will's signature to download the service manual and failed, Im not good w/ software. I bought a disc from fleabay but that doesn't give the wiring and diagrams the FSM do.

PM me if you want some assistance with it.

Edit: https://sites.google.com/site/astrosafa ... virtualbox

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Re: White Wench '02

Postby WimpTech » December 30th 2017, 6:46pm

NOOOOICE
WimpTech - Precision Guesswork... Questionable Results.

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Re: White Wench '02

Postby WoodButcher [OP] » December 31st 2017, 4:13am

I got it Will, thanks for the help. Don't know how or why but it works now.
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Re: White Wench '02

Postby AstroWill » December 31st 2017, 4:15am

WoodButcher wrote:I got it Will, thanks for the help. Don't know how or why but it works now.


AWESOME! :thumbup:

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Re: White Wench '02

Postby WoodButcher [OP] » February 13th 2018, 1:18am

I got the dreaded PO 200 today.
Just got finished reading the info from the techline so it seems I'll have some digging to do. I don't intend to run out and buy a new spider just yet. Anyone have advice or pointers for me on this new adventure? If the weather is good I'll get into it this weekend but I'm not looking forward to it.
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Re: White Wench '02

Postby Leeann_93 » February 13th 2018, 1:49am

I’d start with a big bottle of Techron and see if that helps. If nothing clears up, there’s probably something electrical wrong with the spider...
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Re: White Wench '02

Postby WoodButcher [OP] » February 13th 2018, 4:35am

Thanks Leeann, I was thinking of that but wasn't sure if I should run it. I changed the cap and rotor when I got to the job this AM and it did seem to help. On the way in I got a 305, misfire code, then the 200 after. I'll run Phil tomorrow and get a quart of Techron on the way home. I have a Napa store 1/10 of a mile from my house and they don't carry Techron... :shrug:

If needed can the injectors or poppets be replaced individually or would I be better off just to replace the whole spider in your opinion?
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Re: White Wench '02

Postby Leeann_93 » February 13th 2018, 4:39am

You can replace an individual injector, but it’s probably not worth it at this age and mileage.
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Re: White Wench '02

Postby WoodButcher [OP] » February 13th 2018, 4:46am

:thumbup:
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Re: White Wench '02

Postby AstroWill » February 13th 2018, 6:00am

Leeann_93 wrote:You can replace an individual injector, but it’s probably not worth it at this age and mileage.


x2, might as well go for the whole set while you are in there. Everything gets super brittle over time.

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Re: White Wench '02

Postby markmitch » February 13th 2018, 6:45am

My dad was a tractor trailer long distance driver and mechanic he told me years ago to clean the coolant system they used cascade dish detergent for a system such as our vans he recommended 1 cup of the powder then fill with water then drive it about 30 miles get on the highway if possible then flush it real good two or three times with water. drain and fill it as usual. I did that to mine due to rust in the engine and crud in the coolant system from both a bad radiator and from the rear heat being closed for a real long time. When you do this have the heat on and the rear heat on if you have rear heat. mine is nice and green now. I since replaced the radiator, water pump, hoses T stat and t stat housing.
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Re: White Wench '02

Postby Leeann_93 » February 13th 2018, 11:16pm

^ think you put this in the wrong place, Mark...
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Re: White Wench '02

Postby WoodButcher [OP] » February 14th 2018, 3:22am

Nope, right place just up the page, :thumbup:

MI_Ghost wrote:
WoodButcher wrote:What exactly are you using for the flush? I'd be nervous using and acid so I'd be interested in precise quantity and duration of soak. I used a couple off the shelf remedies, first a product from Bars Leaks and then 2 cans of Prestone. I still have brownish green antifreeze now but it isn't terrible. I took some of the sludge from the cap before I did any flush and tried different cleaners to see what would cut it and found nothing that would break it down. Dawn, Clorox clean up, I have a commercial degreaser, TSP, and lastly one I had high hopes for Kaboom, all just about useless against it.


The dime store novel.
GM TSB 99-06-02-012D
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c3 ... 1571065288

It basically boils down to
Oxalic Acid (DAP Wood Bleach) - Acid/Rust remover
Sodium Carbonate (Arm & Hammer Super Washing Soda) - Neutralizer

With all the mis-information out there it is easy to get confused about what is actually happening.
Dex-Cool is actually an acidic base coolant. When exposed to air over a long period it will cause the iron in the block to rust. The brown coolant is from rust buildup in the block.

The only way to clean the block and remove the rust build up is with an acid.
You then have to stop the corrosive action of the acid with the washing soda. Store shelf cleaners do not do this!

My van is an 01 with 214K on it. Even though it was a well maintained vehicle. I am still dealing with unknown condition parts. I am planning a full cooling system rebuild (radiator, heater core, heater control valve, water pump, and all hoses). A little more expensive doing it this way but leaves no questions.

Some very good info on the cooling system. Spend some time in the education section.
http://www.sancarlosradiator.com/VoltageDrop/flush.htm

And one last word. If you took sludge off the cap. It's Dead!
Replace it. They are not that expensive.
The stock gm cap is a known weak point which starts the whole Dex-slime cycle.
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Firing on 4 Cylinders (L6)
Firing on 4 Cylinders (L6)
Years of Membership: WoodButcher has been a member for 9 full yearsWoodButcher has been a member for 9 full yearsWoodButcher has been a member for 9 full yearsWoodButcher has been a member for 9 full yearsWoodButcher has been a member for 9 full yearsWoodButcher has been a member for 9 full yearsWoodButcher has been a member for 9 full yearsWoodButcher has been a member for 9 full yearsWoodButcher has been a member for 9 full years
Posts: 5466
Topics: 30
Images: 502
Joined: October 2010
Location: Woodbury CT
Gender: Male
Alias (AKA): Bruce
Van Model Year: 1993
Van Make/Model: GMC Safari
Extra Info: 5.7L RWD

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