Matt's 95 Astro

[Mmusicman]

Since your's is a 95 it might be different?
Sorry I don't know... my photo was from my 2000.
Hopefully someone else will chime in.
Try asking LeeAnn?

Also, my filter is not close to the exhaust like yours is...

[Big_kid]

The adapter bolts in. I had one from the G20 van, I don't remember if the 4.3 uses the same one or not. I also don't remember if the adapter separates from the cooler lines or not. I DO remember I needed to use the bolts from the G20 block. It did not have the cooler, the bolts were shorter.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ses- ... /chevrolet

[Leeann_93]

⅜" Allen for the adapter. Remove it with the adapter bolted to the block (it can be really tight, so having the adapter securely bolted to the block helps), then use a T-40 to remove both bolts for the adapter. Once that's off, the ⅜" Allen will reinstall the filter mount to the block.

[M_a_t_t]

⅜" Allen for the adapter. Remove it with the adapter bolted to the block (it can be really tight, so having the adapter securely bolted to the block helps), then use a T-40 to remove both bolts for the adapter. Once that's off, the ⅜" Allen will reinstall the filter mount to the block.

Thank you,

How accurate is that for the 5.7? I know it takes a larger oil filter and the adapter bolts are allen heads.

I am so close I can taste it, all that is left is oil cooler mess, hang exhaust, wire distributor and electric choke in. Does anyone know how many amps run to the distributor? I am thinking about running the dist power feed to a toggle switch as an antitheft. Key on hit toggle and start, to turn it off hit toggle again and key off. Good idea or bad? Might be better to use a relay anyway.

[Leeann_93]

‘Fraid I have no idea about the 5.7. I did change the oil on one once for a friend, but nothing deeper than that.

[Mmusicman]

Key on hit toggle and start, to turn it off hit toggle again and key off. Good idea or bad?

I like it! Get a final count-down check-list going with NASA Houston Control.. all systems go for launch! lol

If I had to guess.. I'd say a few amps of draw on the distro and coil (not sure what you are running). Relay is probably not necessary unless your toggle is tiny.

As far as your oil cooler adapter.. I think it is different than ours. You may have to search the internet forums for the vehicle that the engine came out of.

[M_a_t_t]

Its an hei distributor. Should be pretty much same as yours.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum- ... KcQAvD_BwE

[AstroWill]

⅜" Allen for the adapter. Remove it with the adapter bolted to the block (it can be really tight, so having the adapter securely bolted to the block helps), then use a T-40 to remove both bolts for the adapter. Once that's off, the ⅜" Allen will reinstall the filter mount to the block.

Thank you,

How accurate is that for the 5.7? I know it takes a larger oil filter and the adapter bolts are allen heads.

I am so close I can taste it, all that is left is oil cooler mess, hang exhaust, wire distributor and electric choke in. Does anyone know how many amps run to the distributor? I am thinking about running the dist power feed to a toggle switch as an antitheft. Key on hit toggle and start, to turn it off hit toggle again and key off. Good idea or bad? Might be better to use a relay anyway.

The filter thread adapter is the same, filters are bigger but use the same threads.

[M_a_t_t]

I can't get it to start. It seems like no spark, but I tried an inline tester and it shows its getting spark. The whole ignition system is new. Plugs, wires, coil, cap, the whole distributor. I've double checked for voltage at the distributor and its getting juice. I can hear it sparking in the cap and I can smell fuel after cranking for a bit, but it doesn't do anything. Just turn over. Starting fluid doesn't do anything either

Any suggestions?

[Mmusicman]

Any suggestions?

If it's getting spark and fuel.. then it "should" run.
The only other issue I can think of is spark "timing".
(assuming internal engine "valve timing" is correct too)

[M_a_t_t]

shouldn't it sputter or something? It couldn't be that far off I would think. I tried using the timing light while cranking, but it turns way to slow . Paper in the spark plug hole for compression stroke?

Double checked my dist. timing and its good. Checked fuel pressure and nothing... need to prime pump I guess

[Mmusicman]

shouldn't it sputter or something? It couldn't be that far off I would think...

It couldn't?? It might not sputter at all if you've got it completely wrong.

I tried using the timing light while cranking, but it turns way to slow

I've never heard of that. If it's cranking "too slow".. get a better fully charged battery.
Timing will flash (while cranking) if it's working and making a spark.

Checked fuel pressure and nothing... need to prime pump I guess

You need to fix each problem! If you have no fuel, FIX IT!
If you're not getting a flash from your timing light.. something is wrong here too.

One good way to prime a pump with issues is to disconnect from carb and start cranking.
Once you see fuel, you should be good to go.

As far as timing... don't "assume" anything. If it's way off.. it won't run.
Maybe you have it 180 wrong? Regardless, you need to get timing light firing.

[M_a_t_t]

shouldn't it sputter or something? It couldn't be that far off I would think...

It couldn't?? It might not sputter at all if you've got it completely wrong.
I pulled the valve cover and verified already. Its good.

I tried using the timing light while cranking, but it turns way to slow

I've never heard of that. If it's cranking "too slow".. get a better fully charged battery.
I had jumper cables on my moms car so...
Timing will flash (while cranking) if it's working and making a spark.
Its flashing, but I had the spark wire clip backwards so I think that is why it wasn't lining up right

Checked fuel pressure and nothing... need to prime pump I guess

You need to fix each problem! If you have no fuel, FIX IT!
If you're not getting a flash from your timing light.. something is wrong here too.
Preaching to the choir here.
One good way to prime a pump with issues is to disconnect from carb and start cranking.
Once you see fuel, you should be good to go.
I pulled the line off the carb, which was bone dry, and poured some gas down the line. I then looked under the van and it was leaking. No leak before so the pump wasn't pulling fuel into the line at all.

As far as timing... don't "assume" anything. If it's way off.. it won't run.
Maybe you have it 180 wrong? Regardless, you need to get timing light firing.

Another thing I did was wire the distributor and the choke together, fixed that. I wired the inline pump to the old fuel pump wiring so it only runs for 2 seconds when the key is turned on. Should I rewire so it is on the whole time the key is on, or should that be enough?

Thanks,
Matt

[Mmusicman]

I wired mine to the same ignition source that feeds the distributor.
Pump gets power when the distributor gets power.
Pump always needs to stay running with ignition on
(particularly at first crank so it can fill the fuel bowls in the carb).

[M_a_t_t]

I wired mine to the same ignition source that feeds the distributor.
Pump gets power when the distributor gets power.
Pump always needs to stay running with ignition on
(particularly at first crank so it can fill the fuel bowls in the carb).

Are you still using the relay or just direct wire to the pump?

[Mmusicman]

I was lazy.. wired direct to pump (no relay). But I did use factory wiring.
It was a heavy gauge wire in the harness.. can t remember if it was meant for the pump, or for the ignition. I think ignition. Regardless, both my ignition and pump are sharing the same ignition wire.
This may not be advisable, but it has worked for me for several years.
Maybe it comes from a relay.. I never checked.. lol
Sorry I'm not better help on this.

[M_a_t_t]

It starts. After some troubleshooting it starts !! Still some problems like, the choke is stuck and I need to plug the valve cover holes, cyl 1 spark plug wire is too short, so I had to put my spark tester on to get enough slack to time the distributor , and the pump isn't strong enough to suck gas through the main feed line from the old pump. It's running on a gas can for now.

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipP ... 1mTUE2bkJn

Original problem of not doing anything was my timing of the distributor. My double check wasn't good enough. I didn't confirm TDC, just watched the valves and guessed at where it should be. The movement of the distributor wasn't enough to correct for that error so I moved all the plug wires over 1 position and got it too fire.

Then there was too much pressure so i bought a regulator and set that correctly. I got it to fire for about 30 sec to a minute and then it wouldn't restart. I changed out the spark plugs in hopes that we had set everything else right.


My dad who had been trying to help troubleshoot over text was a big help. He pointed out the choke, and it was completely stuck. So I moved it to the open position and turned the idle screw up and it started (as you probably watched) It warmed up really quickly. Eventually it started to stutter a little and it started to really smoke up the inside of the van even with all 3 doors open so I turned it off. I have a feeling the choke is responsible for the stutter.

[M_a_t_t]

I was able to upload that first video to Youtube:

https://youtu.be/Za-5rmrjdr0



I also took it for a drive, got a video of me testing brakes and steering in the driveway as well. Its very low resolution, but the audio is very descriptive

https://youtu.be/zug7XQe9lag



How do you embed Youtube videos?

Mod edit: addded tags to youtube links

[Big_kid]

To embed a YouTube video, click on the "youtube" box above where you type out the post. Paste your link in between the open and close tags, then delete the part before the numbers and letters at the end of the link. I've also seen links where the last "/" is an "=" instead. Edit those the same way.

Code: Select all

 https://youtu.be/Za-5rmrjdr0

would be entered

 [youtube]Za-5rmrjdr0[/youtube]




[Mmusicman]

..it started to really smoke up the inside of the van even with all 3 doors open so I turned it off. I have a feeling the choke is responsible for the stutter.

Did you use the Hedman 68600 headers?
The "black coating" burns off them on first use.
Mine smoked like crazy! I thought something was on fire.
I've never had other headers ever do that!

But yes.. the choke will in fact choke your engine with too much fuel causing it to sputter and flood.. and it will black smoke out the exhaust.

Do not treat a carbureted engine the same as fuel-injected. If you flood the engine.. the only solution to starting it is to HOLD DOWN the throttle to full throttle (not pumping it) while cranking, allowing a lot of air into the engine (which will mix with the excessive fuel). Usually under these conditions, it will sputter to a start and clear up with more open throttle. Spark plugs wet with too much fuel may not fire up... but letting them sit a few minutes usually helps. Or like I said.. wide open throttle while cranking. Never pump throttle if already flooded.

Yes.. fuel pressure from tank must be regulated down to about 6psi for carb use.
Too much pressure will flood the fuel bowls.

Nice "driving video"... but does it only go backwards? lol